Looks nice, thanks for the internals view. The cage looks different, do you think it would accept modding cages like the worker, organge, snickers metal cages?

Thanks for the detailed write-up!

I can get 16mm PCV here, which fits the elite darts well - most of the time. Just can't get any brass to use for re-barreling that is a good fit. Will have to see which of the stores you listed are nearby and try if I get lucky.

Für the Blasters I think I will order them to the hotel and tell the hotel that a shipment might arrive even before I do

They don't take Mastercard (or any credit card or paypal) at Buzzbee, I checked. Could see that I get travelers checks, yes :-D

Put some slits into the shell, so sound can spread better?

Adding a little weight (hot melt glue) to the inside of the flywheels makes them (more) unbalanced and louder but will put stress on the motors.

Maybe add something to the flywheels that generates sound? https://de.wikipedia...ericho-Trompete;-)

Hi folks,

I am putting this one here, because I don't want to buy / sell on the NH Marketplace, but ask for advise on shopping in the USA.

I will do several short trips (work related) during April and would like to get some stuff for my hobby.

Things I am most looking for:

- Brass tube 1/2" with a good dart fit for Elite / Koosh 3rd

- Buzzbee Boss (or Tyrant) and 12 round Magazines / refills http://www.buzzbeeto...efill clip.html

- Buzzbee Mini Marshmallow attack ;-)

Can anybody suggest a shop to go to (in Detroit area)? I won't have much time.

My backup-plan for the blasters / Magazines is ordering them to be delivered to the hotel via amazon.com

Also I need a replacement belt for my Overlord - a buddy ran his car over mine :-( - I was told to mail a check in US$, which I can't get from my Bank at home. Can someone just walk into a Bank in the US, give them 20$ in cash or by MasterCard and get a check that I can send by mail?

Thanks for the Details in this write up!

Do you think it's possible to do the same 180° turn of the front part with the "Boss", or is it too tightly packed with internals?

There does not seem to be too much of a difference?

Hi!

I did a very similar thing to my rough cut (seal improvement, spring replacement, sealing the upper barrel holes, your 2x4 conversion, attaching an adapter to fit it under a buzzbee brute). Your 2x4 is working nice, i just cut smaller connections. I can half-pull for 2 at a time, full pull or even slamfire it all in under a second.

Whats your latest on the speedloader? Would it work, if you cut the middle and one side with a knife so you could "rip it off" to the side?

Like: plug, rip, done?

Yes, the Lightning Blitz (marketed here as hurricane) is impossible to get, basically it resembles what I am trying to build with 3 barrels and a Mega Bigshock. I also tried to get some Hornet AS 6 (they are quite cheap on ebay, but only available in the US), this is not an option, shipping is more expensive than the blasters themselves (unless some on USA territory would mail them to me economy?).

The absolver Design is close to what I am doing right now...

Thumbs up for modding a blaster under your financial circumstances. I would have been to afraid to break it.

How does this mod shoot 3 darts at once? one plunger -> pushes one dart?

The plunger on my Bigshock seems to be a lot bigger (somewhat longer and about 1/4 thicker, meaning a lot more volume) compared to the tirad side-by-side and my idea was bigger plunger -> more displaced air by (mod) spring -> more pushing the darts. Just a side by side look, didn't measure it.

The Triad Air restrictor is not complicated to understand, I was wonderin how to disable it without creating too much dead space. Each volume of space that is not part of the plunger or barrel will make the blaster loose power on the way, because all this "dead air space" has to get compressed, too? Easiest mod would be removing Triad AR completely and gluing on a new back-plate, but that would be a lot worse... this is why I asked, how he disabled it.

Will cut&glue the pvc and aluminium barrels today, will keep you updated on how I connected them.

Thank you for the feedback on modifying the triad. I got myself some stainless steel and some PVC barrel and will glue 3 of them together (triad configuration) and fit them as replacement for the original mega-barrel on a BigShock. I am counting on more plunger volume and less dead space (no AR system) to give it a little better performance. Will keep you updated on my progress...

How did you disable the smart AR? Drill it out?

Isn't buying pumps to get a box for your darts kind of expensive? I was told that Darts fit old army 7.62mm Ammunition Boxes perfectly. Used boxes are available on eBay, but I have not given it a try yet.

Thanks for the good "inside" view as well as for this ammo idea

Do you think any flywheel-blaster could be turned into this kind of ball throwing machine by adjusting the flywheels?

A good rule of thumb is Amperage divided by 10 is minimum diameter for cable. If you got a Lipo and motors that draw 10 amps, thats 1mm² cable (AWG 17 oder AWG 18?).

As said above, Silicon cable with twisted strands (Litze) is a lot more flexible, would recommend using that for the inside or blasters/modding.

