Personally, I'd go with the following setup:

1. Someone with something long range. Set him up behind the main group. He can pick zombies off if they get too close and you can't shoot them.
2. Everyone else armed with mid range, high ROF weapons - low mod LS and recons. Attack in waves so there's time to reload.
3. Keep moving, and don't bunch up.

Actually I meant I was going to test it on some extra shells and do my final on a working blaster. However, after what you said you're right it would make more sense to do my best blasters last. I will most likely put my next paycheck towards some of these paints and in a couple of weeks or a month I will let you know how it came out.

Good lad. Good luck and happy painting.

The pots are a pretty decent price then. It's the Chaos Black and varnish that might be too expensive. I think i might pick one of my better guns to do this to and see the results in person based on my ability which is sure to come out lesser than yours. Then I will weigh whether it's worth it or not.

NO NO NO! Start small. Smaller surface area = less paint = less money spent. Also practice on an older blaster. Make sure you get your technique right.

Well, I checked out the website and saw that the price for one unit of 12mL is $3.50 so I was wondering how far does 12mL usually get you.

1 pot of catachan green went into the LS, scout and a recon (gun only), if memory serves me correctly.

Thanks I will definitely look into that because the end result looks ridiculously good.

Just heed my warning - A good finish follows a hefty price tag. These paints are NOT cheap. Only buy them if you really want them.

That's alright then.

Back on topic - The paint scheme.

Does anyone think they will actually make the digital camo properly? Or am I gonna have to paint it on?
Also, I wonder if they might do a red and black one, like the new recon (ps - can someone please post a pic of that please!)

The "digi-camo" just looks like they made random squares on the shell have a rougher texture. You can see it in a few pictures people have posted.

And don't worry, nobody besides that guy cares if you say yanks.

EDIT- check pics 7&8 in the first post to see what I'm talking about.

I wondering if it's like that because it may be the prototype. The one for the shows that isn't quite finished?
The possibilities....

As I've said before my friend, I like this alot.

I do have one question. What paint did you use?

Krylon indoor/outdoor Italian Olive with satin finish, Krylon fusion black with Satin Finish, and Krylon hammered texture black for the barrel, magazine, trigger, charging handles (made with soda bottle caps), and other "supposed-to-be-bare-metal" parts.

All spray paints. For touch up work, I spray a hefty amount of the pain into a jar or small bottle.

For some of the other guns I use metallic sharpies or paint pens for detail work.

I wish I had the patience to go the hand painting route, unfortunately I do not.

You'll learn in due time. Try it on your scout and see how it goes. Start small and work up, see what happens. I started with my LS, but thats because I'm used to models.

Hey, don't blame me. I assumed that's what you colloquially known as. My apologies if it's not so.

No blame, I was explaining. What you said wasn't rude or anything.

That's alright then.

Back on topic - The paint scheme.

Does anyone think they will actually make the digital camo properly? Or am I gonna have to paint it on?
Also, I wonder if they might do a red and black one, like the new recon (ps - can someone please post a pic of that please!)

As I've said before my friend, I like this alot.

I do have one question. What paint did you use?

Hey, don't blame me. I assumed that's what you colloquially known as. My apologies if it's not so.

To rephrase - You AMERICANS will get it either the same time, or maybe a bit early.

And Schizo, I agree with your stock comment. I will be throwing it in my box of bits as soon as it arrives.

Don't know if anyone knows this but the release of the Raider CS-35 is supposed to be 07/31/09. I got this information from Linkage I can't wait.

You do know that's a UK website and release date right? They won't ship to the US.

You yanks should be getting it earlier. That's where I preordered mine from.

Check the mod directory. This lists all mods, and just look under Maverick

Linkage:
http://nerfhaven.com...?showtopic=7150

Hope this helps.

As I don't see much hope for range on this blaster, I don't see the need to worry about using short stefans in it. Just use stefans the same si
Moving on, I tend to wonder what sort of device one would attach to the upper mounting points in tandem. This has been brought up, but it has never been fully answered. Some say new accessories. I ask, what sorts of accessories would be mounted in tandem like that?

You know, that is a good question. Multiple scopes? Two Titans? There really isn't anything in the current production line that could make you of two rails. The only logical answer is new accessories.

