Yes... this is why I made an anti-personnel rifle...

Drop the boxes before someone replicates my rifle and drops you.

Bondo can be smoothed out and painted any color.

Sistermol, search it on google.

I'm glad you used my mod. You need to make some Stefans, bro. I used 1.5" 3/0 weighted Stefans in my pistol to test it. Make sure that there is no air escaping and everything is secure. These pistols really aren't thumpers, so 53 feet with a stock dart is really good. You'll get a lot better results with Stefans. If you have any more questions, feel free to PM me.

Bondo. I've used Bondo for custom grips on several guns. I've read in gun magazines about pro shooters putting Bondo on their guns and wrapping their hands around it to make a custom fit pistol grip. It works quite well.

Most impressive. How do you afford this fortune in firearms?

I sold off some stuff on eBay that I got at an auction. A couple summers ago I sold a lotta' junk at the flea market and racked up some cash there. I sell and trade my Nerf guns to get money. I also sell and trade some of my other guns not in my Pre-45 collection. I had a good deal of money until recently when hard times hit. I probably won't buy any more guns for a while unless they're under $150. My dad also has a Curio and Relics FFL so that saves me the price of registration and dealer charge which is usually $25-$35.

No, I don't have an AR-15 (civilian M-16)... yet.

Talio and TIS, well done on keeping idiots off here.

Thanks, guys.

All my modern stuff is in the very back of the gun safe. I'll dig them out later and gets pics up.

I just wanted to show everyone my personal collection of Pre-1945 military firearms. These are all the rifles that I've either bought myself, paid on, or was given to me. This is the real arsenal.

Weapons of WWI (starting from the top)



1891 Mosin Nagant: Chambered for the 7.62x54 cartridge. It was manufactured in 1915 by the Izhevsk Arsenal to supply the Russian Army during WWI.
1910 Lebel Berthier: Originally made in the early 1900s, the Berthier rifle was a 3 shot bolt action rifle that supplied French troops. In 1910, however, the Berthiers were modified to accept a 5 round charger clip (pictured) and a box magazine installed. It was chambered for 8mm Lebel. This rifle was manufactured in 1916.
Short, Magazine Lee Enfield Mark 3: This rifle was a modification of the original Lee Metford Rifle. It was chambered for .303 British and had a 10 round magazine. These rifles supplied British Soldiers through both WWI and WWII. This rifle was made in 1917.
1895 Nagant Revolver: Chambered in the odd 7.62 Nagant, this revolver was cutting edge technology. When cocked, the cylinder moves forward and interlocks with the barrel to create a gas seal to keep the gases from going out the sides, therefore increasing the velocity. The cylinder held 7 rounds, which is a departure from the standard 6 shots of most revolvers. This is a double action officer's model made in 1916 by the Tula Arsenal. It remained in service with the Russians up until the late 1960s.
C1896 Mauser Broomhandle:

This probably my favorite handgun of all times. It was made in 1910 for the German Army. It was chambered for the .30 Mauser cartridge. It was never officially adopted by the Germans, but many officers bought their own to use as sidearms. It had a magazine capacity of 10 rounds. This pistol was the basis for Han Solo's gun in the Star Wars movies.


Weapons of WWII (starting from the top)



Type 99 Arisaka: This rifle was an upgrade of the Type 38 rifle. The rifle was based on the German K98 Mauser. It supplied Japanese Regulars through WWII. It was chambered for 7.7 Japanese. It was a unique rifle because it was fitted with a monopod for prone firing and an anti-aircraft sight so a soldier could target enemy planes.
K98 Mauser: These were the backbones of the German Army. The K98 was a modification of the original 1898 Mauser rifle of WWI. It was chambered for 8mm Mauser. This rifle was made in 1942 and was captured in Russia. The Mauser action is the basis for many of the modern bolt action rifles in use by hunters and shooters today.
Short, Magazine Lee Enfield Mark 3: Description above.
Number 4 Mark 1, Short, Magazine Lee Enfield: An improved version of the Mark 3 rifle. It supplied the British Army in WWII. It was chambered for the .303 round and was made in 1942 at the Fazakerley Arsenal.