Most PVC over here seems to be in millimeters, but some is not, I think tubing for your aquarium and stuff like that seems to be non-metric some of the time.

Can't separate the 3 barrels from my triad, will therefore glue 3 pieces of PVC and try to come up with some kind of adapter from 3x16 mm (roughly 34mm) to the 20mm(?) or a mega barrel...

Any ideas on the adapter?

As far as I understood our gun law: up to 0.5J projectile Energy it's a toy (and all local Nerf guns stick to it, we have reduced power mega-blasters and the nerf rival line will not come to our market at all because of too high energy). A 1.5g Foam Dart at 85 fps exceeds 0.5J. From 0.5 to 7.5J it is an age 18+ free "sports weapon" wich has to be tested, certified, etc. this category is not allowed to shoot full-auto and you are not allowed to tinker with it yourself. This is further complicated by definition like "does not store kinetic energy" (Bow = Sports, Toy) and "does store kinetic Energy" (Crossbow = Gun)...

To be on the save side I would have to build a single shot (multi projectile) weapon with a projectile energy of less than 0.5J. I have no way of measuring that and as I said above, I lack most of the tools for home-made stuff.

I could get one of the airtank Nerf guns and put more barrels / more projectiles into it I guess... everything bigger or home made is likely to exceed 0.5J.

As a short summary of our private conversation (due to post/day limits on my side), for the benefit of everyone else that might try this:

The board / timer switch you linked should work pretty well. You have to connect a trigger to one side of the board and the circuit driving the motors to the other connectors. You can set the time the switch keeps running by a set of pins and jumpers (like on a PC mainboard). It's not well documented, so I can't tell you which pins/jumpers to set for a 3 second burst.

It may work full-auto too, if you keep pushing the switch, it will keep starting the timer over and over and when you release it, it will fire one final burst.

Good luck with the mod, let us know how it turned out!

Hi again and thank you for the amount of feedback! I will answer this in one reply (and later than I intended), because I am still limited to 3 posts a day...

You mught as well make a small homemade that has a Nitefinder size plunger, and one barrel that has 3 darts.

Will it shoot all 3 darts at once, in a spread?

geting an airgun tank and making an absolver is a much better option than a messenger or a Triad...

Whats that absolver Design people are referring to?

Aeromech made an amazing design called the Parisite use that

I have seen that one. My main trouble with home-made is, I would have to convert all materials to metric and that I do not have the drills needed to drill holes or put screw threads in or on pieces of PVC or ABS. Also I do not know what People will say if it looks "home-made" in a war or hvz game.

Airtanks (with compressed air, anything more powerful than the pump-it-up Nerfs) are a different category, controlled under gun law and you need to be licensed to mod any of these. No way I could use something like an airsoft gun and Put Nerf Barrels onto it...

Will post an update if I get anything worked out

Thank you for that detailed view! I had a difficult time to find any information at all because of the "other" Hyperfire

So this is basically a flywheelblaster (it sounded a lot more quiet in those first toy fair videos) with a feeding belt instead of a pusher? should be easy to tune :-D

What does that fancy resistor setup do at the flywheel cage?

I am in the first stage of creating a shotgun backup blaster.

I want to shoot 2 or 3 darts at a time from a quick draw backup to defend myself while reloading. Rough-Cut and Sledge-Fire provide that kind of firepower but are way too bulky for that.

My idea is to mod a Triad - or Rebelle Messenger or Rebelle Triology (90 ft range wtf?!) - basically a 3-shot smart-barrel blaster.

I read that people accidentialy turned their blaster into a "shotgun pistol" that "sucked" by messing up the smart barrel system. However, the System does - from what I have seen in concept drawings not to be that easy to "mess up properly" and I found no claims of performance.

If I understand it right, 3 small posts at the end of the barrel push down the lid to allow air to rush into the loaded barrel and at the same time close a valve, restricting the airflow to the consecutive barrels. After the dart is fired, the barrel seals itself and opens the airflow to reach the next barrel.

Question 1:

What would I have to do to allow maximum airflow? If I drill a hole in the barrel sealing lids or rip them out, I will have a single shot blaster, because the valve restricts air to barrel 2 and 3 that will not fire the second shot, because barrel 1 is open. Is there a smart or easy way to accomplish what I want to do? If I empty out all the moving parts, there will be a lot of "dead space" and I have a good chance of damaging it. So, what did you do to get a "shotgun" pistol?

Question 3:

The performance shouldn't be that bad? with a good seal, lubrication, spring-replacement... the recommended Triad spring replacement claims +60% range. A rough estimation would be 1/3 range (because it shoots 3 darts) * 1,6 (for the better spring)? That leaves a 75ft blaster with 40ft of range, quite enough if someone comes around your cover and a very high chance of hitting with a spread of 3 darts (like the sledge-fire), right?

