DjOnslaught's Content

#350576 Straight Pistol Blaster, Help!

Posted by DjOnslaught on 07 January 2016 - 11:31 AM in Homemades

http://nerf.wikia.com/wiki/Manta_Ray. This is the gun i reference earlier and there are modsome available in the mod directory of that forum that show the internals. It seems like a toned down version of what your looking for.

#351620 Stock Thunderblast vs Detachable Missile launcher

Posted by DjOnslaught on 18 February 2016 - 07:24 AM in General Nerf

I would sell em separately.

#356502 Stampede select fire

Posted by DjOnslaught on 30 October 2016 - 06:09 PM in Modifications

There was a arduino thread for this blaster started by Kingbob that me and him worked on in the thread and he did that. Reference that thread for help

#350805 Stampede motor gear replacement

Posted by DjOnslaught on 16 January 2016 - 10:50 AM in Modifications

Have you looked on McMaster Carr for a matching one?

#351377 Stampede internals question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 06 February 2016 - 09:25 PM in Modifications

Thanks Jwasko for the info on the motor. The switch in question appears to be part of the reset mechanism to allow for full auto, so even with a select fire switch I'd likely need it.

#351418 Stampede internals question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 09 February 2016 - 11:38 AM in Modifications

Anyone able to provide a buy link to a us site for a solid replacement motor

#351387 Stampede internals question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 07 February 2016 - 08:20 AM in Modifications

The gears are actually still in good shape. The motor is shot, and so is the little switch under the gear catch piece (long white piece of plastic that seems to ride in the gears also.)

Once I get a new motor (couldn't find one on ebay or amazon) and get that segment working, I'm gonna rewire in 14ga wire rework the batter compartment to hold the arduino, and the actual batteries which will like be 9v batteries

#351373 Stampede internals question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 06 February 2016 - 08:46 PM in Modifications

Does anyone know what size and style of motor the stampede has? I also need to know the type of switch is inside (I know it looks identical to the locks that are inside).

I recently purchased a stampede off ebay as working.... it's a completely unworking gut for rebuild gun.. if it's metal it's rusted, if it is metal and moves (including most springs) it's seized up (hence the motor and switch inquiry since they are unreadable)...

Gonna be a interesting project for sure since I intend to do a stockade integration along with select fire and a few other things.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#351386 Stampede internals question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 07 February 2016 - 08:16 AM in Modifications

Have you filed a dispute to get your money back? The item was not as described.

I'm keeping the gun, if it dispute it he might want it back, and right now it's in pieces in my work area.

#357986 Stampede and XBZ sizes

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 February 2017 - 12:03 PM in Modifications

I recently aquired a firefly shell, but i didn't know what to do with it. At first I wanted to be generic and put a stryfe inside, but stryfes are boring.
I figured I could be original and integrate a stampede. The only problem is is that the stampede already has a nice stock.
So why not make a "sleeper" (it won't look sleeper when there is a mag sticking out) stampede-firefly. So i was wondering if it would fit.

Theres really no reason for the firefly to be added to a stampede in the way you describe. You could possibly however cut down the firefly to put on top the back end of the stampede to utilize a xbz that fires threw the sight ports in the carry handle

#357419 Stampede

Posted by DjOnslaught on 03 January 2017 - 08:18 PM in General Nerf

Motor might be seized up or the switch isn't fully activating it.

#355699 spring-loaded magazines

Posted by DjOnslaught on 22 August 2016 - 08:11 AM in Darts and Barrels

Springs only fatigue over time if you're compressing them well beyond their elastic limits (their fully compressed or fully stressed maximum). The springs in Nerf magazines are compound-leg torsion springs and are not going anywhere near their elastic limit when the follower is bottomed out.

It's only bad for your darts.

Exactly what Slug said as far as nerf mags go, there is also the mod linked above, and a new dart zone blaster with a swappable turret (even comes with the second one) and those are nerf compatible far as I know.

#355727 spring-loaded magazines

Posted by DjOnslaught on 23 August 2016 - 04:51 AM in Darts and Barrels

Keeping darts in revolver type cylinders isn't great, since it slightly deforms the darts over time.This leads the darts sliding out of the cylinder and reduced power. At least this was the case with older blasters, like the Spectre and Maverick. I assume the same still applies with more modern cylinder Nerf blasters, but I could be wrong.

Also you could jack up the AR springs, if you left them in that is.

