Well the 10 pound estimate is being generous. It'd probably be more like 6-7 pounds.

I can't separate the pieces because that would lead to structural weakness. I can't make anything that I wouldn't feel safe in the hands of an angry alcoholic. It's my personal philosophy to only make things that are safe enough for children to fight with without any thought to consequence, or that adults with too much enthusiasm don't maim each other with.

So, modularizing it is out of the question for me. Maybe I could convince them to come pick it up, it'd be cheaper. XD

Hi, I'm being asked for a commission for a Gravity Hammer and it's going to be big. It's a foam weapon, 90 inches long, and most likely roughly 10 x 10 inches in width and depth. It will probably weigh around 10 pounds.

The problem is how to ship it from Montreal, Quebec, Canada to New York, USA. I've tried looking at a few sites and the only one that has accepted the dimensions has been UPS. The cheapest shipping was $76 CAD, which is probably more expensive than the cost of the weapon will be.

Anyone have any ideas of what I could ship with at a more reasonable price?

I dunno, it reminds me of some exotic kind of marble stonework. It looks good, how'd you manage that paint job?

Will everyone please just let this die. I'm getting annoyed seeing it on the front page, and I'm sure others are too.

I'm curious as to how the gun actually gets cocked. I understand how everything else works, but how do you cock it? Do you pull the barrel forwards or what?

Guys, I don't know about you, but this makes me want to build shit. How many of us have access to scrap wood? How much do screws cost?

I don't care if this just looks like a Franken-box instead of a tank, it looks like you could live in it. Uncomfortably, but still, how many of you have built something you could live in? I sure haven't.

This isn't an 'end' to this idea, this is just a starting point. Also it makes me wonder if we can't figure out a way to have an 'Extreme' Nerf War, where people pair off on bikes, one person shooting, the other person biking.


...Nevermind.

I need to find my drill and make something awesome out of junk <.<

Easy way to increase reload time.

Yeah, I got a chuckle out of that too. Good ol' english.

Ok, well let me just state all this in one post:

Silicone lubricant is SAFE for use with condoms. In fact, silicone lube is sometimes used instead of water based lubes for a good reason: it will never dry up or evaporate. Water based lubes are cheaper, but you have to use more of it for the same effect as silicone. Though it is not reccomended to use AUTOMOTIVE silicone lubricant during sex, since it is absolutely ice cold out of a spray canister. I mean, ouch.

Vaseline, Lithium grease, WD-40, and any other petroleum based lubricant is not safe for condoms OR Nerf guns. They will eat away rubber. I'm not sure about Lithium hybrids, so I guess I'll trust a first hand account of that.

K-Y Jelly is water based. Besides this, it is designed to dry up and be easily removed. If you try using K-Y Jelly in a Nerf gun, either spring powered or pump action, it will work. For about 12 hours if you use a lot. After that, it will either completely dissapear, or become dry, flake up, and clog your pump or plunger to hell. Easy to clean up with water alone, but you don't want to.

Also, silicone spray doesn't ooze. So, nice attempt, but ew.

Happy Nerfing, and happy... *raises eyebrows and winks*

I followed the beginning of CaptainSlug's Maverick Drop Clip to improve the barrel rotation's effeciency and such, but now I've run into a spot of trouble. I epoxied the two pieces together all fine and dandy, screwed everything tightly back into place and closed the casing with the screws that I've been so frantically screwing and unscrewing over the past two days that the heads are starting to wear away despite my care.

The problem is that the barrel wont even rotate. I pull the trigger, and it barely even twitches. Funny thing is, when I unscrew the casing, the barrel rotates fine with the trigger, but when I screw the casing back on... It just jams. I can't figure out exactly what the problem is, but I figured out that pressing the two bumps on the side of the casings together when it's closed (right before where the barrel is housed) I can use the trigger to rotate the barrel pretty normally. But when I let go, it just jams. Any ideas?

You didn't put the gun back together correctly is all I can figure. The rotation mechanism has to be seated properly.

Haha, actually, I fixed my problem a couple days ago. The problem wasn't that the mechanism wasn't seated properly. The screws holding the back piece of the mechanism in place weren't as tight as possible. Woops!

Haha, thanks anyways.

I'm quite certain it's all in it's proper place and securely fastened. This is really bugging me...

