Yeah, I suppose if it only manages to achieve Vulcan ranges then it won't be so great. Hopefully some clever folk on here will come up with some good mods for it, though. I could see it being very useful if the ranges were decent.
Think about it this way: It's like a Vulcan, but it uses the clip system. That alone is pretty great.
MavericK96's Content
There have been 171 items by MavericK96 (Search limited from 26-December 96)
#279132 You Guys Might Like This!
Posted by
on 01 July 2010 - 05:15 AM
in
General Nerf
#279121 You Guys Might Like This!
Posted by
on 30 June 2010 - 11:52 PM
in
General Nerf
The Spartan just looks like a small vulcan. But I like the bipod/fore grip.
...Which is AWESOME, IMO. Depending on the moddability of it. A semi/full auto Nerf assault rifle? DO WANT.
#88034 When And How Did You Start Nerfing?
Posted by
on 22 August 2006 - 04:17 AM
in
General Nerf
First gun - Original Bow N' Arrow
First modded gun - Same, I think. Sawed off the tip for better airflow and dart-firing capability
First gun I ever opened up was probably the Crossbow or the Sharpshooter II.
Don't remember how I got into Nerf. Probably just got the first as a gift, and thought it was really fun to shoot friends so I got more.
First modded gun - Same, I think. Sawed off the tip for better airflow and dart-firing capability
First gun I ever opened up was probably the Crossbow or the Sharpshooter II.Don't remember how I got into Nerf. Probably just got the first as a gift, and thought it was really fun to shoot friends so I got more.
#290432 Ultimator With K14 Spring And Clear Plunger Tube
Posted by
on 07 December 2010 - 11:51 PM
in
Modifications
And just for the benefit of those that have never seen/fired one of these: how exactly does one prime an ultimator?
You "pump" the priming handle (i.e. lift it upward) about 20 times (however many times it takes for it to stop being prime-able). It's not an air pump, though, it just gradually draws back the plunger with each "pump".
#290272 Ultimator With K14 Spring And Clear Plunger Tube
Posted by
on 06 December 2010 - 05:01 PM
in
Modifications
I've got an Ultimator, but no real desire to do this mod, although it is pretty sweet.
Maybe I'll sell it, though the shipping would be murder...
Maybe I'll sell it, though the shipping would be murder...
#170781 Turning Your Longshot's Shotgun Attatchment Into A Pistol
Posted by
on 19 August 2008 - 10:08 PM
in
Modifications
I think this is one of the first things people did when the Longshot came out. Then it progressed from this to integration into the front of the Longshot itself.
#287921 Troubleshooting: Stampede Firing Uncontrollably
Posted by
on 04 November 2010 - 03:56 PM
in
Modifications
SGNerf, Spartan, and myself have been doing testing on this issue over at the NerfSG forums. We concluded that it can be due to a number of issues, but here are some of the likely causes:
1. Mangled/misplaced catch control spring (seen below)
(Photos taken from Nerf SG forum)
Either reset the spring, or replace with a stronger one (a pen spring works well if it's the right size)
2. Black plunger return spring not strong enough (I know you said you tried this, but stretching this spring helped me solve my problems)
3. Needs additional lubrication on the plunger o-ring (usually if you've replaced the o-ring with a stronger one, such as the one in the Stampede Upgrade Kit that SGNerf sells)
Messing with these things fixed the problem for me. I've been using 2x 7.2v battery packs (~16-17V fully charged) in my Stampede and had the auto-firing issue, but after doing these fixes it's working great now.
1. Mangled/misplaced catch control spring (seen below)
(Photos taken from Nerf SG forum)
Either reset the spring, or replace with a stronger one (a pen spring works well if it's the right size)
2. Black plunger return spring not strong enough (I know you said you tried this, but stretching this spring helped me solve my problems)
3. Needs additional lubrication on the plunger o-ring (usually if you've replaced the o-ring with a stronger one, such as the one in the Stampede Upgrade Kit that SGNerf sells)
Messing with these things fixed the problem for me. I've been using 2x 7.2v battery packs (~16-17V fully charged) in my Stampede and had the auto-firing issue, but after doing these fixes it's working great now.
