Flight is booked and sleeping arrangements are confirmed. I'll be in attendance. I'll see you nerds on the field!

- All blasters are legal

I'm totally bringing a singled Titan for long range precision shots. LOLOL jokes.

1) I can't think of a bigger copout for a modifications contest than to buy a kit. We all know he can do better, so why not actually do it?
2) It is more of an insult than an entry.
3) Also, I don't believe anyone about affiliations anymore
4) why would I waste my time watching youtube videos about painting shit instead of doing something productive?

1) Because garbage-tier modifications don't even podium is superior contests.
2) trololol
3) You clearly know very little about online affiliate programs. I do not get a kickback from Worker sales on Taobao. #illuminati
4) Yeah, because trolling around a forum for an obscure hobby is SO productive in comparison to watching YouTube videos about it.

Draconis, they do sell a product to help butthurt dudes that troll the interwebz tearing everyone down in order to make their pathetic excuse of a life more bearable. HYPERLINK WIZARDRY

Since the Strayven is too awesome for these mod contests, I bumped it down a notch for the superiors here on NH.

Retaliator Modification Write-up

Supreme HvZ Retaliator Modifications: A Tutorial

What’s up, nerds? I’m here to teach you how to complete a quick and easy HvZ-style blaster modification for the Nerf Retaliator. As everyone that actually plays nerf knows, Stryfes are the master-race of Nerf guns and anything but a flywheel blaster is second tier. But there are some nerfers out there that don’t want to hassle with the soldering, buying upgraded batteries, or are bothered by the loud noise of an upgraded flywheel Nerf gun. Fine, live in 2009 with your spring propulsion. But while you’re back in 2009, this tutorial will show you how to make your superior-tier Retaliator into something that can at least compete with an upgraded Stryfe.

Tools Needed
- Screw driver, phillips
- Needle-nosed pliers
- Pliers
- Blade – Xacto blade, pocket knife, or sharpened unicorn horn will work
- Bandsaw – can be substituted with Dremel + cutting wheel or hacksaw

Materials Needed
- Nerf Retaliator (available through any number of Nerf retailers. Blue Elite version shown, but this mod will work with the XD or any other version)
- Worker pump kit for the Nerf Retaliator (can be found on Taobao. For the purposes of keeping this tutorial up-to-date, here is a link to the searched term ‘worker nerf’ so you can find a seller that offers these pump grips: HYPERLINK WIZARDRY)
- Worker stock (can be found on Taobao. For the purposes of keeping this tutorial up-to-date, here is a link to the searched term ‘worker nerf’ so you can find a seller that offers these pump grips: HYPERLINK WIZARDRY)
- Upgraded Retaliator primary and catch springs (can be found from many mod companies or hardware stores if you get lucky. OMW offers springs HERE)
- JB Weld (available at any hardware store)

Retaliator




Open it up.


You can start by removing these two white pieces of plastic. They restrict the magazine release and the trigger.




Next, remove this screw. This will release the slide from the shell.


Bust out the Worker pump kit for the Nerf Retaliator.


Get the small brass colored piece (from the pump kit) and push it into the Retaliator’s boltsled. This piece is what the pump kit attaches to from the outside. The small ridges in the piece create a friction hold inside the existing boltsled holes.


Using pliers is a pretty easy way to ensure a snug fit.


Now bust out the upgraded springs. If you upgrade the primary spring (which increases power/velocity) I would highly recommend upgrading the catch spring as well. If you have too weak a catch spring in relation to your primary spring, the catch may disengage “on its own” and when your finger is not on the trigger. Not cooh.


Reassemble the internals while omitting the two locks we removed earlier and the external slide. The springs should also be replaced by this stage.


Close shell.


This is the piece that connects to the pump grip. It will all make sense as you read further. The answers shall come in time, young Padawan.


Next, we must modify the Retaliator barrel extension to allow the use of the pump kit. The pump itself rides along the existing N-strike rail, which is part of the reason it is so smooth to operate.


But the N-strike rail has a small obstacle that must be removed in order for the pump grip to have full travel.


Get pliers, a dremel, or some other wizardry and remove the notch from both sides of the barrel extension.


I think it’s helpful to remove the bulk of the plastic with pliers and clean up the remaining bits with a knife. An Xacto blade would be great here, or just a well-maintained pocket knife.


Install the grip arms onto the grip using the included hardware and Allen wrench.


Bam, completed.


Slide the pump grip onto the barrel extension’s N-strike rail.


Install the two final screws (one on each side) to connect the pump arms to the brass colored pieces we installed earlier.