Here's a quick photo:

Ahhhh... That helps a lot... So shall I remove the black washer and spring?

I've tried sawing off the straight part of the shell at the top and replacing it with CPVC, but now the dart barely leaves the shell when I fire... I'm guessing it's too tight a fit, but I'm using two inches of 1/2" CPVC, following a mod of the Double Shot I saw elsewhere on the forums... They said they got 3 times the distance. Do I need different CPVC?

Edit: Haha, ok, nevermind that. I finally figured out how to remove the bottom piece of the rod. Everything works fine. I read the other mod wrong where it said it gave it 3 times the range, it was 3 times the power. Which is about right. It shoots harder, but it's range is only increased by a foot at most in the Double Shot. Seems like a waste of effort to mod the shells like that alone. Thanks for your help guys!

I'm curious as to how the shells from the Ruff Stuff Double Shot and the Ruff Stuff Rapid Fire Rifle work. I noticed that there's a black ring inside that's pushed down when you insert darts, what is the purpose of that? Also, would Stefans work with the shells once the rod is removed? Also, what is that small circle on the bottom of the shells, it's a small indent on the plastic right outside of the circle signifying the seal?

I want to understand the mechanisms fully before I venture out to try some random mods, since I don't have easy access to replacements for them.

Thanks!

CaptainSlug, Carbon, Groove, what is your oppions if this would work?

Distance reduces the pull strength, unlike with springs where compression or extension distance scales up the applied load.
I'm not optimistic.

Even so (with the kind of power these magnets have, that wouldn't be a big deal over a span of 5 inches), you can simply add another magnet at the back of the plunger, which is repelling the magnet on the plunger itself. That way, you have the immediate full force of the repulsion as well as the immediate attraction of the other magnet. The whole thing'd be so powerful it might just break itself if it were made of plastic! Haha. I think this is a good avenue for a home-made.

You would need a cushioned plunger head, because the force of impact could be enough to realign the magnetic domains. Also, magnetic fields are inversely proportional to the distance squared, so this would need to have super slim and super strong magnets. I'm thinking that for the cost and effectiveness of this (over $20 in magnets) you might as well have used the spring, which is far more reliable. Great thinking, but not a feasible idea.

I don't know, a 3 mm thick magnet with 18 lbs of pull strength for $1.08 seems pretty decent to me. Not as cheap as a spring (since you'd be using two or three of these) but it wouldn't be a bad idea. I agree with cushioning the plunger. Also, leaving an actual gap between the two attracting magnets so that they couldn't touch even if there was no cushion. Benefits of using magnets instead of springs... well, you get more power out of magnets, depending on the magnet used. Uhh, yeah, that's all I can think of.

You'd put them at the BACK of the plunger, and on the BACK of the plunger-head, so the repulsive force of the magnets accelerates the plunger. That way, you get the full pull (or push, in this case) of the magnets right off the bat.

The problem with that is that once the magnets have finished repulsing (that is if the force doesn't reach to the other end of the tube) then the plunger will decellerate as it goes along it's path. Which is why I suggested using both repulsion and attraction with magnets that won't tear the casing apart.

Anyways, I like the idea. You should go for it and tell us the results.

Hey, so I'm modding an NF, and I'd like to make it cock from the top, akin to a Maverick's cocking handle. I always found the NF's cocking handle to be annoying, in the way, awkward, and I wanted to give it the ease of Maverick priming. That way when you reload it, or keep it in your pocket, it's more solid and the whole rod wont get in your way.

What I want to know, is a good material to use for the handle. Note, I'll be sawing off as much of the circles at the back of the gun that read 'NERF' to make the gun more sleek and to allow the top cocking mechanism to be as slim as possible against the shell. I want a material that I can find easily, preferably cheap, and durable. I was thinking either wood, epoxied or something into a sort of box frame as the cocking handle, or take some PVC, cut it in half lengthwise and try to heat it into a handle-suitable shape. Any ideas?

If you do use the stock spring, you'll have a much longer service life with this experiment if it works. I would still reinforce it with some aluminum sheeting or something similar, though, so you don't have to worry about being extremely gentle with it. I assume this will be for indoor wars if it is completed and sees action?

P.S.: I've heard of hobby shops, Ace Hardware, and local town hardware stores carrying springs, but you've probably tried those if they are around where you live.

