The only thing i can think of is your going to have to trial and error with a universal tv remote there will be 2 codes one to move the launch angle one to launch a disc. It is somewhat complicated but i would try a tv remote see if any buttons or combo of buttons triggers anything.

Other options involve much more complicated methods involving making a new control board with an arduino. It would not be overly complicated to control a 3 position servo a variable speed motor and the launch solenoid. It is beyond my skill but it would be possible.

A easier method might be to buy a second one with a remote they are 65-130 on ebay or find someone with the remote willing to let you record the pulses from it you could then program a select few remotes perhaps even a tv be gone diy type unit you would just need to use the 2 codes from the actual remote instead of the on/off db they flash on the diy chips.


http://www.instructa...e-with-Arduino/

IIRC from a Drac video, the 7kg spring is required to drive the stage 3 extended barrel (it induces too much barrel drag otherwise).

yes but it also makes the blaster alot harder to prime.

Also about that extended barrel it sucks the attachment point it has is a slight upgrade but the barrel itself sucks if memory serves omw went back and tweaked it to be bigger around so it caused less drag... I felt this was a shame as i liked the look of the stage 3 kit but when i found out the drawbacks and that the 7kg spring + the barrel ended up with worse ranges and speeds than stage 1 and 2 i decided not to bother with stage 3... And guess what i don't have any issues with my retaliator lockup all locks removed and it works perfectly it is gathering dust as i have moved onto a stryfe and rapid strike but my advise to solve the lock up issues is unscrew the barrel and use the 5kg spring after making sure the trigger and catch springs are the upgraded ones and did not slip out of place...

If you absolutely need to use the extended barrel i suggest brassing it make sure you get big enough brass. To widen the barrel a dowel with a piece of sand paper wrapped around it then chucked in a drill will make short work of opening it up then push a brass 7/16 size tube down it if it ends up too loose you can glue it but it should fit so snugly it wont need anything. It will be wider and it should solve the issue with the barrel reducing the distance and speed.

Can the Catch move freely? Also, Is the prime-length correct and and is is pushing the plunger all the way back to meet the catch?

I have the #1 and #2 kit on my retaliator did you use the supplied spring for the catch or the old spring. The supplied spring is of a higher strength than the old spring. I also suggest going with the 5kg spring vs the 7kg spring that comes with the 3rd stage kit. The 7kg does not improve it that much over the 5kg just makes it much much harder to prime.

was saying that for the purposes of you likely have hundreds of darts where as just getting into the zeus you would only have the ammo it came with if you were to pick this up for modding a fundamental expense rises across the board new ammo stock pile new mag stock pile if your purposes are for a nerf war with shock and awe factor i dont see it being all that useful that said i can see nerf phasing out darts for this. engineering can only take the darts so far.

Exotics are just fine. I just want to know are there any better ones.


Torque is the focus, not rpm!

Why do you need super high torque... The fps comes from rpm the load of the darts comes from torque. So heavier darts would be the only benefit and it might hit harder but it would not go as far and would have greater slippage on the darts.

I just want to know. Torque is for the efficiency. That doesn't mean I don't want rpm.

EDIT: The flywheels I'll use will make slippage more minor of a problem.

there is only so much you can do vs slippage i suppose the torque would help with heavier wheels too...

Wait a second... this gives me an idea! If the Zeus has 380 motors, and Xtreme Productions (home of the xtreme pro 180) makes 380 motors... You see where I'm going.

different ammo as far as i know few mods there was one that was full auto at 11v looked beastly

you could using the 1.2 v rechargeable go with a motor swap race motors like the plasma dash or hyper dash are meant to run at those voltages rather than the over volt the imr give...

if i may ask why so afraid of imr my charger does the 1.2v rechargeable too and i use the 14500 size in a few of my flashlights too... and i have my rapidstrike setup to run off 18650...

