thedom21's Content
There have been 270 items by thedom21 (Search limited from 21-January 97)
#326652 Wyes on mcmaster!
Posted by
on 10 February 2013 - 11:07 PM
in
General Nerf
#293537 Wtt Stock Sm1500 And Modded Sm1000 For Bbb And 2k
Posted by
on 29 January 2011 - 01:35 PM
in
General Nerf
#303779 WNTS
Posted by
on 24 August 2011 - 02:25 PM
in
Homemades
Sooo...I can't find a well nut. The guys at my menards dont even know what it is. -.-
Who else should carry them?
Ask for part number 83115 at Menards. It should be in the drawers by the hadndi-pack's of nuts and bolts and other hardware. ON the drawer there is a picture like the one to the right on the McM page. If they don't have it try ace. If all else fails you can just order from McMBased on what Dom told me, this should work well.
Even though I've already told you, nice job on this Dom.
Ryan thanks for the compliment, That looks like it should work.
#303701 WNTS
Posted by
on 21 August 2011 - 11:22 PM
in
Homemades
UPDATE
Upon further testing I realized sometimes the balster wouldn't fire and the problem was the O-ring got stuck in the PVC and was just sliding around on the well nut. The solution to this is to superglue your o-ring on.
#303635 WNTS
Posted by
on 21 August 2011 - 12:14 AM
in
Homemades
ON topic: thanks for the compliments.
#303752 WNTS
Posted by
on 23 August 2011 - 08:10 AM
in
Homemades
SO all the store pumps I bought kept breaking on me so I decided to make a homemade pump.
Write up coming soon, Probably tomorrow as I will not be home all day today.
#303809 WNTS
Posted by
on 25 August 2011 - 10:47 AM
in
Homemades
There is a few reasons the well nut o-ring combo is better.This is amazing.
But waaait. So if the o ring is doing the sealing now...can we just use a washer instead of the well nut? Or maybe a washer and nylon spacer to make the same shape as the well nut? Would it be any better to switch? I think the best thing would be a cone of rubber with a nut inside. You could get a really big well nut and make a cone shape out of it, but you would have trouble keeping it flat and regular all the way around. If you made a little nick with your exacto knife or whatever your using air would leak. Wait wait wait. Aubuchon sells little rubber stoppers to put in bottles. just put a hole in it and a nut behind it!
Smaller
Well nuts are already threaded and have the hole in them so no need to try and drill a centered hole.
Cheaper its so cheap because the sealing consists of only 2 parts.
Easy to get a good seal.
I am sure there are more but those are the biggest advantages. Another thong you could do is a bigger well nut in 3/4" pvc. This would allow for better airflow to the dart.
Semi auto valve, write up soon to come.
#303654 WNTS
Posted by
on 21 August 2011 - 12:22 PM
in
Homemades
I was having sealing issues with the trigger and I thought it was just because they were poorly built but after building 3 more I realized that wasn't it. So I came up with a revised trigger design.
For the new trigger you need an O-ring. The one I used was from a broken hornet pump.
Here is the new setup.
Slip the O-ring on like so.
EDIT you are going to want to super glue the o-ring on, If you don not is sometimes gets stuck in the pvc so you can't fire it.
Bevel out the sch80 pvc. Here it is next to some non-beveled stuff.
Assemble like so.
I also filled this hole with hotglue.
It now seals perfectly every time. Next update will be with my finished homemade pump.
EDIT: Video update on it.
#303609 WNTS
Posted by
on 20 August 2011 - 05:43 PM
in
Homemades
This is not as much about the actual blaster as you can vary that to fit your wants/needs. This is a write up on how I made mine but to also get this trigger design out there as it is simple, cheap, and the parts can be bought from your local hardware store. This is rev1 so yes it has flaws but I figured I would make this write up so others can make their own version and we can collectively from what we learn by making our own combine our ideas to make the ultimate blaster.
Materials
Trigger
1/4" x 3" carriage bolt
1/4-20m rubber well nut part# 83115 at Menards
Small spring(I just got this one out of my box of springs)
#6 O-ring
Body
3/4" Pvc
1/2" Pvc
3/4" T-joint
3/4" coupler
3/4" end cap
3/4" x 1/2" reducing bushing x2
1/2" 90 degree elbow
Tank/pump
1" Pvc
1/2" Pvc
1" coupling x2
1" 90 degree elbow
1" x 1/2" reducing Bushing
1" x 1/2" reducing bushing female thread
1/2" male threaded adapter
1/2" x 3/4" reducing bushing
3/4" 90 Degree elbow
Pump of your choice
Adhesives
Solvent weld
Super Glue
Hot glue
Other
E-tape
Cost
Depending on your pump between $14-$20
Time
Took me about half an hour to build not including cure time.
