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#275354 Quick & Easy Rfr/ds Shell Mod

Posted by MavericK96 on 19 May 2010 - 09:05 PM in Modifications

So I got bored today and decided to do something about my Rapid Fire Rifle only being able to shoot the stock suction cup dart ammo, as this way it is kind of useless. I know that CPVC and other mods have been done on these shells, but this mod is meant to be fast, easy, and require no additional materials to make work. If this has been done before, I apologize, but it did not come up in the Modifications Directory.

Tools:

Drill with 1/4" drill bit
Electrical Tape (or tape of equal smoothness/thickness)


First, start with an unmodified RFR/DS shell:

Posted Image

Next, take the shell, turn it over and drill through the center of the hole in the bottom of the shell. Make sure to keep the drill bit straight as you go through. If you did it right, the entire post assembly inside the dart should simply fall out the front, leaving you with this (sorry for the blurry pic, but you get the idea)

Posted Image

Now, you should be left with a black circular piece of plastic inside the dart which is held up by a spring. This is part of the "air restrictor" assembly inside the dart, but since you just drilled out the center of it, you can simply leave it in the shell. I tried to remove it from the first shell and ended up botching it, destroying the shell. It's not hurting anything by being in there, so just leave it.

The next issue I ran into was that both the stock darts as well as Stefans/Streamlines would fall out of the shell, because the shell diameter was not tight enough against the dart to hold it in (that is what the post was for, apparently). So, to fix this, simply cut a small (~1/2") strip of electrical tape, and put it inside the shell just below the top opening. You should end up with something that looks like this:

Posted Image

Now, the darts should fit snugly in the shells without falling out. And...That's it! You're done. You should be able to use Stefans with the shells now. I also noticed a fairly significant increase in range due to drilling out the air restrictors, as well as slightly widening the hole in the back of the shells using the 1/4" drill bit.

IMPORTANT NOTE: One unfortunate issue is that normal-sized Streamlines will not work with the RFR, because they are just slightly too long to fit up into the breech cavity. You can either cut down your Streamlines by a small amount (I'm guessing somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" would work), or, if you're like me and don't want to mutilate your darts, you can just use either the stock darts, or your own (shorter than Streamline) Stefan darts, which is what I chose to do. In the end it looks like this:

Posted Image

Hope this helps some people out with making these guns a little bit more useful. Questions or comments are welcome, though it's a fairly straightforward and simple procedure.



#285184 Stampede Lag Question

Posted by MavericK96 on 09 September 2010 - 07:14 PM in Modifications

There's a lag because the plunger is not in a pulled-back position by default. When the trigger is pulled, the motor has to pull back the plunger and release it. Increasing the voltage should help, but there's really no way to eliminate the lag entirely because of how the blaster works.



#287921 Troubleshooting: Stampede Firing Uncontrollably

Posted by MavericK96 on 04 November 2010 - 03:56 PM in Modifications

SGNerf, Spartan, and myself have been doing testing on this issue over at the NerfSG forums. We concluded that it can be due to a number of issues, but here are some of the likely causes:

1. Mangled/misplaced catch control spring (seen below)

Posted Image

Posted Image

(Photos taken from Nerf SG forum)

Either reset the spring, or replace with a stronger one (a pen spring works well if it's the right size)

2. Black plunger return spring not strong enough (I know you said you tried this, but stretching this spring helped me solve my problems)

3. Needs additional lubrication on the plunger o-ring (usually if you've replaced the o-ring with a stronger one, such as the one in the Stampede Upgrade Kit that SGNerf sells)

Messing with these things fixed the problem for me. I've been using 2x 7.2v battery packs (~16-17V fully charged) in my Stampede and had the auto-firing issue, but after doing these fixes it's working great now.



#286823 Market For Older, Classic Nerf?

Posted by MavericK96 on 11 October 2010 - 07:01 PM in General Nerf

Hi guys,

I was clearing out the attic not too long ago, and came across a plethora of random, older Nerf blasters. Stuff like a Master Blaster (with original box), Bow N Arrow (sawed-off tip for dart firing), and several of the Cyber Strike line (Ratchet Blast, AutoGrip (with box), Rototrack, Strong Arm). There's a few Larami/SuperMaxx blasters as well, and some other random stuff.