Japanese Collection (starting from the top)



Officer's Sword: The Samurai mentality remained in the Japanese Arsenal even through the days of WWII. This sword is razor sharp and has shark skin handles.
Japanese "Meatball" Flag: Many patriotic Japanese soldiers carried these flags on their rifles. This flag was signed by all the members of a particular Japanese Army unit. It is made of silk.
Type 99 Bayonets: Long sword style bayonets for the Type 38 and Type 99 rifles.
Type 99 Arisaka: Description above.
Japanese Currency: Different types of Japanese currency from WWII.
Clock out of a Zero aircraft: This clock was taken off the instrument panel of a downed Zero aircraft. It is pictured by the Japanese currecny.
Type 14: This pistol was based on the German Luger. It was chambered in 8mm Nambu and was an officer's pistol. This pistol was made in 1939.
Type 94: These pistols were for tank crews and pilots. They were called "Suicide Pistols" because it had an exposed sear and could accidentally be fired without pulling the trigger. It was also chambered for 8mm Nambu. The first pistol was made in 1941 and the second was made in 1944.
Field Glasses: Used by officers, tank and artillery crews, and pilots.


U.S. Weapons (staring from the top)



M1 Garand: Designed by John Garand and was adopted in 1936 to replace the rugged 1903 Springfield. It was chambered for 30-06 and used an 8 shot clip. This rifle was manufactured in December of 1941. It was the standard U.S. rifle through the Korean War. Pictured is the bayonet and the Mills pattern ammunition belt circa 1940.
1917 Enfield: Originally designed to replace the British Mark 3 Enfield, it was designated as the P-14 and was chambered in .303. The U.S. slightly modified the rifle and rechambered it to 30-06. It was used in WWI and through WWII. This rifle was made in 1918 by Remington.
1898 Krag Carbine: The Krag rifle was the first magazine fed, smokeless powder rifle adopted by the U.S. in 1892. It was originally designed for the Norwegian Army in 1889. It used a 30-40 cartridge and was loaded via a vertical magazine on the side. The carbine version was issued to cavalry, most notably used by Teddy Roosevelt's Rough Riders at San Juan Hill in the Spanish-American War. It remained in service for only 11 years because of the advent of the 1903 Springfield. This rifle was made in 1898 by the Springfield Armory.
Also pictured: At the top left is a Colt 1911 .45 holster circa 1943. Across from it is a "Pineapple" grenade and a "Lemon" grenade.
M1 Carbine:

Designed by David "Carbine" Williams while he served time in jail, this rifle was designed for artillery and machine gun crews, medics, and other people who needed a lightweight weapon. When WWII broke out, this rifle made it to the front lines because of its small size and easy of use. It was chambered for the .30 Carbine round. This rifle was made in 1943 by Standard Products. It's pictured with a stock mounted double magazaine pouch circa 1943 and an M3 flash suppressor.

I have more guns, like the FN-FAL, Russian and Chinese SKSes, an Albainian AK-47 and others, but they don't fall into the Pre-1945 category which is where my primary interest lie. I hope you've enjoyed my collection. Feel free to ask questions and post pictures of your firearms.

Um... check out my clip fed guns for help:

Artemis Arms Mountain Rifle
Artemis Arms T-26 Carbine Mk. 1

Renegade and ompa have also made successful clip designs.

Artemis Arms is my modification and consulting company. I give advice to modders and will also modify their Nerf weapons to their specifications.

The company is pretty much me, my girlfriend (when she's in the Nerfing mood), and my buddy Bill (who will be the webmaster of the new website). The website will be opening soon. It won't have forums, but rather galleries of custom guns, my modification services, and a Q&A column for advice to modders of all levels. The forums are taken care of here at NH and over on TINH.

I'm all for modifying your own guns, but some people don't have the tools to do it, so I offer my modification services at a very reasonable price. There are no limits to the mods I can perform. From routine replacement barrel installations to installing a magazine system on a gun, Artemis Arms does it all.