#165504 The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!
Posted by
on 30 July 2008 - 06:16 PM
in
Modifications
AA and AAA batteries do not last the same amount of time with the same power. The voltage is the same, but the amperage, which determines how long it can handle a load (basically, don't nitpick, I know the difference), is different. D batteries last much much longer.
Actually, I don't know about regular Alkaline, but NiMH rechargeables for both AA/AAA and D both seem to have about the same current-time rating (~2500 mAh) so in that respect they should have about the same power.
One question I had, which I wasn't quite able to discern from your writeup, was whether or not you were connecting the two 7.2V batteries in series or parallel. Also, what kind of battery life are you getting from that setup? When I get my hands on a Vulcan I'd like to do a similar battery mod, but I was wondering if it would be better to just get a higher voltage battery (9.6V or something) rather than buy two lower voltage ones.
Typical capacity of a single (decent quality) D battery is about 12,000 mAH (link).
Yeah, I looked it up a bit after I posted and found that was true for alkaline batteries, though the consumer-grade rechargeables (Energizer, Duracell, Rayovac, etc) seem to only have around 2500 mAh apiece, which seems kind of lame, to be honest. To get something around 10,000 mAh you have to get industrial-grade NiMH, which cost a fortune (~$20 apiece).
And thanks for the info about the connection. I figure it was probably series, but I wasn't sure if running the motor at that high of a voltage was a good idea.
#165446 The Vulcan: Internals And Mods! New Mods Pg.9!
Posted by
on 30 July 2008 - 03:32 PM
in
Modifications
AA and AAA batteries do not last the same amount of time with the same power. The voltage is the same, but the amperage, which determines how long it can handle a load (basically, don't nitpick, I know the difference), is different. D batteries last much much longer.
Actually, I don't know about regular Alkaline, but NiMH rechargeables for both AA/AAA and D both seem to have about the same current-time rating (~2500 mAh) so in that respect they should have about the same power.
One question I had, which I wasn't quite able to discern from your writeup, was whether or not you were connecting the two 7.2V batteries in series or parallel. Also, what kind of battery life are you getting from that setup? When I get my hands on a Vulcan I'd like to do a similar battery mod, but I was wondering if it would be better to just get a higher voltage battery (9.6V or something) rather than buy two lower voltage ones.
#329774 The Rapidstrike CS-18, a Sneak Peak
Posted by
on 13 May 2013 - 07:47 PM
in
General Nerf
I could see picking one of these up if it was just a simple voltage mod to get it going that fast. Could use my 7.2v battery packs with it instead of the Stampede (which has had many annoying problems).
#170779 The Most Powerful Longshot In The World (paintball C02)
Posted by
on 19 August 2008 - 10:06 PM
in
Modifications
I also fail to see the point of this "mod." Why not just use the paintball gun on its own with a modified barrel for darts if necessary? The only way this would actually be useful is if you integrated the paintball gun in such a way that the stock bolt and magazine system still worked. It would be even more awesome if you could somehow make it semi-automatic, using excess CO2 to move the bolt and load in a new round from the magazine.
#292983 The Mave
Posted by
on 16 January 2011 - 11:30 PM
in
Modifications
Isn't 27-35 ft about average for a standard modded Maverick anyway? Doesn't this just cut down the RoF by a ton?
I would have thought singling it would increase the range considerably. Either way, inventive mod.
I would have thought singling it would increase the range considerably. Either way, inventive mod.
#135807 The Dark Knight Wayne Tech Tri-fire Blaster
Posted by
on 13 January 2008 - 08:50 AM
in
General Nerf
It looks to me like there's no real trigger, and it's more like an old-school Bow N' Arrow spring mechanism.
Could be wrong, though.
Could be wrong, though.
#291530 The Compleat Stampede Mod
Posted by
on 26 December 2010 - 01:20 AM
in
Modifications
Interesting. I guess you said you moved the batteries to a belt pack because of the weight, but FYI two of those rechargeable packs will fit in the back stock without any modification. That's what I have, and it feels fine (certainly not any heavier than 6 D cell batteries, anyway).
