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Member Since 04 Sep 2008
Offline Last Active Mar 13 2011 05:28 PM

Topics I've Started

Stormtrooper Blastech E-11 Raider With Brass Breech

25 October 2009 - 01:30 PM

Stormtrooper BlasTech E-11 Raider with Brass Breech
This is my Nerf Raider mod, which was inspired by the Stormtrooper BlasTech E-11 blaster in the movie Star Wars 4 A New Hope. I say inspired by because it is not an exact replica, it takes certain elements and it does closely resemble the right dimensions, but if you look closely you can see some Raider characteristics poking through. I have always had this mod in-mind and wanted to do it, I just could not find the right gun to fit the design. The release of the Raider just screamed at me that perhaps this was the right platform.

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This is essentially two mods in one, the practical and the cosmetic. Each can be treated as separate and I am using two posts in the same thread to get it all down. They are not dependent on each other and one could attempt the internal modifications without doing any of the cosmetic stuff and vise versa. This first post therefore will cover these sections:
1. The Breeching System, Angle-style Brass breech.
2. The Propulsion System, this contains the springs and the behind-the-bolt modifications.

And the second post will cover the remaining sections:
3. The Butt Cap, The Butt Cap covers the propulsion systems in the back and ties it into the cosmetic aspect of the mod. This section can be skipped and one can substitute a plain PVC end cap instead.
4. The Barrel Housing, This is strictly cosmetic and has no effect on the working of the blaster.
5. The add-on Accessories, Purely cosmetic, these add nothing to the functioning of the blaster, but are intended to enhance the look. Includes the scope.
6. Stock and Pump, For cosmetic reasons I needed a folded stock, for practical reasons I needed a pump handle, I compromised and made a folding stock that does not unfold and acts as a shotgun-style pump handle.
7. The body & Barrel Housing, The body of the Raider did not need too much modification

Section 1 The Breeching System
This breech put simply is an Angel Breech modified for use in the Raider. One modder in the NIC has talked about doing one of these for the Raider and renaming it for themselves, but I will not do that. Though I am first to post a brass breech for the Raider, credit goes where credit is due and this is essentially FA-24s Angel Breech concept, adapted to the Raider.

One significant change that I made was to make it accommodate CDDTs and Streamlines so that the drum can be used. I also replaced about 60% of the stock bolt which is junk. In theory this system should be adaptable to the Recon as well being that it shares the same internal elements.

One benefit of the Angel Breech was that it eliminates the dart tooth some of the inefficiencies in the Raiders design. With regards to the AR, I am eliminating that whole section entirely, forget it.
Ok, for the breech I gathered materials:
1/2 inch Brass tubing
9/16 inch Brass tubing
17/32 inch Brass tubing
19/32 inch Brass tubing
Electrical Tape

There are two parts to this, the barrel end and the bolt end. Starting with the barrel end I measured out on a piece of half inch Brass the section of pipe that would receive the ammo from the magazine or drum. I should say right here that I assumed that I would be using Streamlines and CDDTs as ammo for this. Stefans do not work well with the drum.

Before cutting the half-pipe I added tightening rings after the area I measured out for the half-pipe. Hint: If you can, use an old pipe cutter for this. My new pipe cutter sliced right through the pipe the first time I did this. When I used an older pipe cutter the older duller blade made better rings without risking a cut.
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I then cut the half-pipe with the Dremel, actually the pipe material left behind was a tad less than half. The magazine needs to be able to get around it.

I then e-taped the section of pipe that goes inside part of the barrel where the dart tooth is or was and glued it in-place. I notched the e-tape on the backside to clear a space for the top part of the bolt that is connected to the sled.
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Troubleshooting note: If when you are all done, the bolt locks open and will not close, take the gun apart and see if the half-pipe has popped out of the bolt and jammed up the works. If that be the case you made the half-pipe too short. Also make sure you took out the locks.

