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Spud Spudoni

Member Since 07 Apr 2009
Offline Last Active Aug 21 2019 10:22 PM

Topics I've Started

Nerf Variance

08 August 2019 - 10:02 PM

Forward: This was a project I designed during my last semester at school. It was an open studio project, so I chose to make a mock line for the Nerf brand. It essentially exists as a line to bring the casual nerfers and makers of the community together. This CAD model has taken me more than 150 hours of work to get to this point. Definitely been my biggest project I've taken on yet! Here's some of the details.

 

Edit: Now with less crunchy images!

 

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Here's an animation of the transition between the Standard Kit to the Bullpup kit.

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=920uCaPHMXU

 

The Kit utilizes internals stolen from a Retaliator/ Recon Mk II outside of a new plunger rod, trigger, and mag release. I utilized brass threaded inserts and thumb screws to attach different sections of the blaster together. These can be purchased at McMaster-Carr

 

Brass Heat-Set Inserts For Plastic, 6-32 Thread Size, 0.150" Installed Length : 94459A280

Knurled-Head Thumb Screw
Slotted, Stainless Steel Low-Profile, 6-32 Thread, 1/2" Long : 91746A644

 

The parts themselves are fastened with nuts that were superglued into place and bolts that were cut down in most places to fit flush:

 

Passivated 18-8 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Screw, 4-40 Thread Size, 2-1/4" Long : 91772A517

Low-Strength Steel Hex Nut Zinc-Plated, 4-40 Thread Size : 90480A005

 

 

Finally, the parts themselves are available at Thingiverse for download/printing. Would love get feedback/see what people do with this project, whether it's via printing it themselves or remixing it. I've got the STEP file on Thingiverse.

https://www.thingive...m/thing:3798762

 


IPAC: Inverse Pump Action Carbine

31 August 2017 - 12:59 AM

FORWARD: The goal of this design was to create a prototype blaster and treat it as a product for sale in stores utilizing the design method for use in my design portfolio. With the help of research from the community here, not only did I succeed in building this prototype blaster, but I have found many innovations through this process that I hope can benefit in the community. Those who helped directly via email, or by filling out my survey, thank you. Also a huge thank you to Captain_Slug for the recent revolution of homemade design that greatly impacted this process. Now, onto the writeup.

 

 

Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6303_602.JPG   46.82KB   59 downloads
 

Going back as far as I can remember with homemade blasters, a large majority of people’s work has been purely functional; nerf blasters were too weak and the parts weren’t durable enough for our needs, so hardware store parts and piping made a proper substitute. Due to the ready-made nature of using pre-made parts, form and ergonomics weren’t a consideration until after functionality was developed. Aesthetics and performance were, and continued to be two separate focuses in homemade blaster design, which limited how far this process could be taken. Over the past few years, more focus has been put into ergonomics, but the form of homemades still has been very lacking. Not until the Caliburn and the increasing use of 3D printing has thoughtful consideration of form been established. We still have more work to go, but I hope this blaster becomes a trailblazer in functionality, and form giving in homemades with the hope it inspires and proves that you don’t need a 3D printer to make a blaster with thoughtful form-giving.

 

Based on the research drawn from the community’s engagement, I have found solutions to popular problems of large majority, as well as adding some finer nuances to homemade blasters:

 

  • Form over function-give it a proper look. I ended up taking an aggressive approach to its form

  • Availability to break down for transportation/storage

  • Reduce the overall size, and have the barrel mounted within the overall body length of the blaster for storage and maneuverability in the field

  • Better ergonomics and safety for the user (trigger guard and in the future, trigger lock)

  • Functionally- needed to have a smooth operation, performance and more (integrated ‘slam-fire’)

  • Ease of break down for maintenance

  • Utilize similar parts as other popular writeups (Captain_Slug’s work) to allow interchangeability of parts within community builds

  • Durability

 

TOOLS NEEDED:

