FoamSniper

Been a while since I've posted anything here, and this is technically a spinoff of a project I started about 2 years ago. I've taken something of an interest in less conventional methods of nerf-style looting and pillaging. I thought you guys might appreciate this, but you're probably all wondering how to get a range of 95' from a mech 20, especially seeing how posting that getting ranges with it over 20' seems to cause tension here. To put it bluntly... You don't.

I can say that darts will land 95' from the person pulling the trigger... in theory.


I present my thoughts for RONAVT (Remotly Operated Nerf Assault Vehicle Thingy)

Will Require:
1x Mech 20
1x Spy Gear Spy Video Remote-Controlled Car
1x Linear Actuator (to pull the trigger)
1x Additional RC transmitter / reciever kit with ~75' range to match the car



I'm headed to Wal-Mart later tonight to pick up the car I've already got the mech 20 working off a linear actuator (was part of an automated-tripod-mounted-motion-sensing sentinal gun I built). Hopefully this project will only require some basic soldering to get the actuator and on/off switch attached to the extra RC reciever and some body work to the car to mount the weapon onto it.

Worst case scenario, if the speed of the vehicle isn't that great, I could probably gut it and install it's camera into a larger RC vehicle and use the rc receiver to power the weapon rather than the vehicle.

If this works, it will change the battlefield in my office like never before. I will be able to hide under any desk, rain fire onto my enemies without exposing myself to return fire, unlike similar RC-nerf vehicles which do not have a camera. I'll try to keep you guys updated on progress made, but my net access is limited for the time being.


Happy nerfing in the mean time,
--Foamsniper

PS If anyone is wondering, the sentinal gun operated off a motion sensor I built consisting of a laser pointer, some mirrors and one of those light sensing night lights, and fired in one direction only (basically firing whenever the beam was broken). It was great for guarding doors, but people started examining the doors before they walked through.

I'm not sure if this is more of an Arctic Shock into a Maverick, or a Maverick into Arctic Shock, or a Arctic Shock and Maveric into a Homemade mod, but I'm more or less trying to make a semi auto revolver type. You're probably asking yourself "Why doesn't he just take the turret off an AT-2k?" I don't have one :)

I've got the valves and pumps from 2 arctic shocks and the turret from the maverick (including the trigger mechanism that turns it). Maverick parts aside, I'm having a real problem with range from my current design. I was actually getting signifigantly better range from my de-water'ed arctic shocks than I am now. Arctic Shock takes too long to type, so I'm abbreviating it "AS"

My current setup is pretty basic. I've got an 8" long piece of 3" pvc for the primary air tank, the air is pumped into the back end via the 2 AS pumps (cuts down on charge time having both). An AS valve covers the other end and releases pressure into the firing tank, which is a 3" long piece of 1" pvc which is capped on the other end by the other AS valve, which releases pressure into a temporary crayola barrel.

For some reason, I'm only getting ranges of about 20' flat, and I'm not understanding why. At first, I thought I was losing pressure, so I primed the weapon and put it in my bathtub. Air loss was negligible, a few bubbles here and there, but I'm not sealing it until the blaster is in its final form. I'm pretty sure the problem isn't that my firing chamber is too small since the air taink on an NS-1 is tiny and shoots further (rather embarassing actually). I don't have a digital camera so I can't post any pics, I was hoping someone here might have a guess as to my why this thing shoots so poorly when I was getting ranges of about 60' from the de-water'ed and crayola'ed AS (fired once and took forever to prime, probably would have shot further with a longer barrel...).

--FoamSniper

This isn't one of my mods, but a friend of mine just convinced me to drop my night finder and pick up my tech target (after I put this mod on it).

I mean the old tech target model that shot megas, not the new micro blaster. It's for the most part standard mods, barrel to shoot micros, better spring, etc. The one thing I never really liked about this gun was that it shot megas to begin with, so the two extra ammo slots hold only megas, and it was just never worth my time to mod these to hold micros.

The mod is basically to take a secret strike, strip off all unnecessary plastic and then cut the ammo tubes on the tech target so that the secret strike will fit and also cut a hole so the trigger button will stick out the bottom of the weapon.

As I did not build this one myself, I have no real directions on how to do it, but all it really looks to involve is a small amount of dremel work. Now if there were only a way to beef up that secret strike...

--FoamSniper

I'm building my first weapon from scratch, I've modded several, but this will be a learning expirience since I've never done anything with this type of firing mechanism. All my mods thus far have involved compressing air either by plunger or pump/airtank.

I'm designing a clip fed full-auto weapon, using two spinning disks to launch the darts (micros/stephans). The disks will spin constantly, regardless of whether or not the weapon is being fired (on/off switch to save on battery life). The trigger will simply be a catch that prevents darts from being put into the chamber. The clip will be a vertical feed, not a tube feed. When the trigger is depressed, it removes the catch and puts the front edge of the dart into the disks. I originally had a more complicated design, but the more mechanically complicated something is, the more likely it is to break... or just not work to begin with.

I haven't found as much info on spinning disk designs as I have for other designs, so I thought I'd post a few questions.

I'd like to know if anyone has any recommendations for how far appart my disks should be? If it matters, I'll be using toy car wheels, with rubber grip, and are 2.5" in diameter. Obviously I'll want to have them close enough to put a little bit of a bind on the dart in order to fire it, but far enough away to not squish the dart. I was hoping to skip some guess work.

Also, I cannot locate anything on a recommended barrel length for a spinning disk setup. I'm aware that there is a formula for weapons with compression cylinders, but I'm starting to think that barrel length will be a mostly cosmetic decision as it'll probably be about as accurate as it will ever be after just a few inches of pvc after the disks. Not that accuracy will be a huge concern for this weapon, I'd still like to be able to consistantly hit a paper plate from a reasonable distance.

I'll try to get some plans up on the web later tonight, when I'm not at work.

--FoamSniper