Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 November 2006 - 04:44 PM in Modifications

I don't see how the difference in your range with your angled to flat shots, that is not possible, or it doesn't seem that way. I have seen BBBs used as primaries, and 60 feet isn't very good for a primary, unless the ROF is amazing. My AT1K gets 65 (flat, I'm not shitting you) and the ROF is much better than my BBB. And where did you get that alluminum?

1. The difference in range is because the angled range isn't an average. I fired twenty shots from each and took the average distance for the flat range. I then took the three darts that went over 100' (in the case of my Longshot) and fired those at an angle. I did this to find the maximum range. Other variables might be the angle I fired at. I fired it at a 45 degree angle which may or may not be the angle most people use to measure their gun's angled range.

2. My BBB isn't my primary my LS is. The crayola barrel is just a temporary fix until I can get some brass, then I'm hoping I can get it to around 90'.

3. Actually, I'm not even sure it is aluminum. I found it in my house and I think it was part of a towel rack. It was originally 18'' long so I used the spare 8'' for the barrel of my now singled AT4K (I accidentally snapped a gear in half on the already broken rotation mechanism). The reason I think it's aluminum is because it's a silvery color and aluminum is a common metal so the chances of it being aluminum are high. I just hope it's not lead. If you're into buying stuff online, then you can find it on McMaster-Carr. If not, then I guess your best bet would be Ace.

Falcon, was that PJ? Also, don't the four brass barrels make the X-bow extremely front heavy?

Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 November 2006 - 12:48 PM in Modifications

Here's my new Longshot. It has a 10'' aluminum barrel that fits my darts pretty losely, but is still a way better fit than the original barrel. The only down side about the new barrel is that my darts jam with it, so I have to put the darts at the top of the barrel and let the dart slide into the bolt. I then push the dart further into the bolt so it's closer the plunger. This gives it maybe a 7-10' boost in range. You can't tell from the picture, but I finnaly got around to epoxing the front gun on. I tried super glue but it just wasn't sturdy enough. Now it feels even sturdier than the rest of the gun. With the new BBB spring I put in, it gets 70' flat consistently and up to 150' angled! It's my first gun to shoot past the century mark!


And here's my BBB. It was my first modified rifle and my first gun to shoot past the 50 foot mark. I was amazed by how much further it shot with just a crayola barrel. It has a tight fit with my darts but isn't enough t hinder the ROF. I also lightened the plunger by drilling a ton of holes on the large, winged-shape pieces on the plunger. I figured it was just dead weight. It shoots 57' flat consistently and up to 125' angled but doesn't have the accuracy my Longshot has.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 29 April 2007 - 12:20 PM in Modifications

These are some of my more creative mods/ difficult to do.

Here's my Longshot. It has a 10" aluminum barrel that fits my darts loosely. It has a BBB spring and a plunger head reinforcement. Range is about 85-90.



This is my Nite-Mav. It's almost finished. I just have to readjust the trigger plate, but is otherwise perfectly functional. All of the pieces were made from 1/16" polycarbonate. The catch guard was secured using some epoxy gel and the trigger plate and plunger tube is screwed on. There is also a piece of polycarbonate up in the front of the plunger tube that redirects air only to the barrels.





These two Nite Finders are my new favorites. The first one is minimized and has ammo holders in the battery case. The second has a Home Depot spring, a longer screw supporting the plunger head, a reinforced plunger rod, and has been lubricated with silicon spray. I had to reinforce it because the force of the spring would cause the plunger rod to bend to the side.

What makes these two special are their barrels. I haven't seen anything like them before. The barrels are regular 1/2" PETG ordered from McMaster. I wanted a progressive barrel but I didn't want the added weight or the cost of brass. So, I ordered a .51 drill bit and a .53 drill bit from McMaster. They were each about $12.00. With the .51 bit I drilled about 4" from the top. And with the .53 I drilled 2" from the top. I was able to simulate the nesting effects of brass with PETG. It's the brass equivalent of having placing 1" of 1/2 and 3" of 17/32 in 5" of 19/32. These Nite Finders were intended as a prototype for spring powered turreted guns like the DTG and the Firefly.







Comments?

Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 October 2007 - 10:07 AM in Modifications

I've been playing around with Gimp. It's a little messy but it still looks some what decent.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 08 July 2008 - 11:16 PM in Modifications

Semi-auto Magstrike. In theory, it should have all of the accuracy and distance of a Longshot with the ROF of a Magstrike. In reality, I overestimated the size of the bladder and desgined a bolt that requires more air and pressure than the bladder provides. I'm also trying to fix a couple leaks.