  • Phillips Screwdriver

  • Allen Wrench

  • Drill with 5/32”, 7/64”, 9/16”, ⅝”, ½” Drill bits

  • Dremel with sanding drum and metal cutting disk

  • File/sandpaper

  • PVC Cement

  • Plumber's Goop

  • Tapping set and a 6-32 (7/64”) tapping bit

  • Masking Tape

  • Clear Scotch Tape

  • Printer/printer paper

  • Wire Cutter with 6-32 screw cutting holes

  • Scissors

  • Exacto knife/box cutter

 

PARTS LIST:

 

                Part                    McMaster Part Number                        Optional

 

½” Threaded Standoffs (3)        91125A445

 

 

Catch Spring                             96565K36

 

 

¼” Allen Screws                        94355A144

 

 

½” Allen Screws                        94355A148

 

 

Extension Spring                       9654K973

 

 

½” Lock Screws                         90403A148

 

 

1 ½” Lock Screws                      90403A157

 

 

[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[k26]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]               9637K26

Spring    

 

 

Skirt Seal                                   9562K46

 

 

⅛” Aluminum Bar                       4490T171

 

 

½” Thumb Screws (4)                93585A015                                    Optional

 

 

⅝” Aluminum Pipe (2ft)              1658T11

 

 

½” Black Delrin                           8576K15

 

 

Rubber Gasket                           90133A420

 

 

¼” CPVC sheet (6x6)                 8748K118

 

 

½” Aluminum Hex                       91780A127

Standoffs (9) 

 

 

2” Aluminum Hex                        91780A339

Standoffs (3)

 

 

1 ½” Aluminum Hex                     91780A337

Standoffs(9)

 

 

1 ¼” Clear PVC (4ft)                     49035K21                                      Optional

 

 

¼” Polycarbonate sheet                8574K43

12x24”

 

 

¼” Delrin sheet 12x24”                  8573K35                                  Optional only if you plan to laser cut parts. Don’t buy polycarb if so

 

 

Aluminum Unthreaded                  92510A445

Spacer (1)

 

 

⅛” Acrylic Sheet                             8560K275

 

 

1” PVC (2ft)

 

   

1 to ½” Reducing Bushing

 

   

½” CPVC (2ft)

 

   

½” CPVC Elbow (2)

 

   

½” PVC (1ft)

   

 

 

Now that the formalities are out of the way, now let’s get to the fun stuff.

This blaster has a lot of measurements and parts that need to be accurate in order to work correctly. To make things a little easier, I made a PDF file of all of the templates I created for the blaster which are available HERE: Attached File  PRINT_IPAC_Templates.pdf   906KB   201 downloads. I have also created a vector file for the templates not for PVC that can be laser cut if you have one available to you which can email me or PM me if you'd want that file. NOTE- if you choose to laser cut the templates you CANNOT use polycarbonate. Use the Delrin listed in the parts list. Otherwise, use polycarbonate. It’s cheaper.

 

Part 1: Templates


PVC:

Start by cutting out the PVC templates, taping the templates that are listed as parts of a bigger template size together, and wrapping them around the suggested PVC with tape. Cut along the seams with your dremel, bandsaw, or scroll saw and use the proper drill bits where they are listed. I’d recommend drilling pilot holes with a much smaller drill bit first, or use a nail and hammer on the center of each hole and lightly tap a small indention into the PVC so the drill bit has a point to grip into.

 

Attached File  PVC_Wraps.JPG   60.71KB   56 downloads

 

Attached File  PVC_Channels_cut.JPG   38.83KB   59 downloads

 

Cut the two small pieces out of the 1 ¼” PVC Wrap [3] after the holes are drilled and set them aside for later. They are used to create a spacer between the 1” PVC and the pump grip. I used a mitre saw for the 45 degree cuts at the ends of of the 1” and 1 ¼” PVC templates and a dremel on the channels for the pump grip. Again, use whatever is available to you.