Now on the bolt side of the equation start by cutting off the bolt in front of the rear section. The bolt is glued into the rear section which goes in and out of the plunger tube. Posted Image

Cut off the bolt forward of that joint and the carefully dremel out the remaining bits that are still glued inside the collar. At some point you may be able to wrench out the pieces with needle nose pliers, but be careful not to damage the collar it is very thin. Posted Image

Now set aside the rear section until you build the new brass bolt, then you can bring them together.

The bolt is made up of four different sizes of brass, one that is smaller diameter than the barrel, one that is larger diameter than the barrel and two that are in between that act as spacers between the outer and inner tubing. This is all classic Angel Breech stuff I just change the measurements.
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I made my inner piece is slightly longer than the outer tube so that it will push the dart just a tad more into the barrel, thus reducing the risk of them getting pinched in the breech. You can see in the pic that I left the end pinched slightly where it was cut. This is such a minor detail, but one that helps make sure that the piece of brass hits the back of the dart like it should and pushes it forward.
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Section 2 Propulsion system
To give the whole system an extra push, springs were added behind the plunger tube. This is something I did in a recon mod a while back with good results. The concept being to lop off the plunger tube covering in the back so the tube can exit the gun and attaching a larger PVC tube in its place containing springs. This is not a new concept it has been done before on Recons and Raiders. It does not have to be done this way, I did it this way because it supported my later aesthetic part of the mod.
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You will notice in the picture that I also cut the mounting piece off of the Raider stock. The bit of plastic that I left on the mounting piece fit inside the PVC after I took the dremel to it. For reinforcement I added two small machine screws through both the PVC and the mounting piece to hold it all together then added plumbers putty to seal both the inside and outside.
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On the inside I grinded down the nubs of the screws and smoothed out the putty so as to keep the way clear for the springs. In the butt cap that goes on the back of the PVC I added plumbers putty and a ring of the grey tube I cut off the plunger tube covering. I also added a piece of pen, sticking it in the center of the cap. These were just guides for the two springs to keep them straight and in tangled.
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In this above pic the plunger tube covering does not look right, just ignore that part of the picture; it was a test that did not work out. I ended up cutting the entire tube off leaving just the square piece (see 3 pics back).

Additional reinforcements:

Other modifications that I did that do not fit in the above sections include the catch, upon which I hot glued a stronger spring:
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I likewise swapped the spring on the trigger for a stronger one. No pic for that as you know what that looks like.

I also reinforced the pump rod connection on the boltsled as it was flopping about quite a bit:
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Also, not pictured, I added a rubber washer to the bolt to lessen the impact of the plunger tube slamming into it. I just glued it to the opening and used the dremel on low power to shave the washer to the right size. If you go slowly you will not melt the washer.

After swapping the stock spring with a Recon spring I get just a little more than stock Raider ranges. That does not sound like much but when you consider all that is going on here and the fact that the ammo is going through a real barrel instead of a fake oversized one it makes more sense. Accuracy on the other hand is greatly improved with the use of stefans or CDDTs. The stock streamlines are always crap. Regardless of what mod you do to the gun, Streamlines can go in any which direction, rarely straight. Though this mod was made to use Streamlines, I recommend substituting CDDTs at the very least.

The real gravy comes with the added two springs in the rear. Those springs add another 15-20 feet to the stock ranges. I know that is not much, but the Raider is hardly a primary type weapon. It is meant for in-close action and the design is near identical to the Recon, need I say more? I will not say we have completely maxed out its potential here but it does look that way for the moment. The plunger tube is only so big and no matter how hard and fast you hit it its only holds a finite amount of air to push out. To get more range one would need to address this air capacity issue.

That is it for the practical side. Now for the fun stuff, continue on post 2 if interested in the aesthetics.

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How Old Are You Right Now?

18 February 2009 - 12:19 PM

Hey guys. I'm trying to figure out what concentrations of age demographics we have here in the Nerfing community. If you could pop your age in the poll that would be great. This is anonymous and won't be used against you in any way.

On the second question, are you a Nerfer (go to wars), do you mod, do you do both? Are you just a collector? Or do you have absolutely no life and are just here for the entertainment value.