It could also be personal preferance. I know a few people who use additions on their recon barrels, rather than the slide. The other reason for this is its easier to reload the recon this way. But you never know.

Also a note on JB Weld, it does NOT bond to brass well, works great on plastics, bad on brass.

Nothing works well on brass. The only way to attach brass to anything is the TIG weld it to copper, solder it to brass or copper, or braze two brass parts together.

I've found that Arraldite works well on brass. Well, plastic to brass to be precise.

Captian Scottland - Citadel Paints. Available at the games workshop. They're not cheap, but they leave a good finish.

An old photo, so I'll update it when I find my camera.

My mere's Leg Winchester.



The paint now finished and protected.

How are we gonna make this thing accept stefans like we did with an LS clip?

With great difficulty.

I get pics up when mine comes in July. Yeah, I pre-ordered it.

I'm fairly new to the nerf scene, so I thought I'd throw in my opinion. I have no intention of getting or planning to get either of these blasters.

Yes, they are simple, and yes they appear comfortable, but that doesn't mean I'm going to pay stupid prices for two pieces of plastic. Even if I did, I'd never use them. In most of my wars, my fellow combatants only carry Tommy 20, or other useless shite. If I showed up with a xbow and LnL, they'd all go home.

This is the reason I stick with my LS and Recon. They are all I want from my blaster. comfy and useable. And cheap.

Comission Job.



Top one's mine, the other two now belong to my fiancee's little brother

You can use a toilet paper holder spring and use both at the same time, it adds about 40 feet to ranges.

40' extra range?? I highly doubt that... Is that angled or flat?

Thrown.

Nice mod. Clear and concise.

PVC + Foam + duck tape = thick.

It's a foam weapon made for foam battles.

If you want something thin, I'd suggest you stay away from such battles, because they can potentially hurt... A lot...

Consider this: I made a Ka-Bar of duck tape and a bent hanger. Some cardboard in it, too. I was sheathing it, and in doing so, the tip, which had exposed itself through the duck tape (And was the point where I had cut it with some bolt cutters) went and lacerated my side. God, that hurt like a bitch.

So, the moral is, more padding more better.

Fair Point. I'm a battle re-enactor, so swinging swords at each other is a standard and I'm used to more 'realistic' weapons. Lots of fun. But I'm also used to a bit of pain.

Love your work Yazzeh.

Hello

Today I went to target, bought a nitefinder, opened it up, and modded it just like uin13 did in this VIDEO The only thing I didn't do is add the cpvc. He says he's getting 80ft flat and 100ft angled with his stefans. With a perfect CDTD i shot and am only getting 55ft flat. Do you think its just my darts, or do you think uin13 is talking BS. Comment and tell me what you think.

Thanks

Two questions:
1. Stock barrel?
2. Have you tried it with stefans?

This may probably affect range.

It looks a little unwieldly, but I like it. Alot of detail and effort present. Every tried anything a little thinner? I'm a little put off by the thickness.

BOLT CUTTERS? It's called a hacksaw which works better and has been around longer allowing better revision on the blades.

Dad thinks ill cut my hand off without supervision and help. The only other person up then was my 3 year old brother

How old are you that your parents can't trust you with at least a hand saw?
Or
What did you do wrong making your parents not trust you?

My dad cut his hand when he was a kid, that's why I cant use a hand saw

So because your dad was an idiot, YOU'RE not allowed to use tools?

Oh dear god.

My dad did allsorts of stupid things with tools in his life, from childhood and has had more accidents that I care to mention. He stills lets me use tools. Is he worried you won't hurt yourself, therefore proving yourself smarter?

The effects on his claws seemed... off, and they seemed really short too.
The two best characters, Gambit, and Deadpool (Ryan Reynolds, not zombie deadpool) got less screen time then Venom did in Spider-Man 3.
The Adamantium bullets thing was excruciatingly stupid.

On the other hand, Sabertooth was a HUGE step up from the neanderthal version we had in X-Men 1.

So, meh. It was ok.

I agree with most points, except the claws. I thought they were the right length, more to scale. My homemades are about the same length, as they measure from the same distance as my fore arm. That way they look like they might actually fit inside my arm. Some of the effects were poorly done thought.