For added comfort and ergonomics, I definitely recommend installing the vertical grip that is included with the kit. The metal pump grip is fairly small and a bit tricky to grip alone. The vertical grip will ensure you can go supah fast.


Bam, now you can fire from the hip all day every day, slayin’ zambies left and right. Maybe you’re thinking, “But Coop, I need to attach my tacti-cool scope or I won’t be able to aim! Where did the top rail go?!”


We can fix that by cutting down the priming handle. I used a bandsaw but you can use a dremel or even a hacksaw. Just ensure you take enough material off to allow the pump arms to clear the blaster body.


Chopped!


Mix up some JB weld...


And slather it on to the Retaliator shell. I chose to only put the adhesive on the right half of the shell, which allows me to unscrew the left side of the priming handle to access all of the main body screws. Because this part isn’t really load-bearing (unless you have a 5lbs. optic, lolol) it’s really not a big deal to only have adhesive on half.


You can put the rail further forward to mimic the Retaliator’s traditional appearance, but I decided to move it back a bit to ensure the access door can still open.


Bam, now you can slay zambies with your hardcore, supah leet tacti-cool scopes attached! But what about more comfort?


The best stock on the market right now is the Lightning Storm stock in the Hasbro water-gun line. This item is a knock-off of that product made by the company Worker. Perhaps it is a patent infringement... but China aint got no time for dat.


Bam, done. Now you can shoot further, faster, and more comfortably than in stock form. And the amount of time and skill for these modifications is very low.


And if you prefer different colors, the grip also looks supah cool on the XD white Retaliator.



The goal of this tutorial is to instruct the new modders how to build a battle-practical spring blaster if they don’t want to use a Stryfe. Some tutorials in previous mod contests didn’t even podium because they were too hardcore and way outside the reach of the superior community. So this tutorial features modifications that practically anyone can do.

"All you did was buy stuff and install it onto the blaster. That wasn't even a mod!"
Yeah, I know. The days of tinkering with your toys at home without a material cost and wrecking everyone at your wars are over. Taking out the AR's is a waste of time and the best way to increase power in a spring blaster is by replacing the spring. If you want a more cosmetically appealing mod that wrecks zambies, build a Strayven and call it a day. But garbage mods like a Strayven don't "fit the contest" so here is a tutorial on how to be successful at modding with zero skill!



- Coop

This is such a silly question. I only ever install one pump per blaster. More just seems like a waste, since you can only use one at a time.

You can pump two shafts at the same time with the right technique. It's a bit more tricky to get them both to go off at the same time, but you can still get close. If you need more advice on the two shaft method, I think Matt's mum can answer any further question - she is a total pro.

Its how many times should you pump the blaster not how many pumps to install.

No, I don't think so. You can definitely use two pumps if you wanted.

I usually pump mine until it feels right. You can sort of feel the change in pressure and just know. If something comes out of the end, you've succeeded. You can keep pumping after that, but it's usually not as good. I think the number required is going to depend on the quality of the pumps and the grip you use.

Been there done that.

That's a great looking vehicle, no doubt. But you may check your state laws before driving it around. It's illegal in many states (perhaps at the federal level, I haven't looked this particular statute up for a while) to drive around with emergency blue or red lights on a car. Especially on top of a Crown Victoria, you could be charged with impersonating a police officer - which is generally prosecuted to the full extent of the law (a felony in Florida).

Again, great costume. Just a heads up.

The blaster looks good. It's a good documentation of a shell integration for anyone interested in doing it.

I think Rapeede would be a funny name. The ending pronounced like the ending of Stampede (like a Frenchman saying Rapid) but it has the eerie similarity to 'diddled' in written form (bonus points).

Just tried. They will definitely fit into the cubby, but they're very loose and fall out if you tilt the stock quickly. Also, the slits in the side of the cubby are big enough for the discs to slide out, so the stock doesn't even have to be upside down for discs to fall out.

I don't think it's a game-practical area to store discs.

Rapidstrike
- Basic modifications


Crossbow (to be clear, the lettering is KBK not KKK)
- Replaced internals, full draw [k26] spring, LEDs, sexy air seal, shoots fucking lasers.


5 duplicate Rapidstrikes
- Replaced motors + basic internal mods


Chopped Rapidstrikes
- Replaced motors, chopped shells, plus basic internal mods


Retaliator with Roughcut
- Retaliator internals replaced with Orange Mod Works stage 1 and stage 2 kits and the Roughcut springs were replaced with Orange Mod Works upgrade springs.


Stryfe
- Basic modifications

Rapidstrike w/ Roughcut


Spectre with Triad


Scout


Rapidstrike


Rapidstrike with Strongarm. The black plate on the side is a shield for the motors because they protrude from the shell.


