The only thing I've ever done conceptualizing of, but never developed that is close to this, was having two hopper tubes that had a two way valve that could be alternated between the two tube magazines. Maybe there's a way of applying this electronically and having a motor switch over a panel that exposes the two tubes individually?

The paint job looks very clean. Kudos for using a shell as a pump handle.

As for the movie guess, I'd say the kingdom.

Any chance we can get a section view to see what's going on in there?

You could always add a bigger spacer on the pin behind the first one, and reduce it on the second one. Would give you the same effect without having the tanks staggered.

Yes I could use one pump, but I would rather have 5 pumps to full pressure rather than 10. However, one of my biggest concerns is this will be WAY too hard to pump, considering the AT2K is already really difficult to pump 5 times. 
 

I think the force required to pump 2 at2k pumps would be much more than pumping one pump 10 times

The incremental innovation of the breech cutaway is awesome. Two questions, from that back facing iso view, its hard to tell if the trigger has two stages to pull the pins independently. What's the purpose of two pumps? Will you have one pump handle?

If you have any ideas on how to do this, I'm all ears. It's been eluding me for the past few hours.

I feel like if there was a realistic and simple way to connect two tanks to the same trigger, but pull their pins on two distinct pulls, Hasbro would have had the solution years ago. I'd say at this point, the best option is making the trigger pull easier so it will be easier to pull each pin independently on a single pull. You could try making the trigger pull lever action on the pins. I'm pretty sure the splitfire trigger works from this motion anyway. You'd have to move the pump forward much more/ cut down the pump shaft and tube probably to give the trigger enough room to complete that motion.

Thanks for the shoutout! The plunger I fabricated was definitely inspired on the plunger of Captain_Slug's PCSR and Caliburn, but all ideas come from somewhere. 

 

Otherwise, it looks very complete. More detail shots near the end on how things go together and how the system works would help explain things. Looks like some good submissions actually came out of the contest this year. Glad it was extended.

For the STL files posted, what programs runs those? I assume Solid Works which I have access to at school, but for others who don't have the funds for something on that level, could those files be run on something free like Fusion360 (autodesk)? I've heard there is some compatibility issues between platforms.

These blasters all look like revisions over the SAME thing over and over and over and over and over again.

I see what you mean, but until you know exactly what goes into each blaster, you can't be for certain if there isn't a little bit of tweaking in each design. Plus, 3DBBQ is the ONLY one making legitimate air blasters which are simple, and easy to create for a new modder.

Back on subject: As far as the whole system you've put together, all I can say is damn good work. I'm going into Industrial Design in the fall, and this is exactly the kind of stuff I've always hoped I could do. All of the added pieces that go along with the blaster (packaging, game type with the balls in the tube, apps) are just sweet. This definitely looks a lot like how Tek Recon came out, and I have high hopes. Look forward to seeing more installments to the brand you've created.

On a side note, I'm digging your fluorescent light bulb rig. Smart idea

IPAC

Any updates on when the results will be coming back?

So there was a lot of interest, but we only have 2 entries with a couple weeks to go.

 

Are people working on projects? Do we need to extend the deadline?

I definitely am, although I had no idea this contest was going. Extending it at least another month, or to the end of December would be great. 

 

I hear ya. I understand that my goals may be a bit ambitious for nerf guns, but being able to play around with the 

nerf guns, figuring out how to optimize them for accuracy's sake, is a load of fun. And is arguably a better and healthier way to relieve stress than watching T.V. or other sedentary ways to pass time. All weapons in history have evolved through generations of redesign and fine tuning, even the simple sling shot and spear.  I see no reason not to apply this way of thinking to nerf guns.

By all means then, do so. If you have an idea for a blaster, or want to stylize a blaster in any sort of way, then go for it. Expanding upon the hobby and culture is everyone's goal for new members.

I have two concerns.

The first one is simple; the sound of the pump action makes me cringe, but Coop already covered that.

Nothing a little sanding can't fix.

 

The larger concern is the fact that the pump device raises the surface of the top of the receiver by two inches or more,

from what I can see.  This will likely cause some sighting issues for those who wish to add custom sights to the top

of the receiver.  While not a deal breaker, in terms of sighting along the trajectory, it would also force the shooter to raise their 

eye level slightly, which could be adapted with a modified cheek piece, but still.

TBH, the blaster has a huge piece of plastic sticking out of the top of the blaster already. Not sure the added pump grip raises your aiming surface if it sits flush with this piece. This blaster doesn't have sights for that reason.

 

I would have hoped they would cut off the top charging handle, and instead created an attachment

which would wrap/bend it onto the side of the gun, thus, allowing for a side charging handle rather than a top one.

This would allow the emplacement of "iron sights" to the top of the receiver without raising the sight, "height over bore."

I do like this idea, but the further away a priming bar is from the plunger tube, the more stress is being acted on by the connecting point. For a 3D printed add on to bend out and down on the side of the blaster, I could see it breaking within one prime with the spring inside of the apollo.

 

But your questions about the design are valid, but all things that can be changed yourself if you choose to. It is a plug-in kit. If you want these changes, I wouldn't see it being too hard to do them yourself.

I really don't know why you'd need to. You can currently still buy Sledgefires on Amazon.

