naturally...I will end up defiling them as well.


Defile as in...."completley change" not "diddle"

Yeah, whatever. We all know your secret now. Don't try to hide it.
It would be pretty cool if the guns came out by the end of July, wouldn't it? Of course, August is good too. I just need something to mod. I'm going insane messing with my NF all day. =/

You want something to mod??

Here

1) Tech Target gun

2) pick something from here:
http://www.realistictoyguns.com

3)put the two together

Seriously, we should have a contest for the TT and NF, involving the craziest thing you can do with the shell, or the coolest thing you can put it in. My vote would definately be for putting the NF in a Namco GunCon shell. I loveses that gun.

Wow. Very nice looking guns. I hope they're remakes of GOOD guns, if they are just putting new shells on old internals. Personally, I didn't think the DX5000 was that good, maybe this new one is an improved remake of it? Tech Target and Night sight are great guns. I would really hate to see the engineers at Nerf put a ton of restricters, small air chambers, and bent hoses in the guns to make them "safe".... I'd scrap half my nerf projects if these were any good. If they are as good as the DX, Xbow, and LnL, promote the awesome job the new designers are doing!! Pimp these guns to everyone you know! New Xbow and LnL!

But the good news is, if these guns ARE awesome and cheap, and more people start nerfing, I will have more time to make better stuff for nerf wars, such as mission items and bombs to defuse and stuff.

Hey, anyone play nerf wars like that? I saw some lasertag groups that did. They would have "terrorists" and "paramilitary". The terrorists had an electronic "bomb" or super weapon prop, with a timer and some wires to cut to deactivate it. The paramilitary group started somewhere and set up a timed prop that would activate a strobe light or rotating light and play a clip of a black hawk landing. They'd set the thing to X number of minutes and when the timer ran out, the "dropship" would be there to pick them up. Cool idea for wars. They had some other kewl stuff too. Think I'll start a topic on props/devices used in nerf wars....

I won't wanna paint 'em!

I do. And hack em up good with the Dremel. They won't be recognizable when I'm done!

On another note: Talio, do we know the actual dimensions of the guns? It's kinda hard to judge the actual size of these weapons, unless there was a nitefinder or something in the pictures. I am just worried that the scout might be even smaller than the nitefinder.

My reasoning was this: When all those guns are connected together, Hasbro still wants a 7-yr-old to be able to shoot it. That would be pretty hard if the guns were as big as they appear in the pics. Maybe I am wrong, and the Titan will be a massive gun, but Hasbro seems to cater more to the younger players.

Also, the "foot pump" on the Titan might be marketed as such just because little 7-yr-olds would have to use their feet to pump it. As long as the pump isn't that long, I don't think I would have trouble just holding the stock in one hand and pumping it. But then again, the longer the pump is, the less times you have to pump it, the higher the ROF.

~Vintage

Here's why I'm not too worried:
http://www.realistic..._30in_m16_3.jpg
10 year old with a 30 inch toy gun. It's been done before, maybe the nerf engineers will figure out that 10 year olds can handle bigger guns.

Oh, and with all this work, I didn't lose a SINGLE screw! How the hell can THIRST lose all his screws??? In the pieces he cut off, there's SIX SCREWS he could have used as replacements! He lost those too?? Maybe he ate them.

TIP: When taking a part guns, get a dixie cup or mug, or hat or SOMETHING to keep screws in. I like to have a small cup for screws and a large one for other parts. That way, nothing gets lost. It's all in a cup. Like pizza.

A moc silencer wouldnt work for yours anyways. Your not doing a brass or PETG barrel mod, so you dont need anything to support it, thats why the moc silencers are their. I am wondering what your going to do with the stock barrel though, dont you think itll look kinda funky being all "nipple" like sticking out the front?

I don't know. I didn't think you even needed that goofy thing. I'll go check.

MINUTES LATER:





Okay you tell me, does that look kinda funky? You really don't need that flanged piece at the end so I just left it off completely. I can still sand down the extra parts on that barrel. I'm open to suggestions...

You know, if you want, I could write STFU on it for you

Hahaha, I'm sorry. The Nerf STFU 6000 cracks me up every time I see it

Okay, back to the hardcore stuff:



Unfortunately, the pics turned out either too dark or too bright!

Anyway, the LED is nested snugly in that little white section of a Bic pen. I took out the board and wired the LED straight to the wires. I don't believe in resistors since the current draw is minimal and the voltage is under/at 3v. I cut just enough of a hole in the bondo jelly for the led to peek out. Sorry the pic didn't turn out. Too much flash.

The bondo inside the shell in the pic is to hold the air chamber in place better, since I had to sand off a peg that secured it to the shell. I'm sure I'll eventually find a more secure way to hold it in, but for now, we're doing the OUTSIDE of the gun!

Oh, here's what you're looking for:
http://www.bondo-onl...asp?itemNbr=496

Awesome stuff.

So the wiring is all tested, nested, and ready to go!

Here's the primer!



It's a cute little gun, and it's not getting a "mock silencer". The whole ideas is to make the most minimalistic NF ever, and adding to it would defeat the purpose of subtracting from the gun in the first place.

