Also the random 1/8" hole at the top of PRIME.

From the positioning, I'd say that port is to facilitate U3 dickwaving.

No that's the one at ... oh that's the plunger tube? I wonder why people dump lube in there then...

What's the 5/8" hole on CATCH for? Ease of assembly? Also the random 1/8" hole at the top of PRIME.

Everything else, as usual, is super pimp of course.

What's the back peg on the plunger rod made from? When I saw your prototype at Deal, it inspired me into my current uni-directional catch face, but unfortunately my method requires using a lathe: not the most ideal for ease of reproduction.

OHHH MAH GOD WHAT'S GOING ON!?

Fancy names are stupid.

We should call this the Revolution Nerf Crossbow.

I'm assuming the "clear PVC" is all just Polyester tubing, like the stuff people have dubbed "clear CPVC"?

Well you know what the say about "assume."

Clear PVC is ... PVC that is clear. It is made out of PVC and is just chemically treated to be clear. The dimensions are the same as standard PVC pipe with nominal dimensions. It is just not pressure rated (at all).

Polyester is made from ester polymers (notably, Lexan i.e. polycarbonates, are a subclass of polyesters) and is made in tube sizes with exact dimensions.

Anyone who refers to 1/2"x5/8" butyrate or polyester tube as "clear 1/2" cpvc" is either stupid, or enjoys promoting stupidity.

I like to think that the cocking slide, shown in three of the four images in the first post, which draws the string and plunger rod back to the catching point, would be what qualifies this as pump-action.

Oh, and in case the pictures weren't enough, reading the words helps too:

The pump grip merely pushes back the nylon bow string, until the catches, obviously. I'll probably add a return spring for the pump later.

And yes, he typically runs this with a hopper. In fact, he has probably never actually Nerf'd with it with any setup other than a hopper.

Excuse me, I'll go get you a tampon. I assumed pump-action meant something along the lines of the slam firing in raiders or alpha-troopers, not the same priming action used in a nite finder. And none of the pictures suggested the use of a hopper, nor did any of the words.

Be happy Ambience answered your questions politely, when they are in fact incredibly dumb and you have no position from which you should be admonishing him.

There is nothing in the term "pump-action" that would suggest slam-fire. The commonly termed "pump action shotgun" certainly does not have slam fire. Neither do any "pump action" modifications for the recon or longshot. Pump action indicates in real firearms:

action mechanism in a modern rifle or shotgun; a back and forward motion of a sliding lever ejects the empty shell case and cocks the firearm and loads a new round

which when applied to Nerf Blasters generally means priming the blaster. In magazine-fed blasters this extends to indicated loading a new dart.

Finally, if you had bothered to watch the video, you would see use with a hopper. Or if you had even an iota of cognizance, you'd realize that a hopper provides the best ROF for a non-magazine fed blaster, as seen in pumpbows and hoppered hand cannons.

Please remove phallic objects from around your various orifices, including, but not limited to, the buccal one.

Actually your cooler than talio by alot. Do you sit in freezers?

VACC's cooler is with more actuality than Talio... what?

I am in the process of testing my hypothesis that increasing spring force (force is required here, now just overall energy), increasing the initial static friction on the dart, and decreasing volume before the dart when the plunger is at stop will lead to better results.

However, I only have two available raiders for my own use, and they're both getting brass breeches and then I'm adding the "straw mod" and crowned 1/2" brass to one and comparing the two. It would be nice if someone else could test other variants so we can figure out which combination of factors will produce the optimal results.

Of course, the simplest way is just to replace the plunger setup, but that has very low ease of reproduction.

I'm not sure why you guys took the OP super seriously when he posts gems like this:

The barrel is *not* detachable. It's fixed. Hasbro actually spent a hell of a lot of money with a ballistics University in the US, who proved barrels benefit blasters, and rifling actually does also. So it's something Hasbro are sticking with. They, at my last conversation with Engineers had no intention to make a detachable blaster.

Being an excited preteen is one thing; having 0 critical reasoning ability is another. A key to not being a scrub at real life is to find the small nuggets of truth in the piles of bullshit.

Keep discussion to the modification and not speculation about where or when you can obtain the blaster. I've purged all the irrelevant comments.

