I'm most likely going to attend with a guest. I don't want to say definite because there is a small chance I'll have to work on a project for school. An address would also be great. I haven't played at either park, but I vote for the one closer to Dayton (furthest North East)

Yeah, going to second the place more North, unless it blows. I hate the 'Cinci War, but it's in Kentucky LOL', even if it's just a few more miles, it seems so much further. Those of us driving down would really like a location very soon though (even better: an address) so we can make plans on when we need to leave.

Weather for Cinci is looking fairly cold (48), but sunny and no rain. Should be a good day. Anyone in the Cinci area know of a near by Golden Corral...?

I will likely be there with +2, maybe a fourth.

The headshot game sounds a little iffy, maybe just a couple stock dart rounds?

Edit: Any decision as to the location?

I shoot a mav. You shoot a singled titan. Which bullet has more air time? The titan's dart.

You may need to wait til tomorrow for your high school physics class (at best) to cover that two objects falling from the same height (like darts fired at no angle) will hit the ground at the same time, regardless of initial velocity, because that initial velocity is all in the x direction.

Have you worked it out? 8 seconds/200 feet= 25 feet/second. 20 feet/ 0.1 second= 200 feet/second.

Sure, if you pull those times out of your ass. However, fired from the same height, they will both be in the air for the same time.

First off, Nerf guns shoot darts, not bullets. They also don't go 81 meters.


Secondly, you're trying to make a point about a 200 feet range slow moving dart, and a 20 foot fast moving one, however, with the equations you presented, the 200 foot range would have a much higher velocity. Because of this, when someone reports a 'range', they effectively tells you how fast the darts move out of the blaster. Darts don't usually float or glide, they will always spend the same amount of time in the air when fired from the same height.

I should be there, +1-2.

If anyone at OSU (I'm looking at you, Minsc) wants a ride, PM me. Unless you want to take nerf guns on the #2 Cota.

This is definitely some awesome stuff, thanks for the work so far. If you could get templates, that would be awesome, otherwise I may need to find my hole saws.

The only issue is one you addressed, it might be difficult to put into non-clear plunger tubes. Could you possibly mount the catch inside a coupler? There's a ridge in the middle that it can be lined up against, and if you place the coupler at the end of the plunger tube, it doesn't matter that one half of the coupler is 'full'. If you screwed on the coupler, instead of solvent weld, it would even be able to be removed for other blasters. (Though these seem easy to make).

Awesome work, this is going to change homemades for sure

Just as a heads up, and to get trades moving faster, I'm bringing a few things (much less than Coop):
NIB NF
Stock TTG
Plunger Tube Replaced TTG
Crossfire (AR removed)
Pulsator (I don't want to bring this home)
Modded Pistol Splat
Semi Auto 2K in a MS shell
Modded Lanard Quadshot/triple shot

See you guys there tomorrow

(...If you want to go out for lunch, you should have plenty of time to get there, eat and get back.)

You haven't seen how slow I eat. It's depressing.

My brother and I will be there with Coop, looks to be a great war. Just want to make sure, is 4501 Vance Avenue, Fort Wayne, IN the correct address? (I want to be sure googlemaps pulled the right address).

Also, Ryan, are you still coming with community darts? What barrel material do they fit? (I think I've read cpvc, but I want to be prepared).

Should be awesome, can't wait.

I'm a "maybe". I'll be riding with Hipponator if he can make it.

Barring something unforeseen, I'll be there.

Me + Coop + my bro for sure, maybe one more

Hmm...without the stock on the Raider, they appear to be about the same length. Maybe there's not as much variety as I thought.

Don't be fooled! This may be just as long as the Raider, but the magazine well is vertical instead of horiztonal! And... and... it's got a different magazine! Well, it's a drum just like the Raider... BUT it carries a different amount of darts!... Less darts. Damn. Nevermind.

The only real difference is in the pumps, the Raider's has a nice foregrip, while the Alpha has a normal shotgun grip. That and it also LOOKS different enough for all the kiddies to want to buy it also.

It's also about $12 cheaper, and the smaller drum looks much more maneuverable.

Nice write up, thanks for the info.

Edit: Also, the clip being on the bottom is a nice change

Well, I am looking just to cut off useless crap like a longshot bipod, or cut the front off of a vulcan. It sounds like the bandsaw is right for me, but does it still make pretty straight cuts?