Han Solo Blaster Replica

02 January 2009 - 08:20 PM

Han Solo Blaster Replica

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This is my Nightfinder / Han Solo Blaster mod, inspired by the movie The Empire Strikes Back (the blaster is different from the one in Star Wars - A New Hope). The mod elements here are mostly cosmetic, but of course I ramped up the power so it will have respectable ranges.

I wasn't going to post the whole mod because its a 90% cosmetic job, but because it was requested...here it is. Enjoy.

Shopping List
½" CPVC pipe
¾" CPVC pipe
CPVC ½" to ¾" adapter
2 CPVC ½" bushings
Funnel (for automotive liquids)
Plumber's Putty, Squadron Green Putty, epoxy

The shell
I started with an empty shell; everything removed and set aside. The shell needed cuts with the saw and Dremel to remove the whole front end from the plunger tube-forward.
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This opened up a rectangular hole in the front of the shell which I closed up with Plumber’s Putty. I also added putty next to the trigger guard to make the area all the same level and thickness. I added a lot of putty to the handle grip to adjust for all the contours that make up the stock NF design. I laid down putty in the most difficult fill-in areas first, and then after it hardened I came back and did a second layer for smoothness, covering the entire handle. I ran a razor knife down the seam of the shell to separate the two sides, BEFORE the putty hardened.

Once all the areas are covered, I took a Dremel sanding cylinder to the putty to smooth it out. This kind of work is always prime time to wear dust mask and glasses! I then put an orbit sander upside-down in a vice and worked over the handle again (I really need to get a table-top belt sander). This helped remove scarring caused by the Dremel and smooth out the roughness. I next coated all the putty areas with Squadron Green Putty and set it aside to dry.

When the green putty dried, I sanded it smooth. I using a fine grit, 220 I think. Do not use the Dremel or a tougher grit as the green putty is soft and will scrape away too quickly. The goal here is a soft smooth finish, not to take all the green off. These steps took about four days, most of which time spent waiting for putty to harden.

In addition, I covered over the Nerf symbol with putty. For the butt or bottom of the handle I needed to remove the covering for the battery compartment and somehow manufacture a rounded dome shape in its place.

First I took a wide piece of blue painter's tape, folded it over and clamped it between the two halves of the shell, leaving about two inches of it hanging out the bottom. This would keep the two halves of the shell separate from each other. I taped the shell closed and using two Stefan blanks I plugged up the battery compartment on each side of the blue tape. I stuck one end of the Stefan blank in one battery hole, bet the Stefan over and stuck the other end in the other hole then repeated the process on the other side. The idea behind the Stefan blanks was to start the shape and to cut back on the amount of putty needed. Putty is expensive and heavy. Using a ton of it will cause your blaster to be too heavily weighted in the back and very costly.
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The next step was to take a ball of plumber's putty, split it in half and start packing it on like clay on the end of the handle, half on each side of the painter's tape. Using fingers and thumbs like a pottery guy, I worked and shaped the curve of the putty to form the butt as if it was clay and I was sculpting. I made sure it adhered to the shell, I followed the curve of the stefans and the form a dome shape began to emerge. The painter's tape right in the middle, separated the two halves of the dome.

The next day I used the Dremel to knock down protruding edges and heavier spots and smooth everything out to a more uniform, dome-like shape. This took a bit of time but in the end the I had a passable dome shape. I used an electric sander and some 100 grit sandpaper to further smooth and shape.