EDIT: The Magstrike isn't fully fuctional right now. I just put there to show where it would be once I get the bolt to start working. Later on I think I'll cut off the lip and slide it in from a hole in the right side of the MS. The bolt should also be a lot shorter, just long enough to reach the front of the clip.





Also still in works. I'm almost finished. I just have to make enough room for the trigger and smooth out the rotation system, and attach the pump.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 October 2007 - 11:10 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 02 October 2006 - 12:47 PM in Modifications

Not much here. The SM3K has a trigger fix and it's pump is plugged. The LS still needs to be glued on, but both parts have their air restricters removed. And last are my DTGs, only the air resticters were removed.

Nice job on the Vaporizer/ Airtech intergration Trogdor!
What did you use to cover the Nerf logos when you painted your Longshot Boltsniper?

Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 April 2007 - 11:10 PM in Modifications

I've been busy.

This is my Airtech 4000. I took the turret out to see if I could fix it and I ended up breaking it even more. So I singled it. It has a 12" .5" PVC barrel in a .5" coupler. It shot about 85 before the pump started leaking.





Here's my Titan. I can't seem to get it to pass 90 without the darts spiraling out of control. Probably because I forgot to put weights in my latest batch of mega darts. For indoor wars I use a 6" barrel with stock darts at three to four pumps. That way, I can use my Titan without leaving holes in the wall ........... and people.



The last of my mega guns. The barrel was a vast improvement over the Crayola that I previously used. I can now accurately hit a plastic cup 9/10 times from 30 feet away. Max the gun gets about 75.



There's more on the way.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 September 2006 - 10:25 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 May 2007 - 04:12 PM in Homemades

I just finished my version of Carbon's Big SNAP. I didn't change much, all I did was use 3/8 aluminum for the plunger rod, 3/4 PVC for the handle, a strip of aluminum for the trigger, and I added some foam on the inside to deaden the sound of the plunger head hitting the reducing brushing. I also used PETG for the barrel instead of brass.

As for ranges, I haven't been able to test it with darts. I still have to widen the barrel with my drill bit so all I've been doing is shooting rubber balls. The balls however fire extremely fast, traveling 35' with only a 2" drop.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 May 2007 - 05:29 PM in Homemades

I redid my Big SNAP's barrel because I got tired of just shooting rubber balls and I wanted to range test the thing with stefans. To do this, took off the coupler and reducing brushing from my pump action Big SNAP and put it on my working Big SNAP. I had to buy another reducing brushing for my pump action because it was too small so I decided to make good use of it.

Here it is with a ported 12" barrel. It fires about 75'.





And here it is with a ported 16" barrel. With it I can fire about 85-90'.





The porting is kind of useless with the SNAPs because the air isn't moving fast enough for it to effectively silence the gun since there's a huge, metal plunger head smacking the front of the gun every time I fire. The barrels were originally intended for my Titan which is somewhat quieter with the barrels.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 24 May 2007 - 07:08 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 15 September 2006 - 06:46 PM in Darts and Barrels

Why is not having to shape the dome by hand a pro? I like doing it, personally...

It's easier to get somewhat of a consistency.


I've stopped making CDTS's now and just stretch my foam to the exact same width of tham instead. I plan on drilling holes in the ones that are going to be used in my airguns and not drill holes for ones in my spring guns. And to quickly tell the difference between the two during a war, I'll use the sparkley red hot glue for my air darts and and sparkley blue for my spring darts.


Thanks for clarifying that sam.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 12 July 2007 - 04:17 PM in Darts and Barrels

Here's a little diagram of what I use to cool my darts now.



The grey is a plastic container, the red is a glass or cup, the dark blue is salt water, and the light blue is crushed ice with salt sprinkled on top of it. The ice from the plastic container cools down the water inside the cup. By keeping the cooling area and the dipping area separate, but in close contact, I can dip the darts and cool them instantly without having to worry about pieces of ice floating up to the top and messing up the dome. It's anything revolutionary but it gets the job done.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 22 August 2006 - 03:56 PM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by Shadow 92 on 19 August 2006 - 12:24 AM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by Shadow 92 on 01 June 2007 - 04:53 PM in Darts and Barrels

Posted by Shadow 92 on 11 July 2008 - 12:20 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 September 2006 - 11:19 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 September 2006 - 01:22 PM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 07 January 2007 - 12:12 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 January 2007 - 10:24 PM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 10:25 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 January 2007 - 08:22 PM in Modifications

I just thought of something. What if instead of where you have the 9/16 with the tightening rings you have 10" of 9/16 with 6" of 17/32 starting where the rings begin? That way you have the full effects of a true progressive barrel with your existing breech.