I used a needle nose pliers to open up the o-ring wide enough to slide down the bolt without touching the threads. Also I sanded the sliding part down and it's very smooth.

I'm pretty sure that together takes more effort than simply buying the right components and assembly everything onto steel rod...

Nice job discovering the faucet washer. Much better way to seal than flat washer or o-rings.

Thank you JSB this is just the information I need...

I don't know why you would want something other than PVC cement though. All the products that Bob listed are either going to be more dangerous than PVC cement, or in the same isle, on the same shelf, right next to the cans of PVC cement.

Your best bet for alternative methods of solvent-welding would be to use paint stripper/thinner or pure acetone. Of course, all this info is in the thread on solvent welding:http://nerfhaven.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18527

Working on barrels which will hopper any dart (specifically silicone domes). The flute is cut out of tin can and folded which presents a lot of its own problems such as folding up on itself under all the airflow.

The distinction between this and previous flute (BritNerf/Carbon) is that it doesn't actually seal the dart into the barrel material, but just prevents the dart from falling too far down the wye at a really inconvenient angle.

Preliminary testing suggests it does improve feeding so plans are for a more stable version much more rigorous sampling

Use this thread for pictures of your dart or barrel designs/concepts that aren't yet ready to have a thread dedicated to them.

Do not use this thread to take pictures of your recreations of existing designs (e.g. "look at how pretty my slugs are!"), unless there was something unique to the smithing process.

I'm considering it. Will there be more than 1 round every hour?

My photos of the war are up: https://www.flickr.c...57644993525349/

Unfortunately I wasn't able to get individual shots of everyone at the war. Additionally, JLego somehow made a disproportionate number of these.





Also, who is this mysterious person that didn't do any nerfing at all, no sir?

Those are dope photos! Can I get permission from you to use some of them in a video or two or mine, as well as post them on my blog when I get up a Geddon recap post? Of course, I'll be sure to give you credit.

No problem. You can also modify them (crop them / add logos) as long as you distribute under the same license: https://creativecomm...nses/by-sa/2.0/

Thanks Zorn! Now I can get to work on mine.

I'm in the process of doing this. I started it when I saw your post in the mod/pictures thread. I need some kind of substitute for the SDR PVC because they don't sell it up here. Any advice? This thing looks Effeminate. Great job.
EDIT: I looked through my parts bin, and discovered that I had enough materials to do this:

I realize how much I need to cut the back down. IT will be done after school. Hopefully. I can't wait to see what that pump is for coming out the scope.
Thanks a lot Zorn! This is so useful.

How stable is the LS magazine in your breech? The picture is a bit dark, but it looks like you had extra room for the LS mag to move around. However, I don't know your materials, so maybe it works well for you.

Also, over the weekend, I will be testing a plunger head with double the the neoprene washers, to see if that will work better.

-------------------------------
Slide breech that accepts LS mags
--------------------------------

I'm going to assume you're familiar with slide breeches. If not, Angel and Tantum both have great writeups that you should familiarize yourself with first.

The breech consists of 6" of 19/32" brass sheath, 9" of 9/16" brass main barrel, 3/4" of 17/32" brass dart stop with 1/2" of 9/16" brass support, 5.5" + 3.5" of 1/2" SCH40 PVC housing and 4" of 3/4 SDR200 PVC support bracket.

There is also a 1/2" CPVC elbow, 1/2" PVC tee, and a small segment of 1/2" CPVC.

Picture first, to be followed by a lot of words


I wanted my breech to extend 1" into the plunger tube of the BBB. I'd need 1/2" of additional space for clearing the 1/2" PVC coupler, and then another 1/2" for mounting the 3/4" PVC.

This means that the first cut or base cut for the rear of the breech starts 2" up on the 19/32" brass, 1" up on the (5.5" section of) 1/2" PVC, and 1/2" up on the 3/4" PVC.

