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There have been 397 items by BritNerfMogul (Search limited from 25-December 96)
#227223 Crazy Prices You Bought Your Guns
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 30 April 2009 - 12:53 PM in General Nerf
Hey, no one said it had to be cheap prices.
EDIT: Oh shit, didn't see the previous two necros. Sorry Cpt. Slug.
#227227 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 30 April 2009 - 01:06 PM in Modifications
My Pulse Rifle
Check this trigger
And matching scout.
All my guns are going through new paint jobs and all will match the pulse rifle.
#227267 Foamtalk: A Nerf Podcast
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 30 April 2009 - 04:00 PM in General Nerf
#227519 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 06:20 PM in Modifications
Brit’s Paint Tutorial
This was originally posted over on the HQ, but I thought that it couldn't hurt to post it here. This was requested by several members over there and has served them well
Ok, so I said this was going to be a video, but my camera crapped out and you’ve waited long enough. What I’ve done is take pictures (as it’s all my camera would let me do) at each key stage and I’ll fill in the rest with writing. Ok? Good!
Before we start,
Disclaimers:
These techniques that I am about to show you are partly because of the paints that I use. Your paints may not have the same affect. Although, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy the same paints as me. Experiment and see what works.
Onward:
Step 1.
Firstly, strip the gun, not yourself (unless you like that). Place the shell off to one side and start on the internals. Do whatever you what to them. I just drilled the AR’s for now to save time.
Step 2.
Wipe down the blaster shell and any other parts that you are painting with a dry tissue. This removes any residue oil and dust and gives a clean surface for your paint to stick to.
Step 3.
Apply a base coat of chaos black spray to the blaster. Try not to cover the thing first time. Make slow, sweeping movements across the shell until you have an even coat. Too much paint will result in the details of the blaster being lost under layers of paint. Also, make sure that you spray in a warm atmosphere. If it isn’t warm, your paint will ‘bloom’. This is where the paint goes a funny white-grey colour. It isn’t a good thing.
Step 4.
Apply a layer of varnish. I do this between every colour just as a personal habit. I feel happier knowing that there are several layers on protection on the PJ.
Step 5.
Now you can break out the brushes. Colours can be done by ear, so go with your gut and paint what you think is right. Always paint one colour at a time, this allows you to build up the paint job and see what it feels like. Always varnish between layers. To get the flatness with the paint, I paint slowly and use a big brush with lots of paint on. I go over the same area over and over again until no brush strokes can be seen.
Step 6.
Add any details. Details for me include screw heads and drybrushing. Drybrushing is achieved by dipping an old brush (something with splayed bristles) and dipping it in your chosen paint. Then wipe most of it off until you have almost none on. Then LIGHTLY pass the brush over the shell. The brush should just touch the shell. This makes sure that the paint only hits the raised areas, making them stand out.
Step 7.
When you’re sure that you’re happy with your painting, apply one final coat of varnish. Then reassemble and VIOLA!
Also, my LS in the same style
I hope that this has helped and any questions and comments may be posted below.
#227526 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 06:35 PM in Modifications
That's kickass. Good way to paint.
Where do you get the varnish?
It's all from the games workshop. It's satin finish.
#227530 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 06:50 PM in Modifications
Could you provide a link to the varnish, I have searched Games Workshop and can't find it.
Do my best. May have to come from the UK site thought -
http://www.games-wor...dId=prod1620041
My bad - It's called Purity Seal (Satin Varnish)
#227537 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 07:28 PM in Modifications
I've always wanted to know what the best method for painting was, brushes or spray paint. Now I know, it is a mixture rather than the two separate. Nice work with the paint.
It's all in the technique. The spray gives an even base for you to work from, while the brushing gives you the extra control over your details.
And thanks again for the kind words.
#227539 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 07:37 PM in Modifications
By utilizing the catch off the old stock, it can still be swapped out for the original if the user desires. This is the Mark 1 version. MK. 2 has a PJ, and two 6mm sheets of wood covering the holes. Will post new pics when I've finished moving house.
#227546 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 01 May 2009 - 08:26 PM in Modifications
You probably should sand the gun first, so that the paint doesn't affect the moving parts of the gun.
I would if I painted the internals. Most of them are left unpainted. So far, I've had no hinderence in performance.
#227694 X Men Origins: Wolverine
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 05:54 PM in Off Topic
Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going coating my skeleton with admantium. Now where's my cheque book.....
#227696 My Brute
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 06:07 PM in Off Topic
#227703 Foamtalk: A Nerf Podcast
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 06:54 PM in General Nerf
I'd recommend some segments on the origins of nerf in select parts of the country/world, with different guests, and segments on basic how-to's of playing nerf (I could go into detail involving things like basic strategies, how to move in situations, etc, but that would be releasing too much of my secret nerfy knowledge).
This I can help with. I've been doing some research into British Nerf history and results have been interesting.
#227709 X Men Origins: Wolverine
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 07:06 PM in Off Topic
The effects on his claws seemed... off, and they seemed really short too.
The two best characters, Gambit, and Deadpool (Ryan Reynolds, not zombie deadpool) got less screen time then Venom did in Spider-Man 3.
