MithMorchaint

I picked up a Switch Shot EX-3 tonight and opened it up (http://images.entert...CHNR66755lg.jpg if you don't know what it is). I did a basic spring upgrade with a piece of one I had laying around, as well as a CPVC barrel replacement that also removes the AR. I don't think anyone has posted mods for this gun yet, so I thought I'd throw a writeup here. I apologize for the poor quality of the pictures, my good camera is currently not at college with me.

(Edit: It has come to my attention that somebody else already did a brass barrel replacement on this gun, so that's not a first.)

The gun module:


There are four screws on the other side. Unscrew those and it will pop open, no problem. No glue. Just watch out for the catch's spring, it likes to come out.

The internals. About as simple as they come (I flipped it around from the last picture):


The arrangement is essentially identical to that of the NF.

In addition to the air restrictor, the opening at the barrel-end of the plunger tube is horribly small (this picture is taken from the back end of the tube):


The spring and plunger:


One screw holds the plunger head onto the rod. Unscrew that and you can add a new spring.

With the new spring added:


Now, the barrel replacement and AR removal. The AR is in the middle of several glued-together pieces, one of which is the barrel. I decided to simply cut off the barrel, allowing access to the AR. Once I removed the AR a new barrel could be inserted.

What we're working with:


I cut around the barrel, removing it. This is with the barrel removed but AR still in place. There is a small lip which holds it in.


I shaved around the inside of the opening that is now there until it was large enough for a piece of CPVC to fit in. Incidentally, that also enlarged the hole enough for the AR to come out with a bit of cutting where it is attached to the sides.


I didn't like how small the hole going from the tube to the barrel was, so I similarly enlarge that by shaving around it with a knife. You could also just drill it out.


With that done, I simply hammered the new CPVC barrel in and glued it in place. I should point out that you have to be careful how long you make the barrel, since one which is too long will not allow the module to fit into the gun's frame.


Re-assembled the module.


And popped it into the shell.


Ranges are good, though I have no way to measure them currently. My estimate would be between 50 and 70 feet, but that could be off. Either way, its power is increased significantly by doing these basic mods.

I was originally going to integrate a Maverick into a Longshot in the same style as this (upside down), but I rather like my BBB and decided to do it to that instead.

The idea here is that my BBB fires quite far, but is slow to reload. I added the Mav to supply a faster firing but lower powered alternative.

To my knowledge this hasn't been done before with a BBB, so without anything further, pictures:










The Mav cocks like a shotgun grip, and while it might seem like the trigger is hard to pull or uncomfortable, I have large hands so it isn't. I can imagine it might be awkward for someone with smaller hands though.

I hold it by the barrel to cock the BBB, though I'm probably going to add a handle on the top for that purpose.

The BBB has standard mods done to it; Barrel replacement, new spring, ARs out, and obviously a paintjob.

The Mav also has standard AR removal, as well as the drop-clip mod, seen in one of the pictures.

The one thing you might see here is that the silver part of the BBB's barrel screws onto the black part. This allows me to fire arrows as well, since with the silver part removed the regular arrows still fit on. It also allows me to backload the silver barrel and then screw it on.

Thoughts? I'll post another picture if I add a handle for cocking the BBB.

When I got my first Longshot about, oh, almost a year ago, I put an enormous spring into it. This spring I have not been able to locate in a store again, so I can't give you a part number or anything for it, sadly. Anyway, it is quite powerful. Powerful enough that after being in the Longshot for a while and being used, the metal bar used to cock the Longshot was starting to bend and break. I removed the spring as soon as I noticed this, and that longshot is now fine.

However, the power and range of the Longshot with this spring in it was spectacular, so I wanted to be able to use it again. I bought a second Longshot about a month ago and put this spring in it. Sure enough, after a few days of use, the metal bar was starting to bend. I also found that it was almost impossible to cock the gun in the first place, requiring both hands and being braced against my chest (and I am not a weak person).

I looked through the mods on here for anything that might solve both issues, but to no avail. I decided to come up with my own solution to the problem. First, I would replace the metal cocking bar with a heavier piece of metal. Second, I would create a new cocking mechanism that utilized the mechanical advantage of levers to make cocking easier. This way I could maintain power while increasing the rate of fire.

The result?



I had to build the entire framework out of metal (the silver is steel, the gold is (coated) aluminum) because of the stress being put on it. Basically, there is a handle at the very top of those steel bars which you grab and pull back on, which slides the aluminum bars back, cocking the gun. Then you push it forward again to close the bolt. The aluminum bars are connected to a piece of 1/4" steel rod that goes through the (enlarged) hole in the gun, where the original cocking handle bar went.

Better shot of the handle:



The handle is the wodden bar on the right side of the picture. It is connected to the steel be a bolt that goes through either end of the wood.

Needless to say, this system works very well. I can now hold the gun in one hand and cock it with the other, getting a fairly decent rate of fire for its power. To further take advantage of this, I did the combining-clips mod to have a 13-dart clip.