My question is, is there any sort of market for any of this? These days I'm sure most of these blasters wouldn't be used in a war, but maybe they have collector's value to someone. Me, I just mostly want to get rid of them because they're taking up a lot of space.

Thanks in advance for any help. :)



#264904 Classic Nerf Ball In Box (possibly 1970 Version)

Posted by MavericK96 on 10 February 2010 - 04:24 AM in General Nerf

Maybe you could post some pictures? Might help us figure out exactly what you're talking about.



#304086 Has anybody heard of this gun?

Posted by MavericK96 on 30 August 2011 - 05:43 PM in General Nerf

Interesting that the darts and clip design look almost EXACTLY like Nerf's...



#285187 Stampede Triple-h Mag

Posted by MavericK96 on 09 September 2010 - 07:18 PM in Modifications

I think a nice mod/official add-on would be a holder for a clip that slides onto a rail-system rail, such as the side rails on the Stampede. They're really not useful for anything else.



#304159 Has anybody heard of this gun?

Posted by MavericK96 on 01 September 2011 - 01:35 AM in General Nerf

Based on the unboxing video, those are indeed the darts that come with it...they just happen to look (and probably pretty much are) EXACTLY like Nerf Streamlines.



#287492 Nerf Stampede Ecs Problems

Posted by MavericK96 on 25 October 2010 - 02:56 PM in Modifications

So the plunger tube moves but it does not fire?

Maybe your plunger rod catch is misaligned, or the spring fell out of place?

EDIT: Also, what type of batteries are you using? If you're just using standard AA then the current draw might be a problem with the added spring, like SGNerf mentioned.



#292983 The Mave

Posted by MavericK96 on 16 January 2011 - 11:30 PM in Modifications

Isn't 27-35 ft about average for a standard modded Maverick anyway? Doesn't this just cut down the RoF by a ton?

I would have thought singling it would increase the range considerably. Either way, inventive mod.



#285188 Quick Stampede Rechargeable Battery Mini Write-up

Posted by MavericK96 on 09 September 2010 - 07:19 PM in Modifications

Very nice, clean mod. I'm awaiting 2x 7.2v battery packs (similar to that one) and I'm going to see if two of them can be jammed in the battery compartment. If not, I will have to get creative. B)



#285242 Quick Stampede Rechargeable Battery Mini Write-up

Posted by MavericK96 on 10 September 2010 - 04:56 PM in Modifications

One thing to mention: If you are going to take apart the battery sled, two of the screws appear to be a weird triangle bit. Basically like a hex, but a triangle instead (not a tri-wing). I used a T7 Torx bit and it worked fine on it.

Just something to keep in mind, because a standard or Phillips head won't work.



#168673 Longshot Simple Mod Rating

Posted by MavericK96 on 13 August 2008 - 05:15 AM in Modifications

You could just put the red light thing on the bottom of the Recon barrel using the rail system, like it's supposed to be.



#288770 Area 52 Blaster Modification

Posted by MavericK96 on 23 November 2010 - 01:24 AM in Modifications

Kinda looks like someone tried to make a knock-off of the Recon and failed miserably. Props to you for muddling through this beast.



#290433 Strongarm Modification

Posted by MavericK96 on 07 December 2010 - 11:52 PM in Modifications

I've got one of these that I'd be willing to sell to someone.



#284718 Stampede Vs Vulcan

Posted by MavericK96 on 03 September 2010 - 11:46 PM in Modifications

Vulcan sucks, stampede awesome. that is all.


Pretty much sums it up. Slap some rechargeable batteries/battery pack in there and go.



#279132 You Guys Might Like This!

Posted by MavericK96 on 01 July 2010 - 05:15 AM in General Nerf

Yeah, I suppose if it only manages to achieve Vulcan ranges then it won't be so great. Hopefully some clever folk on here will come up with some good mods for it, though. I could see it being very useful if the ranges were decent.

