Is S.L.A.N.G. is around? Do any of its member play with the UNFF (Utah Nerf Foam Flingers). 

 Dec Event Poster.pages.pdf   2.07MB   375 downloads

307 Nerf Foam Flingers December 17th 

CWC Gymnasium Riverton Wyoming

Holiday War Schedule

12:00-12:30-Gear Up, Team Formation and Meet up

12:30-1:00-Pictures, Nerf Exchange and Rules

(Blaster will be available to use for anyone who needs one)

1:00-3:30-War Battles

King of the Hill (Cube)

Red vs. Yellow

Green vs. Blue

Loser of Game 1 vs. Loser of Game 2

Winner of Game 1 vs. Winner of Game 2

Demolition

Blue vs. Yellow

Green vs. Red

Loser of Game 1 vs. Loser of Game 2

Winner of Game 1 vs. Winner of Game 2

Capture the Flag (Teams will combine)

HVZ

Survivor

Antidote

Birthday Game TBA

3:30-4:00-Individual Battles

Last Man Standing

The Quick and the Dead 

TBD by Group Vote of Facebook

December:


[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/topic/27360-307-foam-flingers-holiday-war/] 17th [WY] Holiday War[/url]

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Are there any plans for Armageddon 2017 yet?

Will a 240 fps longshot be allowed? It can shoot full length or half length darts. I am planning on running voberry darts. 

I am not from Vegas but I will be there Nov.11th and 12th for a conference. I would be down for a war if you want to set something up. Let me know.

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Do you still nerf. I am coming to town Nov. 11th and 12th and would love to have a small war one evening.

I was able to break 250 fps with a caliburn for the first time. I am not sure what the highest reading is so far but this seemed notable. I averaged 248.2 over 5 darts with a high of 254.7. I am shooting sweet orange half length darts. My Caliburn is a early (before etsy store) 3D printed version that I bought of Captain Slug on eBay. It has been upgraded with an aluminum rod and o-ring plunger (the o-ring plunger has two o-rings for a better seal). I am using a [[k25]] and K31 combo spring set up. This is getting an additional 30 fps over a [[k26]] by itself. It may be worth selling these on the etsy store as a pair. The k31 perfectly nest inside the [[k25]]. I am using a 3d printed 4 string scar on the original 14 inch barrel. The plan is to upgrade to a 18 inch barrel next. Has anyone had better results than this (other than the hpa version)?

You mentioned on Facebook that you tried a 788 + K31, correct? And that it was still pretty hot, but lower effort to prime than the [k26] alone? Please confirm I'm not sure I have that correct and I'm not clear on the source of the 788 springs. 

 

Slightly related:

I'm thinking about ways to adjust or change the dart velocity, other than swapping around springs or O-rings. 

Is it possible to guess approximately how much internal pressure is generated by the typical [k26] set up? 

 

I am thinking if a small adjustable blow-off valve could be added, a person could then adjust on the fly.

https://www.acklands...ALVE/p/WWG4ZK10

 

Or perhaps ports drilled in the barrel, that could be covered or uncovered by rotating the barrel a bit, or rotating a sleeve that covers it. 

The 788 and k31 is getting mid 180's consistently. I just tried it with an 18 inch barrel and got mid 190's over 10 darts. The prime is super smooth and extremely easy to rapid fire. I actually used this weekend in a war and did quite well with it. It will probably be my go to spring combo. I would just get all 4 springs ([k25], [k26], K31, and 788) to control velocity. You can use tons of different combos to tune it between 140-250 pretty quickly. You need a really good seal to get these numbers by the way. That is where I would focus my energy. I double up my o-rings on the plunger and ram in the pt, bought the aluminum rod, and put 3 o-rings on the ram for a complete seal into the barrel. The [k25] and K31 combo has the highest velocity but has the heaviest prime. Good luck and keep playing with the set up until you tune it to your needs. 

Thanks for the reminder. I've been meaning to start the list and retire the old one. As a note, though, the list is updated as people post new wars, so even if the schedule isn't up, you should be able to find threads that people have started to advertise their wars.