 

Attached File  PVC_3_wrap_pt1.JPG   49.08KB   61 downloads

 

Attached File  PVC_3_wrap_pt2.JPG   51.7KB   63 downloads

 

Take your 1” to ½” reducer bushing and put a few wraps of tape around it until it fits snug in the end of your 1 1/4 “ main body. Push it in until it’s flush with the main body, and drill two 7/64” holes through the holes already provided by your 1 ¼” PVC main body. Use Plumber’s Goop and apply it fully around the reducing bushing, and push it in. Wipe away any excess glue, and use your ¼” set screws to mechanically fasten it in place.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_17.JPG   49.89KB   62 downloads

 

Take your two ½” CPVC elbows, and cut a section of CPVC to connect them together. It is necessary that the two elbows touch when together. When the you get the two elbows properly aligned, draw a line in sharpie to use for reference after glue is applied so you know they will be straight. Use PVC cement to make sure they stay together.

 

Next, cut a section of Sch 40 ½” PVC that will sit flush in your reducing bushing. Cut a length of ½” CPVC with a enough extra length for one of the elbows to attach to. Hammer that piece of CPVC into the PVC. Test fit your elbow. If it sticks out too much, trim the length of the exposed CPVC until the PVC and CPVC elbow touch. PVC cement the CPVC to the CPVC elbow, and push the entire assembly into your reducing bushing to test fit it. If all is correct, remove it for application later in the build.

 
Attached File  1_2_PVC_beveled.JPG   33.01KB   60 downloads
 
Attached File  1_2_PVC_beveled_2.JPG   33.9KB   59 downloads
 
Attached File  1_2_PVC_beveled_3.JPG   32.33KB   58 downloads
 
Attached File  1_2_PVC_beveled_4.JPG   34.5KB   60 downloads
 

CUTTING FLAT PLASTICS:

Next, use a glue stick to glue the other flat templates on your choice of Delrin or polycarbonate and drill out the holes where suggested on a drill press. Go slow with this as to not rip the template. On some of the bigger holes (⅝” and 9/16”) it might be a good idea to use an exacto knife and cut out that circle. That way if the bit does tear up the template, it’ll only tear the part of the paper template you plan to cut away anyway.


Also remember to cut the lower body cover from the ⅛” thick acrylic.

 

Attached File  Lowerbody_cover.JPG   41.53KB   63 downloads

 

Attached File  Lowerbody_mount_2.JPG   33.56KB   58 downloads

 

NOTE: do not cut out parts labeled “plungerhead3” and catch side at this point. They will be discussed later. Then cut out each template with your choice of cutting implement. Scroll saw and laser cutter obviously work best but a dremel and sand drum will work just fine too.

 

Attached File  Parts_cutout.JPG   55.82KB   62 downloads

 

Once cut, this is a good time to file and sand the plastic smooth and bevel the outside of each handle, pump grip, and stock template.

 
Attached File  Handle_Beveled.JPG   38.6KB   56 downloads
 

The front, oval shaped mount will need to have the back half filed or sanded down to fit into the PVC main body at the proper angle.

 

Attached File  Front_mount_beveled.JPG   30.24KB   65 downloads

 

*For the catch piece, do not cut out the template labeled “catch side” in plastic. That is meant to be glued to the side of the catch lower once cut out and drilled through where the center line is labeled.

Attached File  Catch_lower_1.JPG   50.71KB   61 downloads

Attached File  Catch_lower_2.JPG   91.99KB   60 downloads

 

Once this is done, sand down the bottom of the catch lower where the catch side suggests in its shape.