When ready, I started the finish work, using liberal amounts of the Squadron Green Putty on the dome shape. By this time I had removed the painter’s tape and I was working on the butt as if it were one piece. This is important because you want to compare each side to the other so you can make them look like mirror images of each other. I used more green putty to build up low areas and to feather the edges into the rest of the handle. From here there was more sanding with finer and finer grits of paper and the filling in of gaps with more green putty until I achieved the shape and smoothness that I was looking for. Keep in mind that my target, Han Solo's blaster, was originally modeled on, the Mauser "broom handle" automatic pistol and so the shape of the wood-grip handle was important to the project. Note the vast differences in this pic between stock and modded grips.
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The scope was made the same way that the barrel was made. I glued ¾" CPVC onto a different piece from the same funnel.
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I used Plumber's Putty to connect the pieces and Squadron Green Putty to smooth out the connection for a more finished look. It was mounted more putty and a half-tube of ½" CPVC. I cut it down the tube lengthwise then added putty inside it, attached it to the scope, then attached putty to the outside and attached it to the side of the rail on the NF. I taped it all in place and let it harden up. I then went back out the joints with hot glue. When the glue dried, I went over the joints again; this time with Squadron White Putty (ran out of green, the white does the same job).
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The barrel itself is ½" CPVC tubing, but it's outfitted with extra parts that are purely cosmetic. The front part is made up of a CPVC ½" bushing, inside a ½" to ¾" CPVC adapter with a piece of funnel glued to its front. Owing to the length of the barrel and its forward accoutrements I decided to use a coupler set-up so the whole barrel can come out, be loaded from the rear and replaced.
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The internal modifications were pretty standard. I removed the air-restrictor. I broke off the AR post and used the Dremel to clean out the AR ring. To this ring I attached a ½" CPVC bushing with plumber's putty. I had to Dremel one side of the bushing to get it around a screw.
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I then took this piece, the spacer ring and the plunger tube and glued them together with epoxy and let them dry in a clamp to keep them all tight. I also added e-tape to secure it all together.

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I added an industrial strength spring to the plunger and kept the stock one as well.

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Ready for final assembly.

That is basically the entire mod, except for paint.

The paint for the handle was first sprayed brown. Then with a lighter color called "wood" (imagine that), I brushed-on the color lightly with a fan style bristle to create the appearance of wood-grain.
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The grip grooves and the seam going down the back of the handle were painted on with the same metallic black as the rest of the gun. This took some delicate masking-tape work.

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The overall gun-metal color of the body was achieved with a metallic black paint manufactured by Valspar. I primed the shell first and then laid down three coats of this metallic black. This paint smells like the dickens, do this outside! I repeat, Warning! This metallic paint by Valspar stinks horribly, use this stuff outside and away from people you like.

Finally, the muzzle break was painted with a silver metallic color. The grooves and other details were applied by-hand and brush. Warning, soft pliable plastics, like the funnel in this case, cause problems for the green putty. When the plastic flexes it cracks the putty. I hade to make some fixes during the process.

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Muzzle-break close-up.

The Scope
When the paint was all done, I came back to the scope and added a cross-hair piece that I swiped off a Titan. I just cut it to fit inside and wedged it in with my finger. Then I tacked it into place with a couple drops of superglue, nothing fancy.
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Done. Still fires like a NF, just need to remove the barrel, rear-load a Stefan, replace the barrel, prime with the plunger and fire.

The ranges are typical for your standard NF mods with spring upgrades, nothing special.
Averages in the 50s+ with red stefans.

The other side, handle view-
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Disclaimer: Modifying Nerf blasters is a dangerous business and should not be attempted by anyone with a maturity of an Ewok. This mod will not make you cool like Han Solo, you will not be able to take out Imperial Probe Droids with one shot and it will not allow you to kiss your friend’s sister. May the Nerf be with you!

"These aren't the stefans you're looking for."
-Obi Foam Kenobi

Maverick / Titan Integration

02 December 2008 - 01:50 PM

Maverick with Titan Integration

This is my Maverick with Titan Integration, or perhaps ‘combination’ would be more accurate.
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The goal of this mod was to give the Maverick a power boost yet keep it looking somewhat stock. It has been singled, so it is probably not the best choice as a sidearm for war; however what it looses in number of rounds it makes up for in power. The power comes from a Titan air tank, positioned where the turret used to be. The tank is charged with an AT3k plunger and tube concealed behind the slide. The barrel was replaced with a coupler that accepts different barrel attachments. For the purposes of test firing this mod, I am using a single barrel of PETG set inside a 3-inch long piece of ½” PVC.

