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Polycarb-less Rainbowpump/ Snap-less Pumpsnap

New Style of Ring Catch (I hope)

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#1 LilNickyG

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 08:54 PM

If this has been done before I apologize. It is my own combination of all the information I have absorbed from Nerf forums.
I love the design of the Rainbow Pump and the recent Pump Snap but I don't have the time or patience to machine polycarbonate or figure out how to make a snap not fail after catching 3 times. So I came up with this. I'm not saying this is completely original because its not. Similar homemades can be found all over the NIC but this is my version of it. It's catch is the easiest, cheapest and most reliable catch that I have ever worked with. Ring catches have been around for a while now but they always required a T sticking out or some other variations requiring a lot of sanding and such so I came up with this.
All the pictures were taken after I built it so I'm missing a lot. And it's very unorganized at most points. My next ones will be much better than this.
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Materials-
1 ½” PVC
2” PVC
1” PVC T
1” PVC coupler that fits inside 1 ½” PVC x2
small bits of various sizes of PVC
corner bracket
small hinge
small catch spring
1/2” pex or cpvc
½” reducer that goes inside 1 1/2” PVC for barrels

To build the blaster, you cut two segments of 1 ½” PVC, one 14” and the other 8.5”. One the smaller piece, you cut slots in both ends so a bolt can go through them. You then put a 1” coupler inside so the two segments can be connected and put the T on the end.
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Then you need to take some PVC segments so you can fit it inside the pressure chamber and allow the plunger rod to slide through it with little friction to make the spring rest
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To make the catch, cut a piece of pipe that can slide over your plunger rod with a bit of room. I think I used 3/4”. Get a wood screw and cut it down like this:
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Make the plunger rod like this: your seal of choice on the end, at the point of near max compression, add the size of the spring rest and make a grove like any other ring catch gun.
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Glue/screw the reducer into the front of the gun
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Put the spring on the plunger rod, then put it all the way inside. Then put the spring rest on it and screw it in so the spring is compressed slightly. Then you screw a hole in the catch ring and a slightly larger one in the pressure chamber so that the part of the screw without threads can slide up and down. When the catch is assembled, the catch will almost touch the spring rest. You put the spring on the screw, then screw it into the PVC then slide the ring on and screw the small part into the ring. This is confusing me and I designed it, so heres a picture. Its very simple but hard to put into words.
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Next, you attach the front to the back. I used pop rivets because I didn't have screws that would let me slide the 2” PVC on top of it but if you have small enough screws, do it that way. The top of the blaster should be where the grove faces up.
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Next cut the sheath for the pump action mechanism. Leave a small gap on the side where it is closest to the back so that it can slide past the catch screw. I didn't take a picture of this when I had the gun apart so refer to the first picture for how I did it.Slide it on and proceed to the next step.
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Next is the trigger. I riveted a angle bracket from a broken snap to a hole in a small hinge. Then I screwed the hinge onto the pressure chamber so that it could move and push the screw up but not tight enough to prevent the catch from staying engaged.
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Next I cut out a handle from a broken dart tag blaster and used tone for the handle and one for the pump grip. I used six screws to screw it on. Check to make sure the catch stays engaged before and after this because it sometimes interferes with the catch and caused me trouble the first time I put it together.
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Next you put a bolt in the plunger rod so that when the sheath goes back, it pushes the plunger rod back. You also can put a string to prevent dry firing damage to the gun.

I took these pictures while I was disassembling the gun so everything is backwards and I forgot to take pictures of a lot of things.
Here is basically how the catch works:
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Edited by LilNickyG, 19 November 2011 - 12:23 PM.

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#2 taerKitty

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 09:38 PM

Okay, first: a meta-post(a post about the post):

You're posting thumbnails. Go back and edit your OP, taking out all the .th in the image URLs. You'll need to do that in a word processor / text editor.

While you're at it, search for "jpg/" and replace with "jpg".

Don't worry about douchebags thread-crapping about how they had the idea first or so-and-so did that particular technique first. It's one thing if you post yet another "How to remove the AR from an NF" mod, but this looks like it has some techniques gathered together for the first time. (Disclaimer: I don't follow the Homemades forum very intently, so I may be wrong.)

Organize your post. Don't edit in the text box, edit in an outside word processor / text editor, then copy and paste into the text box.

Take your time writing it up. Imagine it's a report for the hardest teacher you ever had in your academic career, the most acerbic, nit-picky, and, dammit, knowledgable one. That's NH for you - some members here know more than you, and won't hesitate to let you know it. (No, I definitely am not one of them.)

Take multiple shots of each image, and review each one after shooting it, if possible. One of your pics are blurry.

===

I like using 1" fittings in 1-1/2" pipe so it looks cleaner. I need to try that.