The Adamantium bullets thing was excruciatingly stupid.
On the other hand, Sabertooth was a HUGE step up from the neanderthal version we had in X-Men 1.
So, meh. It was ok.
I agree with most points, except the claws. I thought they were the right length, more to scale. My homemades are about the same length, as they measure from the same distance as my fore arm. That way they look like they might actually fit inside my arm. Some of the effects were poorly done thought.
#227720 Minimized Crossfire + Mod
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 08:04 PM in Modifications
My dad cut his hand when he was a kid, that's why I cant use a hand sawHow old are you that your parents can't trust you with at least a hand saw?Dad thinks ill cut my hand off without supervision and help. The only other person up then was my 3 year old brotherBOLT CUTTERS? It's called a hacksaw which works better and has been around longer allowing better revision on the blades.
Or
What did you do wrong making your parents not trust you?
So because your dad was an idiot, YOU'RE not allowed to use tools?
Oh dear god.
My dad did allsorts of stupid things with tools in his life, from childhood and has had more accidents that I care to mention. He stills lets me use tools. Is he worried you won't hurt yourself, therefore proving yourself smarter?
#227722 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 08:08 PM in Off Topic
#227749 Question With Nitefinder
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 02 May 2009 - 09:48 PM in Modifications
Hello
Today I went to target, bought a nitefinder, opened it up, and modded it just like uin13 did in this VIDEO The only thing I didn't do is add the cpvc. He says he's getting 80ft flat and 100ft angled with his stefans. With a perfect CDTD i shot and am only getting 55ft flat. Do you think its just my darts, or do you think uin13 is talking BS. Comment and tell me what you think.
Thanks
Two questions:
1. Stock barrel?
2. Have you tried it with stefans?
This may probably affect range.
#227805 My Homemade Battle Stop-sign
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 03 May 2009 - 12:28 AM in Off Topic
PVC + Foam + duck tape = thick.
It's a foam weapon made for foam battles.
If you want something thin, I'd suggest you stay away from such battles, because they can potentially hurt... A lot...
Consider this: I made a Ka-Bar of duck tape and a bent hanger. Some cardboard in it, too. I was sheathing it, and in doing so, the tip, which had exposed itself through the duck tape (And was the point where I had cut it with some bolt cutters) went and lacerated my side. God, that hurt like a bitch.
So, the moral is, more padding more better.
Fair Point. I'm a battle re-enactor, so swinging swords at each other is a standard and I'm used to more 'realistic' weapons. Lots of fun. But I'm also used to a bit of pain.
Love your work Yazzeh.
#227939 Switchshot Ex-3
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 03 May 2009 - 05:29 PM in Modifications
You can use a toilet paper holder spring and use both at the same time, it adds about 40 feet to ranges.
40' extra range?? I highly doubt that... Is that angled or flat?
Thrown.
Nice mod. Clear and concise.
#227974 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 03 May 2009 - 07:31 PM in Modifications
Top one's mine, the other two now belong to my fiancee's little brother
#228617 The Xbow And Lnl Debate
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 06 May 2009 - 05:43 PM in General Nerf
Yes, they are simple, and yes they appear comfortable, but that doesn't mean I'm going to pay stupid prices for two pieces of plastic. Even if I did, I'd never use them. In most of my wars, my fellow combatants only carry Tommy 20, or other useless shite. If I showed up with a xbow and LnL, they'd all go home.
This is the reason I stick with my LS and Recon. They are all I want from my blaster. comfy and useable. And cheap.
#228644 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 06 May 2009 - 07:01 PM in General Nerf
How are we gonna make this thing accept stefans like we did with an LS clip?
With great difficulty.
I get pics up when mine comes in July. Yeah, I pre-ordered it.
#228688 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 06 May 2009 - 08:31 PM in Modifications
My mere's Leg Winchester.
The paint now finished and protected.
#228827 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 07 May 2009 - 05:12 PM in Modifications
#229080 Guide To Glues
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 08 May 2009 - 07:39 PM in General Nerf
Nothing works well on brass. The only way to attach brass to anything is the TIG weld it to copper, solder it to brass or copper, or braze two brass parts together.Also a note on JB Weld, it does NOT bond to brass well, works great on plastics, bad on brass.
I've found that Arraldite works well on brass. Well, plastic to brass to be precise.
#229134 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 09 May 2009 - 12:11 AM in General Nerf
As I don't see much hope for range on this blaster, I don't see the need to worry about using short stefans in it. Just use stefans the same si
Moving on, I tend to wonder what sort of device one would attach to the upper mounting points in tandem. This has been brought up, but it has never been fully answered. Some say new accessories. I ask, what sorts of accessories would be mounted in tandem like that?
You know, that is a good question. Multiple scopes? Two Titans? There really isn't anything in the current production line that could make you of two rails. The only logical answer is new accessories.
It could also be personal preferance. I know a few people who use additions on their recon barrels, rather than the slide. The other reason for this is its easier to reload the recon this way. But you never know.
#229383 A Modified Maverick For My Son
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 03:05 PM in Modifications
Linkage:
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=7150
Hope this helps.