The BBB has a draw of 3.5". With a dart stop of 3/4" of 17/32 in 1/2" of 9/16 in the rear of the 19/32", that means the 9/16 main brass barrel will be pushed to a maximum of 4" forward of the end of the 19/32" brass. Since the first cut occurs 2" up the brass, that means I have room for 2" of dart slot in the 19/32 brass before sacrificing stability. The dart slot is simply a section of halfpipe cut into the brass. I cut myself 1.75" of dart slot in the pictures, but if I were to repeat this, I would go the full 2"

The LS clip is 3-3/16" long, so from the base cut on the PVC segments, cut up 3-1/4" to fit the LS clip. The cut in the 1/2" SCH40PVC should be a half-pipe, while being slightly less than a half-pipe in the 3/4" SDR200 PVC (probably 150 degree cut out, leaving 210 degress of the 3/4, which amounts to 15 degress on each side when centered symmetrically.)

Next come the cuts to fit the "wings" on the LS mag. These occur 11/16" up from the base cut and last 1-7/8". The cut is fairly deep on the 1/2" PVC piece, as you're only left with a 3/8" strip of material on top, which should fit between the slot in the wings of the LS mag. The cut is much more shallow on the 3/4" PVC, being only 5/16" deeper than the semi-halfpipe mark. The wings of the LS mag will go over the 19/32" brass, lie flush with the 1/2" PVC, and be held by the 3/4" PVC.

Here are pictures of the assembly process after all the pieces have been cut


Wrap .5" wide of etape around the 1/2" PVC at the two ends of the magazine slot, such that it fits snugly in the 3/4" thinwall. Glue together. Then add your 19/32" sheath. Glue. These 3 parts together form the receiver.

From this point on it's very straightforward.

You want to sand down the 1/2" PVC at the front (marked with the etape in the pictures, but that excess etape shouldn't actually be there). You also want to sand out one end along the main line of the 1/2" PVC tee. Take your 9/16" main barrel and shove it into the receiver. Wrap etape around the exposed end of the brass such that it fits snugly in the 1/2" SCH40 PVC. Take your remaining 3.5" of PVC and shove it into the end of the tee that is opposite the one you sanded. Apply some glue to the etape. Take the PVC and Tee and shove it over the brass, such that the sanded end of the tee goes over the sanded end of the receiver. We sanded the ends earlier so that the system wouldn't stick at this point, thereby reducing stress on the linking mechanism.

Next, shove your CPVC elbow in to the open stem of the PVC elbow. You want it such that the distance from the center of the barrel to the center of the elbow is 1.75" This may require cutting the CPVC elbow if it doesn't fit, and creative use of the CPVC stub shoved into the cut ring of elbow, further shoved into the PVC tee for centering and joining purposes.

Finally, take 15" of CPVC, notch it so it can slide and lock over your linked breech attachment point, and assemble. Note that your length may not be 15" You want it short enough such that the breech fully closes when priming the BBB, but long enough such that the CPVC doesn't pull free of the elbow or tries to close the breech beyond the fully closed point.

-------------------------------
Pump integration
--------------------------------

I started with a BS pump. Cut it from the trigger, shove in some 1/8x1/4" vinyl tubing, superglue for holding strength, and then throw goop over that for seal. To fit it in the shell, I had to do some dremel work:

Also, drill a hole in the shell for the pump tubing. The amount of dremel work you need to do here will depend on the pump you're using.

Put the pump in and add liberal amounts of hot glue to hold it in place:


Finished rear section of the BBB:


Now, we want to extend the pump handle. Cut yourself an 8" piece of 1/2" CPVC. This next step will vary depending on what pump you're using. With a BS pump, you want to cut the sides of the pump handle down such that it will fit inside the CPVC until you hit the part of the pump where it forms a +
Then, cut notches in the CPVC to fit over this +
Finally, drill 3/16" holes through the CPVC such that the holes also go through the holes where the old pump handle would attach.


Attach the two pieces together via a small amount of hot glue (physical spacing/prevents shiftiness) and 2 3/4" 8-32x screws and accompanying nut. I used 1" screws and then cut them shorter because I got a box of 50 assorted 1" and 1.5" 8-32 screws, so didn't feel like buying the proper parts.


Next, sand out a piece of PVC such that it'll fit over the CPVC.


Glue this to the front sight. This will help guide the pump shaft.


And make yourself a pump handle from 1/2" CPVC endcap inside 1/2" PVC elbow and a 1/2" PVC handle.