P.P.S.: To shape PVC, cut it to the length you want, and then heat it with a lighter, torch, fire, etc. Do this until it is pliable but not dripping. Then mold it (I recommend gloves here) into the shape you want. You'll probably want to press it right over the top of your NF. Do this until it is the shape you want. I imagine that it can be done with regular-thickness PVC, but I've only molded thinwall this way. Be careful, and don't breathe the fumes.

Well I'm not really aware of a Nerf community in Montreal. I've just gotten into Nerf modding as a hobby in itself, though I'd love to use what I spend all this time on. There's a Sci-Fi club at my college that hosts a small Nerf War once a year, so I'll see if I can sneak into that.

Last time I checked, Ace Hardwares aren't in Canada. And the only hobby shop I've seen closed down just as I got interested in Nerf.

The only reason that the mav's cocking handle can slide back forward after you cock it is because it uses the reverse plunger system. The nf does not.

Firstly, thank you all for your responses.

Now, dealing with the plunger shaft still sticking out, I understand that, but it seems fragile to me, and if you have it encased in a more solid cocking handle, it would be less likely to snap with rough use. Of course, I do have a plan or two to bypass the rod sticking out. I could try cutting off most of the plunger shaft up to the indent, and then screw a chain onto it so that when you cock the gun, the chain will pull back the plunger shaft, have it locked and primed, and the cocking handle can be put back into place, via a small spring or no spring. This way, the chance of the additional weight of the cocking handle slowing down the speed of the plunger wouldn't matter.

I'm not very fond of the idea of destroying my nitefinder and having to scrap it for parts, but I'm willing to do it to see if this is feasible.

edit
To Shadow Hunter Alpha,

I don't intend to replace the spring with anything stronger. I want to do this as a matter of concept.

Also, my dearly beloved Home Depot doesn't stock any springs. It's the only Home Depot in Montreal. Talk about aggravating. So if I want springs, I'd have to order them online. For now, I shall be content with stock springs.

editx2
To MithMorchiant,

I've never had to shape PVC before, know any methods for doing it?

Ok ok, alright. I went out and got myself a 300 g canister of MotoMaster Silicone Lube.

Seems to work fine.

We'll just leave it at, "yes, I've tried it", and "no, it doesn't work very well".

Hahahaha. Oh man. Thanks Carbon, you started my day with a laugh. Also, thanks for the input. I guess I'll just use it as temporary lube for now and buy some silicone spray today.

Hey, what would you rather imagine? Me handling KY Jelly I randomly found in my house, or me handling KY Jelly that I've bought myself and never used.

Though it's a close call on how sad/disturbing it is, I'd pick the self-bought Jelly.

Anyways, I already know I could use Silicone lube, but I'm asking about KY Jelly in particular. Has no one done it before?

Dude, do you know what your parents are using KY jelly for?
If you did I dont think you would be using it or even handling the tube it comes in.

It's my own, buddy

I'm 18.

Could you use KY Jelly as a plunger lube? Also, is it practical to use WD-40, or would that damage the plastic? But first and foremost... Could I use KY Jelly as a plunger lube without worrying about damaging the plastic? Cause if so, it'd save me searching for silicone sprays.

Also, is it practical to use WD-40, or would that damage the plastic?

If that jelly is petroleum based, then it will not work.

It's water-based.

You should change "may bring" to "may carry into a round" when talking about the darts, rockets, ballistic balls etc. There are bound to be lost darts, and this will mean that someone has to have less to fight with in a round, which isn't fair.

I guess that sounds better, but the fact is, I'm the only Nerfer I know who lives in Montreal. All my friends are either LARPers or dont have any 'war' games at all. My friends are actually buying many of their first Nerf guns and building their first foam sword for this war. Also, this war is indoors in a gym, so losing darts will be at a minimum. But I guess I really should let them bring as many as they want, and only bring 21 into a round. Thanks.

Also, your TDM and FFA rules are based on the honor system, but there will always be people who lie. I advise you to have someone (a parent or volunteer) stay in the "designated respawn area" and tally how many people from each team come back, as this will be more accurate. (Plus, people who are seen "dying" but not returning to this area will most likely be seen by other players)

There will be players and observers coming to the event. Observers will have cameras and what not to just watch us pummel each other with foam and immortalize the war. If they can't handle keeping watch over the respawn area. A score can't be accurately calculated from who arrives in the respawn area, however, because allied kills are allowed, which means a mercy kill doesn't give the enemy team any points, but removes one from their own team. I guess I could just change that for simplicity.