Tomorrow: GUNMETAL! WHO ELSE LOVES IT AS MUCH AS I DO???

shortshit, did you even read my post? I dont' think I could have explained it any simpler. YOU don't care about how a gun looks. Good for you, I'm not going to care if you paint yours or not. I don't care about mediocre mods, but I don't think people should get so much praise for following someone else's tutorials when they're just step for step copying someone else's ideas, and skipping anything that someone can't hold their hand and walk them through.

If you arent' really reading my posts, maybe the bold will get your attention. Go back and read my post all the way through! When there is no need to mod a gun to 100 feet, and most guns have been modded about the same, people work on the aesthetics of the guns. People here can follow enough directions to mod the internals of a gun as well as the next guy, so it's time to start working on points for style. If you feel like playing with someting that looks like it was stolen from Home Depot's plumbing department, you go right ahead. But from that day on, I will refer to you as "That fat little plumber, Mario".

And as for bungee cords and rubber bands, yes, I know what they're for. I consider them gun internals, and as such, should go on the inside of the gun . It's ugly. I don't care if it adds 20 feet to your shots. Tying a squirrel on your gun might improve firing accuracy, but it's still just as ugly. Unless you like squirrels. Everyone here is content with keeping them on the outside, they haven't even considered moving them into the gun housings. When you're not playing on a football field, super range doesn't matter. I play mostly urban or indoor games and 15-30 feet is more than enough when you have the skills to use a gun and dodge darts at those ranges. Hell, I can even use a Supermaxx 350 stock effectively at those ranges.

Form Versus Function is an age old debate in the art and design world. This is just another example of it. Why settle for one or the other when you can have both?



You know what? Fuck it. I'll just make a gun you can be happy with:



There. If I told you it got better ranges than an Xbow would you carry that to a war? I sure as hell wouldn't.

Here's something I need to clear up, I'll put it into an easier to understand analogy instead of trying to explain why I hate electrical tape so much:

I come from an engineering university. In the dorms, EVERYONE modded their computers. EVERYONE put bigger hard drives in by themselves, everyone added more memory themselves, everyone overclocked the processors themselves.

So say a freshman comes to the dorms, reads some tutorials online and mods his computer. He then proceeds to brag about it and show off how awesome he is. At home, yeah maybe gramma couldn't do that, or the neighbors, but guess what? It's been done here before. By everyone else. We've seen it and heard it 100 times.

Now say that freshman modded his computer and maxxed it out, but put the whole thing in a 1985 Kenner Barbie convertible, with working headlights and tail lights. Now that takes some creativity and originality! Nobody gives a damn if you can follow a tutorial with pictures and copy of someone elses work. Bragging rights are earned by being original and creative or hardworking at the university. You don't earn them by showing up at a lan party with an ugly box.

So I look at the nerf websites, and the first thing I see are how to tutorials with step-by-step pics on how to add various barrels and whatnot. Okay, fine. But then I get to the forums and I see people all excited that they just made a gun with a petg barrel, and improved airflow like the tutorial said, and painted it like someone else did, but since there's not tutorial on how to make the gun look better, they leave it looking sloppy.

Should I be impressed that this person can follow directions? Definately not. Should I be impressed with something original like Groove's Buddha gun, or Pin up Xbow? Hell yeah. The Buddha gun was such a simple idea, but it was executed just right. Not like "look! it's a pic of the Terminator, cuz I terminate" or something lame. Dan Wask's General Bitch was another good example of simple deisgn, but high in the originality department. The General Lee was a cool ass Charger, and applying the paint and details to a large enough nerf gun was perfect.

In fact, so far, every TT and NF in that paintjob contest has been creative. Yeah some of them didn't look the greatest, but at least people are trying.

So for me, seeing rubber bands or electrical tape on the outside of a gun is like a freshman building the best computer, but holding the stock case together with rubber bands and electrical tape instead of screws. There's 100 better ways to go about it. But it seems here like the opposite is true. Rubber bands and electrical tape are the norm, and there's maybe 6 or 7 creative people here. And even less contributing to tutorials or new WORKING designs.

Maybe I am asking too much. Maybe there really is such a huge gap in skill levels. But at least I'm in a position to narrow that gap and teach you all some tricks.

The other thing is, in the games I play, guns that shoot 100+ feet are not allowed. Stefans are also not allowed. We play on campus or in city limits in public areas, and having anything reomotely dangerous attracts attention from campus or local police. We've come close to getting shut down because of over powered guns and custom darts with hard tips. . Plus, 80% of the time we play indoors, so anything over 40 feet is overkill. When your target is 15 feet away, a gun that shoots 20 feet is just as effective as a gun that shoots 40 feet. Most of us know how to make them shoot farther, but we dont' bother since there's no real point or advantage to it indoors.

So when everyone basically has a gun that fires about the same range, what do you to? You turn to case mods and custom shells for guns. Make sense?

And now back on topic!