Now we're ready for some integrations!

Goals of this mod:
- Coupler system to accept CPVC and PVC/PVC + nested barrel setups
- Attachment point for a removable linked breech
- More reliable plunger head
- Increased draw
- Reinforcements to handle 38+ lbs of draw force
- Air gun integration

I'm not going to bother with the introductory stuff like disassembling the gun and taking out ARs. There's plenty of BBB writeups you can follow. Furthermore, I've done this project over 2 BBBs, so the shell color you see will change.

-------------------------------
Reinforcements
--------------------------------

Let's start with the catch. Add epoxy putty to the catch plate and also the plunger rod:

You want the catch nub on the catch plate to be enlarged enough such that the plunger rod has no horizontal "wriggle room"

I also found that my catch plate was loose in the catch well itself, so I added some epoxy putty to the guide ridges on the catch plate:

I only had to add the epoxy putty to the ridge that went into the side of the shell that contains the internals (right side, if the front of the gun is pointed away from you). To ensure the catch plate would still fit, I pressed the catch back into the well while the putty was still soft and used a knife to cut away the excess.
In the picture, you can also see how the addition to the catch nub is rounded on one side and more perpendicular on the other. The rounded side faces the front and allows for the plunger rod to still slide back under the catch.

Next, buff up on springs:

I use McMaster part 96565K36 for all my catch replacement springs. I also had to buff up the trigger spring because I did a crap job cleaning putty off of the catch well so the catch was a bit sticky.

Finally, add a washer to the back of your plunger tube:

I pushed the washer most of the way down, threw some goop on it, and pushed it the rest of the way in. The washer in question is a 9/16 SAE washer. Actual dimensions are 1-3/16" OD x 19/32" ID. This step serves two purposes. It creates a better force distribution on the back of the plunger tube because the steel won't deform as much as the bare plastic, and it also decreases the ID, allowing use of springs with smaller ID (like the +bow spring) without the spring twisting out of the plunger tube. Blacksunshine solved it by flaring his springs. This is my method.

Because of the smaller ID however, you will also have to shave down the corners of your plunger rod:

Ignore the cut of peg for now.

-------------------------------
Improved plunger head
--------------------------------

Method 1: Improving the existing plunger head

Bend the "cup" shape of the plunger head backwards, wrap wire (or some other flexible round material) around the base of the plunger head, and add hot glue:

This expands the gasket which helps ensure a solid seal.

You should also cut off the top of the plunger head:


Also, reinforce the plunger head by adding washers to the orange disc that compresses the springs. This has been done before, so consult b00m13 or Blacksunshine's writeups if you need help.

Method 2: Replacing the plunger head

Materials:

1.5" long 8-32x machine screw
1" long 8-32x 1/4" OD round aluminum standoff (threaded spacer)

Preparing the plunger rod

Start by cutting off the nub that holds the orange disc and plunger head and sanding the tip flat:


Drill a 1/4" hole 1" deep for you standoff



Take your 18-32x 1/4" OD aluminum standoff and epoxy that sucker in. Then add epoxy putty around it for extra support.



The standoff is threaded for a 8-32 screw to screw on the plunger head.

Building the plunger head

Be sure to check out this post too, as it is both lighter and better sealing.

This step is an adaptation of the Longshot plunger head replacement. You want to sandwich a neoprene washer in between metal washers. Here are ideal dimensions:

- 1x 1-1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Neoprene washer
- 1x 1-1/16" OD x 1/8" ID Steel washer (back)
- 1x 1" OD x 1/8" ID Steel washer (front)

Here's what I ended up using, due a lack of materials at ACE:

- 1x 1-1/4" OD x 3/16" ID Neoprene washer
- 1x 1/2" SAE washer (1-1/16 OD x 17/32 ID)
- 1x #10 SAE washer (1/2 OD x 7/32 ID)
- 2x 3/4 OD x 5/32 ID steel washer
- 1x 1" OD x 7/16 ID fiber washer
- 1x 7/16 OD x 7/32 OD fiber washer

The first 3 steel washers create the "back" and the next three create the "front". I nest the washers by putting the smaller one in the larger one, and then glue both of them to the third for support and cohesion. The following two pictures should help enough:


In the first, you can kind of see the third supporting washer hidden behind the front two through the hole.