I hope to get this thing rolling soon.

Um... but shields are really retarded. No one is going to lug around a wooden shield, especially to protect them from foam darts.

Anyway, back on the subject of the rifle, I forget to say that I installed a thick plastic straw instead of a BIC pen. That, as you know, allows the air to be released quicker.

I dunno if covering cardboard with stuff would shield the rounds. I'm guessing it'll show them down, but won't stop them completely.

Disregard.

My question, however, is what effect does it have on corrugated cardboard at various ranges,for cardboard is the prime material for shield making.

Answer your question?

At 25 feet with 26 pumps, I fired 4 shots. 3 rounds hit my target. 2 rounds punched completely through, whereas the other did not, but rather got stuck.

Thank you for your kind words.

Thanks. Eh... the ROF is around 5, I'd guess. Maybe 6. I'm not sure, but I'll figure it out later.

After reading that some nuts on NHQ were using shields of made of cardboard and styrofoam, I began to think, "What would I do if I saw some idiot with a shield or body armor like that?" Well, I found the answer; a high powered anti-personnel rifle.

Seeing that our fine sharpshooters in Iraq were equipped with Barret Arms .50 calibers, I wanted to produce a magazine fed (removable magazine), high powered, big bore, long range rifle. What I came up with was the Artemis Arms Mk. 1 "Mountain Rifle." Here's what I did:



I modified my Titan by removing the air restrictors and plugging the over release valve, just routine things. I then cut a piece of 1/2" PVC at a length of 1.5'. I took that piece of PVC and cut out a breech wide and long (1.5"x2.25") enough to fit a mega dart. Next I glued that barrel to my Titan. Nothing new there.

I then found a nice piece of orange plastic tubing that fit my 1/2" PVC well. I cut a 4 inch piece of this to use as my bolt. I installed the new bolt to my barrel. What I had now was essentially a big bore single shot breech loader.

I next found a piece of a black tube off an old model Blast Bazooka. I Dremeled out a bolt channel and cut my magazine port on the bottom. I then glued on this black piece (we'll call it my "shroud") to my Titan. Finally for this step, I glued on my bolt, which is made of a 4 inch piece of dowel rod, to my bolt.



Finally, I made my magazine. I used a cassette tape case. The case's width is perfect for micros, but I had to widen it a bit to fit my mega darts. I needed a spring. I managed to make a spring from an old grandfather clock coil spring. I hammered it out flat and use a blow torch to heat it up so I could bend it in a "zig-zag" shape. I used several popsicle sticks glued together to make my magazine follower. To keep the magazine attached to the Titan, I made two small clips out of aluminum sheeting. I glued these to the bottom of the Titan. On my magazine, I Dremeled a shallow channels that the aluminum clips will slide into to hold it in place. To remove the magazine, merely lift the aluminum plate clips and pull the magazine straight down. The capacity on the magazine is 5 rounds.

To load the rifle, push the bolt forward and pull it back. This allows one round to be loaded into the chamber.



Data

Range

I didn't get to shoot a lot of rounds outside, but I had a chance to squeeze off 10 rounds. Here's what I got:

Ammo: 2" Mega stefans with 3/0 weight
Rifle primed to 25 pumps.

163.3'
165.8'
154.2'
150.6'
167.4'
164.7'
149.1'
158.5'
164.2'
159.9'

Long: 167.4'
Short: 149.1'
Avg: 159.77'

I also did some testing to demonstrate the power of this gun. Observe:

At 40 feet, I made Swiss cheese of this piece of .5" thick styrofoam with 20 pumps.


At 25 feet, I hit this hefty block of 1.5" styrofoam three times blowing sizeable holes in it. I primed the rifle with 25 pumps.


At 25 feet, I hit this piece of cardboard 3 out of 4 times. It punched through twice and penetrated enough to get one round stuck about half way through.