 

Attached File  Catch_lower_3.JPG   81.46KB   56 downloads

 

Attached File  Catch_Spring_1.JPG   50.92KB   60 downloads

 

Take your 1” PVC Shuttle from before, and drill a ¼” hole on the inside wall opposite of the ½ rectangular hole you should have already cut. This should be drilled in the same hole the 7/64” hole was already drilled, shown on the PVC wrap template. NOTE: Only drill this ¼” hole half way through the PVC:

 

Attached File  Catch_Spring_2.JPG   37.97KB   46 downloads

 

Attached File  Catch_Spring_3.JPG   43.92KB   65 downloadsAttached File  Catch_Spring_4.JPG   32.3KB   59 downloads

 

Put a ¼” allen screw at the top of your catch piece

 
Attached File  Catch_Spring_5.JPG   31.57KB   58 downloads
 

Cut about a ½” of the K36 spring off to be used as the catch spring. The ¼” hole and the allen screw on the catch will work in tandem to make sure the spring stays in place later. Leave these to the side for finishing later.


**For the Plunger Head 3 piece, also do not cut this out of your polycarbonate or delrin. This is meant to be cut out of the sheet of CPVC listed above. Once cut out, secure the wiffle tube cut from 1” PVC to one side of this piece with your PVC cement. Make sure you score the edges before hand.

Attached File  Wiffle_tube_2.JPG   30.87KB   58 downloads

 

Attached File  Wiffle_tube_1.JPG   43.45KB   59 downloads

 

Attached File  Wiffle_tube_5.JPG   47.67KB   60 downloads

 

At this point, drill through your plastic at its center where the lines are suggested. I took a fine point sharpie and brought the lines over from the template, then made a center line shown below:

 

Attached File  templates_over_parts_pt2.JPG   41.71KB   58 downloads

 

All holes must be made using a 7/64” drill bit unless told otherwise. I made a little jig for my drill press to make sure my holes were straight. Its just a piece of wood board with a sliver of wood screwed into the middle of it, and another free moving sliver of wood to go on the other side, held tight by a mechanical vice. Might be a good idea to make something similar.

 
Attached File  Vice.JPG   61.77KB   59 downloads
 

Once all of the many holes in your plastic is drilled, use your tapping kit and cut threads in all of the 7/64” holes.


Now to cut and drill things without templates :(

Don’t worry, it’s not too much work.


PLUNGER ROD:

The plunger rod in total is 9 1/4 “ long, with two sections of ½” diameter Delrin rod at a length of 7 ½” and ½” respectively. Both sides of the 7 ½” section of delrin needs at least a ¾” deep hole with your 7/64” drill bit in the center of each end of the rod. The ½” section needs to be drilled the full way through. I cut a 9” section of delrin rod and drilled a ¾” long hole in one side and a 1 ¼” long hole on the other and cut a half inch segment off of that end of side with the deeper hole and trimmed down the excess until I had two sections of delrin at the proper size. Make sure to take your blade kerf into consideration when doing this It’s probably best to keep the delrin a little longer than needed and trim anything down after this process.

 

Attached File  Plunger_Rod.JPG   33.31KB   55 downloads

 

Attached File  Plunger_Rod_Hole_drilled.JPG   34.96KB   51 downloads

 

Attached File  Plunger_Rod_Hole_drilled_2.JPG   36.32KB   57 downloads

 

 

Tap the holes you drilled, and put the two segments of delrin onto a 1 ½” length screw with the unthreaded aluminum spacer in between. Take a file or sanding drum to the end of the smaller section of delrin rod and bevel that edge. This will be how our plunger enters the catch.

 

Attached File  Plungerrod_beveled.JPG   27.46KB   59 downloads

 

Take the Plungerhead one piece and score one side of it using sandpaper. Take the thick rubber gasket listed above, and super glue it to the surface.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_18.JPG   45.45KB   57 downloads

 

On the other side, put the plungerhead 1, plungerhead 2 (with a skirt seal around it), plungerhead 3 (with wiffle tube attached) and the other end of the delrin rod together with the 1 ½” screw. It should look like this:

 

Attached File  Putting_together_19.JPG   35.83KB   55 downloads

 

The plunger is done for now, and set it to the side.

