Well, the best s niper ammo IMO is still the vortex rings, but we see how well supplied *those* are. At least we can make our own streamline darts.

I've discovered you can in fact put 7 darts into the stock LS clips instead of the 6 it officially supports. Even with 7 in there though, there seems to be a lost of wasted space in the bottom of the clip taken up by the feeder platform. Makes me wonder if that could be trimmed down some to fit another dart or two.

- and that thing with the board turning s niper into loser is annoying as hell. Sombodys personal bias should not be encorced as a forum rule.

Uh, no. Coating the darts with teflon was a joke (in poor taste) reference to coating bullets in teflon which makes them armor piercing.

Coating nerf darts in teflon, assuming molten teflon did not in fact destroy the dart, would be useless as the now very slick dart would have next to no resistance in the barrel. This means no air pressure would build up behind it and your range and power (thankfully, with a teflon dart) would be crap.

On the other claw, some way to make the front half of the longshots streamline darts slicker might be a good thing. Reduced friction through that barrel would be a benefit. I still wouldnt advise teflon though

Well heres what I did for the NF. I took off the stock o ring, then began winding the teflon string where the o ring was. I ended up with 3 wraps total all wedged in there tight against one another, like a split ring keychain. The teflon forms so well there was no gaps at all, so long as you wrap it tight and cut the length right, which means cutting it when you are done wrapping and trimming as needed to get the loose end wedged in tight.

Then I took another length of the string and used my screwdriver like a rolling pin to flatten it into a thin strip and wrapped this once around the plunger head, making a second layer directly over the 3 wraps. Its easier to measure for length after you flatten the string since it will get longer as you flatten it.

Getting the plunger head into the NF cylinder was a trick because the cylinder has a kind of lip around the back. I had to work around the edge a few times using my fingernails to shove the teflon under the lip but with some patience, you can get it in there. The end result is a gasket that will not budge or bounce around like an o ring will, and forms itself to the cylinder wall.. The seal has performed very well as far as I can see and since I had to compress the second layer a bit to get it in there, I assume it will expand to form an even better seal. I have not noticed any slowdown on the plunger from this, as Pineapple pointed out teflon is wonderfully slick stuff.

I'd love to see some of the more experienced modders who already have custom barrels and the like give this a go and post some results! I'm still a modding newbie so my results probably wouldnt reflect what is really possible.

No, not for coating the darts, though that might be fun.

I'm talking about a Teflon Valve Packing Kit, ACE# 4200374. I saw it when I went hunting for O-rings. Its a 36" long string of 3/32" thick teflon that you wrap around a valve stem. I replaced the O ring in my night finder with 2 layers of this stuff and it seems to be holding an excellent seal. Has anyone else tried this?

Indeed, there is an Ace right up the street from me and I now have a #49 in my NF. It throws the streamlines from my longshot QUITE far. My only issues with Ace was that I couldnt find any sizes on the O rings. (NF uses 1", LS uses 1 3/8"), and that they dont have a good spring for the LS!

Archery sights follow this exact concept and can be found in most sporting goods stores. No sharp ends on it either!

First, I dont care how it performs, SPU that barrel mod looks badass.

That out of the way, Ive seen complaints about the little hole in the new streamline ammo. Has anyone tried plugging the hole? Maybe with some model cement, the ones with the tiny tubes for precise application? This could even be done after pushing a fishing weight or somn through the hole, though centering it would be a pain.

Someone earlier in the thread mentioned a rifled barrel. Help the newb here, isnt the stock barrel already rifled?

Anyway, Ive got mine sitting open right now, gonna go score at least another Oring, maybe a new spring for it.

A suggestion to anyone poking around inside this thing... lube goes everywhere, and this is normally a good thing but it would be a good idea to wipe the plunger endcap and plunger catch free of ulbe while reassembling it. This might help some of the reported problems on the gun not being able to hold a cock.

Sure enough, pulled the Etape off and my range went up a fair bit. Now I just gotta score myself a few O-rings and a better spring. Can someone advise what kind of spring to look for?

And for the record, the plunger is not slowed down in the slightest by the airtight seals along the barrel splits, any more than it would be by the airtight seal you get when you glue on a PVC barrel. My problem was a bad plunger seal against the pressure cylinder. Thanks Bluecrash!

I doubt its a slowdown issue, as the plunger now snaps into place instantly (at least to the human eye) and much, MUCH faster than before I took out the air restrictors.

One thing I do notice on that list of posts and pics... The middle air restrictor, the one with an inner ring and an outer ring, in the pics the niner ring has been hollowed out, but is left in there. On my gun, I clipped out the inner ring entirely and cleaned the inside of the outer ring flush. I dont see how this would make a difference as that inner ring doesnt seem to affect airflow much either way but someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I suspect its my plunger seal, which I will tear apart and redo with a bit more Etape. but keep the ideas coming!

I did not use plumbers goop on the old NF. It was an idea I got from a nerf forum, not this one, that making airtight seals between the various bits of barrel would improve air pressure behind the dart. the theory was sound so I decided to give it a go.

I no logner have a dremel but just cant stand air restrictors. I drilled mine out with the head of a phillips screwdriver, then took a flathead scredriver and carefully chiselled out the rest of the restrictor. works fine

Yeah spring replacement is simple. The #49 spring, I have found is the best over all choice. It is slightly bigger than the stock spring, but not so much that it is hard to put the gun back together. It's a step above the old version NF spring, which means its two steps above the EX-3 spring. Adding a second o-ring is also a good choice.

what is a #49 spring? a part#? Gauge of wire? And where do I buy one?
Likewise, where does one find O-rings in the proper size?

I'm a nerf newbie, havent done any wars, only modded 2 NFs so far. My old NF (blue model) was getting about 50' (eyeballed, not measured) after pulling the air restrictors. My new gray/green NF has not fared so well. I carved out the air restrictors, glued the barrel back together with plumbers goop for that airtight seal, wrapped the plunger head in Etape and am using a bit of veggie oil as plunger lube. All this and I'm getting maybe 10' distance, seemingly worse than stock! Are the new model NFs just crap or did I bork something?

Also, what material would people here advise for a barrel on *this* gun, being a small springer? I've never done a barrel mod before but from what Ive read around the forums I'm thinking crayola/PVC nested?