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ricochet

Member Since 03 Jan 2010
Offline Last Active May 24 2020 01:48 PM

Topics I've Started

Nerf Barrel Rifling

15 April 2011 - 05:52 PM

Introduction:
A week or so back my nerf fabrication lifeline, my dremel, ceased to function properly. I got bit by the building/modification bug and had to find something to do that didn't require use of a dremel. So, after pondering some, I thought of revisiting the concept of rifling a nerf barrel. Is it even worth it and practical? Read through the following information to discover the answer. Just to mention, I have seen other threads similar to this, all with some flames. I am posting this in order to share my "experiment" and you can be the judge. On to the photos and stats:

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You may be asking, "How was this fabricated?", and let me say it is rather simple. The video I used to guide the construction of the rifling is THIS video. I used the method of wrapping three paper strips (only 2 sheets thick) around a rod that is slightly smaller that 1/2" cpvc using the method in the video link. I then added super glue along each strip, quickly slid over the cpvc, and let it dry. Once it dried, I cut off the excess portions of the strips and slid off the cpvc. There you have it, the simple method of rifling some cpvc for your nerf gun, but is it worth it?

Testing:
The rotation applied to the dart is about 1 rotation every 5 inches traveled. I tested the rifled barrel in a nitefinder with a [k26] spring replacement, coupler mod, and 4" cpvc barrel. Nothing too big, just enough to use for testing. I tried the barrel with 2 different darts, one weighted (slug dart) and one not (slug dart without the washer). During testing with a weighted dart, it achieved a small distance increase of about 5-10 feet more than the smooth bore cpvc barrel of equal size. I also fired the dart (80-87 degrees)upward in order to observe whether a spin was actually applied to the dart. This can be observed using this method because of the fact that the dart slows down as it gets higher, thus showing the spin. It also returned to the ground with a spin as well. To verify the spin I then tested the barrel with an unweighted dart. Unweighted darts go haywire and fly in unpredicatable paths when fired from normal smooth barrels, so it was a good area to test. Upon firing with the rifled barrel, the shot went directly forward. Though it did tumble at the end of its flight due to the lack of weight, it was the opposite of the smooth bore. The normal smooth bore cpvc barrel made the dart fly in a sporadic manner, with no predictability. If you would like to see a demo of the test with the unweighted dart, the link is THIS. For all of the tests performed, only one dart was used (one unweighted, one weighted) to eliminate a source of error. What are your thoughts on this? Your feedback is appreciated!

Note: The link about how to rifle paper barrels is from a hobbyist who makes replica rifles out of paper. I am not encouraging the use of pyrotechnics or replication or reel steel rifles in nerf. Plus, fire and paper probably aren't that fantastic of an idea.

-Ricochet

Homemade Magstrike Piston And Write-up

30 December 2010 - 05:36 PM

Introduction:
I have always been wanting to build a magstrike piston from the ground up, but also modify the design a little to allow for increased volume and capability of being integrated into a breech system to work with clips or magazines like in the stampede, longshot, etc. So, I got to work and came up with this:
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It is about 11 inches from end to end including the brass breech, so it is much larger than the magstrike version. The increased size is for increased volume and to accommodate a 2 inch breech. The cylinder is 1 inch cpvc.

Internal Pictures:
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These two photos show the front portion of the piston in the retracted and forward positions that occur during firing.

Front Seal:

This was the most frustrating component of the piston. I tried 6 different front seals, and this is the most reliable. It consists of a rubber washer glued to a piece of .5 inch pvc. The ID of the washer is 3/8 inch. The pictures below show the concept of the seal since the actual one is glued in the cylinder of the piston.
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Sealed

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Seal broken

Video of the piston when pressurized:
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I tested the piston with a 14 inch brass barrel and got ranges of 80-90 feet flat. I will be making a second piston with a small improvement soon, so keep your eyes pealed. Once the second one is up, I will hopefully work on a write up. Feedback is welcome and encouraged.

Edit: The piston used 1/2 inch nylon tube, 3/8 inch nylon tube, 1/4 inch nylon rod, two different springs, 17/32 inch and 9/16 inch brass, and a 7/8 inch U-Cup seal, all of which were purchased from McMaster. The rubber washer, pvc, cpvc, and metal washer can be purchased at your local hardware store.

Stampede: Leaked

17 July 2010 - 10:30 PM

I came across this online yesterday and wanted to share it. Its just a quick look at the upcoming stampede, THIS IS NOT INTENDED TO BE A SPECULATION THREAD!!! So please keep it that way. I know some may not want new things posted if it isnt "official", but this seemed to be teetering "on the fence", but if need be, admins are free to do whatever they want to this post.

Link

Slide Action, Magazine Fed Side Arm: Sas-5

03 July 2010 - 12:05 PM

After 4 months of designing, building, and re-designing components of the SAS-5, it is finally finished. First off, the name stands for slide action system, and the number 5 is its magazine capacity: nothing too fancy. The design was to incorporate 2 key things: Rate of fire and compact size. The achieved distances are 45-50 feet flat, 65-70 angled, so it isnt obviously going to be used from longer distances.
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SAS-5 with magazine removed
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Slide pulled back. Notice there is no protruding plunger components like in boltsniper's bs-9 (which,yes, was the inspiration for the SAS-5).
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And here would be a look down the sights, sorry not the best picture quality
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THis is the SAS-5 fully disassembled making it much easier to maintain than the LDR.
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Here is the hole for loading darts, the slit on the left side of the SAS-5 seen in above pictures is for pulling down the follower to perform this method, which is only 1 loading method. The other is removing the magazine and stacking the darts, then putting it back in the magazine well (like shown in the first picture).

Trigger Mech Detail
The following pictures are a look at the sear and the rod that pulls the sear in each stage of firing.
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This is it in the locked position that will catch the plunger (picture 1: pull rod picture 2: sear/catch)
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This is the sear when the trigger is pulled, the pull rod goes forward and the sear lowers, releasing the plunger.
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And here is the plunger, pretty self explanitory

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Bolt/Breech Closed
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Bolt/Breech open
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Here is the magazine, if you look into the slits you can see the wave type of spring, which eliminated the need for any type of a spring guide. I made this spring myself, which is a tedious process.
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Here is a picture of the springs loaded on the guide, again self explanitory

I hope you guys will like this, I don't think I left anything out but if I did feel free to ask any questions. There will be a video coming soon as well.

Note: The paint job this time around shouldn't be testing the legal limits, so I hope you appreciate it. The scheme was taken from another persons paint job online, but I don't remember who. Either way, I liked the scheme and it fit the SAS-5 well.

-Ricochet

Magazine Fed Breech Loading Bolt Problem

24 April 2010 - 03:38 PM

Hey guys, I have been working on a new gun the past few months that is breech loading, yet feeds darts via a magazine. My current problem is the breech will tear up darts below the one being loaded. I have a video showing the problem, I am mimicking the spring of the magazine with my thumb. I was only using blank stefans for all the tests, maybe thats the problem? Sorry for relatively unclear video footage, I tried to make it the best I could. All and any suggestions and/or solutions are much appreciated.

Bolt Failure