Think about it this way: It's like a Vulcan, but it uses the clip system. That alone is pretty great.



#279121 You Guys Might Like This!

Posted by MavericK96 on 30 June 2010 - 11:52 PM in General Nerf

The Spartan just looks like a small vulcan. But I like the bipod/fore grip.


...Which is AWESOME, IMO. Depending on the moddability of it. A semi/full auto Nerf assault rifle? DO WANT.



#304158 New Buzzbee Hawk

Posted by MavericK96 on 01 September 2011 - 01:34 AM in General Nerf

It would be a nice idea for buzzbee.

Anyways, just to let everyone know, I couldn't find I single previous buzzbee gun from the series there. Just new stuff, including:the rogue pistol, beserker-like maniac, new double shot edition, and others I didn't pay any attention to. I really think buzzbee is upping their game. Looking on the nerf section with a few re-painted white-outs, shifting my glance to the buzzbee section, with totally new stuff, no repaints, I'm really thinking buzzbee will be my preference over nerf sometime soon.


Yeah, they do have some pretty slick-looking offerings lately. One thing I think they need to do is do away with the suction-cup darts and get onboard with the streamline-types...flies farther and they (or equivalent) tend to be what most people use these days.

EDIT: One question...how much was it?



#304085 Help me identify this vintage blaster

Posted by MavericK96 on 30 August 2011 - 05:40 PM in General Nerf

The blue one shown in the OP used those same bullets but they did not have the sticky thing on the front. So similar but wasn't quite the same.



#303682 Help me identify this vintage blaster

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 August 2011 - 05:55 PM in General Nerf

My mistake, I meant Tyco. Anyway, this thing most definitely does not glow in the dark. Sadly, as that would be awesome. :)


I used to have that thing! Can't remember the name, but it fired these soft yellow foam "bullets" with a bit of weight in the end of them. Uses a flywheel system.



#304084 New Buzzbee Hawk

Posted by MavericK96 on 30 August 2011 - 05:38 PM in General Nerf

So are they going to offer replacement magazines for this? Because that was the main downfall of the RFR IMO...Fun to play with, but with only one mag it was pretty useless for anything else.



#284816 Stampede Vs Vulcan

Posted by MavericK96 on 05 September 2010 - 12:38 AM in Modifications

I'm not taking a side, but there is also the ability to cock the Vulcan. Can't do that with a Stampede. And D batteries suck.


Slap some rechargeable batteries/battery pack in there and go.


Problem solved. B)

But I agree about the manual priming. Might be nice to have that for the Stampede. Might even be able to mod that ability in, who knows?



#285820 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 01:15 PM in Modifications

Wow, interesting! I assume this fixes the problem even at higher voltages? Strange that it works properly at lower ones but not higher.

Nice find, Spartan, and thanks to SGNerf for the write-up. I will have to try this and get back to you.

Yes, i've tested it on a few modded Stampedes and it fixes the "auto-running" issues at all voltages and RoF.

I think its probably due to higher RoF that causes the spring to somehow get dislodged during usage, so it could be a good idea to seal the gap where the spring usually pops out from to prevent future issues arising.


Well, I just pulled apart my Stampede and, sadly, it looks like my catch spring was still in place. So either this is not the sole cause of the automatic firing issue, or maybe the default spring is not strong enough? Did you replace the springs on yours with stronger ones or just put them back in place?



#284658 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 02 September 2010 - 10:52 PM in Modifications

Not sure what you're thinking of, but there's no way plexiglass replacement gears could be even half as good as nylon.


Honestly I don't know much about plexi vs. nylon, but it seemed like plexi might be stronger, or rather some sort of acrylic sheet? I have no idea, just brainstorming. Metal would of course be the best, but most people don't have the facilities to cut metal that precisely.



#285842 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 06:04 PM in Modifications

I only ever used about 16 volts total (2x fully-charged 7.2v battery packs) and it started having the problem immediately. Also, when I return to using the standard 9v, the blaster works perfectly. So I don't really think the electronics are damaged, but just for some reason the blaster goes haywire at 14-16v.



