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ilzot

Member Since 06 Dec 2008
Offline Last Active Apr 28 2011 11:27 PM

Topics I've Started

New Gun Speculation Threads.

16 May 2010 - 10:17 PM

Recently, with pictures floating around of what could be upcoming guns, inevitably there has been a ton of topics about these guns, normally just informing the community, but soon turn into speculation. I'm not gonna lie, it's pretty fun, these speculation threads.

However, after a few hours/days of being up, they always get closed, or in the latest case, totally deleted.

So involving these closings and deletions, I have a few QUESTIONS. NOT SUGGESTIONS. Don't flame and say that these'll never be allowed or some bullshit, because I'm not asking for them to stay up.

Are these topics closed because they have to be due to copyright issues or just because the admins feel like it?

If it's a yes, is anyone affiliated with Nerf telling the administrators to do this?

Thanks. This is just out of pure curiosity.

Longshot Ar Removal

08 October 2009 - 09:30 PM

Getting my second longshot tommorrow.

I tried an air restrictor removal with little research on my first Longshot, and shattered the bolt. After hours of micro gluing and reassembly, it was together, but wouldn't catch.

So. How should I do this mod?

After watching one of ice's older videos, he seperated the section starting with the pe to the 3-pronged stopper in the plunger tube, all from the main bolt where the dart enters.

Should I just pull and hope for that to work? Or his "you have to leave the center bar in for the dart to hold right" a load of BS?

If you have drilled out the peg and center bar, so you have a totally empty bolt, post and let me know. That would be easier, but I just don't know if it'll work.

Vulcan Troubles..

24 August 2009 - 02:20 PM

Ok, so, I searched and searched and asked and asked and searched a bit more and still haven't seen or heard of anything like this.

The problem is with the cog/chain advancement system, though not like anything I've seen before. It's with probably the smallest, but one of the most important components of the gun.

It's a small wedge that works with the advancement wheel.

Here's pictures.

The problem is with this specific area.

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That orange wheel right in front of it is the chain cog.

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Here it is in its current state.

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I need it like THIS when nothing is pushing up against it.

There's a small spring that pushes it, but it seems to be so damn weak on my gun.

Any fixes?

Blaster Measurement Topic

20 August 2009 - 04:08 PM

Ok. I just saw BritNerfMogul's topic about how he needed Crossbow/PAS measurements, and in the past, I have yearned to know exact dimensions of a gun before I bought them, but never could. Hours upon hours and trying to accurately scale pictures from my screen was all in vain. I never did find any of those gun comparisons that I needed.

If you see any pictures of any guns in very crappy quality, respectably (is that a word?) post and put a new one in the same format.

So, a topic for those of us looking for these. If you have any guns, in stock, or near stock/non-interfering modifications (like, don't post a minimized Nitefinder, as that's fucking pointless.) PLEASE, take a picture on a tile floor or any other area of direct comparison WHILE ALL PUMPS OR COCKING MECHS ARE EXTENDED and post in the following format:

*POSTABLE picture link in code box*

*Scale amount (e.g, 1 tile = 3 inches, etc.)*
*FULL gun name*
*Name you want credit given to*

Thanks.

I'll start off with a few of my guns.

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1 tile = 4.5 inches
Nerf Hornet
By: ilzot

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1 tile = 4.5 inches
Nerf Rapid Fire 20
By: ilzot

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1 tile = 4.5 inches
Nerf Tech Target (Mega Style)
By: ilzot

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1 tile = 4.5 inches

Nerf Wildfire
By: ilzot

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Crayola Barrel Making - Full Write Up

22 May 2009 - 12:36 PM

Ok. Up until a bit ago, I used to be confused on the best way to make Crayola barrels. It's actually harder than it looks. I used to use a lot of shitty methods that would make me spend 20 minutes per barrel, but now, I can make 3-4 every 5 minutes.


MATERIALS

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A Crayola Marker.

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A Hacksaw.

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Pliars or a blunt pair of scissors.

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A Mitre Box (Optional, for straight cuts.)

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A long screwdriver.


PROCEDURE

Step 1 - Take the cap off of the marker. This is a HARD STEP. Throw the cap away when finished.

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Step 2 - Using your blunt pair of scissors/pair of pliars, yank out that retarded ink tip. Throw it away also.

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Step 3 - Cut on the line shown with a hacksaw. WARNING - YOUR HACKSAW MIGHT GET A CUTE SHADING OF THE MARKER COLOR YOU CUT. Throw away the piece that comes off (the short piece, obviously..)

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Step 4 - Grab one of those fibers or somehow get a grip on the ink cartridge. Pull that out. Throw it away.

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Step 5 - Stick the screwdriver into the hollow part of the marker, as shown -

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Get a good grip on the marker. DON'T LET YOUR HAND GO LOWER THAN THE END OF THE MARKER! If you do, when you slam it down, you can get a nasty blood-blister. Slam the screwdriver end onto the ground.

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Step 6 - Clean up your area/whatever else. When you get the chance, It's a good idea to run some water through this thing to clear up that color.

EXTRA STEP?

If you want to get rid of those 3 ridges on the inside of the barrel, here's how I do it.

Put a pair of skinny-ish scissors into the ridge-end of the barrel like so -

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And just twist them both opposite ways several times.

Use the scissors to snip off the little pieces that become unattatched.

It normally takes me 5 minutes to totally de-ridge them. I don't usually, becuase I only do this if it matched the ID of a plunger tube, like on the Tech Target.

You're done!

You now have a very cheap barrel material that works, and fits most batches of Frost King foam almost perfectly!