Tools
Minimum Requirements
Hacksaw
Sandpaper
Hobby Knife
Drill
Helpful Tools
Miter Saw
Assembly
This is how the blaster will be assembled
Body
Put one or your 3/4" x 1/2" bushing onto your T-joint and a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc in that.
(this picture is wrong don't put that 1" x 1/2" bushing on yet)
Drill a hole as centered as possible in the 3/4" T
Next cut 2 2" segments of 3/4" pvc and assemble on one side of your 3/4" T like so.
Put another 3/4" x 1/2" bushing in the T followed by a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc followed by a 1/2" 90 degree elbow. This is where you barrel will go. I like to use a hopper setup.
This is what you should have so far.
Now we are going to put the trigger on.
Its pretty self explanatory but for all you idiots out there, Assemble your parts like shown. (there should be an O-ring between the spring and the T)
Now push this assemble into the corresponding holes and screw the bolt into the well nut.
Yes its that easy!
Just in case I filled this hole with goop.
Tank/pump
Sorry no picture of this but you want to assemble your parts like this,
3/4" x 1/2" bushing.....in 1" coupler.....7" of 1" pvc in the other side.....1" elbow.....2" of 1" pvc.....3/4" x 1/2" female thread bushing.
All these parts need to be solvent welded together as they will be holding pressure.
Now to attach your pump to your tank if you used the same pump as I did. IF you used a different pump then use your brain and figure something out.
Take your 3/4" elbow and put a 3/4" x 1/2" bushing in one side. Then put a 1 1/2" segment of 1/2" pvc in that with a 1/2" male adapter on that.
These pieces also need to be solvent welded together.
Put some E-tape on the pump so it fits in the elbow nicely. Put a few drops of superglue on it and push it in as far as it will go.
Then put solvent weld to seal it off.
Use this
Wrap the threads of the male adapter in Teflon tape and screw it in. You end up with this.
You can now put the segment of 1/2" pvc from the trigger into the 3/4" x 1/2" bushing of the tank.
Pump it a few times to make sure it doesn't leak and you trigger works. If all works correctly you can solvent weld them together. You end up with this with your pump of choice on the bottom.
Ranges
With slugs and 14" pvc barrel with 12" of nested PETG I am getting 90-100 flat with 9 pumps. You can't pump it past 10 pumps otherwise you will break the pump shaft. So I guess that is an oprv of sorts for you. rev2 will have a built in oprv and an almost semi auto system that is optional.
#303639 WNTS
Posted by
on 21 August 2011 - 01:07 AM
in
Homemades
That's what I was going for with this gun. Cheap and simple.
#303549 Where do i find barrel spacers?
Posted by
on 19 August 2011 - 10:50 AM
in
General Nerf
You're welcome.
#361671 Whats the verdict on Worker rubber darts and Z-pattern waffles being a
Posted by
on 27 September 2017 - 03:25 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Worker darts are some of the best darts I've used in terms of reliability and accuracy. They perform exceptionally but they are definitely about as hard of a tip as you should allow. I shot myself with a few of them at about 20 feet away out of a Caliburn before using them at and outdoor war and they left a mark on my back for sure.
If you are using high powered guns on a smaller playing field they should probably be banned. If you have a large outdoor playing field they are totally fine.
#361698 Whats the verdict on Worker rubber darts and Z-pattern waffles being a
Posted by
on 01 October 2017 - 06:40 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
Worker darts hurt less. I got shot by them with a caliburn and it wasn't thaaaaat bad (hurt less then a FVJ out of my LS).
EDIT: Although I'd recommend worker's darts, there is nothing wrong with the waffle darts. It's just that the consistency of the batch you buy can vary, whereas worker is far more reliable.
Correct they are not that bad, but I did feel a bit guilty shooting them at little kids so I thought I would share.
#298919 UFC Style Promo Vids
Posted by
on 29 May 2011 - 10:21 AM
in
Nerf Wars
#305187 TornadowSnapbow Questions
Posted by
on 29 September 2011 - 09:32 PM
in
Homemades
#305683 TornadowSnapbow Questions
Posted by
on 10 October 2011 - 08:51 PM
in
Homemades
There are the pics.
#361750 Titan-Turian Sleeper
Posted by
on 11 October 2017 - 01:28 PM
in
Modifications
I'm interested to see a video of how it all works together. Is the breech automated or do you cycle it by hand?