I'd like to use 1.2v rechargeable batteries because my family bought a bunch for household use, so using those to power the stryfe will make the most out of the batteries.

but that simply is not true it will reduce the number of rechargeable for other devices that are used in your household that would make better use of the low amperage low voltage batteries... Also NiMH go bad just like every other chemistry you will burn them out quicker than the devices currently using them.

there is no getting around the fact that NiMH AA batteries are not the optimal cell for this application Li-MN lasts longer preforms better and is over all better served in this case and lipo is even better...

if you absolutely must use the 1.2v NiMH batteries then i recommend a motor swap rather than strapping more cells onto your rig...

plasma dash or mach dash they are meant to run off 3-4.5v that would be the better option vs strapping a battery holder and cutting the end plate in half in the gun and connecting the extra holder to extend the battery bay by 2

Nevermind nerf trolls customers...

the difference in the flywheel XD vs just the elite was a new flywheel cage with the wheels a few mm closer together to give them a better grip on the dart.

I use a pair of 18650 IMR in my rapidstrike a pair of 26650 would fit too and not need a tray of their own. and you can get 26650 that can do up to 30-60A with a rather high capacity.

alternately the lipo pack would also fit all you do is remove 2 screws from the stock tray the front plate comes off and you then shove the lipo in the stock area and put the plate back...

To me it seems like they are not going far enough over all like mine blasts a spray of foam out much further than yours did it seemed some went sideways in the barrel and lost energy really quick.

That's what I thought too. It seemed to have worked better stock. I'm going to get some better batteries for it and see if that helps at all, if not maybe a new set of motors... Kinda disappointed with the performance of it. I've done other battery upgrades and restrictor removals before and always the blasters have worked out much better in the past. Don't really know what the deal is with this one...

My guess is that the flywheels are spinning up at a much different RPM and tossing the dart either up or down into the barrel and giving it the wonky performance.

Humm you had to rebuild the end bell of one motor i wonder if that has anything to do with it try moving that one to the pusher?

Or replace both flywheel motors.

Alright I just swapped the yellow wire over and double checked my motors, they are running super fast now. My original intention was to make the gun quieter, but seeing how powerful it is now... I kinda like the roar

another thing to do is to remove that white rubber flappy thing over the dart entrance i was getting jams with mine until i ripped that shit out.

and as for quiet the only quiet flywheel is a stopped flywheel look into motor breaking to make them stop faster then work on spin up time it should already be super short with what you have already done.

also since you got rm2 did you C-Mod them as in did you replace the stock low voltage brushes with the upgraded silver carbon brushes.

I found this on another modding website "De-solder the left end of the yellow wire from where it is and solder it back on top of the red wire that comes in from the positive battery. This will disable the mechanism that causes the flywheels to be slow at first." -Rexar5 humanvszombies.org

is that basically a way of bypassing those diodes?

yes it just bypasses the circuit. That alone might fix the issue you are having. While in there i would also remove both thermal fuses as they bleed off some juice too. You also may want to switch to NiMH

Alright, i'll try popping the resistors off, and see how that goes
(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community )

those are inductors not resistors leave them be they help with the amperage drawn from the battery set look at bridging the diodes in the trigger area to remove the slow down while the pusher is not active instead.

another thing you can do is is rework the trigger area that is where the most restrictive part of the circuits are. The rapid strike has a pair of diodes that function as a limiter while the pusher is not active you can do the extra work and strip out most of this.

honestly http://www.blasterte...3_13607466.aspx
the falcon 130 motors look to be beastly...

my brother had put away his rapid strike for a couple of weeks, and now the clip lock button is stuck in the release position making it impossible to keep a clip in it. if anyone has had this problem or knows how I may be able to fix it that would be a lot of help.

try actuating it a few times or take it apart.

So would those motors work with IMRs or trust fires?

yes but not as well as a lipo pack the 180s tend to pull a bit more stall amps than IMR provide the stock motors are not so bad with 2 IMR i tossed 2 IMR 18650 in my battery tray the gun is a whole new beast and the balance it toward the center rather than forward. Mind you mine is stock.

There are a lot of threads on motors it uses the same motors as the stryfe ANY 130 size will fit in the stock spot the pusher motor can be replaced with out modding the shell with a 180 you need to mod the pusher tray. Honestly i want to put a brushless set in mine Mainly due to liking the start up sound some make just think you are getting ready and it is time to start so you flip the master on deet deet doo deet then those motor sounds...

Like the silverhead said it is normal nerf put a limiter that gets removed when the pusher motor is activated when you hold it down the motors go full speed when you just run the acceleration switch the flywheels run at 75% or so.

If you are handy and know your way around a soldering iron then you could just mod it.