Okay so say you're working with the bondo fiberglass jelly, and the first time you mix a bit, it's close to hardening right, but not quite. Then you mix a little bit again, and it's still a bit on the soft side. Then the third time you get the mix JUST RIGHT, it heats up, cures fast, and ends up being perfect. KEEP A SMALL PIECE OF THAT MIX!!! Since the stuff is almost impossible to mix properly by weight or measurement, the only way to get it right is knowing the color it turns when it's optimal. If you keep that swatch of the mix that worked just right, you'll know how close you are to it next time! I mixed the stuff about 12 times and finally got a near perfect mix, so I'm keepin the swatch from that batch.

I decided not to put a "mock silencer" on this gun. They're kinda dumb. And I prefer the orange barrel for saftey. I'm keeping the original barrel intact, it sticks out like 2 inches, but it still looks good. I used Gorilla Glue to glue the barrel to the air flow restrictor to the air chamber so it won't come out. I also put a ton of bondo jelly inside the gun to hold the air chamber in place, since I removed the peg for screwing the air chamber to the gun shell. I'll probably drill a hole and screw the air chamber to the bondo jelly for extra hold.

More pics to come tonight! I gotta pull an all nighter to get some other props finished!

Next:
THE LED ASSEMBLY

We're going out to war. A nerf war. I'd prefer a gun that has "function over form."

It's true that the military's heavy artillery is ugly as sin, and works effectively, but this is the whole point I'm trying to make. Why are you arguing over which is better? There is no right answer. I'm trying to show you people how you can have BOTH.

Have you seen how much of an aftershock "Form vs Function" has had across multiple topics on multiple forums? There is obviously is some demand for better looking guns. The forums arent' just "hey! Let's talk about performance and parts!"

You're all offering some valid points and I'm glad this whole whole process hasn't completely degraded into one big counter-productive pissing contest.

CXWQ, if you're going to go through that much trouble to dig up old posts and dirt on me, you should have seen that I don't bash people, and I don't bash nerf. All my comments have started out as suggestive improvements or criticism, and some people instantly see it as a direct attack on them and a chance to flame someone and look l33t in front of their friends.


Furthermore, am I really threating your way of life that much? Why am I here? I'm here to show people that there's better ways cosmetically to go about case modding a gun, and share advanced electronic designs once I complete them. Apparently, I come from a completely different world of nerf gamers. Mine is full of prop makers, kit builders, engineers, programmers and mechanics, all with a desire to find a safe legal gun game they can play in the city or on university campus. There is nerf after high school!

It's not like I'm some 13 year old kid who comes in and posts "U SUCK! UR GUN IS DUMB!" every chance I get. If I dont' like it, I'll tell you I don't like it, but the DIFFERENCE is that not only will I tell you what I would change if it were me, but I give the steps to make it look like it was done professionally and offer help to anyone who wants it. How many of you have IMed me on AIM for comments or questions already? I get questions DAILY from people. I am happy to contribute and people appreciate it.

The other point you all seem to be missing is one I've stated several times now, and again with the computer analogy. When you play with people who have also done all they can internally to a gun, and the ranges are getting comparitavely close, people start working on the aesthetics. When you've done all you can internally, and the 20 people you game with have done the same thing, people natrually are going to turn to case mods. When everyone goes to a war with a Tech Target, all modded internally as much as possible, people are going to want theirs to stand out. At least they do here. Hey, maybe middle and high school aren't as competitive as college and the thereafter. Maybe that's what I'm missing here. Consider this "Nerf Cram School" then

And THIRST, I've said a million times, I'm sure any gun you make will have much better range than any internal mods I can do. I don't hate anyone here, and I take ALL criticism lightly. I'm twice as old as some of you so it's not going to bother me a bit if you decide to call me names. The list of things you lose points for in the NHQ contest was meant to be funny, not serious. You said yourelf it's all in fun. I still don't really care who wins the contest, I just painted some guns up to try to inspire people to paint their guns with a bit more than than a solid color. Heck, I even told you how I did it and what tools I used! I still can't believe you spent that much time on a "Katachi" gun. Hella funny. The other forum I post in is 419Eater.com . It's for another hobby of mine, e-mailing Nigerian scam artists and wasting their time thinking they can scam $30,000 or more off of you. One of the fun things to do is to waste their time and money by requesting pics of them holding silly signs and e-mailing them to you. These are reffered to in the 419 community as "trophies" and are prouldly displayed as how far the scammer will go to pacify you. It's good practice writing/acting, and putting my photoshop skills to use.

THIRST, thank you for the trophies. With my name on it even! I have one of them as my desktop wallpaper and I'll be printing them out soon.


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Now, I'd start another post for being back "on topic" but apparently, it's bad forum ettiquitte to make muliple posts in a row in your own topic. Hell if I know. I ususally stay out of these things...


It's been about 12 hours since the last coat of primer, so I'll be slapping some paint on in a bit. Plenty of pics then.

I never said I used Bondo to seal up the shells. Go back and take a look at the pics! There's a seam! Not a very good one, mind you, but the concept is there. Yes, I can take the gun apart again.

