Yes.

 
I​ was intending to drop the voltage of the pusher motor only, and preferably in the simplest way. I'll look into other options, I was just under the assumption that diodes was common practice in a nerf  rate of fire application.

I just broke part of the base on one of the gears in my Rapidstrike so that it won't sit on the pin without falling off and jamming the pusher motor/arm constantly. Is there anywhere I can buy a replacement or a replacement pusher assembly for it? I am so mad right now!

I'm working on a 2 stage RS (2190's + 2850's) on 3s, with a 2850(honey badger) as the pusher. I will be using a rocker switch to switch between full rof (14dps), and dropped rof (8-9dps). By my calculations, I need to to drop the voltage by 2-2.5v. The only info I could find was to use 1N5400 3A diodes that drop the voltage 0.7V each (so that I would need to use 3 in series).
Now my question is; are 3A diodes going to be safe to use with my particular setup? (I estimate my motors at full stall to be in the neighborhood of 75A). If not, what would be a better diode to serve my application? Perhaps there is something else I should be using.
Any help, suggestions or clarification would be much appreciated as my knowledge of circuitry is quite basic.

How much power would a OMW Alpha trooper kit spring add compared to stock? (On their website, their spring is 5+kg, while stock is 2.5kg

Has a [k26] in a elite alpha trooper been tested before? I assume I would need to reinforce a lot of stuff aswell

So for that "T" connection for the green wire at the far right, how would I go about doing that? I can't imagine shrink-tubing that normally... (and I do love my shrink tube on the rare occasion I do solder)

The way you drew your circuit is wrong, your rocker switch needs to be between power supplies and rev switch motors, if I was home I would draw one for you but I'm currently not.

Your hot and common both need to connect to the rocker first and then go to the rev and motors. Also your gonna want a SPDT switch instead of the DPDT, it will be much easier on you.

I'll add a diagram when I get home if someone else hasn't by then.

This is a rough diagram of how it should be wired, before you solder anythng but double check it before you solder it

Basically, yes

Nobody has given him an exact response for what to buy, so...
 
I have ordered from these links before, both work as expected.
 
18 AWG wire (Black and red): http://www.banggood....e-p-921159.html
18AWG is all you need. The resistance wont worry you anyway, no point wasting that extra money and space inside your blaster.
 
Microswitch: http://www.ebay.com....m//321705842639
The microswitch is rated high enough for the job. Ive used higher rated switches before, no noticeable difference between them.

Also 3d modeling, rendering, and post-processing (of various things, but these are space ships):

 

 

The second picture of the spaceships could be a awesome hammer

No not at all I love ACC darts just pointing out that I learned the hard way that they do not like flywheels   and koosh darts are good for any flywheels unless you have a flywheel gun with that "rifling" since it seems to catch the head of koosh darts and make everything terrible (so in other words you need to remove that "rifling" or sand it down to use koosh darts but it is worth it and should be done)

Yeah not sure if you know this or not but that has been known ever since they were first found as "chunlin" darts. If I remember correctly I was sadly one of the first to find that ACCs don't like flywheels the hard way after my demolisher decided to fling the head about 15 feet while the foam was still stuck in the magazine.

This continues to be my spare time hobby.  I've almost finished a home made reflow oven so that I might begin making my own PCBs. But the project is moving slow.  For that I'm sorry everyone, I know many of you have expressed interest in this endeavor.  I do intend to complete it, and I will contact you all when it is completed.
 
Thank you all!  And enjoy playing Nerf!
 
 - Technician Gimmick

I saw a video (Bay Area Nerf, maybe?) where they submerged a Hammershot for five minutes, melting the gun entirely... by the time they tried to pull the gun apart with two vehicles I realized they were being facetious.

Even so, I don't want to ruin my 2K... unfortunately I can't get the barrels off to be able to cut where I want to until the glued piece is removed.

I'll try the dipping method... thanks for the tips guys.

That's BlackSteelProps. His 3D printed flywheel cage says it is for the Stryfe. Is that interchangeable with the Rapidstrike?

You have to change the switches to handle the higher current of the new motors, etc. 

I think I know what he means on both counts. Right now you have the axle of the CFS offset to one side (the right if you're pointing the blaster away from yourself). I think he means adding a second that is offset to the left.  As it is now, it could be torquing the plunger rod to one side which could fuck up your plunger rod seal. 
 
You said that the spring needs to be extended slightly before it applies it's maximum force.  I think he may mean that your plunger rod extension is allowing the spring to wind up too much, and it would be better to have a shorter plunger tube and the spring per-extended more, but based on what I read in your first post it seems like you already accounted for that.

Huh?  It's the main spring of the blaster, the one that moves the plunger.  That's literally the second sentence of my first post.
 
As for the pictures you're asking for, there were some in the pictures thread that I linked to at the beginning.  I've edited the first post to include them in this thread as well.