Stryfe with Centurion shell (lol)


Rapidstrike with two integrated Swarmfires


Rapidstrike with an integrated Roughcut. The Roughcut is raised up into the Rapidstrike's battery area and the batteries are relocated to a 4x AA tray. Gloss clear coats amplify any putty imperfections like a mother fucker, so it looks a bit sloppier than it actually is.

From my experience, I’d suggest trying out the Xtreme 180’s running on a lipo battery to get the best performance. As it’s been stated, Trustfires are not the best battery option, they’re just really easy to use and pretty low cost. However, the performance gains from the Xtreme 180 motors aren’t optimized running on Trustfires because those motors can safely use more current than the Trustfires can supply. So, if you’re limited to Trustfires, it may not be worth the tiny gain from the Xtreme 180’s considering they’re $30 after shipping. If you can buy a battery that can supply adequate current (such as a lipo), I’d definitely recommend spending the $30 on the motors.

However, there is a plateau effect with flywheels prior to the limitations we face with the dart aerodynamics. After you get the motors spinning fast enough with enough torque, you will experience dart slipping (when the flywheel surface can’t grip the dart at speed and it slips, wasting some of its energy). Because of this, I suggest looking into ways to enhance the grip of the flywheels if you go as far to use Xtreme 180’s + lipo. It’s like running a 1,000hp car on street tires - tons of wasted power since the tires (flywheels) don’t even know what to do with the power.

tl;dr
Xtreme 180’s + lipo = sex
Trustfires + stock motors = solid performance considering the cost

you guys are basically the nicest people I've met (Coop excluded).

Have we even met?

Edit: Lol, someone's a mad boar.

Of course, knowing how the prop community is about recasting, Hasbro might have some issues, but I wouldn't mind dealing with them.

If Orange Mod Works hasn't been sued yet, Ice definitely won't run into legal problems casting <150 components.

They would normally be cast in white, but the casting resin I use can be dyed in any opaque color. I can't do clear or translucent castings, as the only non-industrial clear casting material that I'm aware of wouldn't have nearly enough strength to hold a rigid shape like this. It would be the same size specs as a normal boltsled, but it would be reshaped a slight bit for more structural support, such as filling in the slots in the front half, and adding a bit more material to the slope where the L joint is.

Then count me in for at least 1 hot pink bolt sled

I would definitely buy one assuming it's made to the same size specs as the stock boltsled. It would be sweet to be able to have them dyed a custom color, too. My understanding of molding is limited, but I don't think that would be too hard for you to manage for an extra few bucks?

Crossbow


Stryfe


Roughcut

Be careful with chronographs of that nature. That hole is pretty small so you'll be limited to what blasters/projectiles you can measure with it. Even if a dart CAN fit through that hole, even a small wall graze due to inaccuracy on its way through will distort your findings. An open top chronograph would be easier.

1) The motors found in most of the Elite flywheel blasters appear to be very similar. I have noticed slight differences from blaster to blaster (for example, the Elite Rayven motors are the worst Elite motors I've seen) but they also vary from model to model (one Stryfe compared to another Stryfe) so I can't be certain if it's just variation in the motors or if each blaster model gets a different motor.

2) I can't speak for the effectiveness of the different flywheels since I haven't done substantial testing. However, I can say plasti-dipping the flywheels does help add grip. But it's only temporary. After 100ish shots, the plastidip will begin peeling off and in one case it spewed residue all over the flywheel housing.

3) If you're going to run a lipo or high current, I definitely suggest replacing the wires with low resistance wiring. The switches in stock blasters aren't rated for high current that could be drawn from replacement motors, so a Stryfe would be easiest to mod in this case (only one switch). I recently modified a Rapidstrike and ran the feeding mech on a different circuit than the flywheels to solve this problem. This allows me to use the stock switches for the firing mech (running on 2 9v batteries) but a high flow switch for the rev button which is running on a lipo (there is plenty of shell space for this replacement).

If you want to build an "ideal" flywheel blaster, I suggest looking into replacing the flywheels altogether. I think the bottle neck in upgrading will occur with flywheel/dart slipping. I've been looking into RC car wheels as an alternative to use their tacky and strong rubber surfaces in order to increase grip on the dart. I haven't found a good option, many wheels break down and spew residue everywhere after a bit of use.

The Rapidstrike uses 180 sized motor's, which are the almost the same as 130's just longer. Because of this, it's feasible to say to Rapidstrike packs more of a punch. I do not own one, so i cannot confirm nor deny.