The "assault" game type will need a time limit or a life limit, because the game will always result in the assault team winning otherwise.

The assault/defend game has a 20 minute time limit. The two teams don't actually start inside and outside the base. They start an equal distance from it. The charge towards the middle and start trying to get inside without dying. The player who's holding the base has the advantage of forcing melee combat in their favour, since there will only be two entrances on the sides not facing the enemy and allied forces. The disadvantage is that they're stuck in a small area, and blind shooting would probably kill them.

Having no PVC or other materials exposed puts modders at a disadvantage, because even if they are within the range and power requirements, guns like re-barreled Nite Finders, etc. can't be used.

You misunderstood this rule. You may not have any hard material exposed on your sword or seconday foam weapon. You can have whatever you want exposed on your blaster. And in the case of modding them, most of my friends are kind of clueless about that, other than it's my hobby. I'll have to introduce them to this site.

Similarly, only being able to bring one melee weapon of a main and secondary class puts someone with a broken one at a disadvantage, even in the rare case that one breaks. You should change it to "may bring into a round."

Making more than one sword and secondary for a person who never LARPs anyways is a bit much. If I let the experienced LARPers with plenty of backups to fight people who don't have any, then that's unfair. So I'll leave the limit in place and hope they make sturdy swords. Of course, I'm totally bringing duct tape.

The host should have extra weapons of all types (ranged, melee primary, melee secondary) that they can lend in the event of a player's weapon breaking and leaving them without a backup for the rest of the war.

I guess I could manage this, but damn, talk about eating my life savings (which actually don't exist anymore anyways). I have quite a few guns, two Mavericks, Double Shot, Rapid Fire Rifle, two Nite Finders, Mustang 6, a very used and useless Tek 10... Of course I'm not counting my pump guns, cause they're too powerful. But I am bringing one as a demonstration of what makes a gun too powerful. Also, altogether, I have approximately 200 stock darts. I've finally decided on my method of making stefans, which I will also be bringing. So I guess I can cover for a few people.

Thanks a lot SHA, you've really helped me a lot with this!

The cheater in me pictures me running around with an RF20 fully charged accross my back (good use of 20 ammo pieces) waving my sword, and claming immunity from anyone shooting at me via the

You may not shoot a player who is in hand to hand combat, but you may join in the hand to hand combat.

rule. Is the spirit of this rule to encourage fencing? If you come at me with a sword, am I not allowed to Indiana Jones you with my holstered Nitefinder?

If you read closely, you would have seen the rule stating you are not in hand to hand combat until you exchange first blows with an enemy. So if you're charging at anyone, yet they may pull an Indiana Jones and shoot you in the face with a missle for all I care. It's a good thing everyone only has 21 shots, cause they run out fast and then need to keep alive with melee weapons.

Also, players may join in the hand to hand combat with their own weapons once it's begun. Ranged support is necessary to help keep your allies alive longer. So even if the enemy is stalling, waiting for support, if he doesn't take definitive action quickly, he's going to be sliced down.

The assassins rules need a little revising. Why can't non-assassins win? What is the point of forming an alliance when you can't win? Can the assassins be fought off some way I didn't read?

Everyone is a non-assassin and an assassin at the same time. You win by not being killed long enough for your assassin to be killed by their own. You can make an alliance with your assassin's assassin for mutual protection. You protect them from their assassin while they hunt down yours.

Needs a lot of revision, shouldn't be so strict about ammo either, i use up at least a full of darts every big war i go to.

I am strict on ammo for a reason. Since this war includes hand to hand combat, I want players to eventually have to leave cover and use their sword. The reason I chose 21 shots is because I considered 3 Mavericks, with an extra shot for each. No reason why, I just felt like it.

I have to add in touching someone with a loaded barrel for a close shot. I forgot about it because usually if you're getting that close to someone in an indoor fight, they'd know.

Hey, I'm looking for some input from all of you experienced Nerfers and Nerfettes.