A 2 barrel "attachment" is coming. I'm not intrested in attaching or modding the gun to take it. I'm sure it works for you, but the whole reason I wanted to do it was to show one of the fine uses for Bondo Jelly . You're gonna love it.

Back later with update pics!

Very well done, Katachi.

I'm actually on vacation right now... (complimentary hotel computer) and I just picked up some Bondo. I'll be back in a few days and I'll get back to work on mine.

There you are! I was starting to get worried cuz I hadn't heard from you in a while!

There will be plenty of suprises for you when you get back. The painjobcontest ends tonight!

Here's some new pics. The paint's about 10 years old, and I hit the bottom of the can so it comes out in big drops now, instead of an even spray.

Who knows... Anyways Katachi, I think he meant double barrel a single barreled gun. Not double barrel a double barreled gun... But eh, it looks nice nonetheless. Glad you and Thirst worked things out.

~ompa

Oh yeah, everythings cool with all but a few people now, I get IMs from people a lot .

I know it was originally supposed to be 2 barrels for one gun, but I picked up that gun today for 3 bucks and figured, if I'm gonna make a 2 barrel attachment, I might as well make something people can't flame me for not mechanically functioning properly for. I don't know the best way to put 2 barrels on a NF. 2 cpvc microdart adapters for a SSII I can do. With style What do you think of putting the Trigun cylinder on it somewhere? Any other suggestions?

NSF: yeah I learned not to do that. I use LJ more than I post in forums so I figured separate posts for separate thoughts would be appropriate.

Hm as for that cylinder... I don't know, I kinda like the original pump that came with it, and I'm sure you could make it look quite good.

Psst, by the way Katachi, unless you shove those barrels down the stock barrels alot farther, you're going to have some serious problems firing stefans.

~ompa

oh great

Wait, I didn't think you could use stefans with cpvc? I take a round file and carefully sand out enough to fit stock darts. Then I go over that with higher grit sandpaper. All my adapters were for stock darts, since any modded darts aren't allowed at the campus games in WI. Small price to pay for being able to play weekly, I guess.

No, I mean there's so much room behind the dart in the barrel that almost no air is going to get to the dart in a compressed enough state to make it go anywhere (Hope that made sense). At least that's the experiances I've had. Basically, it'll get more range with the less distance between the plunger tube and the dart. And my stefans fit in CPVC if I shove them in. I need alot of force to shove them in there, but you get a very satisfying pop.

~ompa

dammit, you're right. usually when I make adapters, I make them just a little bit longer than the dart, and jam them in the gun about an inch. Yeah it's not as awesome as some of you can do, but for indoor games, it works.

This was supposed to be a barrel replacement for the NF, similar to THIRST'S, but then I started looking at the Vash gun parts and molds I had laying around and thought it would be cooler to make the attachment look like the end of Vash's gun. But then I picked up that Sharpshooter at Goodwill for a few bucks and figured, hell, I'll just make an adapter for it and send him the whole thing . Ah well, I'll make it anyway, you can see what it looks like and yell at me when it doesn't fire I have a Dremel. I can fix it.

Hunter: It's not really worth it to get rid of the knobs. If you sand level with the rest of the gun, you're cutting into the notches that hold some important parts, and removing a peg that holds the air chamber to the shell. I put 3 coats of bondo on those holes and still sanded through or paper thin. If you want something to experiment with bondo jelly on, maybe try just filling in the knobs and sanding them smooth, instead of the "nerf" and notches.

Screw it. I'm going back to two barrels. I'm fresh out of Nite Finders, but I have a Tech target here. hell of a mod when it's done. Putting the microdart attachment on the SSII was dumb as hell and twice as ugly. If I'm gonna do this, I'm going all out and making it work halfway decent too.

Loose the attitude. I'm getting tired of the 'You don't appreciate a good looking gun so therefore you're absoluteley horrid savages' routine.

That's excessively inaccurate and you know it. Or maybe not, since the "form vs function" battle raged on across several boards and several theads. I never said looks were more important than how a gun fires. It took me a while to understand that some of you are willing to take something ugly as sin into battle if it means overall winning. We've all discussed this enough, and things have been worked out with everyone. Unless people are still going to be upset when someone tells them their gun is ugly and offers ways to fix it if you're intrested. It's up to you do decide what to do with constructive criticism. If people here can't handle it, I promise I'll lighten up on them.

That's strange. Really, I just came in to check my e-mail and put the cat back in.

Okay, here:

You want more results from me and less talk, you got it.

There is a huge age/experience gap between myself and most of the members of your forum. If they don't want to do case mods, fine. They'll understand my postition once they get to hs or college.

I'm glad some of you have been inspired to do body/case mods. If I piss everyone but a few of you off, I can be happy with that. Thirst motivated me to make a few guns, and I motivated him to paint a bit more. We're all going to come out ahead here. Trust me.

Now really, I got resin curing right now and I gotta get back outside! Pics to come!

Look! I learned not to double post!