Using the mega darts in this rifle allows for a heavier round. A heavier round is less likely to be disturbed by wind during its flight path. The mass of the round also gives an extra punch that a smaller micro dart lacks.

As you can see, this is one heck of a gun. To shoot an "unarmored" target under 70 feet would probably inflict abundant pain. One could also honestly drop a target out at 120-130 feet with ease. Any armored target under 70 feet would be dead meat. I'm currently working on making at least two more magazines for the rifle. So, once I can get those finished, I believe this will be a very deadly weapon. And yes... I realize that most people would ban this rifle from a war, but it's still pretty neat.

Hope you've enjoyed a Starbuck/Noid modification.

I was about to say... Tech Target springs, the one that is nice and fat and chrome, is a nice stock spring. I have a broken TT so I used that in the new Nite Finder. The new NF springs are quite flimsy in my opinion. But notice, I'm consistently hitting the 60s, not the 70s everytime. Look at its average.

Thanks for your compliments.

Most Nite Finders that have been modified are chambered for the micro sized dart. I have actually seen none chambered for the heftier mega, but heard of one that does use a Nite Finder chambered for the bigger round. I personally like mega darts in my sidearms as the darts are not easily deterred by wind and packs a considerable punch.

I decided to create a mega dart firing sidearm from one of my 6 Nite Finders. Here is what I did:

First, I disassembled the gun. I removed all the air restrictors just like all other Nite Finder modifications.



Here, I glued together the plunger ring and plunger tube cap.


Next, I glued my ring and cap into the plunger tube. Make absolutely sure that everything is glued in sturdy because this could cause your tube to fail later on after use. I then installed a four inch 1/2" PVC barrel by gluing it tightly to the end of the plunger tube. I then wrapped the barrel in electrical tape just to add security. I also added electrical tape to the barrel for cosmetic reasons.

On the shell of the Nite Finder, I Dremeled off the round barrel holder. You can see the barrel holder Dremeled off in the picture below. Next, I Dremeled out the barrel port (where the barrel comes out of the shell) big enough for my 1/2" PVC. Note, the spring I used for this Nite Finder is from a Tech Target pistol.



Here is the final result:




Range

Ammo: 2" 3/0 weighted mega stefans
Long: 75.4 feet
Short: 59.11 feet
Avg: 65.7 feet


The Artemis Arms Bulldog is an accurate sidearm that is rugged and consistent. The range is not that of a micro firing sidearm, but when does a Nerfer engage a target with his sidearm that would require him to exceed 60 feet? The range is compensated by the wallop of its heavier round and its accuracy.

I'm not taking credit as the first to install a mega dart barrel on to a Nite Finder, but I noticed the lack of a write up. As always, feel free to PM me with questions and comments. I hope you've enjoyed yet another Starbuck/Noid modification.

I made a sweet gun.  I don't have any HOTT picz.  I used by old cock pump, and taped some stefans to it.

Your name says it all...

And I don't think I want to use a cock pump on my next gun, either.

Yeah, I've been doing this for a while. They shoot pretty good. I've always called them "Royal Flyers." Don't ask where the name comes from...

But, anyway, they shoot great in brass barrels.

Well, I know... but I'm sayin' my collection is one of my happy places. We'd better buckle down for the winter.

*grinds teeth together and waits for onslaught*





Even happier place... or on a beach with me gal...

I like where you're going with it. Just clean it up a bit and it should be nice. You might also want to think of another grip scheme for it. The grips will no doubt be the hardest to fabricate.


There's a picture of my personal C96 Broomhandle. Hope it helps.

Indeed, IS, it works. Here's a picture that I drew on paint. It's what the gun looks like without tape on it. I'm sorry for not taking pictures while I was building it, I didn't have batteries for my digital camera.





I drove a pin through the SM250 grips and installed a trigger. On the trigger is a flat piece of metal that pushes against a rod that in turn pushes against the trigger on the AutoGrip tube. It's really a quite simple design. Hope that helps.

Also, if possible, cut down on all that electrical tape on the barrel. If the upper were metallic and cleaner, it would be BEAUTIFUL.