-------------------------------
Expanding plunger tube/increasing plunger draw
--------------------------------

If you followed method 1 for the plunger head, you're going to want the white AR piece. Dremel it out fully, and bevel the inner lip a bit:


Slap it over your plunger head:


Bam! About .5" of increased volume.

If you followed method 2 for the plunger head you need to do absolutely nothing. The washers will be lying flush against the plunger rod, which gives you the .5".

Notice that method 1 requires expanding the plunger tube out; method 2 reduces the plunger rod in.

To allow for the rear section of shell to move enough for the extra draw, you may also need to dremel down the ridges in the front section of shell that run up along to the front sight. I don't have a picture of this, because you need to dremel down those ridges anyways for a linked breech, so I didn't think it was necessary for the plunger draw expansion. I've been informed it is.

A rotary tool with sanding and grinding bits, a cutting disc, and a high speed cutting bit.

Really though, if you had to ask that question, you shouldn't attempt the mod(s) described.

-------------------------------
Universal coupler system
--------------------------------

This consist of an internal CPVC coupler and an external PVC one. If you followed method 2, you will also have the room for an internal section of PVC to act as a "coupler" for 19/32 brass.

Most 1/2" CPVC internal couplers take the CPVC coupler, cut it and then glue inside the orange cap like this:


However, I prefer to dremel out the ridges, so that my coupler can rest like this:


When cutting the coupler, and with method 1, be mindful of how much space you have. Ideally, the internal coupler will go to just where the plunger head rests:

Be sure to leave yourself some room for padding also.

Affixing the internal coupler is easy. Drop it in, center it, and then fill the dead space around it with hot glue:


Now cut a 1/2" PVC coupler in half and attach it to the outside:


I center everything by running a piece of brass through (PVC around it to center in the PVC coupler):


Now if you followed method 2, you will still have a lot of extra room from using 1/2 of a 1/2" CPVC coupler. What I did was take a section of 1/2" SCH40 PVC, and bored out a small section of it to fit 1/2" CPVC (the right side of the picture):


Drop it through and hot glue it in. Depending on where you cut the CPVC coupler, you may need to dremel out a ridge so the CPVC can slide through:


Don't forget to add a darts stop! Also, padding (not pictured):

-------------------------------
Linked breech attachment point
--------------------------------

Take a rod of spare plastic and glue it into the rear section of the shell like so:

You will also need to dremel out the plate in that portion of the shell so the rod can fit. I used a section of pump handle from the SMDTG pump.

Cut the rod to a little more than an inch, 3/4" down, drill a hole and put in a 5/8" segment of metal rod or wooden dowel. I used a segment of a #6-32 screw. Now wrap etape around the base of the rod such that it has an OD of 1/2"

You can see how this system works. The CPVC used for the linked breech has the L slots cut on each side. Slide the CPVC over the attachment point, and then turn, locking it in place.

Ranges?

Depends on the springs you put in. I'm running 4.5" of McMaster spring 9637k19 and an NF spring, both stretched to 5.5" and then retempered. The reinforcements are there to handle the 9637k19 with the 9637k26 (+bow), but I found priming the gun to be really annoying.

With the current setup, ranges are "pretty good" Good enough that I might switch to a 10" or 11" barrel, because the 9" just isn't cutting it.

I stopped by the McMaster warehouse and picked up some aluminum standoffs:



And figured since there's a war today, I might as well get my primary all the way done. Writeup is finished. Please excuse the shitty pictures, as I used my phone, forgetting to pack a camera.

Also, hotel showers make perfect places to go to town on PVC with a rotary tool, as the shower curtain and damp wall catches most of the dust that flies around.

It's nice to see someone actually built one of these. How consistently does it shoot?

Anyways, I have a new plunger head design.