It occured to me that you might think I was making an insulting gun for THIRST. I"m not. I promised him I'd make a 2 barrel attachment, and it got me thinking so much, the project just kind of mushroomed from there... Check this out:

I went over to Goodwill and picked up the gun for 2 bucks. On a saturday! How rare! Got that, and a wildfire that needs a bit of work, and another gun I intend to use for parts, for a total of 8 bucks.

The microdart attachment for this gun still needs some sanding on the sides. The rubber bands are holding the thing together until the gorilla glue dries. The I beam type piece in the center is a piece of resin I quick cast and shaped with the dremel. Then it's... well, I'll show you when it's done. Think "Trigun" The cylinder sitting next to the gun is a resin shell I got from a mold I pulled off the Posiedon Vash gun. I'm thinking it would look nice where that green barrel selector was. Any thoughts? Suggestions? Similar projects?

ANOTHER UPDATE: now I"m going to get posts saying it's too long...

Okay, look. I'm not trying to make performance people look bad. I'm sorry if I have, and I'm sorry everyone's so upset over it. Internals are more important than a gun's looks, but take a look at any nerf website. They are lacking in any kinds of body mods or case mods. I'm offering something new. I never intended this to be a "form vs function" debate, you know that. I do what I do and I'm happy to teach other people. Am I really that much of a threat to your way of life? Some people here are more than willing to learn some new tricks.

Maybe it isn't an age/exerience gap that's keeping most of you from understanding me. I don't know what it is, but I've learned that not everyone cares how their gun looks, although there are a lot of people who are eager to learn.

I've been trying to read back and see if this was already covered, but couldn't find it. Are you going to tip the end orange? Because you say you play on campus right? Over here, my campus police are always patrolling everywhere, they would know instantly if we had anything that remotely looked like a gun in our hands.

I have to say, it is turning out to be looking sweet.

Take a look at the pics of the gun while it's just grey primer. The whole barrel is orange and Im leaving it that way. Yeah it looks silly having an orange nub sticking out a couple inches, but it's my super secret "orangonium nerve gas" dispenser attachment.

Sorry, Katachi, but I just see anything so special about your case so far. All I can see that you did was cover up the gaping hole in the front (which could have been used for something else, e.g., a maglite or ammo holders) and the ridges on the back of the handle (which I liked, but to each his own I guess). The paintjob doesn't look too special either. I for one, don't appreciate solid color paintjobs, but if you're planning on adding more colors it could look nice.

Yes, I agree with Seirus and Volt. I don't think realistic guns should be used in nerf wars either. It would be way too easy for someone to get in trouble with anything resembling a realistic gun. You'll also notice that every gun I've painted still has the orange tip. This project was just to show what could be done with the NF if you were to strip it down, fill in the holes, and paint it a realistic gun color.









First off, I was wrong. It's not really the Nite Finder case mod done right. Close, but not perfect. The paint was old and sprayed in big uneven drops. Plus, my lighting wasn't that great, and sanded bondo absorbs light, so you really can't see where you need to sand edges until you get the primer on. Overall, I'd give it 8/10 for being the most stripped down NF project.

And I honestly don't like it. I think it's too smooth and minimal, and it's just lacking so much detail. But as I said, my heart wasn't yearning to make the gun of my dreams. I already have that. It's my weathered metal NF blaster . I know some people tried "the most stripped down NF" projects, and several others had talked about doing it or wanting to see what it looked like. So there you have it. There's room to improve if you like the design. If you want to get rid of the LED all together, you could round off that trigger guard to eliminate even more of the shell.

HERE'S WHAT I DID:

Removed the "Nerf" knobs
Removed the light housing
Rounded off the underside of the trigger guard
Removed the "metallic" part on the barrel
Removed the orange barrel tip
Removed the air restrictors

Filled in the back of the grip
Filled in the holes where the knobs were
Filled in any remaining holes

Rewired a 10000mcd white LED to the switch
Made a fitting for the LED
Added bondo to the inside to hold the air chamber more snug

Primer and one solid color paint

FEATURES:
The LED is bright!

I can get an AVERAGE of about 40 feet level with stock darts. Nothing impressive for all of you, but it's good for my games.

The shell is NOT sealed with bondo. I filled the holes in the shell halves and sanded it down to make a seam. You can see it in the pics.

WHAT I WOULD DO BETTER NEXT TIME:
Definatley sand that bondo down more smooth around the edges

Add a screw just below the LED to hold the shell together there

Better paintjob

hey all, hope you can learn something from me so far. I really don't have time to address cxwq's concerns right now. I'm working on a gun for THIRST.

You want less talk and more results? You got it.

Did you fill in the grooves in the back of the grip just to make it easier to paint? Or does it feel better to hold?

~Vintage

Umm.. Neither I guess. I just wanted them gone. They're kind of ugly on a gun that consists mostly of smooth surfaces. It's not that hard if you're interested in doing it on yours.

Okay, I've started working on my own stripped down, cleaned up version of the PPK since Hunter hasn't acutally done anything more with his.

Here's what I got so far, it's all cut n paste from the wonderful thread over at NHQ:



The first coating of Bondo Jelly went well. I said "too much is better than not enough" and I was right, since I had some pock marks and air bubbles to fill.

