kunkmiester

My experience with digital calipers has been poor. I have a small one I need to return, it holds a zero so poorly, but I needed to do some metric measurements. I plan on getting a metric dial eventually. You can see this when you open and close them repeatedly, and they loose their zero. Even higher end ones do this, I've yet to see one that didn't, but I've limited exposure and probably haven't seen anyone spend enough money for a really reliable one.

STL files are the ones generally used by 3D printers. Also, most CAD programs don't do a whole lost with them without reprocessing them into their native format.

Another thing to note, but in passing, is that Nerf stuff is made overseas, and made to metric specs, 12mm instead of .5 inches, for example. The two don't match exactly, so if you're measuring in inches, you'll get odd numbers. If you try to round them, you'll be off by varying margins. Something to keep in mind, nice thing about Solidworks is it'll convert the two, so you can put a metric into an inch model and get the right dimension.

Thanks for the encouragement. Still lots of paperwork to sort, but it's progressing slowly.

Having done just a bit of nerf warring, I was looking at the deficiencies of the guns I've used, and had a few ideas on more reliable mechanisms, and a few that would be just plain fun, if overkill, like a minigun.

I was looking at basically starting a small business on building a higher end brand of guns than Nerf, with a design intent towards modding and more power. Thing is, I'd need to get a computer that can do modeling set up, and get the 3D printer and all that jazz. I'm working on a kickstarter, but that also requires some networking, and I've not really been on long, and I'm not in a big city where I can rub elbows with a lot of guys into this stuff.

Don't get the yellow Tommy, it's semi; the full auto one(green) is about the same price. so you might as well get your money's worth.

I found mine had plenty of range(probably at least 20 feet, especially with over shooting), as well as the smaller 12 shot semi one. It does use wheels, I can take it apart again if you want pics. I'm new enough to this stuff I can't argue quality. Nerf does seem a bit better built. Also, the muzzle is basically just a hole big enough to not jam. The darts come straight out of the wheels, which means you have more of a shotgun style thing going on.

For the manuals, you have to pull the trigger all the way back, and let it all the way forward. A rod pushes the dart into the wheels, and if it doesn't go far enough it jams. The FA one lacks some in the firing rate department.

I have plans to mod the smaller 12 shot into a Schlock Mercenary plasma cannon. Mostly because I'll be able to actually shoot, and other arrangements make it reasonable. The motors also provide a reasonable "ominous hum" per the comic.

I've yet to try the shell guns, sounds like I shouldn't get my hopes up too high. The big thing I was looking at with them was practice--They're in many ways similar to real guns, up to and including the need to police your "brass." Might be good for some gun handling practice for someone not yet ready for a real one. Really, the brass isn't as much of an advantage because it leaves the tip of the dart exposed and vulnerable. If Nerf developed a variant of the tubes used in the Vulcan, it'd be far better. Their clip system probably provides most of the advantages a shell would provide though, without as much hassle.

Sorry, first post and I'm running train of thought. It seemed relevant, hope it's not necromancy yet.