Parts are (from left to right in the picture):
- 1/2" SAE washer glued on top of 3/4 OD x 5/32 ID steel washer
- 1-1/4" OD x 3/16" ID Neoprene washer
- #8 SAE washer
- 1" OD x 7/16 ID fiber washer glued with 7/16 OD x 7/32 OD fiber washer
- 3/4 OD x 5/32 ID steel washer
- #8 lock washer
- #8-32 1" machine screw


The key is that you don't fill in the dimple created by the 1/2" SAE backed with 3/4". You place the #8 on the other side of the neoprene, and thus when the entire assembly is put together, the #8 forces down on the neoprene into that dimple, which helps form the washer into a nice cup shape, while the front washers maintain that shape.


This thus provides for excellent seal.

Well, I didn't do a great job on the clip but it's pretty decent with the breech when I use darts that fit just right and the follower doesn't hang up.

That's an easy fix. Sand out the notches on the follower that fit over the bars you put into your clip to make it stefan compatible. If you have further issues, PM me.

Since your body is a single piece, how do you work with the rear plug/spring rest so you can remove it and install/maintain your plunger?

Stop complaining about having a tiny little bruise for a couple of days. I have been shot in almost every place you don't want to get shot (ex: forehead, temple, throat, groin, eye, teeth) and I am not complaining about it, I just say "nice shot" and keep going.

With single-bb dome darts I've put holes - not figurative holes, but actually dimples of pierced skin that bleed profusely - in people with blasters that aren't even at the peak of current blaster performance (i.e. range + rof).

Also because LRS have a long range (by name) it typically means that they have a slow RoF giving the close range guys(ex: gun-slingers, beserkers) time to sneak up and kill them.

You play too many video games where a sn¡per rifle takes longer to reload. In actual nerf technology, we've reached the point where we can get 100+ shots out just as fast as you can reprime a maverick. The only blasters with higher ROF are the automatics, with their rather pathetic "I could dodge all your nice and lofty shots and rush in and barrel tap you at this distance" ranges.

Have fun with that palm sander.

I think your problem was that you ended up sanding down the ridges the rotation mech attaches to, rather than just everything around that.

I like the new plunger "rod," but how exactly did you rig up the wire retraction (the reference to the pen is ambiguous) such that when the gun fires the wire doesn't snap forward in a dangerous manner?

I also disagree with calling this a +pistol, as it's essentially a +bow without a stock. Add a barrel and this is nowhere near pistol size.

Is there a write-up soon to come?

Will you learn to read anytime soon?

Ah, got what you mean for wire retraction, thanks for the clarification. I thought you had completely eliminated wire snap, but it's just contained because the handle doesn't flop all over.

Merz, a hand bike pump has the same air output as an At3k pump, but has infinitely better seal and efficiency. Ryan, you should put another fitting on the hard tank so you can hook up a real bike pump, the kind you can stand on and is 3' with 2" diameter.

What ever shall I do to appease The Unholy Ménage à Trois?

My modding would be infinitely better with a CAD program, laser cutter, and knowledge of trigonometry.

You guys are a bunch of fussy, argumentative E-thugs who gang up on any poster who remotely disagrees with or contradicts one of your buddies.

Dun be hatin' just 'cuz we get madz ghey sexytiem wid' tehm nerf gunz.

Like I said, it boils down to preference.

You must be into some kinky shit because ramrodding that many barrels to gain an extra .5s on the rotation (you still have to pump more than once) is pretty masochistic.

Keep it coming.

Yes sir.

P.s. I know getting all of my semen off of your face will take a while, but when can I get my laser cutter?

The top is essential to flight. The reason they glide so well is large horizontal surface area, and small vertical area. Does a piece of paper with a huge hole cut into it fall faster than a normal sheet of paper?

Actually a lot of disk shooters fire a flat piece of foam with a hole cut in it.

There is more at work here than just an airfoil and unless you're a mechanical/aerospace engineer or fluid dynamics specialist, the best answer is just to guess-and-check.

Pros:

- Fun war, fun peeps

 

Cons:

- Reloading magazines means we played less than one round per hour of Nerf, not counting the lunch break that went over

- Confusing objective placement that was unsuccessful in motivating more creative nerfing than standing near the spawn

- Unfortunately lacking in large avian apex predators and confirmed kill counts

Excellent modification. I have one question for you though. Is this modification durable? When I mean durable, I mean that it will be able to last for a few wars or 1 at the least?

Durability of a modification is almost never inherent to the concept but rather in the execution.