I've written up a nice long page of rules and I'd like to know what you guys think of it. Now, I know many of you dissaprove of having hand to hand combat with foam swords included in a Nerf War, but many of my friends are LARPers or sparr with bokens and LARP weaponry, so I'm trying to include that. I've also tried to balance it all out. I'll take any harsh criticisms, but please don't be needlessly so, cause I'm a softy underneath my rabid foamthirsty exterior.

There will be around 20 players.

You can find the rules here: http://yazz.mysite.com/

I came to this mod because I had broken the front part of the plunger on one of my night finders, but after finding this out, I did it to my other NF as well.

As you know you can unscrew the plunger head off of the spring stick, if you do you can pull apart the two plastic parts that, with the o-ring, make up the plunger head. Now you can throw away the screw and front plastic part. (Screw is too short to use with this mod)

Then at Home Depot you can buy from the toilet section a fluidmaster seal (242). A replacement seal for fluidmaster 400A fill valve. They come in a red and green package.
Then go to the screw and bolt section and get machine #4-40x3/4" round head slotted 8 pcs. 27461 pack (green).

Now take the seal. The side that has the nipple will be facing out; the other side will be facing the back plastic part. You need to trim the lip off of the seal and cut the corners off of the plug on the side facing the plastic back. Also cut off the nipple.

Now take the screw and put three bolts on it. Then push it in the rubber part. Then put the parts together, going seal, o ring, back plastic part. Then screw it back on the spring stick. You’re good to GO!

Now you have a plunger that handles getting hit and now has a double seal. Also it allows you to use a stronger spring with out breaking the plunger head.

(Sorry about no pictures but I left my camera back at college, I am on spring break)

I know this is a very old post, but this sounds like an interesting idea. How was preformance? What were your ranges? Was there any friction?

Damn! $20 for shipping to Canada... That makes the 10% pretty much useless for me. Oh well, nice going for giving back to the Nerf community.

I was just in Montreal last week.
The strippers over at Super sexe are nasty and wild.

Hey, French girls gotta be useful for something.

You should have dropped by Sexe Cite and bought something fun.


Woah... wait... last week you say? What day did you check out the strippers? I have a lady friend who happened to have ended up on stage to have some fun... Now... you wouldn't happen to be the guy who stuffed a 20 into her thong, would you?

I've looked on Frappr to no avail. I'm certain there must be SOME Montreal Nerfers who frequent this forum besides me.

I've planned an indoor Nerf war once before in a community center gym where participants had to pay 20 bucks to get in (to pay off the rental fee). I would have returned any excess money that I would have left over, but I ended up needing every buck I got because of last minute bailers. I supplied most of the guns free of charge because most of the players had never Nerfed before, but were all enthusiasts of mock fighting. The twist to this is that I included Boffo weaponry in the war. That means you get your good old Nerfy gun goodness AND you get a sword/katana, warhammer, battle axe, mace, flail, nunchuks.... etc.

I'll be planning another this summer, this time with hand-throwable weapons like foam kunai/shurikens.

So yeah, anyone who's over 16 years old around Montreal can come if they give me advance notice. I'm aiming for the 8th of June. The reason for the age limit is because anyone under 16 would be overpowered and more easily hurt by the Boffo weaponry.

Also, since I'm expecting a larger turn out this time than 8 people, and I would rather everyone that comes not lose my darts, I would like it to still be an indoor war, but in a much larger gymnasium. If anyone in Montreal knows of a big gym where you can fit around 20 people for a Nerf War, please let me know ASAP.

Also, let me know what you guys think. The first war I planned went along perfectly, more so than I had even hoped, with the Boffo weapons included (something most of the players were more familiar with). I had only Boffo games, only Nerf games, some games which included both with rules to balance out the ability to use the Boffo weaponry and not die in a rain of foam.

Just wanted to post the video from the war.

Couldn't think of any good music to use, so I left the original audio intact.

Yazz's Montreal Nerf War (Winter 07/08)

There were photos too... But they all came out too dark, and my cameramen are pathetic. Terrible pictures.

I had a short look-around on your site, and I don't really understand the difference between making your katana and your longsword.

I host Nerf Wars in Montreal with guns and swords. It's pretty easy to manage both with holsters and 'sheaths'. I also have combat conversion rules which state you cannot shoot people in H2H (which starts when two swords hit each other). This prevents shooters from creeping up behind people focused on a sword duel and point blank shooting them in the head.