Still, that's a fine looking nerf gun.

Well, obviously this would be ideal, however not possible. There are parts and such that are held by the tape and that mere glue and paint could not hide/hold. Not until I introduce my second model Luge (a work in progress; I plan to build a modular Luger) will that be done. This was basically a prototype/ one of a kind replica.

Yes, it's wrapped in e-tape. It looks identical to the way it was.

I've updated the Luger slightly. I've replaced the CPVC barrel with a brass one. This gives it more range on every shot. I can tell a considerable difference in the power since the new barrel was installed.

Looks great, my only comment really is that your handle looks a little skinny compared to the real thing... From what I remember from seeing one (I've got to look and hold one) Maybe its just me...

Anyway looks awesome

It's not supposed to be the real McCoy, but close. It's my interpreation of a Luger done Nerf style. The grips are skinnier than a real Luger's because I used a SM250 frame. I said it's nearly on a 1:1 ratio.

I have the means to manufacture more. If I can get enough interest, I might be willing to make some and sell limited numbers of them...

Here's an update:



It's a close-up of the grips and screws.

Piney, as I'm sure you know, the Rugers were modelled after the Lugers/Nambus. I have an AMT version of the Ruger .22. I love that thing!

It does look incredibly close to a real gun. If one wanted to take it into public, an orange end cap would have to be applied.

The driving force behind this replica is my passion for military weaponry. I don't have $2500 to lay down for an original Naval Artillery Luger. I just laid down $600 for a C96 Mauser and $300 for a 30-40 Krag carbine.

Thank you for your compliments.

I am a huge fan of original military pistols and rifles. I've been collecting them for several years now. Over the past couple of years, I've fallen in love with the old sinister German auto-loading pistols, the C1896 .30 calibre Mauser Broomhandle and the P-08 9mm DWM Luger (I bought a C96 Mauser back in the summer). After seeing King Kong at the theater last weekend and seeing the captain of the Venture kill a native with his P-08 Luger Artillery pistol, I decided I was going to make a Nerf replica.

The P-08 Long barrel "Artillery" Luger was intended for the crews of German artillery and Naval officers during World War 1. It had an incredible 8 inch barrel and was very sleek for its time (and still is!).

So, I printed off pictures of Lugers and went AWOL in my basement and produced this pistol. For your conveniece I've put pictures of real Lugers under mine for comparison purposes.



















This one of a kind replica was made using a hodge podge of parts. I used my Boomstick (formerly an Autogrip), a SuperMaxx250, and other random parts and springs.

As you can see, friends, I've spent much time time on the details of this pistol. The sights are as close as I can get them. I used the back sight off of an old BB rifle to simulate the adjustable sight of the original. The front sight is crafted after the original. The grips were hand crafted from walnut wood and stained with Minwax walnut stain. You can't see it in the picture, but beneath the grips, I put in screws to hold the grips, just like the original.

The barrel is a whopping 8 inches long, just like the original. As a matter of fact, the whole pistol is on a nearly 1:1 ratio of the original!

It's not all for looks, folks. It's a fully functional sidearm. Since the pistol was constructed of my Autogrip Boomstick, the ranges are as follow:

Long: 85'
Short: 74'
Avg: 79.3’

This is the first weapon in a line of real life weapons I will be recreating here in the coming months. As always, questions and comments are welocme. I hope you've enjoyed another Starbuck/Noid creation!

Thanks, LDM. If it had been an all original SM1k, I probably wouldn't have touched it.

But how does the whole stripper clip work? How does the clip advance? When you pull the bolt handle? I'm really confused about that. Could this be used with other guns?

TS

To quote an unknown person on an unknown webpage:

"The loaded stripper clip is placed over the receiver ,you press down on the cartridges stripping them out of the clip and into the gun's magazine. The rounds slide off the clip into the magazine."

The clip itself does not go into the magazine. It just guides the rounds into the magazine. The clip is expendable. Once the rounds are in the magazine, there is not need for the clip.