I think it revved one motor, but the other one doesn't want to rev. I don't have a recorder, but it sounds like a whine, but after a few seconds, it gets into a deeper hum. Without pulling the firing trigger. I think one motor has a bad connector, or is jammed.

look through the jam door at the wheels make sure both flywheels can spin freely. Like others have already said both motors rev to a nerf set speed then when you pull the other trigger they go full speed if only one of your wheels was spinning it would sound very quiet with only 1 harmonic frequency rather than a duet.

To me it sounds like your plunger needs to be replaced the front edge came off and that is what kept that plunger from getting up over the ridge stop in the piston chamber.

What i would do is grease it up to see if it helps if it solves the issue great if not i would say that you removed too much dead space you could trim down the hot glue slowly until the issue gets fixed.

Just remember that without the AR dry fires are not recommended they will break parts.

alright thanks for that.

Well there are two locks involved one in-front of the trigger next to the mag lock and one on the bolt sled itself i removed both from mine and i have no issues you can tell if you are primed by the feel of the trigger too it will feel heavier than non primed with no locks...

the plunger tube may be in upside down that is really the only way the lock on the bolt sled can malfunction

pretty gnarled up there plans to paint it? honestly i would have gone with a lipo or imr mod rather than AA

1. If I run a 2s 25c LiPo, will it be weaker than Ultrafires or not? (High Discharge but low voltage)
A. It will be equal to running 2 ultrafires
2. If I run a 3s 20c LiPo, is it necessary to change my rev switch into a high current micro switch?
A. Maybe the original switches are rated much lower they will eventually burn out and don't pass as much current but stock motors on 3s you can skip the switch upgrade for now you should think hard about doing it eventually.
3. If I run a 500mAh pack and I'm playing for 5 hours, do I need to bring 2 packs? (don't want to cut shell)
A. depends on motors and play style how heavy handed you are on the rev switch. From what i have found 800-1000 is the biggest that fits in a stryfe with a little bit of modding as in removing dividers and support ribs on the battery door
4. Can anybody give me a link for tutorials on how to charge LiPos using a smart charger? (maybe an IMAX B6 Balance Charger?)
A. Google youtube then "how to use imax b6. first result
5. My LiPo has a JST discharge plug and a JST-XH balance plug, if I want to plug both into my Stryfe or my balance charger, what terminals should I use for the Stryfe and the charger? (Male/Female)
A. The stryfe wont have anything you will need to install something to plug into the balance port and the discharge the jst is what you will plug into the stryfe you will need something like this
6.Do stock motors spin fast on a 2s LiPo? (Related to Question 1)
A. I find they do fine on 2 IMR which would be like a 2s 700mAH 10c
7. How do I solder a Female JST plug to my wire to plug LiPos in? (if you have a link, it's fine)
http://www.amazon.co... plug connector
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqV2xU1fee8
it should be pretty self explanatory you run the two wires into the guts of the stryfe and where the 2 wires connect to the battery tray you connect the jst

google and search will both give you numerous how to on modding the stryfe most commonly a rewire mod first result on google search https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o4AR9fvwlYw ONLY thing i have to say about the video is those "resistors" are not resistors they are Transistors they drop voltage and increase amperage but are not needed.

odd how all of your questions are not yes or no...

another useful bit of knowledge is here is a listing of max acceptable amperage for a given wire size we would be looking at both chassis is more short bursts and what we would use primarily but for longer use the transmission is important too as at a given amperage the wire will heat up and eventually melt

AWG max Amp chassis  max Amp power transmission
10	55	      15
11	47	      12	
12	41	       9.3	
13	35	       7.4	
14	32	       5.9	
15	28	       4.7	
16	22	       3.7	
17	19	       2.9	
18	16	       2.3	
19	14	       1.8	
20	11	       1.5

try spinning the motor it might be stuck... or burnt out another thing would be make sure all the locks are actuated...

Also kill leader... dont you need a custom Rapidstrike or stryfe/rayven for that these days...

Update:

I found out that its never the same barrel that doesnt shoot as far. Sometimes the gun fired 6/6 nicely, other times its a 5/6, and other times its a low 3/6 or 2/6. Any way i can avoid this?

sounds like dart wear you might want to check the foam pad on the plunger if it is damaged or worn that is the seal that hits the cylinder and makes the seal to fire the dart. that spring might be weak or broken.