I'm not a fan of using pop-rivets because they can't be easily disassembled. You can drill them out, true, but that doesn't work if you need to dive into your blaster because something went sproing in the field.

The one thing that worries me about this design is how the stock can't be used as a cheek rest - both the bolt is sliding back and forth, and the sheath make it impractical (or dangerous.)

Do you have enough airflow to keep the plunger from forming a low-pressure volumen in the blaster when fired?

I like the internal spring rest, but don't know how you can secure it with precompression - strikes me that you three or four hands to accomplish.

Ranges?

Would like to see how the handles are attached. Yes, you said 6 holes, but what are the attached to?

I like this design a lot - I am very tempted try building it, but with a cheek rest to address the bolt issue.

Edited by taerKitty, 18 November 2011 - 09:39 PM.

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Fugly is a feature.

#3 LilNickyG

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:14 PM

Thanks for all the advice about the post. Yeah and I know theres something wrong with my camera's settings and a lot of stuff is coming out blurry.

The pop rivets are the farthest thing from practical I could find short of gluing the parts together. I wanted screws but their is so little room between the 2" and the 1.5" pvc that using the screws I have at home made the 2" unable to move. I have to look around for some screw or see if I could countersink them.

After I took the picture I shortened the bolt a lot. It is the same width as the 2" pvc so it has much less chance of snagging on anything. I haven't used it as a cheek rest but trying it I can see a lot of dangers from this method. A better way would be to have the bolt attached to the plunger rod and have a groove in both the back piece and the plunger rod so that the only moving part is inside the back of the gun. I think I might try that. As long as the sheath or whatever you want to call it is in the forward position, it shouldn't be a problem. I just put it backwards to de-prime the blaster slowly. This is the length the bolt is now. It all depends on how you hold it.
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I honestly have no clue what the low pressure volume part of your question means. If you mean priming the blaster while a dart restricts the airflow into the chamber then it becomes near impossible to prime.

When I said precompressed its not compressed more than half inch so its not that difficult.

Ranges I will get tomorrow. I haven't really been able to find a good barrel length for this gun yet for some reason.

The regular handle is just screwed onto the gun body like this:
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For the pump grip handle, I filled most of the empty space with something. I can't remember. Then I epoxied in a piece of plastic and screwed a 2" coupler that I can remove in case I need to.
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There is also the option of a guard on top of the sheath so neither gets in the way. I saw that somewhere recently and I think the original Rainbow Pump did this.

Edited by LilNickyG, 19 November 2011 - 12:26 PM.

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#4 Langley

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:38 PM

Please resize your images. I'm sure imageshack provides a way to do this. I don't mind looking at blurry images, but these are taking a while to load and then my browser has to resize them locally to fit the width of the screen.
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You can poop in my toilet anytime champ.

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#5 Curly

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 10:44 PM

Excellent work. The internal ring has been done before, but don't sweat it. You're have problems with finding a barrel setup because the air output is massive, provided you use the entire slot you cut. A plunger tube four times the volume of the barrel is a good starting point. The radius of your PT is 0.805", and the barrel's radius is roughly 1/4".

Like Taer said, the bolt is a safety hazard. For the time being you can buy a cheap facemask at a hardware store. Because I'm a wimp I use one, and facerape isn't an issue. Your camera may have a macro setting for close-ups, that should take better pictures. There is also a significant difference from being farther away from the object and zooming instead of being close with no zoom. Experiment to find your camera's niche.
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#6 LilNickyG

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Posted 19 November 2011 - 12:31 PM

Please resize your images. I'm sure imageshack provides a way to do this. I don't mind looking at blurry images, but these are taking a while to load and then my browser has to resize them locally to fit the width of the screen.


Thanks Langley I re-uploaded the pictures and resized them to the message board size option that it gave me which was 640x480. My camera takes obnoxious unnecessarily large images.

Excellent work. The internal ring has been done before, but don't sweat it. You're have problems with finding a barrel setup because the air output is massive, provided you use the entire slot you cut. A plunger tube four times the volume of the barrel is a good starting point. The radius of your PT is 0.805", and the barrel's radius is roughly 1/4".

Like Taer said, the bolt is a safety hazard. For the time being you can buy a cheap facemask at a hardware store. Because I'm a wimp I use one, and facerape isn't an issue. Your camera may have a macro setting for close-ups, that should take better pictures. There is also a significant difference from being farther away from the object and zooming instead of being close with no zoom. Experiment to find your camera's niche.

Thanks. The bolt isn't really a problem for me because I don't aim with my cheek where it could be hit by the bolt. But yeah it is a problem and I think I'm going to remake the plunger rod with the bolt on the sheath and a slot in the plunger rod.

Thanks for all the help with the barrel and the camera advice.

Edited by LilNickyG, 19 November 2011 - 12:32 PM.

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