I packed me' bags and handed in my admin badge before the brouhaha occured. I don't really know what happened to it other than Hal just never really Nerfed and he wanted to start his business or whatever.

I use .30 caliber machine gun ammo cans for my loose rounds. Per can it'll hold 120 micros or 95 megas. I use .50 cal cans for my belted rounds for both my Razorbeasts. They're quite nifty.

Thank you.

I am not really caught up on my gun termenology. How does the stripper clip work? It sounds (and looks like) the casset tape peices that the darts are in couldn't work with the breach. Fill me in, thanks.

A stripper clip is merely a clip of metal that holds the cartrides. You insert the stripper clip into the top of the reciever and push the shells down into the magazine. For instance look at this M91 Mosin Nagant rifle being loaded:



See the metal clip? That's the stripper clip. You just push the rounds into the magazine. The whole purpose, Weasel, is to speed reloading time by inserting 5 cartridges at once rather than one cartridge.




With my carbine, simply insert the plastic stripper clip into the loading port and push the rounds into the breech, which takes them into the magazine. I know the picture is fuzzy, my apologies.


See the similarities between my stripper clip system and the one of an M91 Mosin Nagant?




This makes loading much easier.

Um... the pump is the black tube above the barrel... on top...


Edit: For some of you noobs out there who have no clue what a SuperMaxx 1000 is, here is a pic of an unmodded one:

I've taken a hiatus from modding for a while, so I'll open my workshop back up with this incredible new modification to an already classic gun.

I've owned a SuperMaxx 1000 before, and let me tell you, it is a mighty weapon. When modded right, it's a nearly perfect long range assault rifle. I saw a SuperMaxx 1000 that was missing quite a few parts for sale on NHQ and so I seized the opportunity to buy it for a mere $4. I looked high and low for a broken SM1k to get the parts to restore mine, however I never found quite what I was looking for. So, I put it away in a box to use the air tank on a future mod or homemade. Well, I just recently found it and decided to do something about the poor crestfallen warrior. Here is what I did:

What I had was essentially half a gun. No rotating drum magazine. No barrel. No pump handle. Just the back half of the gun. I had to completely rebuild the trigger and airtank mechanism, but it was worth the time and shot better than when it was new. I noticed that the space where the six-shot drum was once housed would make a novel place for a magazine.

I sat down right away and drew up a magazine system for my new SM1k. What I came up with was from the military bolt action rifles of yesteryear. I designed an internal 3 shot box magazine to be loaded from stripper clips. I got to work on it and using a cassette tape case, I made a magazine. I used popsicle sticks to reinforce the casing walls. The follower is also made of popsicle sticks. On the bottom of the follower, I put another popsicle stick sticking out through the left side casing. This is used to pull the follower down for easier loading. I used a very light spring from a trigger on an old SM3k for the follower spring.


Here, you see the starting gun plus the box magazine installed.


Pictured above is the follower handle. For easier loading, push down and hold while loading rounds in the magazine.

Next, I installed the barrel and bolt. The barrel is quite an oddity. I found the barrel in my basement. It is about a foot long and fits my micro Stephans better than PETG, brass, or CPVC. I'm not sure what it is exactly, maybe some kind of tube my dad used, but I'd love to stumble upon more. I cut a breech into the back of the barrel. I was looking for something that fit over the barrel, but 1/2" PVC was too small for its outside diameter. I was going through a box when I found the cut off barrel of an old SM5k (the blue arrow barrel). I slid this over and it was the perfect match. It slid easy, but also was air tight.



Next, I put on a barrel shroud. I found a piece off an old toy rifle that was about 6.5" long and cylindrical. I cut a channel in it for my bolt handle that I would later add and glued it to the front. I also put on a new pump handle. I jammed a piece of dowel rod down the pump plunger and plued it in. I then put a piece of 1/2" CPVC over the dowel rod and glue it on and wrapped it in electrical tape. Finally, I put the trigger button off of an SSPB to the end for an end cap.