For a longshot bipod, I would use a dremel. Same with the vulcan. Maybe a handsaw.

A bandsaw is not ideal for something like that, you would have to have several inches of exposed blade (raising the guard up) and it's just too much power for the simple cut. It will cut however straight you can slide the piece through, though.

They do different things, you should buy one based on what you require of it, rather than what you think would be best. Scroll saws are more delicate and can cut inside a shape, band saws are more rugged, but cannot make as fine of turns (without release cuts) and cannot cut inside.

These aren't exactly cheap tools, and not excellent for beginners if you have little experience with power tools and other saws. Both tend to have exposed blades with few guards to protect your fingers, and can be dangerous.

What each of them will cut depends on the blades you put on them. Look at the tpi for different blades, the packaging states what the blades are designed to cut. If cutting springs is what you're thinking about, get a wire-cutter and a hacksaw. Those will serve you fine for a fraction of the price.

Two of those dates already have wars planned in the area of Ohio. It would be best to not try to overlap and steal attendance.

On the 21, in Cinci:
It's a War . . .

And on the 28 in Fort Wayne IN (yes, it's further, but Coop and I are going, looking to be a great war)
Foam in the Fort II

I voted for the 4th

...and it has a bad seal whats wrong with it

A troubleshooting technique: remove the barrel, prime the gun, hold your palm firmly over the end, and fire. Does the plunger slow down/not move all the way? If yes, you have a dart fit problem. If no, you have a plunger/plunger seal problem.

One other problem: you have not one, but two shift keys, and a variety of punctuation keys. Please figure out when you should be using them.

Has the crapiest seal ever. Moves to the coupler so fast that it's as if im dry firing

It sounds like you knew the problem from the start...

Just fix the seal, and you should be fine. Some lubricant might do the trick if you have the standard plunger head and don't want to buy any better piece.

There's a war on the same date in Indiana, I think a fair bit of the North-of-Cinci nerfers are heading to:http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19773

Could you possibly move this one up or back a week? I would love to go to Cinci.

Also, I'm looking to trade for a Recon or a Recon shell. If you have one, please let me know at the war! I don't really want to waste money on it, but I'll have a few things there to trade.

I also need to clear my room out as much as possible so I'll be bringing all my stuff to sell/trade (trading multiple items for one, more valuable, item is still cutting down on volume). I'll have some shells and some broken/incomplete parts that I'll be giving away if anyone wants them as well.

I have a recon/shell, I'll bring it as well as a box of blasters for sale/trade.

I have a few skirts and some extra polycarbonate for sale, let me know what quantity, and I'll bring it too.

It's shaping up as a nice weekend to nerf

Edit: Maybe Valor will have enough darts to loan you some, Coop. Those slingshot weights are a bitch.

My suggestion (untested though, obviously) is to epoxy the ends of the break together enough to hold them in alignment, then Dremel a slot lengthwise right through that catch tooth, and partway into each of the broken pieces. Try to take out approximately one-third of the plastic down the middle, maybe a little less. Then fill that void with epoxy putty. When that cures, carve away any excess.

This would probably be your best bet, as you need to reinforce it as well as fix it. I would cut/scratch at your cut out channel with a knife, though, if your cut is smooth, to give the epoxy putty more to grip to. If you could put a thin layer of epoxy on top/bottom, that would help to keep the epoxy putty steady.

This is only a week away.

I should be there, with 1-3 more. Who else is in?

Don't return it, who the hell are you guys kidding? Assuming the blaster worked when you got it (if it didn't, why even bother with it, return it STOCK), and didn't work after you had tried to mod it, you fucked it up. No one (the store, hasbro, whatever) should have to pay for your mistakes but you. What if they did put it back on the shelves, the next kid is screwed over?

It's just being considerate and having some common sense. You ruined it, so deal with it. Just know what you're doing before you try to mod your next gun.



At below:

Why would they put it back on shelves? When people return things, it's usually because it's defective. Also, I think the seal to the clip is fucked up, I'll just slap a thin ring of foam on and it should be good.

Haste, mistakes, whatever, even if it's not re-shelved, someone has to pay for it. In this case, it's only defective because you messed it up. Try to fix it, but don't return it.

