MrPzowned

I was fortunate enough to stumble upon the new BuzzBee Rangemaster, NIB at Goodwill! For two dollars how could I pass it up. I noticed when I arrived home to see that it required to be pumped in order to achieve the advertised 60ft ranges. Right away I noticed that it could achieve said ranges easily. This blaster is worth the full 18$ advertised at Target. Also it accepts and kind of dart,except streamlines.

The shell is very comfortable, and I think aesthetically pleasing. The accessories are detachable, and asides from the faux barrel, actually useful.

So lets crack her open. You will have to attempt to remove the orange cap at the end, I just cracked it open when I opened the whole shell.

It utilizes a unique trigger system and what appears to be a back pressure tank. The tank and bolt are all on piece. The blaster is pumped by sliding the bolt back as you load the gun, you do have to pull it back multiple times though.

This is a pic of the internals with the bolt all the way back

Here is the trigger being pulled with no tank in it. It pulls a lever to push the button on the tank.


The ARs are pretty heavy on this blaster.

Lets get rid of them! But be very careful. DO NOT DRILL THEM OUT! If it is done incorrectly it will permanently ruin your blaster. Use needle nose pliers instead. It is frustrating at first, but it is better.


^ that is a pic of what it looks like without ARs, the pics were crappy so I highlighted some things. The white dot appears to be part of a checkvalve, and the green is just flat plastic.
Also the pump desperately needs to be plugged (not shown.)
With the ARs removed and pump plugged (only pump 4 or 5 times) you will obtain ranges in the high 70s and low 80s (stock darts)
A rebarrel will probably boost it up to 100ft with stefans.
Heres the results of range testing with nerf taggers

Stock: ARs removed and Pump plugged:
55' 76'
61' 78'
62' 83'
58' 80'
61' 79'
57' 82'

A better version of the MP SNAP that I made awhile back. It doesnt take very many materials, or alot of time to make.

Theres alot of room for customization.

Primed

Safe
Write mode commencing

Materials needed
1.5" PVC
1.25" PVC
1" PVC
3/4" PVC
1/2" PVC
Adhesive of choice (I usd Gorilla Glue)
Clothespin
Metal L Bracket or something else that could be a trigger
O-ring (not sure which #) it should fit around 1" PVC snugly
1/2" PVC endcap
1/2" PVC T-joint
Various screws
spring of choice (make sure it fits around 1/2" PVC, I used an ACE# 49 *not pictured)

Tools
Can be achieved by a dremel, a drill, and a hacksaw

Begin with 16.5 inches of 1/5" PVC
and cut a 1.1x6" rectangle aproximatley 5.75 inches away from the front of the blaster

Then drill a hole 2.8 inches on the bottom of the 1.5"PVC on the backside, also make an indentation 2" away from the back

Here comes the plunger/piston assembly

the main part is 8.65" of 1" PVC, put the o-ring towards the front as pictured and I just glued it on (It stayed even when dry firing with no lube)

next cut a .5x.75 hole 1.25" away from the back

now fit 5.5' of 1/2' PVC into to .5" of 3/4" PVC and ut it so that the 3/4' is flush with the end of the 1/2" PVC and fits in flush with the 1" PVC also drill a holw for your choice screw and counterbore it so the screw is flush with the plunger, I just attacked with the drill bit piece of my dremel

Now dremel down the area before the slot so it makes a ramp
Onto the handle

I used 3/4" PVC for the part that you hold, it uses your basic clothespin trigger setup I used a section of 1.5" PVC for the top piece
heres some detail shots


Attach your handle to the back ofthe 1.5" PVC like so

Now we need a bushing at the back of the blaster, you could buy a 1.5" to .5" PVC bushing but I didnt feel like doing that so I used 1.25" with 1' inside, with 3/4"Pvc inside of each other

Make sure its not longer than .75"

Dremel out about .5" of the back of the 1.5"PVC so it will let the 1.25" fit inside snugly (mine wouldnt fit)

Place the homemade bushing in the back (a little stuck out)and drill a hole for the choice size screw on both sides

Make sure that the screws for the bushing dont extend past where the 3/4" PVC is, otherwise it will block the plunger spring guide

Get your T-joint and cut the bottom off


Place it 1.85" away from the back of the plunger which should be inserted into the 1.5" PVC
and drill two hole on both sides of the t-joint

Make sure that the screws that you use for the t-joint have screw heads that extrude to the same thickness of the 1.5' PVC that way the priming handle wont go to far forward or backwards

Put a 1/2" PVC handle on there

heres a homemade bushing I made for the front end of the 1.5" PVC, its 1"PVC wrapped in electrical tape with an O-ring. This will allow me to fit n 1/2' PVC couplers, wyes, and other attachments


Theres a brand new MP SNAP for ya.
Here are the ranges with an ACE #49 spring
92'
96'
91'
93'
93'
94'
95'
96'
94'
97'
95'
So an average of 95'

Britishnerfwanna and I founded a new forum. So far we only have a handfull of members and we would like that number to grow. "Why should I join if I like NHQ just fine?" Some people have preferences, I have an account on NerfHaven, under the same name in fact, that I just don't use because I prefer NHQ. Some people have a preference. Please support and Thank You