 

ALUMINUM BAR:

This part is to connect the catch lifter and trigger together. Start by cutting the aluminum bar to 10 ¼”.

 

On the trigger side, drill 7/64” holes, 3/16” and ½” from the end of the aluminum. On the catch lifter side, drill 7/64” holes, ¼” and ½” from the end of the aluminum. Again, it’s best you make a pilot hole or make an indention with a nail before drilling. Tap these holes and use your ¼” screws to attach this to your trigger and catch lifter. Make sure it’s screwed into the same side of both parts. It should look like this:

 

Attached File  Aluminum Bar.JPG   66.08KB   54 downloads

 

Commentary:

This will be how the slam fire on the blaster is engaged. The catch itself moves freely from the catch lifter, allowing the trigger to be pulled and the catch lifter engaged while the blaster is being primed. As long as you keep the trigger compressed while you are moving the catch to its standard position, it will run into the catch lifter, releasing the spring when its motion is complete. This was the biggest innovation of the blaster and took a large majority of time to plan out correctly. It needs a lot more work, but this is a good step in the direction of slam fire homemades and creating blasters with a much smaller profile than ever before.

 

ALUMINUM TUBE:

Cut a section of the ⅝” diameter aluminum to 3” with your dremel or proper metal cutting disk on your mitre saw, or on your bandsaw.

 
Attached File  Aluminum_tube_1.JPG   40.91KB   59 downloads
 
Attached File  Aluminum_tube_2.JPG   32.22KB   55 downloads\\
 

Make sure to bevel the edges with a file, then sandpaper. Watch your digits, this can be very sharp after it’s cut!

 

Attached File  Aluminum_tube_3.JPG   24.19KB   54 downloads

 

Attached File  Aluminum_tube_4.JPG   29.43KB   54 downloads

 

Once completed, hammer this into your spring rest piece. This will help guide your plunger rod into the catch area.

 
Attached File  Aluminum_tube_5.JPG   26.47KB   56 downloads
 
Attached File  Aluminum_tube_6.JPG   26.37KB   53 downloads
 

PUTTING IT TOGETHER:

All that’s left to do at this point is put the pieces together in the right places. I figure pictures are easier to follow than text for this part, so here's a ton of pictures showing how everything is put together properly. Make sure that the bottom of the pump grip and all parts attached inside the 1” PVC utilize Allen Screws at ¼” length, while the catch upper and lower and the main body to lower body mount are connected together with an Allen Screw at ½” length. If you choose to purchase them, four thumb screws are meant to connect the stock 1 to the stock 2 for ease of removal. Unless noted otherwise, all other parts are secured with your ¼” screws.



Put the blaster together in the order the pictures show:

 

Attached File  Putting_together_3.JPG   37.08KB   57 downloads

 

Take note that three of the ports behind the trigger use the round stainless steel standoffs.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_1.JPG   34.86KB   59 downloads

 

Attached File  Putting_together_2.JPG   48.95KB   56 downloads

 

Use your ¼” Allen screws to secure the trigger and catch lifter to the aluminum rod.

 

NOTE: I moved the extension spring to the top of the piece instead of on the side as the screw port would suggest. This HAS to be done due to lack of room in the lower body. I like this much better anyway.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_4.JPG   39.54KB   59 downloads

 

Secure the upper and lower body mount using ½” allen screws. Screw in the middle one until it is flush with the top of the template. We will use this later to screw into the upper body.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_5.JPG   33.47KB   59 downloads

 

Use the ¼” Allen screws to screw in the first catch plate.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_6.JPG   32.44KB   56 downloads

 

Attached File  Putting_together_7.JPG   42.53KB   57 downloads

 

Attached File  Putting_together_8.JPG   39.01KB   56 downloads

 

Attached File  Putting_together_9.JPG   42.01KB   54 downloads

 

Put the catch spring into the channel drilled for it earlier. To put the catch in place, carefully guide it in on its back with the allen screw side entering first. When it’s hovering over the spring, start to turn it on its side, placing it right on top of the spring as shown in the picrues above.