Check valve is shot. Cut off the pump, cut out the old check valve, flush the system with water so no plastic chips are inside, then glue a 1" pvc endcap or a oprv setup like that one guy used to do (can't remember his name) where the pump used to be. Drill a hole in the tank and attach a pump with a new check valve spliced in between the pump and tank. Should work fine.

I think the guy you may be thinking of is BrokenSVT

This may be a little late, but I think that the community may have the same questions. So, the 3/4 PVC Preemient catch piece is what is pushed back by the bolt? I may be wrong, if so, correct me. How stabe is this? Does it buckle at all from being primed only on one side?
Thanks

If its in a white circular tub, then don't listen to them. Yes, its consistency is thicker than the lubricant seen in stock blasters, but I've been using it for at least half a decade now and never had a problem with it. 

 

Yea. I guess it's finally time to commit to this promise, huh?

 

ALSO: If anyone internal here at NH can help me figure out the best aspect ratio to use on my images, I'd love some help. I'm over having my nice pages get pixelated on upload. I've done all sorts of aspect ratios and resolutions. No dice.

 

Now, onto the writeup.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Special thanks to everyone who sent me their builds for me to include here! Wish I could have put them all on here, but here are some good ones.

 

 

 

 

I'm confused here. What makes this relevant over the initial writeup you mentioned?

I've seen people use two pieces of polycarbonate instead of the clothespin body, with the original spring from the clothespin connecting the two pieces. But at that rate, it'd be more beneficial and more durable to just make the leap to a rainbow variant catch style.

They are of smaller size than the original Koosh rings.

Nah, throw a Titan tank in there and use the hamp as a pump once you fine tune it. Been wanting to try similar with a hornet/ AMX1 tank on a demolisher to see if it would be an improvement. Just can't find a blast button in good working order to test it with.

You can try adding a tank into that shell, but without an OPRV, it may not even work. Even if it does, it will not be NIC legal if you use a titan tank.

So using the arms of the bow to store the energy instead of the string. Try it out yourself and get back to us on it.

 

 

the crossbolt does not use bow arms.  in a bow, the bow arms do the flexing and the string stays rigid.  in the crossbolt, the power is coming from the elastic string, pretty much making it the world's most suped-up slingshot.

It does use bow arms, just not use them to store energy to fire darts. Slight distinction there. I fully understand how bows work.

I don't understand what you're saying. The Crossbolt does use actual bow arms to fire projectiles.

I know I want to go up to NY to visit family after summer studio sometime in August, so if I end up getting there, I'll try to take the drive to NJ.

I'm living in Auburn for school. As far as wars go, there's probably no way I have the time for it.

It looks very practical. My question is, does that thing make straight cuts?

OFF TOPIC: The box is a PAS box. I just got one yesterday.

You could just layer 1/2" into 3/4" into 1", using tape to fill in any gaps or sand pieces until they all fit nicely together. Then use a thin layer of epoxy putty on the point of connection of that PVC sandwich where it connects with the air source on the blaster and sand it down until its smooth.

 

That's just one way to solve your problem. It's called problem solving.

"Rear loading was well over 200ft"
I'm calling BS on that

Some internal and close up pictures would really help. Make sure that everything is epoxied or glued completely.

If he hasn't even opened the blaster, then there is no point in internal pictures. And he seems like he hasn't glued anything, so that is also a moot point.

On Topic: As far as the crayola barrels, if you are having better performance with the dollar tree markers, then why not just stick to them? Your darts may just fit better in them, and the barrels should be cheaper anyway.

I would recommend KaneTheMediocre's foam. It's nice, consistent, and it's pink!

If you plan on making non silicone style darts, I would not recommend using this type of foam. They are very interested in keeping this foam used for a single design, and I don't think will sell it to you unless you also buy the silicone materials to build dart heads. However, if this is up your alley, then go for it.

Now think about it this way, if you were in a war with friends, family, whatever, and you get hit with a pink foam Stefan, that would suck. With that being said, I know that getting hit with ANY Stefan would hurt physically. But emotionally, being hit with a pink one would truly hurt emotionally... ESPECIALLY if it came from someone who named their blaster, "The Fluffy Bunny".

Coming from the stand point, that this is a hobby wear blasters painted mil/sim and blasters painted black are looked down upon, and blasters painted flamboyantly or humorously are cool, I don't see why getting hit with pink darts makes you a bitch. It's all about what's easiest to find in the field. Plain and simple.

So what your saying is, is that you want to use this nerf gun to kill people?
The cops will breathe down all of our throats and you will ruin nerf forever (If you actually make it)
Thanks

It might just be me, but that coupler on the BBB on the first picture looks really crooked.

Sorry. On my computer, my post did not come up.

Isn't the double shot technically a semi auto blaster?

Up to my knowledge, the only generation 2 big blast exists in the Lego Aquatic whatever toyline, in the red, black, and lime green color scheme. Here is the trigger and tank of a gen 1 big blast,

 

And here is the trigger and tank of gen 2 big blast. As mentioned before, the gen 2 has a faster trigger pull, and won't break on you like the gen 1 tends to, but the tank is a little smaller. If you end up getting a gen 1 big blast, which you probably will with that color scheme, then you're gonna be better off. Just reinforce the trigger, buy an aftermarket trigger made by someone out of polycarbonate, or make you're own, and you should be fine.

You could slice the front plastic part in half along the shell line, glued or not. The screws around there should keep it closed pretty well.