#355293 Spinsanity Mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 31 July 2016 - 10:06 AM in Modifications

I love my spinsanity, only thing missing is a stock to make it fantastic.

Before you re-glued on the rubber did you happen to try and put a nerf dart threw the flywheels?

#354077 Solder: Lead vs Lead Free

Posted by DjOnslaught on 09 June 2016 - 11:01 AM in Modifications

I did electronics diagnostics and repairs for a hospital equipment manufacturer for about 19 years, always used lead free flux (rosin) cored solder never had any issues and 98% of my work never came back for any issues.

#354068 Solder: Lead vs Lead Free

Posted by DjOnslaught on 09 June 2016 - 08:13 AM in Modifications

Lead free when heated to the right temperature and combined with rosin either externally or as rosin core solder melts with 0 issues and flows as good if not better then lead/tin solder.

Rosin is used interchangeably with Flux in my experience

#350313 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 30 December 2015 - 09:59 AM in Modifications

I'm actually considering similiar with a modulus after I finish my current mod project, which is a mega centurion.

Going to be removing locks, AR, fix the Rev plunger tube, mod for elites/stefan clips, add mag size detection, shot counter, possible light up front..... just a few things.

#351123 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 25 January 2016 - 01:44 PM in Modifications

Just a micro lever switch, some pics on the first page.

Ok, just a momentary switch. Did you happen to have a wiring diagram for the entire thing? I don't think I saw one on the front page.

#351114 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 25 January 2016 - 09:37 AM in Modifications

What kinda trigger switch did you utilize for the stryfe trigger counter?

#350063 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 19 December 2015 - 05:27 PM in Modifications

Wow dude, have you considered a different type of display or even doing a "camera" sight which would route a small camera in front to a display in the back? Kinda like that nerf gun with the camera but minus the recording option...

#350320 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 30 December 2015 - 02:46 PM in Modifications

His diagrams are a big help to me. Or will be once I get working on my modulus

#350322 Shot counters for my Stryfe and Rapidstrike

Posted by DjOnslaught on 30 December 2015 - 03:11 PM in Modifications

Never heard of that kinda switch

#357607 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 18 January 2017 - 12:42 PM in General Nerf

<p>

The key rule is that breaking the shield kills the shieldbearer:
It amps up the risk factor in running a shield
It provides a bigger target for the jankier "shield breaker" projectiles
It cuts out bookkeeping and makes rules enforcement easier
Many players don't like throwing their equipment on the ground
People will step on the shield, and we don't want anyone getting lacerated on broken plastic

But does breaking the shield and killing the user make the shield null for the rest of the battle?

My post was saying ok the disc hits your shield it's broken for the rest of the rouND and you can go place it back at your base and grab a full size blaster or continue to carry it and wield a smaller one.

#357568 Shields: Do you love them? Hate them? Ban them? Permit them?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 15 January 2017 - 11:33 AM in General Nerf

I like the rule about exotic ammo killing the shield bearer, though it could also have certain ammo just break the shield negating it for the rest of the round

#355245 Sear Carbine Writeup

Posted by DjOnslaught on 28 July 2016 - 04:47 AM in Homemades

Hey snoop, what did you make the shell of your lower receiver from? Is it polycarbonate sheeting? If so can you provide a template or at least some dimensions?

#350577 Sanding down Shell Question

Posted by DjOnslaught on 07 January 2016 - 12:49 PM in Modifications

Dremel cutting wheel and then the cutting tools mentioned above, the plier method plus sanding drum also works.

Me personally I would use the dremel wheel on the sides then the thinnest dremel cutter you can find, all of that after marking exactly how much needs to be removed to make the component fit.

#350430 Roughcut parts placement

Posted by DjOnslaught on 03 January 2016 - 03:36 PM in General Nerf

The circles go over shafts that help guide the "sled" that pulls back the plungers.

The white part with a spring is a lock, but I'm not sure which one. It's possible that leaving it out will prevent another lock from releasing when it should.