So, in case this isn't very clear:

Gun at rest (bolt closed):



Handle pulled back (bolt open):




It's not the prettiest mod, but it is functional and does what I set out to do. You might point out that it's a bit large, but it really doesn't add a whole lot of weight to the gun. This is also my "outdoors" longshot, so size is not a major issue. As far as I have been able to find, nobody has done something like this before, so please let me know what you think.

Edit: Forgot to mention, also did typical LS mods - AR removal, clip locking mechanism to allow removal when bolt is closed, etc.

While working on my Rattler two nights ago, I began thinking about this idea. I thought I'd ask if anyone has attempted it, and if so, the results. Also, if anyone has ideas that would improve on my concept, I'd love them. Note: this is not just a theoretical "wouldn't it be cool if..." thread. I'm planning on doing this either tonight or over the weekend, I have all the parts I think I'll need, I just want input first incase I'm missing anything in my plan.

The idea is this : combining the four-shots-in-a-row capability of the Rattler with the power of the Nite-Finder. This would be accomplished by cutting away some of the front of the NF to create space, then putting the rotating mechanism of the Rattler over the front of the plunger tube of the NF.

The rotator works by a peg attached to the handle of the Rattler which fires when pulled back, then rotates the barrel when pushed forward again. If I were to put this over the front of the NF and secure everything in place (PVC and hot glue, most likely), then put some sort of sliding bar on the side of the NF attached to the peg, I should be able to simple pull it back then push it forward again, rotating the barrel in front of the NF's plunger. I could even place a spring behind (rather than in front of) the peg, such that I could simply pull it back and let go (think a bolt), letting the spring push it forwards and rotate the barrel assembly.

A secondary idea, to be done only if the first part works, would be to run a metal bar back from the "bolt" to the cocking handle of the NF, then place some sort of collar around said cocking handle. This way, when I pull the bolt back it cocks the NF by pushing the collar back against the wide end of the cocking handle. When I let go and the bolt slides forward again, the collar could simply slide forward over the straight part of the cocking handle. The only trick would be making a collar strong enough, but I believe I have some scrap steel I could use.

What do people think? Will it work? Will it suck? Not worth the effort?

So, slightly different from the other Titan mods on here. This is a titan that fires micro darts/stefans but loads from a breech rather than couplered barrel or clip. I'm going to go on the assumption that people routinely remove the air restrictors in the Titan, because you need to do that in order to do this. I also plugged the overpressure valve inside with hot glue,s o that will increase performance...look at another tutorial for how to do that.

The pictures are large, so I'm just going to thumbnail-link them here, click on the thumbnails for larger view.



These are the pieces needed, minus the orange thing (was going to use it for something, decided not to). I forgot to take a picture of the step where i attached that grey piece of PVC to the white, but basically all I did was dremel down the white, hammer the grey PVC onto it, and use the dremel to round off the leading edge. I don't have the diameters for the PVC on hand, but I can get people the diameters if requested here.

Anyway, the combined piece of grey and white PVC is going to be the part you see when this is done. The shorter piece of grey PVC laying below it is going to become the sliding breech cover, and the clear plastic tubing is what the dart will go in inside the larger barrel...it'll make sense when you see it.



Next step is wrapping the whole piece of clear plastic tubing (except for about an inch at the end) in 3 layers of duct-tape. This is to take up the space difference between its outside diameter and the inside diameter of the rigid PVC barrel.



Next you force the tape-wrapped tubing down the PVC barrel. I had to use a hammer because of the friction, but that's the idea...nice tight fit.



Now you use a dremel to grind down the orange piece that the Titan's barrel usually screws onto so that the grey pvc fits snugly onto it. Again, needed a hammer to force it on...but it's sure not coming off. I followed up with hot glue around the edge for security, but I'm not worried. It should be noted that because I left the end of the clear tubing flush with the end of the grey "coupler", it has been forced inside the orange barrel where the Titan's air restrictor used to be.



This picture combines two steps. I ground down the inside of the piece of grey PVC to make it fit snugly over the white PVC, but loose enough to slide with some effort. Then I used a red sharpie to mark off the area to cut out for the breech.



Cutting out the slot for the breech.



Now, tricky thing. I hot glued the pieces I cut out back together so they won't fall apart. This makes it so you can actually place them back over hole before sliding back the grey PVC, making a tighter seal on the dart...



...like that. Note: that is the glued piece back in place, before sliding the grey cover over it. You don't HAVE to keep this removable chunk of plastic, but I find that it makes the gun fire better.



And done. You slide the grey piece up the barrel, pull out the cover, slide the dart into the tube, replace the over, slide the breech down, pump, and fire. I'll have ranges tomorrow, it's currently 12:40AM and a bit dark out. The gun currently is firing the original Longshot darts (think they're called Streamlines) as well as micro stefans.

Again, can get exact diameters and lengths of pieces if anybody wants them.