This is incorrect. The Rapidstrike uses 130 motors, not 180. You can replace the motors with 180s but it requires cutting into the shell, just like replacing the Stryfe or Rayven motors with 180s. Also, the Rapidstrike packs no more of a punch than the other flywheel blasters as far as power/range.

Rapidstrike with an integrated Rough Cut. The Rough Cut is slamfire only.


Stockade


Elite Rayven with an integrated Rough Cut (on a Longstrike barrel). The Rough Cut is attached with screws and without any adhesive so it's removable and super clean.

Rapidstrike with two integrated Swarmfires. Streams upon streams of foam flinging up in this bitch.


Stryfe

ZombieStrike HammerShot


ZombieStrike SledgeFire


Black paint job with heavy dry brushing...lqtm

Rapidstrike


Another Rapidstrike


Supposed to look like a Bandit assault rifle from Borderlands 2


Gangbang

Fun war! The weather was great and we had some great games. Small, but still a great war to end on as far as Ohio games go.

I'll have the video edited and up later this week when I get more free time.

EDIT: I've watched most of the footage and won't be making a normal style video. The wide angle lens on my camera makes it very difficult to see far away since it was only recorded in 720p. I'll likely be editing a "hit montage" or showing things that are fun to watch or something.

The forecast suggests rain tomorrow. I thought I'd post to say I'm still going to show up no matter what. I'll definitely play in the rain, but I will not be playing outside if there is lightning.

I'll see you guys tomorrow.

I unfortunately won't be able to make this, due to prior arrangements... I do however wanted to say Coop it has been a pleasure nerfing with and against you for the past couple years you will be missed here in Ohio and if your ever in the Cincy area Don't be a stranger.

It's been a pleasure nerfing with you, as well. Good luck with your new wife!

Blood splatter paint job on a Stryfe. Inspired by Angel's The Countess


Splatter paint on a Stryfe. Definitely weird looking, but I like it.

Add me as maybe. Coop could i bring a overhauled SM1500? And can i buy some of your blasters at the war?

Assuming you didn't expand the tank, there isn't much you can do to a SM1500 to make it bannable. We only ban dick guns like plugged Big Blasts or any singled Titans.

I will have some blasters for sale at the war but the NIC community isn't my target market and don't really want to have a trunk full of those blasters. Also, I won't hold anything without full payment since I'd rather sell it long before this war.

As some people know I'm moving and this will be my last Nerf war in Ohio. I've cleaned out my apartment and have some Nerf stuff I'll be selling. Whatever doesn't sell by our lunch break will be rewards for silly actions or great shots throughout the day. Nothing I'll be giving away is of significant value - just bags of stock darts, a few magazines, and two Vortex guns.

Count me as a maybe+1-2? for this one

Glad to see you didn't quit!

would an overhauled 3K with a magstrike pump be a problem?

No, a 3K will be fine. Unless by overhauled you mean tank expanded so it shoots like a Titan, heh.

Splatter paint Strongarm




Drop clip Strongarm


Singled Big Blast

June:
[url=http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24000] 29th [OH] Columbus War 5.1[/url]

I am sorry to say that I have to change the date of the war. My flight was changed without notice and I'm unable to play on the 22nd. The war is now the 29th of June. The war date will not be modified again.

Twitch, I know this means you can't make it. This is the last date I have open to play nurf guns and would like to fling more foam prior to moving.

Also, is a shotgun coupled Titan allowed? it has 4 barrels and has the stock OPRV intact.

Yes, that is allowed. Titans are banned if they are able to fire less than 3 darts simultaneously such as the old "I promise to load more than 3 darts into my single barrel." 4 barrels is fine.

Columbus War!

This is the last chance I get to play nurf guns in Ohio with NerfHaven guys. I know it's short notice, but I want to get one last foam flinging session in prior to moving south. Hopefully we can get a decent turn out on such short notice.

When:
June 29, 2013
Show up at 9:45am. Games will start around 10:00am. We’ll probably end around 3-5pm depending on people's exhaustion.

Where:
Whetstone Park of Roses
3923 North High St.
Columbus, OH 43214

Google Maps Link

- Go in the entrance and follow the road down the slope and over a number of speed bumps. Then, when the road splits after the small bridge, turn left. Since it will be Saturday morning, there will probably be quite a few cars parked along the sides of the road. We will play somewhere in the left side grass area.


Rules:
- No participants under the age of 13.
- Eye protection is mandatory for participants under the age of 18.
- Air blasters that originally fire a projectile larger than a mega dart must have their over pressure valves unmodified.
- No shields will be allowed.
- Do not use any blasters painted all black. If you have a dark blaster, please avoid wearing camouflage clothing or too much tacti-cool gear.
- Blasters will only be banned due to safety/power issues, not because it dominates.
- Hosts will have final say on all blaster bans.