The 3 different colors are:
whitish green - the first coat sanded down with sandpapers and Dremel to a fine grit paper
brown - I mixed the parts wrong! Too much hardner and it hardned in about 45 seconds! DO NOT mix yours to this color!
dark green - I had to mix up some more since the brown stuff hardened too fast.

I also had some problems with removing the "nerf" knobs. Apparently, the air chamber sticks out a little bit past the frame/shell, so when you sand it down, you're actually exposing the orange air chamber a bit. On the first bondo sanding, I actually sanded right through to the other side trying to level it out.

Also, if you remove the knobs, you have to take out one of the pegs that holds the screws for holding on the air chamber >_< I'll gob some bondo or Gorilla Glue in and replace the peg after the outside of the shell is finished.

Also also, you'll notice that there's no space left for mounting the LED lens assembly. I actually drilled a hole where it should go, and I'll be putting just an LED in a bic pen housing in the gun. No lens. Hey, it's got a 15 degree radius and it's bright!

As per suggestions, I'm rounding the lower part of the trigger guard. More pics and helpful tips to come!

Of course I edited it. THIRST's a good guy, and his internal work is outstanding. He was in a bad mood, I was up late, stressed out from work and tired, so things got out of hand. We're both past it now and would like the same from you.

It's not that easy. I got my NF from Zero who picked up a few from California. See my problem?

Not really don't they sell them by you? If not, I could always pick you up one and ship it to you.

Ah-Buh-Bup! *bump*

Sorry for the bump. Frankly, I couldn't stand to see my creation go to waste so I wanted to bring it back to the top.

Update: I have primed the shell (2nd coat in 45 minutes), and painted the silencer black. I've also gooped 1/8" of FBR on the inside of the plunger tube, inside the cap piece. Hopefully it will silence it a bit.

Still hoping for input/opinion on this mod and paintjob.

PS. Like my signature? I found that while reading DBF. Damn, thats good. Props to Cxwq for that. Hilarious.

Yeah here's some input:

Get rid of the damn electrical tape.
Clean up those rough edges.
Fill in those holes with some putty.
Put a barrel on it.

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EDIT:

Hey, it's four simple things you could do to keep it from looking like such a hack job. But it did occur to me after you PMed me that you might actually in fact BE 10 or 12 years old and not so experienced in working with the tools/materials needed, in which case, I apoligize and great job! That's a good start! Here's how you can make it look better :

SANDPAPER! GET SOME!
Start with about a 130 grit and get those nasty chunks off! Take about 4 different sheets between 130 and 220 and clean those edges up.

TAPE ON THE OUTSIDE OF A GUN IS FOR 9 YEAR OLDS!
If you REALLY want to attach that mag light tip to the gun, there's plenty of other things to use. First off, you probably just unscrewed it from the mag light. Try finding another threaded piece, or cut the first 3/4 inch off the rest of the mag light and permanently attach that. This way, you can still unscrew the light and lens. Other alternatives include Gorilla Glue, hot glue, or bondo. Just gob that stuff in the hole and when it's dry, sand it!

YOUR WIRES ARE SHOWING!
Those holes are just downright nasty looking! Fill em in! All you need is some bondo. I use the stuff all the time on my resin work, it's amazing. It's like clay you can sand. Just gob some in the hole, let it dry, and sand it smooth. Then you can paint it and NO ONE WILL KNOW THERE WAS A HOLE THERE! If you still want to have gun halves instead of sealing it up with one big ol gob of Bondo here's what you can do:
Take the two gun shell halves. Put masking tape sticky side down over the gun shell where the holes are. Do this on both halves so that when you put them together, you have a masking tape seam running down the crack between the two halves. Now you can fill in both halves, and there will still be a division between them in case you need to take the gun apart again.

WHERE'S THE DART GOING TO GO??
I know you're already working on a barrel, and I can't wait to see it! Great idea, making the rifled barrels and "silencer" style barrels on the guns. Defnately adds a personal touch.

Nerfman, The casing doesn't really allow for that, although I might try it when I get my hands on some Bondo. My only hesitation is that I only have this 1 Nite Finder... so if a mess it up it will make me cry.

They're 7 bucks. I might get another one this weekend. I have a friend who is going to strip it down to the core of the gun, kinda like yours, but he's taking the knobs off. It's just a matter of sanding and filling proper. Just comes with practice.

very nice!you can hardly tell it was a Night Finder now!

I already PMed you about the Snow Camo, I think you have me confused with the almighty Grinch and his painting skills.

Well, if you weren't sure about the barrel before, look at her now.This last pictures shows inside the plunger tube. As you can see, I Gooped 1/8" or 1/2" FBR to hopefully silence some of the noise. It's a wierd looking picture, and those who are not familiar with the NF's internals will not understand it, so don't bother asking.