Anyhow, I'm a foam-smith as well, I'll make a new topic later.

Tira's Ringblade from Soul Calibur 4:




My battle-ready foam version:



Not exact, but the resemblance is great in my opinion, not to mention how sturdy this thing is compared to the metal version (where the blades are all separate). I combined the point blades at their base, increased the thickness of the thin blade around the ring, and lifted the smallest point blade higher so that you can use the little area seen in the metal version as a hand grip.

I'm not decorating it right now, once a weapon is battle-ready, its not a priority anymore so I can move on to making more stuff.

Using this at a Nerf War would be horrendously difficult XD.
NOTE: DON'T THROW IT. That will never end well.

Any comments, advice or criticism appreciated.

Those are awesome. I would love to come to one of your wars.

Anyone from the Haven is invited to. The next one is during the summer, either June or July. No set date yet, I see what's best for everyone around Montreal who comes.

If I have a large turn out (50+), I'll use a larger gym and charge players $15 entrance, $3 to rent a foam weapon.

I also take requests if anyone wants to see something realized. My next project is making a Ringblade from Soul Caliber. You don't need to pay me to make it, you'd only have to pay me to own it. XD

One more thing I think people might find nice... The Chocobo Keyblade. Commissioned for someone's Christmas present, $40 (was feeling generous).

Those are amazing! Could you make a writup on cutting and handling the foam?

Well I use a lot of different techniques for cutting foam. Most of my weapons now use open cell foam bordered by closed cell foam. This has the effect of softening hits even more and stopping the degradation of the open cell foam because of the closed cell foam restricting how far it compresses against the pvc core.

I'll put up a tutorial on how to make a rush sword, which is good enough to fight with, but isn't nearly as pretty as any of these weapons.

Before I ask my question I'll start by saying that I know you said you wouldn't be doing writeups for unique weapon builds. Does that mean you would be opposed to doing a little how to video for a basic sword or something of the like? I've made foam weapons before but never have I seen such craftsmanship!

Amazing work! Can't wait to see more!

Haha, thanks for the compliments. I do plan to do some writeups and maybe video how-tos for basic swords. I'll be doing one for a two sided rush-sword and one for a flat blade (I'll need to find something worth doing, I don't like using flat foam for generic swords).


xtremejumpy, I could make a Gordan Freeman Crowbar, but it would have to be scaled up quite a bit for proper padding, which would ruin the fun of having a Gordon Freeman Crowbar... It'd be more like having a Gordon Freeman Bent Log. XD
Giant chainsaw would be doable. The engine casing would be made from rubber matting, designing how to make that would be interesting in itself.

Meh. A (or several) shuriken would be cool though.

Windmill Shuriken

As cool as making that would be, it's nearly impossible for me to make battle-ready. I could make a weapon that looks like it and all, but it wouldn't stand up to any beating.

I do have a 3 foot end-to-end windmill-esque shuriken sketched out, but it'll be more costly and even less practical than the Ringblade. The Ringblade is being sold for 60 dollars for the girlfriend of the guy who bought the Red Queen.


HOWEVER,
I have made small shuriken. a couple different kinds, weighted in their tips with lead shot fishing weights embedded in the foam. The fly pretty well and are fun. I sell those for 2-3 dollars a pop. I actually made a Pac-Man shuriken when I had some left over foam from another project that resembled him.

Rise, my thread.... RISE!!!!

Anyhow, back on topic, my current project is Tira's Ringblade from Soul Calibur.



It's about a 1/3rd done right now, but you can guess what it'll end up looking like. (Hint: Awesome)

There's 3 handles along the loop in front of each large outcropping of blade. It's solid and there's no chance of it hitting anyone because of the foam sticking out around it. This isn't such a strong loop that it can support your weight if you lean on it, but it'll stay rigid if struck with a sword and is very fun to spin it on your arm. It's too heavy to use as an actual hula hoop, unless you've got a super-pelvis.

More pics when I'm done.

Next few projects are Halo Gravity Hammer, Sephiroth's 9 foot 4 inch sword, 5 foot long Mace, WoW Warglaive of Azzinoth (iffy), and The Banhammer. Some people like to call the Gravity Hammer the Banhammer, but I'm going to make an oversized cartoony mallet with the word BANNED on its front.

Woo!