#307356 The recon blast bazooka
Posted by
on 14 November 2011 - 07:29 PM
in
Modifications
#287433 The Clothespin Trigger Mk2
Posted by
on 24 October 2010 - 02:22 PM
in
Homemades
#287422 The Clothespin Trigger Mk2
Posted by
on 24 October 2010 - 10:03 AM
in
Homemades
#287122 The Clothespin Trigger Mk2
Posted by
on 18 October 2010 - 06:56 AM
in
Homemades
#290397 Strongarm Modification
Posted by
on 07 December 2010 - 06:40 PM
in
Modifications
#359915 Springers that can use hoppers
Posted by
on 15 May 2017 - 11:07 AM
in
Darts and Barrels
Tripleshot/quadshot/handcannon can hopper if you just slap a wye on the front. PAS can also hopper as can the RRDG if you chop the turret off. Technically a modded xbow or Tbow can but those are both essentially homemade slapped inside their respective shells.
Personally I would use a tripleshot quadshot or handcannon, whichever one you end up finding. PAS is fun but the handle can be awkward to deal with if you throw a crazy spring in it. Also, the plastic on the handle and priming grip gets very slippery if you are using it at a war and are getting sweaty. Tripleshot is a very easy mod and they are a tremendous amount of fun and can be very competitive and much more comfortable to hold right out of the box.
#295818 Spring Problems On A Diskshot Project.
Posted by
on 11 March 2011 - 05:07 PM
in
Modifications
#361036 SPANO 2017
Posted by
on 18 July 2017 - 09:04 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Count me in boys.
#330773 SPANO 2013
Posted by
on 10 June 2013 - 10:06 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#328860 SPANO 2013
Posted by
on 18 April 2013 - 07:04 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#300123 SPANO 2011 Recap
Posted by
on 18 June 2011 - 08:59 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Pros
-Rain...it was fun to slide around on the wet grass.
-Lots of new people
-Getting to see lots of cool blasters
-My quadshot performed very well which is good since it is all I had
-Paul letting me use his rainbow
-Not getting hit by Stark's diddle cannon thing when we were in the tower
Cons
-Rain...got annoying not being able to run and stop and I got really muddy and wet and so did all my stuff
-Big blasts
-Welts....most of them from Big Blast's or UMB's
-Ending when DemonLord got shot in the eye with a UMB from 10 feet and being right next to the shooter
-Not enough darts
#317392 SPANO
Posted by
on 22 June 2012 - 10:02 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#317355 SPANO
Posted by
on 22 June 2012 - 01:03 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#316804 SPANO
Posted by
on 09 June 2012 - 11:57 PM
in
Nerf Wars
Don't bring gorilla and banana kid, he was almost as bad as singled titan kid and plus he took some of my guns.I'll be there, probably +1 or two. The gorrila and his banana may not be attending this time though.
#316736 SPANO
Posted by
on 08 June 2012 - 09:42 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#317251 SPANO
Posted by
on 20 June 2012 - 04:38 PM
in
Nerf Wars
#292875 Solvent Welding
Posted by
on 15 January 2011 - 04:51 PM
in
General Nerf
Oh Crap. I searched and that didn't even come up. Admins please delete this.I would buy some primer and PVC/All purpose cement. This should help as well.
#292872 Solvent Welding
Posted by
on 15 January 2011 - 04:34 PM
in
General Nerf
#312860 SM3k problem
Posted by
on 14 March 2012 - 08:52 PM
in
Modifications
#285072 Sm1k Tank Repair/improvements?
Posted by
on 08 September 2010 - 07:01 AM
in
Modifications
1. I think I would do the superglue or JB Weld with epoxy putty over it.I got a broken Sm1k recently and I am determined to fix it to the point of at least singled. I have already opened it, and cut off the trigger. The cam and stuff are long gone, and the spring was already mangled before I removed it, most likely I will end up Bic Pen modding it. Now, for the issues:
1: The weak plastic and poor design puts a lot of stress on two points and it snapped. I could just super glue them together, which is basically what was tried on a Sm500 of mine that broke the same way, but from experience it will not last more than 30 or so shots before snapping again. What do you guys recommend as far as a means of repairing this piece? I'm thinking super glue then globbing in some epoxy putty.
2: The back O-Ring housing is another weak point, it takes very little movement to make the tank leak from the back. I am wondering if there is any hope of making it more durable, as the parts that make everything line up perfect are gone. I was thinking of lubing up the pin and then globbing some goop on top of the O-Ring, not sure if this would help harm or do nothing
I think that's it, any help is appreciated. Thanks for reading!
2. Yes that would work it worked om both of my 2k tanks so it shouldn't be any different.
#294209 Slugs And Domes And Taggers, Oh My!
Posted by
on 08 February 2011 - 06:31 PM
in
General Nerf
#359667 slugs and breech help
Posted by
on 03 May 2017 - 03:14 PM
in
Darts and Barrels
If the tip is not fitting into the breech but the foam does fit I would check the size of your washer and or felt tip. Are you using #6 or #8 washers or something bigger?