#229396 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 03:45 PM in General Nerf
Don't know if anyone knows this but the release of the Raider CS-35 is supposed to be 07/31/09. I got this information from Linkage I can't wait.
You do know that's a UK website and release date right? They won't ship to the US.
You yanks should be getting it earlier. That's where I preordered mine from.
#229440 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 06:32 PM in General Nerf
To rephrase - You AMERICANS will get it either the same time, or maybe a bit early.
And Schizo, I agree with your stock comment. I will be throwing it in my box of bits as soon as it arrives.
#229442 Modular Longshot.
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 06:38 PM in Modifications
I do have one question. What paint did you use?
#229447 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 06:57 PM in General Nerf
Hey, don't blame me. I assumed that's what you colloquially known as. My apologies if it's not so.
No blame, I was explaining. What you said wasn't rude or anything.
That's alright then.
Back on topic - The paint scheme.
Does anyone think they will actually make the digital camo properly? Or am I gonna have to paint it on?
Also, I wonder if they might do a red and black one, like the new recon (ps - can someone please post a pic of that please!)
#229454 Modular Longshot.
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 07:21 PM in Modifications
As I've said before my friend, I like this alot.
I do have one question. What paint did you use?
Krylon indoor/outdoor Italian Olive with satin finish, Krylon fusion black with Satin Finish, and Krylon hammered texture black for the barrel, magazine, trigger, charging handles (made with soda bottle caps), and other "supposed-to-be-bare-metal" parts.
All spray paints. For touch up work, I spray a hefty amount of the pain into a jar or small bottle.
For some of the other guns I use metallic sharpies or paint pens for detail work.
I wish I had the patience to go the hand painting route, unfortunately I do not.
You'll learn in due time. Try it on your scout and see how it goes. Start small and work up, see what happens. I started with my LS, but thats because I'm used to models.
#229473 New Raider CS-35 Speculation Thread
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 08:00 PM in General Nerf
The "digi-camo" just looks like they made random squares on the shell have a rougher texture. You can see it in a few pictures people have posted.That's alright then.
Back on topic - The paint scheme.
Does anyone think they will actually make the digital camo properly? Or am I gonna have to paint it on?
Also, I wonder if they might do a red and black one, like the new recon (ps - can someone please post a pic of that please!)
And don't worry, nobody besides that guy cares if you say yanks.
EDIT- check pics 7&8 in the first post to see what I'm talking about.
I wondering if it's like that because it may be the prototype. The one for the shows that isn't quite finished?
The possibilities....
#229497 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 09:58 PM in Modifications
Thanks I will definitely look into that because the end result looks ridiculously good.
Just heed my warning - A good finish follows a hefty price tag. These paints are NOT cheap. Only buy them if you really want them.
#229499 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 10:15 PM in Modifications
Well, I checked out the website and saw that the price for one unit of 12mL is $3.50 so I was wondering how far does 12mL usually get you.
1 pot of catachan green went into the LS, scout and a recon (gun only), if memory serves me correctly.
#229505 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 10:28 PM in Modifications
The pots are a pretty decent price then. It's the Chaos Black and varnish that might be too expensive. I think i might pick one of my better guns to do this to and see the results in person based on my ability which is sure to come out lesser than yours. Then I will weigh whether it's worth it or not.
NO NO NO! Start small. Smaller surface area = less paint = less money spent. Also practice on an older blaster. Make sure you get your technique right.
#229509 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 10:42 PM in Modifications
Actually I meant I was going to test it on some extra shells and do my final on a working blaster. However, after what you said you're right it would make more sense to do my best blasters last. I will most likely put my next paycheck towards some of these paints and in a couple of weeks or a month I will let you know how it came out.
Good lad. Good luck and happy painting.
#229519 Human Vs. Zombie Help
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 10 May 2009 - 11:31 PM in Nerf Wars
1. Someone with something long range. Set him up behind the main group. He can pick zombies off if they get too close and you can't shoot them.
2. Everyone else armed with mid range, high ROF weapons - low mod LS and recons. Attack in waves so there's time to reload.
3. Keep moving, and don't bunch up.
#230046 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 13 May 2009 - 05:25 PM in Modifications
What has been your experience with the effect of sweat on the paint? With the exception of Vinyl Dye or Coating I have experienced stickiness and even had the paint rub off over very little time. I expect that your multiple layers of varnish help prevent deterioration, but do you still have a problem with stickiness? Thanks.
I can't say I have had experience with that. So far that is. My paint usually dries quickly and with a smooth finish, no stickiness. A layer on varnish after anf its still the same.
#230049 Modification and Paintjob Pictures
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 13 May 2009 - 05:42 PM in Modifications
Updated Mere's Leg
#230185 Brit's Paint Tutorial
Posted by BritNerfMogul on 14 May 2009 - 04:16 PM in Modifications
I wasn't as clear as I should have been so I will clarify. When you use your blaster in a war does it get sticky around the grip as a result of contact between your hand and the paint? Thanks.
Not so far. Although, I wear fingerless gloves, so I've no idea. I may do a war without and see what happens.
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