The protection PCB should keep them safe. That's kind of the entire reason it's there.

That said, ultrafires are very unfit for this purpose. A brief google search fails to find their official safe discharge rate. Similar li-ion cells are rated to about 1-2C, which means these can really only deliver about 1A continuous. Those motors ask for 2.8-3.8A at 2.4-3.0V. You're feeding them 11.1V, so they're actually probably drawing somewhere in the ballpark of 10A or more at times. This is for one motor, you're driving two, so double that. 20A is something that even unprotected ultrafire 14500s will never, ever be able to do unless you run something like 10 or 15 of them in parallel.

Ultrafires and their cousin trustfires have their place, but driving motors is not it. Feeding 11.1V to motors rated for 3 is not a good place to be either. Sure, the Tamiyas might be able to handle it, but I'd be very careful. What you really should do is get a 1S (lithium) or 3cell (nickel) battery pack that can deliver enough current.

So back to the beginning question. Are your batteries safe? I'd say probably, but you're abusing the hell out of them, and I'm really not sure how the protection PCB will react.

When higher than normal current is drawn the protection shuts down the cell that cell that is not taking a charge either got discharged below or tripped the circuit. If you must go up to at least imr batteries they will be better off than the ultrafires which i would dispose of at this point or store them in a fire proof box. It sounds like the op over discharged them.

The best option would be a lipo 1s with the highest amperage he could find. Next a single purple efest 18650 30A. after that efest v2 14500 if possible 2 in parallel i have been toying with the idea of reworking my stryfe's battery box to have 2p2s efest 14500 v2 also i would recommend a voltage monitor addition to prevent over discharge in the future.

Because they can vent and this is for a commission for a 12 year-old.

those are li-ions that vent

imr get hot that is it.



And

lifepo4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XymqQ-YlfJ0

if you really need it to be drooling idiot proof drop the 180s get some plasma dash or tamyias and stick NiMh or alkalines

has anyone tried something like these http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B0057QCGRM
and if so are they the same thing as like trustfires?

no they are better but not high discharge like you need those are 1C so 400 mA.

these would be better http://www.amazon.co...rds=efest 14500 and do close to 10A discharge if you can jump 1 more size up to 18650 purple efests can do 30A

Does anyone here know what nimh aa's can discharge high enough for 180's?

the only nimh packs that can are ones like this http://www.summitrac...r3S6xoCpvTw_wcB

@jwasko
but yes i should have clarified that i was talking about dropping the 180 in favor of motors that run well at stock voltages and used normal batteries or standard rechargeables. But honestly if the kid is as dumb as the op is making him out to be then he should not be handling the gun in the first place he will likely put his own eye out or mangle a finger.

That is just about perfect except it might be too big to fit in a stryfe. Anything LiFePo4 is much safer than *fires. *fires are absolute sh1t.

they would be running close to stock voltage with 2 of them within margin of error on a alkaleak/lithium primary assuming 1.6v on all 4... without a motor swap it likely would not net you much of a gain.

where as a li-mn cell almost as safe as lifepo4 and 7.4-8.4v with 2 of them for 1.4-2.4v over volt on most motors.

Yea I do not want IMRs, I was just wondering if those would work. Maby I can find a better one.

Why not?

li-ion are the dangerous ones and are what most trustfires are.

li-mn are imr and are safe

Lifepo4 safest most durable chemistry...

Li-ion and li-mn are charged in the same charger and my charger the nitecore D4 has an option to charge lifepo4

What store might have NIMH packs?

I think this same battery is available in radioshack.

(sorry about the quote backspaced too far.

i doubt that pack has more than a 5A discharge. The wires are so thin...

http://hobbyking.com..._Lipo_Pack.html

Then again, you could always run more if you mount externally.

we are talking a stryfe and 18650 size cells personally speaking there is only so much bulk i would want hanging on the outside and 2 18650 is about my limit for pistol config but i suppose 2 on either side of the mag would fit too.

I just came across these: http://m.dx.com/p/us...ry-green-360333 and they seem to be too good to be true for the price.

those are li-ion the ones that are typically dangerous it also states the actual capacity is 1700mAh I would not be shocked if the 30A rating is the burst draw and the sustained is much lower.

Yes, you are correct.