 
Attached File  Putting_together_10.JPG   43.88KB   59 downloads
 
Screw the other catch plate in place.
 
Attached File  Putting_together_11.JPG   33.09KB   60 downloads
 
Attached File  Putting_together_12.JPG   36.79KB   58 downloads
 

Test the catch by screwing the catch lower in place using a ½” allen screw. I guided the plunger rod into the catch area as a point to press against as I screwed to catch lower in place. Remove it when secured, and depress the catch. It should a smooth and snappy motion. When satisfied, unscrew the catch lower for later.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_13.JPG   36.82KB   58 downloads

 

Screw the spring guide in place on the other side with ¼” allen screws.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_14.JPG   63.47KB   59 downloads

 

Time to screw the two sides of the lower body together. Notice how the extension spring is secured to the screw port shown.

 
Attached File  Putting_together_15.JPG   49.98KB   62 downloads
 

Check the trigger mechanism at this point. It shouldn’t snag anything. Should also be smooth and snappy.

 
Attached File  Putting_together_20.JPG   36.84KB   54 downloads
 

Next secure the pistol mount with ½” Allen screws.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_21.JPG   69.08KB   54 downloads

 

Slide the upper body through this mount. Then from the front, slide in your plunger rod, spring, and catch shuttle in that order.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_22.JPG   94.61KB   52 downloads

 

Make sure to use Lithium grease or silicon grease before putting the plunger into the main body. Also, make sure it’s going the right way.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_24.JPG   39.34KB   55 downloads

 

Align the upper body properly, and line up the hole that corresponds with the lowerbody/upper body mount. Take your allen wrench and screw the pieces together.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_25.JPG   50.35KB   57 downloads

 

Now you can re-attach the catch lower to the catch upper. I again used something to hold the catch upper in place, and screwed the catch lower to it. I had to move the aluminum bar out of the lower body to do this.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_30.JPG   72.3KB   55 downloads

 

Take the lower body cover from earlier and secure it. Not only does it cover the bottom of the blaster, but it is crucial for the catch lifter to use its surface to press against and allow the strong catch spring on the catch to be depressed.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_28.JPG   88.3KB   49 downloads

 

Put the pump grip together.

 
Attached File  Putting_together_26.JPG   38.6KB   57 downloads
 

Cut down four 1 ½” screws for use on the pump grip.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_27.JPG   45.71KB   56 downloads

 

Put the pump grip spacers in place on the catch shuttle, and secure the pump grip to them.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_31.JPG   77.2KB   55 downloads

 

Finish it off by attaching the front mount to the front of the plaster.

 

At this point, attach the barrel section to your bushing. Put a CPVC barrel into the exposed CPVC elbow and align it into the front barrel mount.

 

STOCK:

 

I'll have to add more pictures later, but it is really easy to assemble. Put a 1/2" hex standoff on the two screws sticking out of the back of the pistol grip.

 

Attached File  Putting_together_32.JPG   54.55KB   62 downloads

 

Secure the bottom of stock one to that point with another screw. For the upper screw port, remove the screw in the upper body securing the reducing bushing, and thread the screw through the port in the stock 1, and then back into the main body. A 1/2" screw may be too short, so cut down two 1 1/2" screws to work here. You may notice that the stock 1 doesn't sit flush on the main body. Put 4 #6 washers in between to make up that space. Then use the 2" hex standoffs to connect the two sides of stock 1 in all of the screw ports except for the two 7/64" holes in the back.

 

Separately, take the two sides of stock 2 and attach them together with the 1 1/2" hex standoffs in every screw port but the two 7/64" holes in the front.