Any idea when Armageddon is going to happen? Trying to plan a trip around it.

Feb. 10th in Yauger Park Olympia WA 10:30-4:30

https://www.facebook...43422546027094/

Join this group on facebook for more updates;

https://www.facebook...49391212073139/

Those are gen 2's. Gen 2 worker darts come in both white and green foam. Gen 1 is only yellow foam. I recommend gen 1 over gen 2 mostly due to durability. Gen 1 has better glue and will last longer. The gen 2 darts have a little thicker foam. The foam thickness, color, and the glue are the only differences I have noticed between the two. The fly great out of 17/32nd brass and 1/2 cpvc. The have a gap between the head and foam which causes a whistling sound in flight but mostly acts as a way to stabilize the dart. They are the most accurate half length dart I have ever used including slugs. They do get a little less velocity due to weight and the gap between the foam and the head. I get 255 using sweet orange dart in my caliburn with a 18 inch barrel and a k31/[k25] spring combo. They same set up gets 240ish with worker darts on average.

 

Great, well I wasted about 15 bucks ordering 20 50 dart packs instead of the other bulk/white green listings. Friggin China listings. I will try contact them to modify the order but I'm not expecting much. 15 bucks isn't the end of the world, its more the principal. Also kind of my fault for being impatient and ordering before this thread got more replies. 

Thanks for the info!

Not really a waste. I have 1000 green ones and they still work well. They just don't hold up as well as the 1200 yellow ones I have. They are damn good darts either way. They will not work in a traditional wye though. They work great in my caliburn. I have a 3d printed wye that they feed through super consistently for my rainbow pump and my supermaxx 5k.

Accufakes work great in flywheelers and loose breeches. They are terrible in brass and cpvc. The cheap ones on lightake and ebay have been hit and miss as far as glue quality. I have had a lot of them pop off on the first shot. They are really not any better than waffles. Personally I like mengun style darts as they work in everything except a regular pvc wye hopper set up. They have great glue also. 

The issue with most IMR's is that they only supply around 5-10 amps per battery. They really shouldn't be used with any aftermarket motors. The revamps are 28 amps at stall per motor (so 56 amps per set). Three IMR's will not gives it enough amps in a stall situation. This will cause your batteries to be at greater risk of fire or frying your switch. IMR's are usually poorly manufactured and aren't really made for this application. If you are stuck with a 14500 form factor look at LIFE4POS batteries. They are much safer chemistry but still aren't optimal for your setup. $200 for a stryfe is pretty crazy. I usually build mine for around $60-$70. Also the revamps would spin at around 55,000 rpms on three IMR's which is why too fast for every brushed motor cage except the eclipse (Skip the eclipse until the 2nd gen wheels come out)

TLDR: Skip IMR's due to fire risk and go to LIFE4POS if stuck on 14500 size. They are safer chemistry. Use 7.4 volts. 

Why not just go with the morpheus cage in a 41.5mm. It will get better velocity than your 42mm cage with the added accuracy of a guide. 9/16ths seems to be the standard but 19/32nds could work.

Who is planning on putting the 2018 war schedule up? Also when will Armageddon be happening this year. Summer wars are already starting to be booked. It would be good to have a date.

Check out the Colorado Nerf Club. They are in the Denver area. They have held wars for the last couple of months. I think they are getting around a dozen players per war but they will keep growing. https://www.facebook...00053890115072/

The best canted cage in terms of accuracy (Dr. Snikkas Cage) uses extremely concave wheels. It helps that the wheels were specifically designed for the cage though. Concave wheels are the way to go all around in my findings. I use the snikkas wheels in a specially designed straight ofp cage and they are more accurate than any other straight cage I have other than the FDL.

Concave would be a good idea for the non-canted wheel, but would probably fuck off the accuracy on the canted.  My suggestion would be flat in the canted position and concave in the flat position.

Is Armageddon happening this year? If so what week in June?