Roschili's Content

#335682 Barricade or Stryfe

Posted by Roschili on 27 November 2013 - 06:47 PM in Modifications

Probably meaning the packaging.
The stryfe is about 13 inches from stock attachment point to muzzle, you could chop off at least 3 inches from the muzzle.

Oh that's a good point, thank you for the dimensions.

Just measured my rapidstrike. From the motors to where the stock starts is roughly 10 1/2 - 11 inches. Pretty much perfect for what you need. You should be able to cut it down from the front and back just enough to get in your box. You would have to rewire a new battery tray in though because the stock one would be cut off. But that's no big deal at all.

Very interesting, I will seriously consider this idea!

Edit:

Is anyone able to get me dimensions of the barricade? I am assuming that it is also shorter than listed because of packaging.

#335672 Barricade or Stryfe

Posted by Roschili on 27 November 2013 - 08:01 AM in Modifications

I have a box that is 11.5 x 11.5 x 8 and my Stryfe fits completely inside just fine; no cutting; flaps closed.

Amazon and Walmart both list the Stryfe as being 15" long.

BenFett-
That is a very interesting idea, I will certainly look into it.

#335666 Barricade or Stryfe

Posted by Roschili on 26 November 2013 - 11:14 PM in Modifications

Ive never opened up a barricade. But I do know that in the stryfe the stock attachment houses the pole for the trigger mech return spring to attach. Cutting it off means finding a new way to make a return mech (its a giant pain in the ass, ive done it). On the stryfe you can cut off the faux barrel (muzzle). That should save you those few inches needed. There isn't anything moving or vital in the front beyond the orange motor housing. As far as pushing a button and it firing, you are going to have to use some kind of servo/actuator. But the stryfe itself is very slim (2-3 inches thick) so there should be plenty of room in the box.

I was thinking about doing something very similar to what you suggested. I hadn't noticed that the trigger spring was in the stock attachment, I don't think it is quite as close to the end on the barricade from what pictures I have seen. I am currently working on a setup involving a servo to actuate the trigger.

Thank you for the suggestions!

#335664 Barricade or Stryfe

Posted by Roschili on 26 November 2013 - 10:50 PM in Modifications

Hello. I am working on a school project which requires a Nerf Blaster that can be fired with a remote control. The blaster must be able to fire four times and fit in to a 12"x12"x12" box, 1 cubic foot. The Barricade and Stryfe seem like the two best options, but both are too big (14" and 14.9" respectively).

My question is this: Which of the two would be easier to cut to length? Can someone who owns one or both of them tell me if it reasonable to assume that I could cut 3" off of each blaster?

The competition will involve firing stock elite darts, but distance and accuracy aren't nearly as important as being able to fire. I have looked at pictures of the internals for both blasters, and it seems like it would be quite simple to shorten the barrel and perhaps cut off the part where the stock would attach.

Thanks!

#270505 At2k Turret

Posted by Roschili on 27 March 2010 - 06:42 PM in Modifications

I removed the piece shown in the picture below from the center then soaked the turret in boiling water for about 15 seconds and still could not get any barrels to come out. Am I supposed to take more out of the center of the turret or is there something else I should try? Thanks.

Posted Image

#270468 At2k Turret

Posted by Roschili on 27 March 2010 - 11:29 AM in Modifications

Dip the barrel side of the turret in boiling water of about 10 seconds. This should soften the glue and the barrels should come out.

Does the center piece need to be removed to do that? Thanks.

#270462 At2k Turret

Posted by Roschili on 27 March 2010 - 09:56 AM in Modifications

Hi, I am trying to get my AT2K turret apart so that I can do a barrel replacement with PETG. I have looked around the forums but cannot find a good way to get the turret apart. Is it a good idea to cut the turret at the line on all four barrels or is there an easy way to get them to come out. I read that you can get them to come out by removing the small piece in between the four barrels as shown in the second picture but after removing the screw I cannot get that piece out.This is what mine looks like now. Any suggestions?

Posted Image

Thank you for looking.

#269065 Doubled Recon With Twin Drums

Posted by Roschili on 13 March 2010 - 08:40 PM in Modifications

Thats looks very nice and clean, I am jealous.

#265628 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Roschili on 16 February 2010 - 02:40 PM in Darts and Barrels

I have used three different types of foam all of which got slightly bigger upon heating. I put my blanks in a pillow case in the dryer on high heat for 10 minutes and they come out very straight but slightly larger in diameter. I would recommend log home store foam it is good foam and not expensive and the stuff I have gotten from there did not shrink. My guess is that you got bad foam, maybe you got open cell instead of closed?

#265375 Reverse Plunger Dead Space Killing Method

Posted by Roschili on 14 February 2010 - 04:38 PM in Modifications

That looks really good, I am going to try this on my Recon. Could you post a picture from the other side of the plunger so I can see how far in the foam goes, or could you tell me about how long you think the foam should be for a recon. Thanks!