Nice job on the front barrel cut-off with the white pieces. Looks more than halfways decent, which is hard to say for some other cut-off jobs I've seen.
I like your battery connector solution, too.
EDIT: Also, regarding your battery question, the two 7.2v batteries read something like 16.7v fully-charged because 7.2v is just the battery's nominal voltage. A lot of the time full batteries will vary upwards of that by quite a bit.
(And it doesn't take an electrical engineer, but as it so happens, I am one. )
Nice job on the front barrel cut-off with the white pieces. Looks more than halfways decent, which is hard to say for some other cut-off jobs I've seen.
I like your battery connector solution, too.EDIT: Also, regarding your battery question, the two 7.2v batteries read something like 16.7v fully-charged because 7.2v is just the battery's nominal voltage. A lot of the time full batteries will vary upwards of that by quite a bit.
(And it doesn't take an electrical engineer, but as it so happens, I am one.
)
#290433 Strongarm Modification
Posted by
on 07 December 2010 - 11:52 PM
in
Modifications
I've got one of these that I'd be willing to sell to someone.
#87495 Stefans In Longshot
Posted by
on 15 August 2006 - 02:50 AM
in
Modifications
Hey guys...First time poster, long time Nerfer.
Anyway, I've also been curious about using Stefans in the Longshot ever since I bought it recently. I made a batch of micro-Stefans for my Mavericks (I've had this nick long before the gun was ever conceived, btw ;P but based on the name alone I had to buy them, heh), and attempting to use these in my Longshot resulted in failure. The dart itself fits fine in the clip, and appears to fit in the barrel alright, but for some reason it either gets pushed too far forward, or not far enough forward, and results in the dart either not firing and/or being able to just fall out of the barrel. What I'd really like to know is if the restrictor is removed from the gun, can these be used? Or is the only option to just use Stefan-converted micro-darts? Thanks for the help.
Anyway, I've also been curious about using Stefans in the Longshot ever since I bought it recently. I made a batch of micro-Stefans for my Mavericks (I've had this nick long before the gun was ever conceived, btw ;P but based on the name alone I had to buy them, heh), and attempting to use these in my Longshot resulted in failure. The dart itself fits fine in the clip, and appears to fit in the barrel alright, but for some reason it either gets pushed too far forward, or not far enough forward, and results in the dart either not firing and/or being able to just fall out of the barrel. What I'd really like to know is if the restrictor is removed from the gun, can these be used? Or is the only option to just use Stefan-converted micro-darts? Thanks for the help.
#284718 Stampede Vs Vulcan
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 11:46 PM
in
Modifications
Vulcan sucks, stampede awesome. that is all.
Pretty much sums it up. Slap some rechargeable batteries/battery pack in there and go.
#284816 Stampede Vs Vulcan
Posted by
on 05 September 2010 - 12:38 AM
in
Modifications
I'm not taking a side, but there is also the ability to cock the Vulcan. Can't do that with a Stampede. And D batteries suck.
Slap some rechargeable batteries/battery pack in there and go.
Problem solved.
But I agree about the manual priming. Might be nice to have that for the Stampede. Might even be able to mod that ability in, who knows?
#333276 Stampede voltage upgrade issue
Posted by
on 20 August 2013 - 01:59 AM
in
Modifications
I HAD to cut down that white piece to get my modded Stampede (9kg spring and 14.4v battery packs) to stop auto-firing. I think it ended up being about 60% of the thing cut off for me before it worked.
#285187 Stampede Triple-h Mag
Posted by
on 09 September 2010 - 07:18 PM
in
Modifications
I think a nice mod/official add-on would be a holder for a clip that slides onto a rail-system rail, such as the side rails on the Stampede. They're really not useful for anything else.
#285395 Stampede Problems
Posted by
on 14 September 2010 - 03:10 PM
in
Modifications
The most likely candidate is probably the wire that connects the safety switch to the rest of the circuit. If you pulled the two halves completely apart it's possible that you severed it.
#280384 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage
Posted by
on 16 July 2010 - 11:36 AM
in
General Nerf
Let me just say...Awesome.