Here's my ten minute paint drawing of it.

The light gray is the 9/16, the blue is the 17/32, the green is the 1/2 and the other color is the 19/32.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 April 2007 - 05:38 PM in Homemades

Okay, this design never went anywhere due to lack of time but I've been researching pneumatic control parts and I'm working on an HPA tank and regulator setup so I'm reincarnating this project.

3. As many ready-made parts as possible to reduce machining time
The original valve design works identically to commercially available directional control valves. Buying one of those will save me a ton of time.
4. Redesign breech actuator
The current position and configuration involves too much friction, too many individual parts, and not enough surface area for the working pressure to operate against. This part will be moved to ahead of and above the breech.

I think I can help you with that. Awhile back I tried to design a true semi-auto gun that ran off low pressure air. When looking for designs to base it off of I found these paintball diagrams. (Not my pics)




I decided with all the millions of dollars they pour into paintball R&D the current designs must be the most efficent and quickest out there.
As you can see from the pics, the Angel (the fastest firing marker EVER) uses a limited number of parts and is therefore more efficient. And if you intend to use solenoid valves to control firing, I suggest using paintball solenoids. They're smaller, need less energy, and can handle more pressure than standard valves.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 27 April 2007 - 06:51 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 April 2007 - 08:08 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 17 November 2006 - 07:02 PM in Off Topic

Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 August 2007 - 11:34 AM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 05 September 2006 - 05:43 PM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 06 September 2006 - 05:56 PM in Modifications

Posted by Shadow 92 on 03 May 2007 - 08:47 PM in Off Topic

Posted by Shadow 92 on 17 July 2008 - 07:51 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 10 October 2007 - 06:51 PM in Homemades

I found some valves used on pneumatic spudguns. It uses a piston and a pressure difference to fire allowing for faster opening times than a the valves seen in most nerf guns and has a higher flow rate than QEV's and modified sprinkler valves.

Piston Valves

These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 11 December 2007 - 06:59 PM in Homemades

These valves can easily be converted for use with nerf applications with amazing results. In fact, I'm guessing that a design such as the one below has enough power to act as a cannon for multiple Mongo Stefans and be around the same size as a Big SNAP.

I designed it mostly as a proof of concept sort of thing. The goal was a blaster that was both relatively compact and powerful.

Heres what I'm designing now. I know its not nerf, but designing a semi auto paintball-type gun is a lot easier than designing a new semi auto nerf gun. Its works off a two way valve that uses air pressure to move a bolt and fire a ball. The general design is based on the Smart Parts Ion with some changes to make it fire at a lower pressure. The trade off is that the bolt will only be able to move around five times a second compared to fifteen. The numbers aren't real, just rough guesses.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 22 September 2007 - 02:57 PM in Homemades

Here it is redesigned:
This is the valve at rest. The spring holds the piston back keeping it sealed. The piston is now composed of a threaded rod with rubber fender washers, steel fender washers, and some nuts. This will allow the piston to be adjusted to match the desired trigger pull.

Valve opened.
Due to the speed of the sprinkler valve's opening time, the pilot valve should only have to remain open for a short amount of time (as demonstrated in the picture below).

Valve closed/ sealed off
After the valve is opened, it is immediately sealed off when the trigger is pulled a certain length. This allows the sprinkler valve to be opened and closed at a predetermined time, creating a semi automatic valve.

Valve in full auto position
If the sprinkler valve and pilot valve are connected to a homemade with components similar to a Magstrike or Rapid Fire 20, then the valve can be used for fully automatic firing. By fully depressing the trigger, the pilot valve remains open, allowing a constant supply of air flow. If the pilot and solenoid valve is connected to a regular airtank, then this mode can be used to dump the entire supply of air.

Posted by Shadow 92 on 18 June 2007 - 01:36 PM in Homemades

Posted by Shadow 92 on 20 September 2007 - 12:40 PM in Homemades

After I spent sometime reading about how to modify a sprinkler valve on Spudfiles, I realized that all the blowgun trigger did was vent air. The length of time that the blowgun trigger was depressed was the amount of time that the valve was opened. So all I did was design a valve that vented pressure from the diaphragm of a sprinkler valve and I got this.

This picture reflects my influence from Dr. Nerf's semi-auto valve.

Valve at rest


Valve open


Valve sealed off


More details later...

EDIT: just realized that the valve still vents air even when it's "sealed off."

Posted by Shadow 92 on 28 September 2007 - 11:50 PM in General Nerf

Posted by Shadow 92 on 25 June 2007 - 12:49 PM in Modifications