zipx

shoots hard, now has a stock and RSCB, and promotes healthy lifestyle choices.

Yes, the first option is better for a hopper and setting up a trigger and stock, but I cant stand priming forwards and I like having a straight barrel, so I like to use the second option. Right now I am working on an RSCB, a stock, and a trigger for the second option. The stock is harder than I expected, and all the trigger options that would reverse the direction of the trigger pull are way to complex and unstable, so I think I am just going to leave it a push trigger

hamoidar: The tab that functions as the trigger is not hard to depress, It is easier than a clothes pen trigger on a SNAP.

Great photos, much better than many I see on here. If I can get my hands on one of these grease guns, this will probably be my first homemade. It looks easy enough/non-intimidating to make. Have you tried attaching a hopper to it yet?

I have not tried attaching a hopper to it yet because I ran out of wyes, but when I do I will most likely pot it into another half threaded 2 in coupler to reduce deadspace. That's the beauty of this blaster, because the front end is threaded you can change it relativity easily, allowing you to have a hopper specific front part that would have significantly less deadspace than just attaching a hopper to the couplered end.

Hopefully this picture and diagram will clear things up slightly.





HasreadCoC: I would say it has about the strength of a [k25].

Post 2
Option B:

So, you like the idea of the grease gun nerf gun, but the turnaround thing is to unstable for you. You like things a little more straight forward (no pun intended) then this option is for you.

The material you will need:


Take ½ in coupler and fit it en the reducer. Notice that there is a ridge preventing the coupler from fitting through, use a dremle to widen this hole so the ½ in coupler can fit through.
Before:


After:


Once the 1/2in coupler fits inside the reducer wrap one end of the ½ in coupler with electrical tape (I used about 3 wraps) until it fits snugly in the threads.



Once this is done, take a drill bit slightly smaller than whatever nail or bolt you have and drill it the about half way down the side of the reducer assembly. (drill in about the length of your nail or bolt)
Drive the nail or bolt into the hole and through at least one side of the reducer and one side of the ½ in coupler.


Use whatever at hand (dremle, file, bench grinder) to grind the nail or bolt head to where is close to flush with the outside wall of the reducer.


Flip the reducer over and notice the gap crack between the Coupler and the reducer.


Fill this with hotglue.


To fill the, deadspace take some of that extra poopy foam back rod (I know you have some somewhere) and glue it in a ring around the coupler.


Take the reducer assembly and insert it by whatever means necessary into the smooth end of the 2 in coupler.



Finished product with barrel-


FOR BOTH VERSIONS:
When you are done creating the coupler assembly, wrap the threads of the grease gun in Teflon tape to create a seal. This will make the screws very tight and you might need to use a vise to unscrew the assembly.


Stage 3: Attach a handle
Do one of Carbons SNAP handles

Final thoughts:
Things I like-
-lot of plunger volume, 32.88 in2
-metal body
-modular
-no having to make a clothespin trigger
-just awesome
-it has a metal shine

Things I don’t like-
-fair amount of deadspace
-trigger creates slight bit of friction

Ranges:
I have not had the chance to test it with good darts, but I would guess 90-110ft