Ranges look average but probably with an AR removal they could be decent. Mostly I'm just excited about the idea of a clip system full-auto rifle.
Ranges look average but probably with an AR removal they could be decent. Mostly I'm just excited about the idea of a clip system full-auto rifle.
#280640 Stampede Official Nerf Demo Coverage
Posted by
on 18 July 2010 - 09:52 PM
in
General Nerf
I can't imagine the batteries would run out that quickly. I've got the Vulcan and I've fired many, many belts through it and the batteries are still going strong. That's the advantage of having those huge D batteries in there, lots of mAh.
I think for what you get with this (3 extended clips + (possibly) 1 standard clip, shield, foregrip) this blaster is totally worth $50. I'll definitely be picking one up when it comes out.
I think for what you get with this (3 extended clips + (possibly) 1 standard clip, shield, foregrip) this blaster is totally worth $50. I'll definitely be picking one up when it comes out.
#285184 Stampede Lag Question
Posted by
on 09 September 2010 - 07:14 PM
in
Modifications
There's a lag because the plunger is not in a pulled-back position by default. When the trigger is pulled, the motor has to pull back the plunger and release it. Increasing the voltage should help, but there's really no way to eliminate the lag entirely because of how the blaster works.
#284624 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:35 PM
in
Modifications
Correct. It is very similar to the Longshot. I believe SGNerf did some comparison side-by-sides with the Longshot plunger and they were practically identical.
It seems to me the way the mechanism works is by pulling the entire bolt sled/plunger tube forward over the dart, while holding the plunger rod back and compressing the spring. Then, when the maximum pull is reached, the plunger is released and forces the dart out of the chamber and the entire bolt sled assembly slides backwards again to load another dart. It's pretty ingenious in its simplicity and efficiency, really.
It seems to me the way the mechanism works is by pulling the entire bolt sled/plunger tube forward over the dart, while holding the plunger rod back and compressing the spring. Then, when the maximum pull is reached, the plunger is released and forces the dart out of the chamber and the entire bolt sled assembly slides backwards again to load another dart. It's pretty ingenious in its simplicity and efficiency, really.
#284719 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 11:49 PM
in
Modifications
So, after some more experience with the Stampede, I have to say the accuracy leaves something to be desired. Using normal Streamlines, they can spin wildly off-center. Using my own shorter Stefans, it seems a lot more accurate and performs better as well. Sometimes with Streamlines I would get a few that would barely shoot 15 feet, and some that would shoot 30+. Not sure what the huge variance is, but it's a bit annoying. The ROF is second to none, though, for not having to prime anything at all.
#284629 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:58 PM
in
Modifications
I don't have any way of getting accurate ranges right now (no tape measure long enough), but with some quick testing I would say it's about on par with an AR-removed Alpha Trooper in terms of range. I tested it against an AR-removed, spring stretched Longshot and the Longshot is definitely more powerful.
Still, it has some pretty good potential. It may be possible to stretch the spring or put in a more powerful one, but the strain on the gears/motor might be considerably increased and could cause the blaster to fail.
The big draw of this blaster is that it is a clip-system, fully-automatic, compact (compared to the Vulcan, anyway) assault weapon.
The ultimate mod for this blaster would be the following:
1. AR removal/O-ring replacement/spring replacement (maybe)
2. Battery mod (rechargeable battery pack, possible greater voltage)
3. Brass breech
4. Machined steel/aluminum gears, maybe even high-quality plexi versus the nylon plastic ones that are stock
5. Motor replacement (if possible)
Everything except the gear replacements is probably doable with not a ton of effort or money.
Still, it has some pretty good potential. It may be possible to stretch the spring or put in a more powerful one, but the strain on the gears/motor might be considerably increased and could cause the blaster to fail.
The big draw of this blaster is that it is a clip-system, fully-automatic, compact (compared to the Vulcan, anyway) assault weapon.
The ultimate mod for this blaster would be the following:
1. AR removal/O-ring replacement/spring replacement (maybe)
2. Battery mod (rechargeable battery pack, possible greater voltage)
3. Brass breech
4. Machined steel/aluminum gears, maybe even high-quality plexi versus the nylon plastic ones that are stock
5. Motor replacement (if possible)
Everything except the gear replacements is probably doable with not a ton of effort or money.