#284629 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 02 September 2010 - 06:58 PM in Modifications

I don't have any way of getting accurate ranges right now (no tape measure long enough), but with some quick testing I would say it's about on par with an AR-removed Alpha Trooper in terms of range. I tested it against an AR-removed, spring stretched Longshot and the Longshot is definitely more powerful.

Still, it has some pretty good potential. It may be possible to stretch the spring or put in a more powerful one, but the strain on the gears/motor might be considerably increased and could cause the blaster to fail.

The big draw of this blaster is that it is a clip-system, fully-automatic, compact (compared to the Vulcan, anyway) assault weapon.

The ultimate mod for this blaster would be the following:

1. AR removal/O-ring replacement/spring replacement (maybe)
2. Battery mod (rechargeable battery pack, possible greater voltage)
3. Brass breech
4. Machined steel/aluminum gears, maybe even high-quality plexi versus the nylon plastic ones that are stock
5. Motor replacement (if possible)

Everything except the gear replacements is probably doable with not a ton of effort or money.



#284624 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 02 September 2010 - 06:35 PM in Modifications

Correct. It is very similar to the Longshot. I believe SGNerf did some comparison side-by-sides with the Longshot plunger and they were practically identical.

It seems to me the way the mechanism works is by pulling the entire bolt sled/plunger tube forward over the dart, while holding the plunger rod back and compressing the spring. Then, when the maximum pull is reached, the plunger is released and forces the dart out of the chamber and the entire bolt sled assembly slides backwards again to load another dart. It's pretty ingenious in its simplicity and efficiency, really.



#284622 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 02 September 2010 - 06:18 PM in Modifications

This is pretty easy to do, but I'll post a write-up just because I haven't seen anyone post it yet.

Tools needed:

-Small Philips screwdriver
-Power drill or drill press
-3/8" and/or 1/2" drill bit
-Time
-Patience

Here's a picture of the unsuspecting Stampede, along with the tools I used:

Posted Image


First off, we need to get the beast open. Remove the battery compartment first if you haven't already. Next, remove all the screws you see, which is a tedious and time-consuming process but necessary nonetheless.

After you get it open, be aware that there is a wire connecting the two halves together for the on/off "safety" switch. I simply rotated the half around to gain access to the plunger/bolt sled without having all the screws fall out and without damaging the wire:

Posted Image


After getting it open, you need to remove the large orange piece covering the plunger assembly. There are about 4-5 screws to remove and then this should pop off, leaving you with this:

Posted Image


Next, you want to remove the pieces circled in red here:

Posted Image


After those are gone, you should be able to slide the entire plunger/bolt sled assembly out easily.

Posted Image


There are two screws holding an end-cap on the rear of the plunger (sorry, no picture). Remove this to remove the spring and plunger from the plunger tube.

You will then see something like this when looking down the plunger tube from the rear:

Posted Image


...and the front:

Posted Image


Basically, this is no different from any other air restrictor that Nerf makes. All I did was take a 3/8" drill bit and drilled through the back, exposing the rear of the air restrictor:

Posted Image


Then, simply use a screwdriver or pliers or whatever you want to break out the dart post from the front of the bolt sled. This is crucial because the rest of the air restrictor will not come out otherwise. I tried drilling through the entire thing, but due to the structure of the air restrictor, the drill bit will get caught on it and it will simply spin around rather than drilling through it.

I then used a 1/2" drill bit through the back of the plunger tube again to clear out more of the air restrictor assembly, and eventually everything fell out and I was left with this:

Front:

Posted Image


Rear:

Posted Image


(And yes, I cleaned out the plastic particles on the inside before I re-assembled it)

And there you have it. Simple, clean, easy to do. The stock plunger O-ring does not make a great seal, but I didn't have anything to replace it with so I didn't bother with it. Replacing it might net you a bit more range, but it's hard to say how much.

With the air restrictor removal alone, I'd guesstimate that the blaster shoots about 5-10 feet further. It is also a bit more loud, but it's loud in the first place so it's not much of a difference, really.