#263943 Magstrike Reassembly

Posted by Roschili on 31 January 2010 - 05:09 PM in Modifications

Sorry for the double post, but I got it back together the way Retiate said, thanks again. Now I am having trouble with it leaking very badly. The bladder is not expanding at all. None of the air is making it that far, but I cannot find a leak in the hose or anything. I hear the air coming out but see no problems, obviously there is one though. I took it apart and tried putting it back together and that did not help, I made sure the black bladder was all the way on but that did not make a difference. Any suggestions?

#263360 Magstrike Reassembly

Posted by Roschili on 26 January 2010 - 10:17 PM in Modifications

The bladder is pain to get screwed back down to the case. Have a person push the white piece to the screw wells while you screw it down. Everything looks like it's in the right place, it just requires some force to get back together.
And I used Plumbers Goop on my leaky Magstrike.

Awesome thank you very much!

#263310 Magstrike Reassembly

Posted by Roschili on 26 January 2010 - 06:24 PM in Modifications

Today I took my Magstrike apart to try to fix an air leak that it had. I think I fixed the leak but now I cannot get the gun back together because I cannot get the bladder in place. I do not want to force the bladder in because I do not want to break it. Below are some pictures of what I am trying to do. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong or if I am just supposed to force the white piece shown in the second picture down over the end of the bladder? Also, is the bladder just put on too far? Thanks.

Posted Image

I have one more question, what does everyone else use to fix air leaks?
Thanks again.

#261384 Dartsmithing Tips Archive

Posted by Roschili on 10 January 2010 - 02:27 PM in Darts and Barrels

I know this probably gets asked a lot but where is a good place to get colored foam, something besides gray. I know log home store sells white and mile high sells black for cheap but are there other good online sites?
Where can I get good colored hot glue? (any color)

Thanks.

For what it is worth I find it helpful to melt a small hole in the end of my stefans.

#260623 Remote Control Battle

Posted by Roschili on 03 January 2010 - 09:01 PM in General Nerf

That was an awesome video and I really liked the editing.

#232603 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 26 May 2009 - 10:03 AM in Modifications

If you open up your gun, just underneath the barrel there is a plastic column with a spring on the end. Thats the bit you want out. To do that you'll need to unscrew the piece holding it in, just to the left, and unscrew and remove the barrel. Then it will simply slide out.
Remember that I'm not guaranteeing this will work!

It is still worth a try

#232601 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 26 May 2009 - 09:52 AM in Modifications

The dart tooth is the piece that sticks up through the barrel when the bolt is anything other than fully forward. Look down the barrel and pull the slide back slightly - remove that bit.

Oh Ok, how do I get that piece out?

#232598 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 26 May 2009 - 09:30 AM in Modifications

I've heard that by simply removing the barrel tooth may let you do this, however I haven't tried it so I can't say for certain.

If I did that would the gun still work? Also I assume that is the long piece on the top of the plunger that juts out?

#232596 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 26 May 2009 - 09:01 AM in Modifications

Is there anyway to make a recon shoot all types of darts without doing a barrel replacement?

#232556 Longshot Dismantle

Posted by Roschili on 25 May 2009 - 09:42 PM in Modifications

Next time, find it best to use the Internals Directory.

The specific item for you now, is the Longshot Internals Diagram.
Note how it lists each item.

Next time, read my post before posting.
I clearly said in an earlier post that the pictures on the threads did not help me. With that being said sending me a link to the picture I have already looked at will not help me in any way.

Thanks for posting anyway.

#232465 Longshot Dismantle

Posted by Roschili on 25 May 2009 - 03:14 PM in Modifications

Where does the catch plate go?

#232455 Longshot Dismantle

Posted by Roschili on 25 May 2009 - 02:52 PM in Modifications

Ok, I got the gun open did the mods I wanted but now after reassembling I have three pieces left and I cannot tell where they go from pictures on threads, this is what I have and what my gun internals look like.

Posted Image

Thanks for looking.

#232428 Longshot Dismantle

Posted by Roschili on 25 May 2009 - 01:27 PM in Modifications

I was trying to take apart my longshot and cannot get the knobs off the sides that are used to cock the gun. Can someone explain how to get them off. I tried turning them and prying on them and neither worked. Thanks.

#232228 Crayola Barrel Making - Full Write Up

Posted by Roschili on 24 May 2009 - 02:07 PM in Modifications

Very nice guide very helpful, but I found it was easier to use a Black & Decker Wizard(basically a dremel with a cutting wheel) instead of a hack saw to cut off the piece where the ink is. Great guide very detailed and good pictures.

#229354 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 10 May 2009 - 12:50 PM in Modifications

I tried putting the eliminator in boiling water and that did not help at all. I am going to continue prying on it in hopes of getting it apart.