I think I should have finished pics up for tomorrow.
Hunter

PS. You can't really tell from the pictures, but you can see the brass barrel through the silencer's holes. In the words of a superior, "Ah, the unholy glow of brass." It does look pretty sweet.
Also, I gooped all of the seperate pieces of the plunger tube together to ensure nothing falls apart and no air leaks out.

Yeah that's what it is. NHQ's forum makes posts quoting people look like the orignal posts...

Anyway, lookin good! How's the rest of the gun coming? Are you going to keep it or sell it? These guns are cheap enough were you could probably mod and sell them. I'm going to range test mine and put it up on Ebay just to see what happens.

Ok...
Lets address this one at a time:
1: I'm 15. I'm no idiot. As long as you don't talk to me like a small child, I'll listen. So, if I'm a little kid I did great, but if I'm older I suck? Harsh, man. For that I stick my tongue out at you.

2: It looked a bit hacked up. Please realize I had accomplished something that no one else had so I was excited to stick up pictures. Since then I've made it look much nicer.
3: The light was not taped on. There was tape around the light to prevent in from falling apart, but it was not taped on the gun. Again, I was anxious and pround.
4: I really like the putty idea.. may use that.
5: I addressed the barrel issue. Yet again, I wanted to stick pictures up. I was happy. Forgive me for my haste.

It will blow u away when it's done.

1. You're doing an awesome job. I just pulled a couple numbers out of my butt, since from looking at the war pics on this board, most people here pretty young. What I meant was, If you're old and have been doing this for a long time and that's the best you can do, try harder. If you're new at it and are working hard, great job! Some people don't have the skills to finish the job and just leave a gun at that stage.

After seeing the "snow camo" paintjob, I have faith in your painting skills, but if you were to leave the gun like that, it would be like putting a $1000 paintjob on a $200 car... >_<. Your PPK is a brilliant idea for that little gun, and the "silencer" excuse for having a long barrel on it is perfect. I'd hate to see you screw it up by not cleaning up those ROUGH edges, and leaving big ol gaps in the gun. You said you were adding the barrel, but didn't say the gun was 60% or 80% complete. Seriously, do it right, and people will sit up and take notice. That's gonna be a great little gun when it's done. And hell, if you have the sanding tools and the bondo, why not just take those goofy "knobs" off the gun too? These things are so cheap that if you screw it up, you can always get another one and use the messed up shell one for parts.

That looks like a fun project! I'm sure there's some LARPers who'd be interested in that. I had a few ask me to make them nerf shooting crossbows, but then the Van Hellsing one came out and I said "just go buy that. it'll work for what you're doing".

That video is pretty funny. Of course, if someone could get vids of the LOTR Ringgame..... they don't even have physical combat in that, it's all dialogue based combat. I read a girl's LJ where she documented a weekend playing. *yawn* BORING. Guess it really is Nerf or Nothing

Know what would look even better on it? SPLATTERED ZOMBIE BLOOD! MUHAHAHAHAHA! Or some spikes or bolts on the stock for krakkin skulls... >

Wait, wait. No. It's missing rubberbands. those are pretty. And electrical tape.

$150? You nutcase.
Can you say cocky n00b?  I also eat babies.

$150 is low for an X-bow. He's sold probably 3 or 4 STOCK for over 100. He's had offers from people last fall for more than $150.

Oompa, your X-bow looks great! But why did you put the pump for the 2nd gun on the bottom, instead of on the top? Planning on sticking something else there?

And as far as the bondo, take the gun shell apart and bondo each half separately. Then sand and trim the thwo halves to make them fit back together. This way, you can still open the gun if you need to. Otherwise, it would be impossible to open again if you've partially filled in the seam.

Hey, I dont eat babies! They're too fatty! I need something with more MEAT! Raaaahh!

Sorry, Necro. I didn't mean it as a flame. Just a joke. I find it funny that your new here and your trying to sell that for over $150. Maybe it's not that funny... whatever. Just, sorry.

And, yes, the n00b joke often doesn't apply anymore. Since 3dBBQ came.. well... don't call him a n00b. Same with Katachi, here. The guy is bloody brilliant, look at his website. ......foam katana.....

Yeah we like to judge poeple by their work, not by how many posts they have Some of us have known about the websites and read the stuff on them for years, but haven't posted. There's some crazy stuff being made by people here. In fact, someone just e-mailed me plans for a home made pump gun with a solenoid that has to be the cleanest design I've ever seen. I'm not a big fan of guns you have to pump. To me, more than 3 pumps is too much work, unless it's for something that fires more than one dart like a Powerclip or Wildfire.

But hey, it's all strategy and theory talk anyway, right? You find out what works on the battlefield!

i like monkeys. put a dart in it's mouth, then slap it in the ass real hard. 200 ft MINIMUM!

talk about spankin yer monkey, yo.

anyone have any feelings about the supermaxx 1000? i have one i'm gonna try and do some stuff with, just curious what's been done.

nerf guns are an odd market. as katachi mentioned, i've sold crossbows for over $100 stock. same for vortex firestorms. it all depends on who the customer is. hell, i sold a 3 shot secret shot for $40!

anyway, i'll agree that my crossbow price is rather steep. mainly cause it took so damn long to make. i lost blood to that gun (and failed a class). i'll probably just hang onto it as a conversation piece that leaves welts. the game i made it for is sort of an assasin type of thing, both nerf and melee weapons. we had a lot of whiney people playing who would even yell "ouch" over a ten foot hit from a stock secret shot.

i'm lookin at the night site right now, and thinking it's got WAY too much stuff on it. if i end up messin with it, i'll post some pics.

yeah, i've been modding for a little while, but my designs tend to be a bit rough. i've seen some much prettier work on this forum. bottom line, it's the skill, not the time.