If that is the one thing you remove from the internals i highly suggest it. It is just a mechanical lock that gets in the way more than it helps honestly i would pull all the mechanical locks and trim the top of the rev trigger so the dart trigger does not hit it rather than trimming the dart trigger like most guides suggest.


Also what are the run times like for that battery pack?

My next mod is going to be the addition of a volt meter inside my stryfe when i do ill get pictures of my rewire with solid core 18 gauge it was interesting to work with. I may or may not swap the stock rev switch to a 10A switch. and i may or may not use the jam door switch to turn off and on the volt meter i also thought about placing the volt meter where you have your battery so when i check the voltage i flip it up get the reading close it turns off the meter. I tested it and when placed against the plastic you can read the numbers through the plastic so it can be super stealth.

is that the dart sensor still in there?

Good tips, thank you. I like these ideas.

I have not formally monitored the battery life. However, I have fired about 200 darts through my Stryfe with the Turnigy Lipo and it's dropped from 4.16v/cell to 3.96v/cell, which linearly extrapolates to 860 darts before the Turnigy Lipo needs to be swapped out (low voltage alarm is set to go off at 3.3v/cell.

Start/End Voltage: 4.16/3.96 = 0.2v used
Darts Fired: 200
4.16v-3.3v = .86v/.001 = 860 dart battery life (SD +/-80)

Dang, I like the idea of a digital voltage meter. I could probably trim out a window on starboard side and rig my digital voltage meter/alarm for viewing. I like your top side idea better though, more functional.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPKV4Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the ones i got. Like i said no cutting needed the plastic of the nerf gun lets enough light through that you can just glue it to the inside and it shows through. In the stryfe on either side of the magazine area the meter is thin enough that it doesn't interfere. I'm also thinking near the back on the left half of the shell it should not interfere with the trigger but ill have to decide when i get around to putting it in where exactly it will end up.

I call bullshit on those shots-per-charge calculations. 300mAh is a tiny battery. Stock motors have winding impedances of something like 12-15 ohms, right? Even if we give them a relatively conservative number like 20 ohms, they'll still be pulling about 300-350mA at 7.4V. That gives them less than an hour of operation under ideal conditions. So I don't buy it.

The shots per charge was not calculated in a very accurate way it doesn't take into account that as the battery drops it drops quicker the lower it gets. Also the 35C constant 75C burst is 300mA * 35 and 300*75 for 10.5 amp constant and 22.5 amp burst this kinda puts it down to imr range.

For those that did not know C rating is a measure of how much current can be discharged it represents the capacity of the battery array * rating C = amps possible. So if you have a battery that is 300mA with 25c constant it can deliver 10.5 amps constantly.

I think unless your running non stock motors that pull 20 or more amps you dont really need to run these lipo packs you can do IMR. Are they ideal? No, but the good chargers for them can do other chemistry too. I use a nitecore d4 to charge mine it does NiMH, Li-ion, Li-Mn, Li-Fepo4 and Nicd and it has a 12v input so i could use my car accessory plug to charge them.

my stryfe is running on a pair of these they are ~14c
efest v2 IMR 14500 3.7v High Discharge
Maximum Continuous Discharge Rate: 9.75A
Maximum Continuous Charging Rate: 1.3A
Chemistry: Li-MN
Rated Capacity: 700mAh

It's not opinion. Battery ratings aren't user based. Google 'Trustfire explosion,' or similar.

It is a known fact that "fire" batteries can vary from 500mA up to 4A discharge current and most fall in the 2-3A range unless they are cheap low quality cells. The stock motors are made to do with 500mA at best with 4 AA batteries. By giving them a proper power source they can scream to their hearts content. IMR or LI-MN cells discharge 10A-35A burst and should be the only drop in choice anyone considers. Lipo packs like most suggest are expensive but they are far better than any others you can pickup ones that can do 50-100A burst discharge.

Also trust fire and ultra fire are very commonly counterfeited look up counterfeit ultrafire dissection. There are 3 ways they are faked the worst is when they put a 30 mAh foil pack inside an 18650 can and fill the rest with sand or flour or plaster dust so the weight is close enough. There are just cheap cells not made very well these are the fire balls waiting to happen. Then there are 900mA cells labeled 3800mAh.

I would pull cells from laptop batteries before i bought a fire brand. For 14500 cells aw or efest imr are better than any fire and they can do decent amps.