#284658 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 10:52 PM
in
Modifications
Not sure what you're thinking of, but there's no way plexiglass replacement gears could be even half as good as nylon.
Honestly I don't know much about plexi vs. nylon, but it seemed like plexi might be stronger, or rather some sort of acrylic sheet? I have no idea, just brainstorming. Metal would of course be the best, but most people don't have the facilities to cut metal that precisely.
#284622 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 02 September 2010 - 06:18 PM
in
Modifications
This is pretty easy to do, but I'll post a write-up just because I haven't seen anyone post it yet.
Tools needed:
-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit
-Time
-Patience
Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:
First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.
After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:
After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:
Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:
After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.
There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.
You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:
...and the front:
Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:
Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.
I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:
Front:
Rear:
(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)
And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.
With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.
Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading.
Tools needed:
-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit
-Time
-Patience
Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:
First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.
After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:
After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:
Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:
After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.
There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.
You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:
...and the front:
Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:
Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.
I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:
Front:
Rear:
(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)
And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.
With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.
Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading.
#284681 Stampede Ar Removal
Posted by
on 03 September 2010 - 12:51 PM
in
Modifications
Right now I'm just trying to figure out the best rechargeable solution. Honestly the ROF with the stock 9V or so seems decent enough to me, and I think I will wait and see what SGNerf reveals with further testing (that 22V ROF is killer ) I've been looking into rechargeable battery packs for Airsoft/RC, and also high-capacity, rechargeable D-cell batteries, but the cost of those is fairly high (~$7 per battery) and the weight would still be pretty significant (the gun seems rear-heavy with standard D-cells).
) I've been looking into rechargeable battery packs for Airsoft/RC, and also high-capacity, rechargeable D-cell batteries, but the cost of those is fairly high (~$7 per battery) and the weight would still be pretty significant (the gun seems rear-heavy with standard D-cells).
#171172 Splitlip's Vulcan Overhaul
Posted by
on 21 August 2008 - 01:03 AM
in
Modifications
Looks awesome, but does the mag actually feed and fire properly? We haven't seen that in a video yet... 
#290504 Spectre Rev-5 Mods
Posted by
on 09 December 2010 - 02:25 PM
in
Modifications
One note to anyone attempting this mod:
I don't know how it was for the OP, but pulling the orange piece off the end of the metal cylinder rod was EXTREMELY difficult for me. Way more so than the Maverick. I pulled as hard as I could for about 15 minutes before it finally gave way, but in the process I ended up flinging the orange end piece and the spring to god knows where in my room. I will probably eventually find it again, but for the moment I'm stuck with a non-working blaster because the thing was so damn difficult to pull apart.
So I guess if anything this is just a warning that it may take a lot of force, and to be careful not to lose the orange piece and spring.
I don't know how it was for the OP, but pulling the orange piece off the end of the metal cylinder rod was EXTREMELY difficult for me. Way more so than the Maverick. I pulled as hard as I could for about 15 minutes before it finally gave way, but in the process I ended up flinging the orange end piece and the spring to god knows where in my room. I will probably eventually find it again, but for the moment I'm stuck with a non-working blaster because the thing was so damn difficult to pull apart.
So I guess if anything this is just a warning that it may take a lot of force, and to be careful not to lose the orange piece and spring.
#332933 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 12 August 2013 - 06:25 PM
in
Modifications
Using stock darts...Will try slugs to see what happens, but it really is strange because the pegs don't actually contact the inside of the dart, so the friction should not be any different.
EDIT: White foam slugs work fine, but you really have to jam them down in there...lots of friction. I'll probably just have to remove the ARs I guess, which is fine.
EDIT: White foam slugs work fine, but you really have to jam them down in there...lots of friction. I'll probably just have to remove the ARs I guess, which is fine.
#332965 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 13 August 2013 - 04:33 PM
in
Modifications
Okay, so, as an update, I removed the ARs and it works fine now with the peg-less shells. Fires really well and has a nice "THUMP", even with normal (non-slug) darts.
I still don't really know for sure what was causing the issue, but after some testing I think I might have an idea.