Questions, comments, concerns? Post them below. Thanks for reading. :lol:



#284719 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 03 September 2010 - 11:49 PM in Modifications

So, after some more experience with the Stampede, I have to say the accuracy leaves something to be desired. Using normal Streamlines, they can spin wildly off-center. Using my own shorter Stefans, it seems a lot more accurate and performs better as well. Sometimes with Streamlines I would get a few that would barely shoot 15 feet, and some that would shoot 30+. Not sure what the huge variance is, but it's a bit annoying. The ROF is second to none, though, for not having to prime anything at all.



#284681 Stampede Ar Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 03 September 2010 - 12:51 PM in Modifications

Right now I'm just trying to figure out the best rechargeable solution. Honestly the ROF with the stock 9V or so seems decent enough to me, and I think I will wait and see what SGNerf reveals with further testing (that 22V ROF is killer B)) I've been looking into rechargeable battery packs for Airsoft/RC, and also high-capacity, rechargeable D-cell batteries, but the cost of those is fairly high (~$7 per battery) and the weight would still be pretty significant (the gun seems rear-heavy with standard D-cells).



#285818 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 12:56 PM in Modifications

Wow, interesting! I assume this fixes the problem even at higher voltages? Strange that it works properly at lower ones but not higher.

Nice find, Spartan, and thanks to SGNerf for the write-up. I will have to try this and get back to you.



#285833 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 04:44 PM in Modifications

EDIT: Double post. Board kept giving me errors when trying to post, but apparently they went through anyway.



#285834 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 04:45 PM in Modifications

EDIT: Triple post



#285832 Nerf Stampede - Plunger Catch Control Spring Troubleshoot!

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 September 2010 - 04:44 PM in Modifications

Yep, just confirming that I replaced the stock catch spring with a stronger one, and the blaster still continues to fire automatically with higher voltage. Not really sure what else could be causing the issue other than the electronics themselves. (?)



#136709 Hole In The Handla

Posted by MavericK96 on 21 January 2008 - 12:38 AM in General Nerf

It's actually sort of silly having a hole for one dart when you consider the way the gun works. I guess it's for some sort of last-chance holdout shot or something.



#320946 Nerf gun motors, problems and solutions

Posted by MavericK96 on 24 August 2012 - 03:40 PM in General Nerf

Would be cool if you actually had some info about what replacement motor would be suitable, because AFAIK most of the aftermarket motors people have found are too big and require reaming out the plastic inside to get it to fit.



#320828 30 round Absolver/shotgun attachment

Posted by MavericK96 on 22 August 2012 - 11:20 AM in Darts and Barrels

Nice, I really like that 6-barrel splitter piece. Never seen one of those when I was sourcing parts for Absolver-like shells. Certainly would make spacing the barrels and getting them straight a lot easier, though.



#332933 SledgeFire A/R Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 12 August 2013 - 06:25 PM in Modifications

Using stock darts...Will try slugs to see what happens, but it really is strange because the pegs don't actually contact the inside of the dart, so the friction should not be any different.

EDIT: White foam slugs work fine, but you really have to jam them down in there...lots of friction. I'll probably just have to remove the ARs I guess, which is fine.



#332927 SledgeFire A/R Removal

Posted by MavericK96 on 12 August 2013 - 02:54 PM in Modifications

I haven't removed the AR yet on my Sledgefire, but one interesting (and kind of lame) thing I noticed is that after I removed the posts from one of the shells, the darts don't fire evenly out of that shell anymore. Which makes very little sense, since the posts don't hold down the AR pegs or anything, the dart itself does that. Basically what will happen, though, is that one dart will fire really far and the others will kind of just flop out about 5-10 feet in front of the gun. My only guess is that maybe removing the pegs somehow made the darts fire out less evenly, causing most of the air to go through one slot and not the others. However, this doesn't really make sense because I cut out each peg evenly and the darts are identical.

I assume doing an AR removal would solve this, but I'd kinda hate to lose the ability to fire less than 3 darts at once.