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Member Since 23 Oct 2008
Offline Last Active Oct 24 2015 08:35 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Raider Clip release

17 March 2012 - 07:12 PM

I had the same problem when i painted my raider. I would love to help you put it back together, but im not really sure what i can do for you over the internet

I dont see how that helps him in the slightest.

Here you go, I took pictures while taking it apart:
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\/ this one is blurry, look at the last picture for which part it is
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This is how it looks before you put it in, by accident in this picture the middle piece with the two prongs is upside down, just flip the piece so the two small prongs flip up and the larger single one flips down
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In Topic: ERTL Pump Action Shotgun Reproduction

09 January 2012 - 08:00 PM

You did a great job on the cleanliness of it, looks fantastic. Hopefully you will figure out a way to get rid of the rod coming out of the back.

Thanks. Yeah I'm still racking my brain to come up with some sort of telescoping method for the plunger rod so that it can retract after it is primed.

I like it, and while the rod out the back might be an issue, the stock could be easily redone to cover it, or even just some creative cutting of some PVC. Basically, just turn it into a thumb-hole stock and your problems are solved.

A plus to the rod is that it would be easy to Macgyver it to pull back if a problem arises with the pump mechanism mid-war.

Thanks. The curve of the stock where your hand goes works sort of like a thumb-hole stock where as when your thumb is in it, it is away from the rod and not really going to slip. That was my thoughts on the rod too. All I would need to do is add a hole so that I could just screw on a pull back handle to it if i needed to.

In Topic: ERTL Pump Action Shotgun Reproduction

08 January 2012 - 10:55 PM

Massive quote post

Looks very well done, nice job. The trigger looks uncomfy, but what ever works for you. Why a PAS though? The handle is really unwieldy on the stock one, why not give it an actual hand grip as well as the stock?
Also, wish the pictures were lighter.
It's nice to see new members that know how to do shit.

Thanks Ice. I don't know I have just always liked the pas and it seemed easy enough so I ran with it. Besides the fact that the price of it now is just ridiculous if you can even find one. The handle is a bit uncomfortable so maybe the rfsg might have been better. I saw your recent video about your homemade and I definitely agree with you about the draw being insane on your arm compared to a small stock draw so thats another thing to think about. Sorry about the pictures, the lighting in my room is crap. The trigger is a bit uncomfortable so i have to put some electrical tape or rubber on it or something

Well done my friend. This is really clean. And not a bad copy either. Oh I didn't see it but do you have official ranges for it?

Thanks. I don't have ranges yet, I have to re-lube it and get the ranges soon

I like it, though it could use some brighter colors.

That plunger rod looks like it will make it difficult to avoid destroying your hand while using the gun. There is definitely a better way of working out a priming system.

Funnily enough, I was thinking about doing something like this a little while back, but stuff got in the way.

EDIT: By the way, those "things you found in your dad's workshop" are drywall anchors, used for mounting things to drywall when there isn't an available stud.

Thanks for the info on the anchors. The placement of your hands keeps them away from the plunger rod so I didn't worry about it too much. There definitely is a better priming system that could be used

Wow that's an amazing reproduction! The only flaw is the plunger rod escaping towards the back, but hey, it doesn't have to be perfect. A ball shooting attachment would be fun to see.

Thanks. Yeah a ball shooting attachment would be cool to do. Next time I find some at a store I will have to pick some up and try it.

Nice. I'm working on something functionally similar, but with more polycarb- look for the write up soon-ish. I'm not sure about the durability of the priming rod though. Does it flex much?

Surprisingly there is not much flex. I look forward to seeing what you come up with.

In Topic: Polycarb-less Rainbowpump/ Snap-less Pumpsnap

19 November 2011 - 12:31 PM

Please resize your images. I'm sure imageshack provides a way to do this. I don't mind looking at blurry images, but these are taking a while to load and then my browser has to resize them locally to fit the width of the screen.

Thanks Langley I re-uploaded the pictures and resized them to the message board size option that it gave me which was 640x480. My camera takes obnoxious unnecessarily large images.

Excellent work. The internal ring has been done before, but don't sweat it. You're have problems with finding a barrel setup because the air output is massive, provided you use the entire slot you cut. A plunger tube four times the volume of the barrel is a good starting point. The radius of your PT is 0.805", and the barrel's radius is roughly 1/4".

Like Taer said, the bolt is a safety hazard. For the time being you can buy a cheap facemask at a hardware store. Because I'm a wimp I use one, and facerape isn't an issue. Your camera may have a macro setting for close-ups, that should take better pictures. There is also a significant difference from being farther away from the object and zooming instead of being close with no zoom. Experiment to find your camera's niche.

Thanks. The bolt isn't really a problem for me because I don't aim with my cheek where it could be hit by the bolt. But yeah it is a problem and I think I'm going to remake the plunger rod with the bolt on the sheath and a slot in the plunger rod.

Thanks for all the help with the barrel and the camera advice.

In Topic: Polycarb-less Rainbowpump/ Snap-less Pumpsnap

18 November 2011 - 10:14 PM

Thanks for all the advice about the post. Yeah and I know theres something wrong with my camera's settings and a lot of stuff is coming out blurry.

The pop rivets are the farthest thing from practical I could find short of gluing the parts together. I wanted screws but their is so little room between the 2" and the 1.5" pvc that using the screws I have at home made the 2" unable to move. I have to look around for some screw or see if I could countersink them.

After I took the picture I shortened the bolt a lot. It is the same width as the 2" pvc so it has much less chance of snagging on anything. I haven't used it as a cheek rest but trying it I can see a lot of dangers from this method. A better way would be to have the bolt attached to the plunger rod and have a groove in both the back piece and the plunger rod so that the only moving part is inside the back of the gun. I think I might try that. As long as the sheath or whatever you want to call it is in the forward position, it shouldn't be a problem. I just put it backwards to de-prime the blaster slowly. This is the length the bolt is now. It all depends on how you hold it.
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I honestly have no clue what the low pressure volume part of your question means. If you mean priming the blaster while a dart restricts the airflow into the chamber then it becomes near impossible to prime.

When I said precompressed its not compressed more than half inch so its not that difficult.

Ranges I will get tomorrow. I haven't really been able to find a good barrel length for this gun yet for some reason.

The regular handle is just screwed onto the gun body like this:
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For the pump grip handle, I filled most of the empty space with something. I can't remember. Then I epoxied in a piece of plastic and screwed a 2" coupler that I can remove in case I need to.
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There is also the option of a guard on top of the sheath so neither gets in the way. I saw that somewhere recently and I think the original Rainbow Pump did this.