I noticed that only the bottom (center) one would fire a good distance, EVEN IF there were no other darts in any other barrels. So, for example, I put a dart in one of the upper side-by-side slots, and they would fire like crap. Put one dart in the single bottom slot, and they would fire great. I tried rotating the shell, and still only the bottom single slot would fire correctly.
My theory is that after cutting the pegs out you end up with a bit of space where the AR can accidentally slide inside the rear of the dart, instead of being opened by the edge of the dart as it should. For whatever reason, even though the dead space is the same on each shell slot, the bottom AR has less "give" or something (less wiggle room for the AR peg to become misaligned) and that is why that one works. I did fiddle with pushing down the ARs a bit and it did seem that the top two had more "wiggle" than the bottom.
So with this theory it's entirely possible that, depending on your blaster, it may or may not work properly depending on the tolerance of the ARs.
If it's not that, then I seriously have no clue. It shouldn't actually matter either way if the ARs were designed properly to not wiggle around, but the center piece of the dart peg apparently keeps them stable whereas without that part, they can slip and not fire properly.
I still don't really know for sure what was causing the issue, but after some testing I think I might have an idea.
I noticed that only the bottom (center) one would fire a good distance, EVEN IF there were no other darts in any other barrels. So, for example, I put a dart in one of the upper side-by-side slots, and they would fire like crap. Put one dart in the single bottom slot, and they would fire great. I tried rotating the shell, and still only the bottom single slot would fire correctly.
My theory is that after cutting the pegs out you end up with a bit of space where the AR can accidentally slide inside the rear of the dart, instead of being opened by the edge of the dart as it should. For whatever reason, even though the dead space is the same on each shell slot, the bottom AR has less "give" or something (less wiggle room for the AR peg to become misaligned) and that is why that one works. I did fiddle with pushing down the ARs a bit and it did seem that the top two had more "wiggle" than the bottom.
So with this theory it's entirely possible that, depending on your blaster, it may or may not work properly depending on the tolerance of the ARs.
If it's not that, then I seriously have no clue. It shouldn't actually matter either way if the ARs were designed properly to not wiggle around, but the center piece of the dart peg apparently keeps them stable whereas without that part, they can slip and not fire properly.
#332927 SledgeFire A/R Removal
Posted by
on 12 August 2013 - 02:54 PM
in
Modifications
I haven't removed the AR yet on my Sledgefire, but one interesting (and kind of lame) thing I noticed is that after I removed the posts from one of the shells, the darts don't fire evenly out of that shell anymore. Which makes very little sense, since the posts don't hold down the AR pegs or anything, the dart itself does that. Basically what will happen, though, is that one dart will fire really far and the others will kind of just flop out about 5-10 feet in front of the gun. My only guess is that maybe removing the pegs somehow made the darts fire out less evenly, causing most of the air to go through one slot and not the others. However, this doesn't really make sense because I cut out each peg evenly and the darts are identical.
I assume doing an AR removal would solve this, but I'd kinda hate to lose the ability to fire less than 3 darts at once.
I assume doing an AR removal would solve this, but I'd kinda hate to lose the ability to fire less than 3 darts at once.
#276091 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 05:01 PM
in
Homemades
I wonder if you couldn't set up some sort of two finger trigger system, like some paintball guns have.
#276026 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 05:25 AM
in
Homemades
I'd love to see a detailed write-up of this, as it seems fairly simple in terms of a parts list and construction.
#276077 Rsp-skeleton
Posted by
on 26 May 2010 - 03:36 PM
in
Homemades
Awesome, I'll be watching this thread to see how you did it all.
#291841 R3l Re-shelled
Posted by
on 30 December 2010 - 02:08 AM
in
Homemades
This looks awesome. The only thing better would be if you could get it working with the clip system.
#285188 Quick Stampede Rechargeable Battery Mini Write-up
Posted by
on 09 September 2010 - 07:19 PM
in
Modifications
Very nice, clean mod. I'm awaiting 2x 7.2v battery packs (similar to that one) and I'm going to see if two of them can be jammed in the battery compartment. If not, I will have to get creative.