Dart Rules:
We are allowing hot glue tips and felt tips for this war. These rules may be more annoying to understand, but we want more people that come to use stefans because stock dart wars are retarded.

These dart rules are revolving around safety, not range. Our idea is to standardize the “pain” level and let people use anything they want within these perimeters. Someone will eventually find a loophole or a way around these written rules. Please note: it’s not fucking cute to do this - we’ll still just ask you to leave and never come back.

Stock darts, missiles, discs or anything else like that are allowed, obviously.

Felt pad darts:
- Weights are limited to ¼” slingshot weights or lighter. This means ¼” slingshot weights are allowed under a felt pad.
- Felt pads must be approximately the same width as McMaster felt pads. This is only super important is you’re using heavy, hard weights. We don’t want a thin pad over a metal slingshot weight; that would hurt.
- If you kiss the felt to a flame to prevent fraying, please limit the amount you burn off in order to keep it soft.

Hot Glue Domes:
- Weights are limited to two (2) copper BB’s or lighter. I can’t accurately weigh these, so just don’t be a bitch and use super heavy weights with hot glue domes.
- ¼” slingshot weights with hot glue tips are BANNED.
- Hot glue must fully cover the weight - you cannot have exposed metal.
- You may not use washers in conjunction with hot glue. This causes exposed metal.

Tl;dr - Don’t be a douche bag, yo.


Game Types:
- Meat Grinder
- 3:15
- Defend the Core (DtC)
- Blob
- Ohio Wingman


Other Information:
- Bring a bagged lunch or money to get lunch during a designated break. We usually break around noon for an hour to eat at a nearby Wendy's (Columbus tradition)
- Be sure to bring enough darts to support yourself and your guests for the whole day
- Remember to bring water
- Are you new to NIC or Columbus Nerf? Check out our definitions of certain game types and other stuff that will help you when you arrive: http://pastebin.com/F8xELVyT - This is posted on an external site in order to reduce clutter. This thread is already supah long.


Definite:
- Coop
- Xellah
- Kid Flash
- BrokenSVT + 1-2
- Prince Valor + 1-2

Maybe:
- Ezio Nerf + 1
- Archangel24 + 1
- Paze
- LinkMT +1

Solid war. Glad to see a good turn out. That field was absolute shit with the wind, but it's good to prove once again that good attitudes can make the day enjoyable even when the wind wants to fuck our darts in the ass.

I got a few photos, but I mostly focused on video. I'll have the video uploaded in a week or so when I get time to edit through all the shitty parts.



Best Stryfe integration evar.


Ohio Nerf - that's how we roll

Elite Alpha Trooper


Retaliator


FireFly


POON - We're better than you and we know it.

There is some storms brewing for tomorrow, but if I'm honest, if you pussies wanna stay home and play minecraft and league of legends be my guest, I'll be nerfing my ass off in the rain, and in the woods near the structures with roofs.

Pshhh, bunch o' pussies playing League of Legends. What a bunch of nerds. If I puss out it will be to stay home and play Starcraft like a non-nerd.

Lol jokes. Xellah and I are showing up rain or shine. However, I'm not going to be playing if there is lightning. I'll play in the rain for sure, though. I'd love to get wet with a big group of guys.

shrub can't come since he has a paintball tournament

What a NERD!

I'm looking to trade for a Rayven and a Recon barrel extension at the war. I'll have some basic shit to trade as well as sexual favors if nothing in my trunk tickles your fancy.

As Panda said, I don't think there is a way to fight gravity without a guaranteed loss. You could use magnets, but no one knows how those things work except the Mormons.

Or lasers. You should integrate some lasers into your Nerf darts. Problem solved.

I've briefly considered the idea of homemade arrows for these products. However, I don't think it's a practical possibility simply because of the hooking system. Their foam is a really strong foam and I don't even know how it doesn't break after one shot. To replicate the strength, it would be best to use plastic but that would cause serious pain on impact and wouldn't be safe for a Nerf game.

If you're using two different materials for the head, another for a the shaft, and another for the fins, you have a high material cost and it would take about 30 minutes per arrow to make them yourself. At that point, you're almost better off getting a job at McDonalds and just buying arrows to save money (assuming your time equals money, I know there are some kids on the forums willing to spend 10 hours to save $10)

I'm not trying to shoot down your idea or anything, just stating my thoughts. I would like to see a cheap homemade variant of these arrows.