Very nice. The Al is certainly sturdy, though it require some specialty tools (mill), it adds a level of 'badass'. There's certainly a nice feeling in knowing that a blaster will almost never break.

Definitely an interesting idea for the guide for the pump motion, not something I had thought of when making mine.

It's always nice to see new and changing homemades, thanks.

Gah, I can't make it. I've made commitments to that Saturday not realizing the dates.

Sorry, was really looking forward to this

I'll really try to be at this one, hopefully +1-3. With the girlfriend on vacation, there won't be much to prevent me from attending.

I agree with Kane, you really do have a good sense of fun.

I have a question for college students who have moved out of their parents homes. I know parents can still pay health insurances. Does this rule apply to car insurance also? Is there anything else I should know about moving out?
Please and thank you.

I moved out, I'm still on my parents health insurance (and can be until I'm 25 or 26). I don't have a car, but I will next year. I just asked my dad, I can still be on his insurance when I'm moved out and have a car.

Does anyone know the best way to get a good, square hole drilled in the nylon rods? I'm having trouble with it and need some advice.

For a square as in centered hole, I took a block of wood, drilled a 1/2" hole with a forstner bit, which gave a smaller centered hole. Pop the nylon rod into the 1/2" hole and use the one from the tip of the forstner bit hole to center yours.

Edit: A spade bit would work too, just go slow so as not to tear out the back.

I was curious as to the date as well, but that's the same day as Badwrench's war in northern OH, http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=18647

I think BW's is fairly decently sized, it would be great if you guys from Cinci could make it up there

Maybe for now, +1-4. Could you post an actual address?

Why the ban on hopper clips? They don't seem to be a problem anywhere else.

Edit: Thanks Sooth

I'm a "maybe" at this point. I'll update at least a week out from the war.

Same deal with me. Hopefully +2-5?


Cool sig, man, cool sig...

I'll try to be there with my group.

How will the rounds be divided throughout the day? I know you enjoy 3:15, BadWrench, but how much of that will we be playing compared to other game types?

I need to know if I need to make some megas/arrows and mod a blaster or two for that, or will I be ok with just a primary and a pistol for a round or two? (I don't have stock darts)

Also, if I read it correctly, megas and arrows are ok for non primary rounds?

Seeing as how this is one big field and we don't have many boxes/tarps/whatnot, would it be best to just move this elsewhere?

Whetstone might not be a good choice because of all the soccer and crap, but Colerain is always a decent place, we didn't use the field with trees at all last time, I feel there is certainly some play left there. The playground was a little small, but using the field might be more fun.

Or, the place after it rained might be a decent option, I forget the name, but it was just a few of us there, it was muddy when we went.

Just a couple of other options because we don't seem to have the equipment required for an open field

Edit: I'm not sure if I'll be there, something might have come up

Going along with Demon Lord, is this inside? There seems to be adequate fields outside, however you say,

- Darts (stock, slug-style or similar only - no slingshot weights, no hot glue domes only)

Hot glue and BB stefans (THE standard) hardly hurt at all, as well as do a good job at capping off ranges, if that is of concern. Even fishing weight darts are fairly pain-free, especially in comparison to the heavy slingshot weight darts.

I will agree, slingshot weighted darts hurt like a hell, and playing without those is fine with me; but banning all hot glue tipped darts (If I read your post correctly) seems to go pretty far, unless we're inside. The lighter BB and 3/0 fishing weight are pretty tame, they don't leave nearly the mark of slingshot weighted darts.

I guess I'd need clarification on the dart requirements. I don't have anything but BB and 3/0 fishing weigh darts. The felt disks are too wide for some of the narrower foams (fitting cpvc), the felt is larger than the foam, causing fit to be way too tight in cpvc.

I might be there with a few others.

What's up with the no hamps rule? I didn't think they were a problem last war; I don't think we scored many, if any, hits.

Also, what is the deal with all these bizarre new games? I mod my guns to make them shoot further, I don't have anything that's "nothing added to a stock blaster"

Edit: Didn't see your stealth edit til now. The 48" hopper was a joke, I think my brother put it down quickly. We'll put them down if there's a problem with 'em. I don't mind not using it, but if there's a problem, let us know and we'll make the necessary adjustments.