I'd recommend some segments on the origins of nerf in select parts of the country/world, with different guests, and segments on basic how-to's of playing nerf (I could go into detail involving things like basic strategies, how to move in situations, etc, but that would be releasing too much of my secret nerfy knowledge).

This I can help with. I've been doing some research into British Nerf history and results have been interesting.

http://britnerfmogul.mybrute.com

Too much sorrow and pain for my liking. Nice special effects thought.

Now if you'll excuse me, I'm going coating my skeleton with admantium. Now where's my cheque book.....

You probably should sand the gun first, so that the paint doesn't affect the moving parts of the gun.

I would if I painted the internals. Most of them are left unpainted. So far, I've had no hinderence in performance.

Thought I'd throw this up, my wooden recon stock:







By utilizing the catch off the old stock, it can still be swapped out for the original if the user desires. This is the Mark 1 version. MK. 2 has a PJ, and two 6mm sheets of wood covering the holes. Will post new pics when I've finished moving house.

I've always wanted to know what the best method for painting was, brushes or spray paint. Now I know, it is a mixture rather than the two separate. Nice work with the paint.

It's all in the technique. The spray gives an even base for you to work from, while the brushing gives you the extra control over your details.

And thanks again for the kind words.

Could you provide a link to the varnish, I have searched Games Workshop and can't find it.

Do my best. May have to come from the UK site thought -

http://www.games-wor...dId=prod1620041

My bad - It's called Purity Seal (Satin Varnish)

That's kickass. Good way to paint.
Where do you get the varnish?

It's all from the games workshop. It's satin finish.

Brit’s Paint Tutorial

This was originally posted over on the HQ, but I thought that it couldn't hurt to post it here. This was requested by several members over there and has served them well

Ok, so I said this was going to be a video, but my camera crapped out and you’ve waited long enough. What I’ve done is take pictures (as it’s all my camera would let me do) at each key stage and I’ll fill in the rest with writing. Ok? Good!
Before we start,

Disclaimers:
These techniques that I am about to show you are partly because of the paints that I use. Your paints may not have the same affect. Although, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy the same paints as me. Experiment and see what works.
Onward:

Step 1.


Firstly, strip the gun, not yourself (unless you like that). Place the shell off to one side and start on the internals. Do whatever you what to them. I just drilled the AR’s for now to save time.

Step 2.

Wipe down the blaster shell and any other parts that you are painting with a dry tissue. This removes any residue oil and dust and gives a clean surface for your paint to stick to.

Step 3.



Apply a base coat of chaos black spray to the blaster. Try not to cover the thing first time. Make slow, sweeping movements across the shell until you have an even coat. Too much paint will result in the details of the blaster being lost under layers of paint. Also, make sure that you spray in a warm atmosphere. If it isn’t warm, your paint will ‘bloom’. This is where the paint goes a funny white-grey colour. It isn’t a good thing.

Step 4.


Apply a layer of varnish. I do this between every colour just as a personal habit. I feel happier knowing that there are several layers on protection on the PJ.

Step 5.


Now you can break out the brushes. Colours can be done by ear, so go with your gut and paint what you think is right. Always paint one colour at a time, this allows you to build up the paint job and see what it feels like. Always varnish between layers. To get the flatness with the paint, I paint slowly and use a big brush with lots of paint on. I go over the same area over and over again until no brush strokes can be seen.

Step 6.

Add any details. Details for me include screw heads and drybrushing. Drybrushing is achieved by dipping an old brush (something with splayed bristles) and dipping it in your chosen paint. Then wipe most of it off until you have almost none on. Then LIGHTLY pass the brush over the shell. The brush should just touch the shell. This makes sure that the paint only hits the raised areas, making them stand out.

Step 7.


When you’re sure that you’re happy with your painting, apply one final coat of varnish. Then reassemble and VIOLA!

Also, my LS in the same style


I hope that this has helped and any questions and comments may be posted below.

If you want some 'across the pond' info, I'm more than happy to help.

The one and only reason for Tigadee's recon and LS (LS not up yet)
My Pulse Rifle


Check this trigger


And matching scout.


All my guns are going through new paint jobs and all will match the pulse rifle.

I bought an LS for $120

Hey, no one said it had to be cheap prices.

EDIT: Oh shit, didn't see the previous two necros. Sorry Cpt. Slug.