Then, I added my bolt handle. It's a 2.5" piece of dowel rod wrapped in electrical tape and securely glued on.



To construct the stripper clips, I used pieces of the cassette tape cases. I Dremeled off the side of the tape case and found that my micro darts fit perfect in this. They fit it tight, but slide easy when pushed.



To load the carbine, push the bolt forawrd. This opens the breech. Next, pull down the followed using the handle on the left side. Then, insert the stripper clip into the right side loading port. Now simply push the three rounds into the magazine. Close the bolt and pump two and a half times.



Here's the final result:



The ranges are fantastic. I'm hitting well over the century mark on every shot using 2" Stephans. The average distance out of 20 shots was 105.6 feet. The long is 116'4" not angled. Angled it hit 123'6". Not too shabby for what was once half a gun.

The accuracy is pinpoint. I can stand all day and consistently hit a 2'X2' target at 60 feet.

The rate of fire it excellent. I can squeeze off all three shots in under seven seconds. The reloading time isn't bad, either. I can load it in under three seconds.

The only drawback is the rare jam. Over the past two days of firing, it has jammed on me two times. To remedey this, just grab the left side follower handle and jiggle it. Really, two jams is not that bad, especially when the fix is only a flick of a lever. The magazine is going to left clear so one can make sure a jam has cleared if it indeed does jam.

I believe my carbine to be the first internal box magazine fed Nerf weapon. I am also positive it is the first to use a stripper clip system. I'll eventually get around to painting it, as well. I think this is a wonderful modification to restore and reinvent a legendary gun. I suppose it is really a poor man's F.A.R.

As always, feel free to ask questions. I hope you have enjoyed another Starbuck/Noid modification.

A while back, I'm talking back in the days on Nerf Online... I made a full auto. Keep in mind that this was before the Wildfire and the closest thing to full auto was a Razorbeast or Chainblazer. Everyone thought I was lying because I has no pictures to back it up, but I made it and here's how.

I used the standard Nerf ammo belt used in chain guns. I used the rotator off of a broken Chainblazier. I used a motor off of an old RC car to rotate the belt. The air source was a small rechargeable air compresser, like one you keep incase your tire goes flat. I put all the electronics and the compresser into a wooden case. The case was pretty much a box that was 10 inches high and 1.5 feet long. The switch to the compresser stuck out of a hole cut in the side of the box. On the back was the trigger, which was a switch that turned on the motor to rotate the chain. On front, I attached a 2 foot section of 4" PVC. I mounted it a heavy duty camera tripod. The overall look of the gun was that of an old Maxim machine gun, like so:



The range wasn't great; on a good day it would hit 35-40, but the cool thing was that is would spit the foam. I wasn't trying to make a pratical gun, just something to mess around with.

Desperate times call for desperate measures...

I'd probably arm myself with our FN-FAL .308 with ten 20 round mags with hollow point rounds or a sawed off Remington 1100 12 gauge using double 00 buckshot, my c96 Broomhandle .30 Mauser with lead cast slugs as my backup, my Ka Bar kife, two way radio, rations, and a banana. Anyone ever seen Monty Python's Self-Defense Class? If you have, you know what I mean with the banana.

However with the advent of the Powerclip and RF20, the days of the Razorbeast have been invalidated. Both the RF20 and Pwerclip have much faster rates of fire, and are a lot easier to find than a razorbeast.

The ROF for a PC or RF20 is staggering, however, the priming time on one of those is rediculous, especially the RF20. The PC can be used with multiple clips, but still 12 or so pumps are required. With a modded RzB (utilizing a chain with CPVC inserts), there is no priming time. Just load on your belt o' ammo and keep rolling. I've made modifications to the RzB that virtually eliminates all jamming problems.

As far as the East Tennessee outdoor war goes, the RzB is adequate for base defence. I'm hitting over 60' feet with mine (mirco modded and using Stephans). It's also great to ambush several people with. The ROF is pretty good. I can unload a belt of 40 rounds in under 10 seconds.

In my opinion, I really like the RzB.