If you help my struggling brain on question 1 and question 2 isn't utter nonsense, then I will do this mod and upload images / results here :-D

Here is a very cheap and not very adjustable one on ebay.com: http://www.ebay.com/...y-/272088560028

You can build one with an IC (plans for a 300ms to 10h adjustable one): http://www.electrosc...rs-timer-relay/

Or you can build a very simple analoge circuit, you could even integrate that "free floating" without mounting it on a board: http://www.homemade-...-explained.htmlwhen putting an adjustable Resistor in, you can adjust the time.

Good luck with your project!

P.S.:

Uh, sorry... guess it was to late in the night and I was to tired to realize "want to buy german engineering" does not equal "is willing to learn german to buy components" It was just the first website I found an adjustable switch on with the (german) search terms I used. I apologize!

Thanks for your quick reply :-D

The switches I use are rated for 5A 250V AC and never get warm.

Good to know, I will go with the 3A 25V DC switches.

1000mah is more than enough for the brute, the basic calculation is ~1 shot per mah.

I did a full retire and minimized my brute as well.

O.k. 800 or 1000 it is. Will see what size Lipo I can fit into the gun, will put a Lipo Volt-Warner in there, too. Where did you put the Lipo in your minimized version? The grip is obviously not the place to put it, it's tiny. Above the Magazine Slot or under the flywheels where the blue handgrip is could work?

EDIT: If I do something new / different, should I document it in your thread or open a new Buzz Bee Brute thread?

There is adjustable short time switches, this one can be set from 2 seconds to 5 minutes and will stay on for the set time when triggered once: https://www.kemo-ele...-Sek-5-Min-.php

You could use something cheap like this or build your own one cheap to have like a 500ms to 10s "on time"... Trigger it with your burst" switch and adjust the "on-time" 2 seconds, 3 seconds, I don't know to give you a 3 round or 5 round burst, switching off automatically after that. Sometimes there is cheaper solutions than putting a whole Laptop Computer inside

This is a 'which gun is best' type thread, as per the New Members Guide.  You have to put some thought into it and make your own decision. 

That having been said, I think you answered your own question.  The rough cut and sledgefire are too bulky to carry around as a backup and fire one-handed. 

Hi there,

I want a backup / secondary that I can just draw, point, hit quickly with in case something is wrong with my primary (BuzzBee Brute autofire flywheel blaster). Preferably something I can at least get the first shot off from without using both hands, no time delay speeding up anything electrical. Shooting several dars shotgun style so I don't have to try to aim too much in a quick-draw / quick shot situation.

The following things come to mind:

Option A:

Nerf Rough Cut, maybe modded to shoot 2x4 instead of 4x2? Quite bulky thing, but you can keep it primed, fire 4 darts (what's the range with a tuning spring on that?) and get your hands free and fire again.

Option B:

Nerf Sledgefire (shortened?). One shot, 3 darts, can keep it primed. As bulky as the Rough Cut. Reloads faster but no 2nd shot. Is the range better / worse than the Rough Cut? Had quite some fun with it when I borrowed one.

Option C:

Nerf triad shotgun Mod? Both of the above guns are huge and thinking of the short to medium range scenario, shooting multiple darts from a primed, small gun, the triad comes to mind. Obviously people turn it into a "shotgun pistol" by accident. What if you do it intentionally? Put in a better spring, make all 4 barrels shoot synchronized. Triad = small Rough Cut?

I do not own a Triad (yet), but what are your opinions on Option C? What is the performance with a stock spring if you (accidentially) turn your Triad into a shotgun? For the size and prize of a rough cut or sledge fire you can keep 2-3 of these in your pockets?

Thanks for your ideas :-D

Hi there,

I just got my BuzzBee "Brute" (maketed - quite confusing me as Ultra Tek Auto Tek 10 over here) and plan to do quite exactly the modifications you did:

Intend to replace the Cables with 1mm² (17 awg?), put in a small 2S1P Lipo for a little more Volts but a lot more current to have it spin up faster and keep the speed a little better in Full auto. Maybe shorten the over all rifle a little too, the shoulder thing is useless anyway. Not planning to do anything "insane" like 3S and replacement motors + metal flywheels... I want to be able to use it in Nerfwars, not win an actual war with it.

There is however one big question troubeling me: Switches! This kind of Lipo can supply something like 10A of current and the motors seem to be able to draw that kind of current, too? The wire can handle it, but what about switches? Th highest rated microswitches I can find are 25V 3A rated. (Yes, there are 10A microswitches out there but for 250V AC, a totally different thing). Do you think the stock switches can handle the current? Would the 3A switches be sufficient because you only use them for a short time? What switches do you use with your 2S lipo and do they turn warm?

How long can you run the Brute on 2S lipo with 800 or 1000 mAh? Is it enough power for some hours of nerf war?

Thanks a lot!