 

The stock 2 should slide into stock 1. You can use 4, 1/2" set screws or optionally the 4 thumb screws to secure them together.

 

 

Attached File  Hero_Shot_8.JPG   42.19KB   60 downloads

 

At this point, the blaster is finished. Test the trigger pull, and if it successfully lifts the catch. If all works like it's supposed to, when the blaster is primed, and the pump grip is pushed forward, it should fire. Slam fire should also work at this point too.

 

You can also attach a hopper at this point. You’ll notice that the pistol to main body mount doubles as a support for a PVC wye if it is attached.

 

TAKEAWAYS:

 

I’ve put a lot of work on the form of the blaster, and spent a lot of time working on the ins and outs of the whole of this project. But there are still some things that need work. Due to the time constraints of getting my portfolio done and making this writeup in time for the blaster competition, there are a few things I still have to improve: Like said before, I plan to work in a trigger lock, as well as adding a way to deprime the blaster without firing it. Because the slam-fire system I have set in place at this time, the catch can only be released at the end of its motion, meaning you either have to fire the blaster off or cover your finger over the barrel to safely deprime the compressed spring. In the future, I will work on that and look into 3D printing certain parts to improve its ergonomics and form. But for now, I am very happy with it, and I hope those who choose to build this are to and make their own customizations to the design. I had to get it out to make the blaster contest deadline, otherwise, I would have fine tuned a lot of things. Trust me, this thing works, it's just not up to my build standards. I will continue to update this thread with changes I inevitably make.

 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6308_603.JPG   40.42KB   32 downloads
 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6313_605.JPG   53.08KB   32 downloads
 
Close up shot on the barrel mount:
 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6310_604.JPG   35.02KB   32 downloads
 
View looking through the front sight:
 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6319_606.JPG   35.35KB   33 downloads
 
Displaying the removable stock and hopper, which was a main focus on making the blaster compact for storage/transport:
 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6327_607.JPG   52.23KB   30 downloads
 
From Sketch Concept:
 
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To Working Prototype:
 
Attached File  IPAC_Photoshoot_2IMG_6330_608.JPG   50.69KB   30 downloads
 

 

 

 

 


Homemade Blaster Survey

30 July 2017 - 11:07 PM

            *IF THE POLL ABOVE IS NOT SHOWING UP, PLEASE FILL OUT THE SHORT SURVEY REDIRECTED HERE. Thanks*

 

 

           As an industrial design student, I've been working on my portfolio for companies lately. I've been trying to get some extracurricular projects in there, so I've been trying to develop a homemade blaster design for the past few months to submit. I've got my design nearly thought through, and will release it to the community at some point soon. The work on this project as a whole still needs a lot of work, which includes background research to my design that was created to address the wants and needs of the community out of homemades that I have noticed over the past few years. None of my research is concrete however, so for those who use homemades, if y'all could complete the quick survey, I have attached, that would help me tremendously with the background work I have to do. 

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

EDIT: If there is anything you wish to add or think homemades could grow into/need work in, feel free to reply below. Your perspective is greatly appreciated.


Broken Tapping Bit Help

02 January 2015 - 01:50 PM

Okay, so I need a little help approaching a problem:

I am working on a homemade with a Rainbow style catch. I had the catch in 1 1/4 PVC, and made my first drill into both the PVC and the polycarbonate to add my first screw. I began to tap the hole when the bit began to lock, and the turning device began to slip on the bit, as it was a pretty basic variant. I could not get it to grip the bit in order to twist it free, so I tried using pliers to help turn it free. As I tried to do so, the bit snapped inside of the PVC and polycarbonate. My problem is, how do I approach removing a broken taping bit that is inside PVC and polycarbonate?

Thanks,
Spud


Spud's Internal PVC Tee Catch Design

21 August 2011 - 04:40 PM

Alright, now to start off, I would like to thank Inferno for his very detailed pump action snap with tee coupler catch design, and Setro for his americanized coupler catch design. Also, Sgnerf for the original design.