The white piece with a spring looks like possibly a no dryfiring lock, I think your spot on with the other parts though.
My advice is reassemble minus that piece to test, if it doesn't work message me and I'll take my roughcut apart when I get home and tell ya where it goes, unless you can find a picture of a modded one that shows the piece in the modification forum (which may be a good idea)

#360769 Rival Magazine Storage?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 24 June 2017 - 06:05 PM in General Nerf

I'm using a drop-leg pouch like this, which works pretty well. I can fit three 12-ball clips in it, and they stick out enough that I can reload them when not actively being shot at.
https://www.amazon.c...words=leg pouch

I love that one dude. I must get one now lol

#360638 Rival Magazine Storage?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 18 June 2017 - 05:35 PM in General Nerf

I find the 3 fold collapsible condor dump pouch works fantastically for rival mags and I was able to hold 8 in the pouch and 1 in the atlas I was using

#352228 Replacement Rough Cut 2x4 Gears

Posted by DjOnslaught on 16 March 2016 - 06:52 AM in Modifications

if you can figure out the gear information, check mcmaster carr, I know they sell gears.

#350220 Rayven Alternative?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 28 December 2015 - 08:23 AM in General Nerf

I would be hesitant to order this. In the product details under the shipping, the way it's shipped worries me about damage in shipping not to mention all the other risks involved with buying cheap knockoff guns

#350295 Rayven Alternative?

Posted by DjOnslaught on 29 December 2015 - 05:42 PM in General Nerf

You have to sand it because of the nature of the paint, basically your roughing the surface to give the paint particles more places to adhere and thusly give you a more even and better result to the paint, that is if i understand it corectly

#350429 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 03 January 2016 - 03:12 PM in Modifications

No. 11.5k RPM is too slow. You would have to run it at 12+volts to get it spinning fast enough (double the voltage gives double the speed), and then you'd be having the same issue as the RM2s.

I'm not sure what RM2s are "supposed" to be run at, but both the RM2 and this motor need to be overvolted a good bit in order to be useful for nerf. ANd when you overvolt, you shorten motor life.

What if you wired each motor to separate sets of batteries, which would allow them to get higher volts without actually overvolting them? I know given nerf battery compartments run the batteries in parallel which naturally generates lower volts then I'm series, if you used higher voltage batteris it might be doable, especially if you could keep the Rev trigger firing both motors.

#350657 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 10 January 2016 - 04:47 PM in Modifications

You could try another battery, but I don't think it would make much difference in the long run.

#350296 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 29 December 2015 - 05:46 PM in Modifications

I think you might be better off to get a battery and charger combo that wat you know that one works perfectly with the other.

#350424 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 03 January 2016 - 02:42 PM in Modifications

What kinda motor are you actually gonna use? If you use the ones you linked earlier in the post then you need 3 or 4 normal AA batteries, if you run the ones linked above then you could getaway with 2 imr/trustfire batteries and 2 dummies if I'm not mistaken.

#350432 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 03 January 2016 - 03:52 PM in Modifications

I would use those and test with 3 standard AA batteries, if that's not enough try 4 of them. If none of that works then we can go from there. When I say standard AA I mean duracell/energizer etc.

#350660 Raven mod

Posted by DjOnslaught on 10 January 2016 - 06:01 PM in Modifications

I'm not sure what you are aiming for this idea, but let me clarify:

If you put 4 AA batteries in a stock nerf battery tray, the voltages are in series (I'm pretty sure) and therefore add (1.5+1.5+1.5+1.5=6volts). The motors are wired to the battery tray in parallel, so that they each receive the same voltage (6volts).

If you were to instead put in two separate battery trays each with two AA batteries, and then connect each motor to a separate battery tray, they would each receive 3 volts. Because the motors are receiving lower voltage, they would potentially last longer/not be overvolted...but they would also be spinning half as fast.

Now if you were to, say, replace those AAs with IMRs, then each battery tray would start providing 7.4volts to each motor and you'd be back to overvolting and you may burn out crappy motors.

Yes you could control both of those circuits with a single DPDT (double pull double throw) switch.

And yes you can run RM2s on four AA batteries. They may burn out eventually, but they'll last a while.

I was referring to exactly what you said as far as using the higher end batteries. You can always modify the stock try since from what I've seen each battery slot has a contact at each end... if you split it by modifying the terminal string to be split into 2 each, you could use the stook tray.

#354808 Raven Full Auto Mod Help

Posted by DjOnslaught on 05 July 2016 - 11:03 AM in Modifications

What kinda motor are you using? Can you post a picture of the set up?

#354812 Raven Full Auto Mod Help

Posted by DjOnslaught on 05 July 2016 - 01:34 PM in Modifications

Try the vulcan motor, might work. Could also try a weaker return spring.

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