A round or two would be fine, but I know others as well as myself would prefer to avoid a large chunk of stock and strange rule battles

Very awesome. Along the lines of what Roy said, how is the durability of the arrows?

Also, what's an estimated cost per arrow, do you happen to know? Finally, where did you get your foam rod? I've only seen the stuff with the slit, like Merz found.

These seem like they could be pretty fun for an indoor war, if they're durable enough and not too expensive to make

I may come... It's about a 3 hour drive for me (from Columbus). My friend said it to was too far for him, but my brother might be interested. Maybe for now, I'll try to confirm when the date gets closer so I know more about my schedule and the location/attendance (which is what Demon Lord meant, I think.

I use a variety of barrel materials to make hopper clips. You can use anything you fancy, or anything that you can nest inside of 1/2" Sch. 40 PVC. Generally you want a pretty tight fit for springer, and a looser fit for "airguns". (Some people don't know this, *cough* Brit *cough*) Let's start with some CPVC, a great barrel material for springers.

I don't quite understand this. Hopper clips rely on gravity to do all the work, right? So if you have CPVC or something that is tight, how is the dart supposed to fall into the barrel? Sorry if I misunderstood something here, but I don't get it.

The barrel material is tight, however, the 'clip' part where the darts are stored is looser, generally 1/2" PVC, so that the darts can fall down and feed into the main barrel. You need two different sizes, a tighter barrel and a looser dart containing tube.

So how does the addition of a hopper influence optimal barrel length compared to singling? Kabigon, you seem to see no loss of range.

I’ll bet there is a complex formula, several jackass answers, and I’m sure a telescoping barrel would work GREAT… but really a general “no to little change” or “way hella much: cut the length in half” is what I am hoping for.

I haven't done too much testing, but slightly shorter. It really depends on your dart/barrel fit too much for there to be any guidelines, you just have to test it out for your blasters with your stuff. About 2 inches off of a 10-12" blaster would prob be fine, but it will depend on how your darts fit.

Edit: Nice write up, getting a hopper to work can be tricky, but once you do, it's awesome. My brother has been putting a nail or small piece of coat hanger through the back side to block darts from going toward the air output of the blaster (we use 1" darts, so they can sometimes fall backward). It's hard to describe with words, I'll see if he can get a pic of one.

Forgot to say something sooner, but I'll be there, with at least 3 others.

I'll also be bringing some blasters for trade

This is looking to be pretty nice. Hopefully next weekend is less cold and windy than this past one.

I dont want to sound like a dumbass here but....is this real?

Yep. It'll be out just before the 9/9/10 blaster.

Wow! This is just incredible. Better than anything I've ever made. I do think you should put a longer barrel on the LS though, for accuracy's sake.

Yeah, the LS barrel should be about as long as the titan's.

I just added a tac-rail receiver so I can mount a pistol on the side, just to make it even more overkill. pix when the glue dries.
sistermol: It did not have a trigger, but 1 hr ago I added a bent coathanger running to a trigger by the LS trigger.

Updated pics please!!

Also, could you post big ones for the updates? I have trouble seeing the outstanding detail in the smaller ones. Thanks!!!

Suggestions? Anything I did wrong with my mod in the first place?

I have part of a Tampon Applicator (no Crayola markers were handy, so I got inventive)

I have part of a Tampon Applicator

I have part of a Tampon

Tampon

Unless the foam of your darts makes a tight fit in the PVC, you won't get great ranges. You want a snug fit for spring guns, so the tip must remain out of the barrel, unless the dart is a streamline. A pic of your setup (without the tampon) would be of help.

I vote for Whetstone Park of Roses, pretty good place.

Not the 8th would also work best for my brother and I. He said a few of his friends were interested, so I could bring a few more people if it was on a date that is not the 8th.

Since you've abandoned the turret (the seal isn't too difficult on the Lanard Shot Gun) and have a coupler on it, I would just go for an RSCB instead. They are generally less finicky than inline clips in terms of shooting multiple shots.

However, one thing you should improve/fix is the transition from PVC to CPVC, hammering a piece in will warp the PVC a little bit, as well as mess with your CPVC, changing that could just help your problem. You could drill out an inch or two of PVC with a 5/8" drill bit, then the CPVC will fit in easier, or just use a coupler and place the CPVC into a smaller walled 1/2" PVC, wrapping it with electrical tape to make it snug.