Flaws in the original design:

-Limited to a vertical peice of PVC as your handle.
-Unsigtly tee jutting out of your blaster
-Parts of a shotgunned version would be seperated


In this design, I fix all of these problems.

Here is some of my original sketches for the design:
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Materials for the catch system:
-3/4 in PVC Tee
-2 #8? Finishing washers
-3/4 in CPVC
-1/2 in CPVC
-Small Home Depot Spring (Exact sizes in the writeup)
-washer in the catch (Exact sizes in the writeup)
-E-Tape
-Super Glue
-cut down 10-24x1 1/2 Bolt
-Dremel of any type with a cone shaped diamond sanding bit and metal cutting bit
-Drill with drill Bits
-8x1/2 screws (to bolt it in place)
-3/4 in PVC
-Epoxy Putty
-1 1/4 in PVC Coupler
-metal Angle Bracket
1 1/4 in PVC



Now to start, The only way to make the catch not jet out of the back of the Snap, is to make it internal. I have found that the bottom of the tee is not neccessary. Only the ridge on the inside of the fitting is.

First, grab your 3/4 inch PVC Tee
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Then cut the Tee down. This part really doesn't matter. Just cut it down so it esaier to sand later.
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From here, sand the tee down so it fits nicely in the 1 1/4 in PC. You may have to sand the the middle of the coupler down. It doesn't matter as long as you have the two end sections have the lip still. It is also important to sand the inside ot the tee so that the catch ring fits, as well as the plastic bit that is on the side of the tee. It will not fit unless this is sanded down.
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Here is the Tee being test fit inside the PC.
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Next, the internal parts of catch needs to be made. By using previous writup, cut your 3/4 inch PVC to the length of the Tee. Then cut a 1/2 inch section off for the catch ring. Then cut the excess in half for the two supporting ends. The purpose of these is to keep the Plunger rod in position, and to keep the catch ring from moving too much.
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For the catch ring supports, wrap them in E-tape and fit them into both ends of the tee. Super glue them in place.
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Now for creating the catch ring setup.
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First, cut your 10-24x1 1/2 Bolt to about 2 cm.
For the washer, I used a washer with the OD of 1'', and the ID that is a little less than 5/16''.
For the spring, I used a spring in Home Depot's Assorted Spring Kit. The product number is #471864. The spring length is 13/16''. The diameter is about 1 cm. The spring needs to be cut down to between 8/16 and 9/16''. I used a bolt with a triangular shaped head. Your spring size may vary according to what type of screw you use.
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I then took a #8? finishing washer, flipped it upside down, and glued it to the washer using super glue. The purpose of this is to keep the spring from moving around on the washer.
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To help with this process, I used another finishing washer and placed it on the bolt head to keep the spring from slipping off the catch. Now just drill a centered hole through the CPVC and place the assembly on this. You may have to super glue the bolt to the CPVC for stability.
Again, here it is assembled:
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Test fit the Catch in your tee. If it fits and the wacher is stable, then you have done something right.
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Now in order to use this, you must make a sizable hole in the blaster in order to make sure that the catch can be released.
Once you have found the place you want you catch put in, mark a line on the PC from the center line inside of the tee.
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I then drilled a 7/32 hole in the PC where I wanted the catch to be located. A higher caliber drill bit would be ideal, but that was the highest I had at hand. From there. take your diamond cutting cone bit on your dremel, and dremel out the PC until you can fit your catch ring in place.
From this:
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To this:
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Test fit the tee
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Fit the catch ring in place:
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In order to use this blaster, you must have an internal Trigger to fire it. I used a modified version of BoltSniper's PVC handle. It is angled, and is attached to half of a 1 and 1/4'' PVC coupler using Epoxy Putty.
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I then drilled a hole in the center of the Coupler that would fit over the bolt in the catch.
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Now test fit the handle on the PC.
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