Hey! I used a Monkey Spank gun! They don't call me Monkey Spankerelli for nothing!

It's ok man, just cry it out... We're here for you.

(By here for you I mean we're sitting here laughing our asses off.)
Ok I'm done.

Wait, no I'm not. I agree with Shortshit, the priming time is really not that bad. Just learn to pump fast. If anyone takes that the wrong way, you deserve to have a hot brand shoved up your ass.

~ompa

The hell? You think I'm crying about it? I could care less what gun you like the most. There's enough decent guns out there now so that everyone can have a favorite. If they work, they work. It's not going to make you a better player. A n00b with a maxshot is still a n00b. But getting back to the original discussion, some people prefer Crossbows over other guns and they're willing to pay more for one, since Crossbows already have a reputation for being good guns.

If you're playing a tactial game and you need to lay down a supressive fire so that your other teammates can flank, pumping is a waste of time. 3-4 pumps versus one plunger pull does make a difference when you're trying to cover someone. I don't know. Maybe you all play more "deathmatch" one-on-one style games.

You'd be suprised at what people would pay $100-400 for...

Maybe when I'm rich and famous a decade from now I will truly understand! It would also be different if the CB was still one of the only really good loser weapons like it was back in the day, but now the AT2K and the SM5k and the SM1500 and the Maxshot and blah blah blah all have comperable'ish ranges to that, so there is really no reason to search out an X-bow unless its your favorite gun EVERERERERER and you just only want to use that gun.

edit: Mini painballs? how much do they weight/cost!? LINK nerf with mini paintballs would be kinda a cool function as far as the "did i hit u" ness of it, sure it would only work in airguns but thatd be a fun little option ha!

Yeah but how many times do you have to pump those other guns? The Crossbow is just one pull and you're ready. If it was one pump, and they shot as far and as accurate as a well modded Crossbow, I could see how people would prefer them over Crossbows. Anything with an airtank just looks silly to me, personally... That Crossbow's got style.

He's been Nerfing longer? Really? I've never seen or heard of him. I've been Nerfing for 7 years. Only modding for 6 months, though. And, Thirst, I'm not a cocky n00b, so bite your forked tongue.

PS. Katachi, what the hell is with this quoting stuff? I DONT EAT BABIES! 

Awwww no baby eaters in the forum. Ah well, more for me then.

Yeah hopefully when these new guns come out, and IF they're halfway decent, we'll see more people modding guns. Personally, I want to take that 6 shot semi auto and put all the barrels closer together. And hack that shell up and take off all the unnecessary stuff.

If they really are being sold in a set only, there will probably be a market for selling the guns seperately, especially if they were modded and painted proper. Unfortunately, there's no new Crossbow so those will have to be custom built.

Shortshit: believe it. There are tons of rich kids, or gamers desparate to get attention from having the best gun. Yeah it's just a plastic toy gun, but some people have money to throw around. You'd be suprised at what people would pay $100-400 for...

Maybe, but if you just spend a bit of time you could probably find the same plastic gun within 50 miles of you for probably 1/4 the price.

~ompa

That's why you gotta sell custom or rare pieces that people CAN'T find elswhere. Selling Nite Finders won't get you anywhere, but selling Crossbows, Powerclips, or high demand, custom, or rare guns is where the money was. Lock n Loads aren't really worth as much now that the Tech Target and Nite Finder are out. On a good day, you can find someone to pay $100+ for a crossbow and $50+ for a Powerclip. It's just a matter of watching and waiting for the supply to run low and the demand to rise.

Hm... you know, you could probably route that second keyring trigger to be in the trigger guard, I did it and it works great.



Other than that, great job. I love the plunger, it must be so damn durable. Mine came broken, which really pissed me off.


Yes, those Thai noodles were good.

~ompa

hmmm... are you any good with fiberglas?

Cuz what I would do is, I'd cut some sheets of the cloth, flip the gun over, spray it with mold release, and make a fiberglas U shaped plate that goes over the pump, and maybe 1-2 inches up on the gun. Let it dry, pop it off, paint it, and SCREW it on. That way, you can still take the gun apart if you need to. But that's fiberglas work. Messy stuff. >_< But it would be much lighter than a big ol gob of bondo and probably look better.

Something else to consider, people:

Necrotech and Oopmas guns are actually TWO guns. So you might pay 70 bucks for a good crossbow and 40 bucks for a good Supermaxx 1500, that's already $110 right there, not inluding paying for all the work that went into putting the two together. $150 is a STEAL!