#229321 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 10 May 2009 - 08:42 AM in Modifications

Put the hot glue inside the spring, and while it is still warm put it back on the peg where it originally was.

Will the spring still compress like that?

#229204 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 02:06 PM in Modifications

You can try using a blowdryer to heat up the pieces and loosen the bond of the glue.

As for your second question, remove the original catch spring and replace it with a spring from a pen that is a bit longer. Then hot glue the spring on so it is harder to compress.

I tried using a blow dryer on the hottest setting and it did not help so next I will try boiling water when I get the chance. Edit, I also tried running a dremel along the seams where it was glued but I did not go deep and it didn't help any.

Thanks, where would I put the hot glue at? Just glue the end of it to the wall it compresses against?

#229197 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 12:35 PM in Modifications

Thanks guys, I also have one other question.

How do I reinforce the catch on my Buzz Bee RFR?

#229189 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 12:16 PM in Modifications

Dip the handle in boiling water for a few minutes. This may loosen up the glue holding together so that you can pry it off without otherwise damaging it.

Do this. It works.

Thanks daniel, I will try this soon and hopefully it will work. If that loosens the glue and I can just pull the gun apart will I then be able to snap the gun together again.

#229184 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 12:01 PM in Modifications

I don't want to have to e-tape my gun together because then it will be a tacky mess.

Still need suggestions for taking apart a nerf eliminator.

QUOTE(Daniel Beaver @ May 6 2009, 04:17 PM) *
Dip the handle in boiling water for a few minutes. This may loosen up the glue holding together so that you can pry it off without otherwise damaging it.

Do this. It works.

Have you done it before?
I will probably try it, how long should I keep it in water?

#229181 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 11:41 AM in Modifications

Cut off the gray part with a hacksaw.

If I do that will the gun go back together?

#229175 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 09 May 2009 - 11:10 AM in Modifications

Ok, I am still having troubles taking the gun apart and modding it. I would still like other suggestions on how to disassemble the gun. If you have done this before please post how you did it.

#228629 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 06 May 2009 - 06:29 PM in Modifications

I tried doing what soccerbeast said but I could not pull it out no matter how far I pried it up and pulled. The back of the handle also appears to be glued together or something. I was able to pry the gun far enough apart to take the plunger out so hopefully I can mod it then but it back in with having to dismantle the gun. If anyone else has suggestions on how to get the gun apart they would be appreciated.

Edit: I got the plunger out and knocked out the air restrictor and barrel post thing then put it back in the gun the best I could while prying the gun open with a screw driver. I don't think it shoots as far now and it doesn't work quite the same either. I still need to find a way to get the two pieces apart. Suggestions are appreciated, thanks to those who made suggestions.

#228624 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 06 May 2009 - 06:10 PM in Modifications

Ok cool, can you then put the shell back into the oval thing to re-assemble the gun?

#228615 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 06 May 2009 - 05:40 PM in Modifications

Actually, I found that pulling it at a 30 degree angle away from the oval looking thing gets it right out.

Could you explain this a little better? I am confused somewhat.

#228612 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 06 May 2009 - 05:36 PM in Modifications

Cut off the ring between the slide-out handle and the main gun shell.

Is that the only way to take the gun apart? Will the gun be able to go back together cleanly? Finally, what should I used to cut it off?

Thanks 1337.

#228608 Mod Questions About Eliminator

Posted by Roschili on 06 May 2009 - 05:30 PM in Modifications

Ok today I got my 4-pack of eliminators in the mail and I immediately wanted to mod them to shoot my stefans but I ran into trouble taking the gun apart. I cannot get the gun apart after I took the screws out. I took all the screws out and it did not just pop apart like other guns. I tried wedging it apart with screwdrivers but I did not apply a lot of force because I did not want to break it. Here are some pictures of what it looks like. It seems to be stuck around the handle where there is like an oval shaped piece on the bottom that the extendable grip/dart holder is. I am unsure how to get the shell apart, any advice?

Posted Image

Ok now for my other question. I have a Buzz Bee RFR and I heard it was a good idea to reinforce the catch, can someone tell me how to do this?

Thanks everyone!

#227174 Modification and Paintjob Pictures

Posted by Roschili on 29 April 2009 - 08:56 PM in Modifications

Those are both mine, I know they look similar to what other people have done.
The NF shoots about 80' and the Recon is stock minus the air restrictor.

#226477 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 27 April 2009 - 06:26 AM in Modifications

Is the barrel hard to take apart or put back together? Thanks.

#226406 Need Help Fixing My Recon

Posted by Roschili on 26 April 2009 - 09:44 PM in Modifications

Thanks. Yes, I think Krylon Fusion works very well, I used two coats and it looked really good and I have not had any problems with it wearing off. Krylon Fusion also works really well on PVC parts, my brother made a PVC t-shirt cannon and painted it with Krylon Fusion and the paint looks brand new. Do i need to take the barrel apart to paint it?

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