Shopping List:
Titan air tank
AT3k plunger and plunger tube
PVC Coupler
Length of ½” PVC
Length of PETG
Twist-tie from a Nerf box
Black plastic strip from a Nerf box
3/8” diameter Aluminum rod
2 Nylon spacers
E-tape, hot glue, epoxy and putty

Step one, I began by opening the Maverick and removing the turret and all the internal components, the only thing I kept was the trigger assembly. The opening where the turret usually sits needed a little Dremel work to fit the Titan’s tank. It was also necessary to remove the colored ring at the top of the tank.

With very few modifications the tank fit amazingly well. Posted Image

I also cut off the air nozzle and tubing that connects the tank to the Hornet. I jammed a tiny screw into the open nozzle hole and glued it shut. I then removed the short tube that connected the tank to its own pump and trimmed down that nozzle about a half-inch.

I removed the threaded barrel on the front of the Titan tank. The removal had to be done carefully as to not damage the valve that holds back the air. I cut about three-quarters of the threaded barrel’s length in the first pass. I could have gone a little further, except I didn’t know where the valve started. After I could see the valve, I used the Dremel to take the remaining barrel edge down the rest of the way and make it flush. Flush is important in ensuring the barrel straightness later on. At this point I put the shell back together with the Titan tank in-place to confirm that the shell could close unhindered. I had to make a few small adjustments to the shell with the Dremel to make it close properly around its various protrusions.

Step Two, I chose a small coupler for the barrel, 1 ½” x ½” (not threaded). I glued the coupler to the tank, trying to keep its opening as perfectly centered above the valve as possible. After the glue dried I added plumber’s putty to the inside of the coupler. This performed two functions; the putty strengthened the bond between coupler and tank and also helped fill in dead space. I had to be very careful with the putty as not to plug up the valve.
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I then cut a circle in the front of the gun shell to accommodate this coupler. I used a flat wood drill bit (there is probably a better choice of bit, a hole cutter for example, but I’m working with what I had available). Be careful with the flat wood drill bit as they can grab an edge on an odd angle and rip things apart. I taped the shell closed and stuck it in a vice so it wouldn’t jump or vibrate too much while making the hole. Even scoring the surface of the plastic and finishing it off with a Dremel will help achieve a perfectly round hole.
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Step Three, as there is very little room in the shell, I connected the plunger tube directly to the tank straight-on (totally eliminating hoses). I laid the tank and pump out inside the shell, making sure the pump tube was clear of the triggering rod.

When I was sure of the positioning, I marked the pump tube where I needed to drill. The nozzle on the tank needed to be inserted directly into the plunger tube. Caution, just behind the back wall of the tube is a rubber disk that acts as a baffle for air. When I drilled through the back wall of the tube, I had to do so slowly and go just deep enough to pierce the plastic and without cutting into the rubber. Then I inserted the trimmed tank nozzle into the hole in the pump tube and slathered it up with epoxy. I let harden and then added more epoxy. Later on when everything dried, I applied plumber’s putty around the joint and from tube to tank, essentially encapsulating and immobilizing the entire connection.
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The reason I chose the AT3k plunger and tube was for the same reason as above, limited space. The AT3k tube fit reasonably well in the Mav shell without too many changes, whereas the Titan plunger tube was just too big.

Step four; the shell also needed Dremel work in the back to accept the plunger tube which is a tad fatter and longer than the slide. What I did here was to Dremel the shell heavily in top and side areas to accept the tube. After Dremel work I was able to squeeze the shell shut around the tube, except where the e-tape is securing the before-mentioned nozzle that I sealed up. To fix this I needed to notch holes in the shell, just on the sides where the taped plunger tube area was pushing against the shell and preventing it from closing.
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Later during cosmetic work I covered both of these cuts in the shell with putty. I applied blue painter’s tape inside the shell, covering over each opening from inside, then reassembled the shell with the plunger tube in its proper place (this caused the tape to bulge outward slightly). I then applied plumber’s putty to the openings and mashed them into place, covering the holes and shaping the putty to look more like it was supposed to be there. Hint: apply painter’s tape in areas that you do not want the putty to adhere to, and then during the drying process, before the putty hardens completely, come back at the putty with an Exacto knife and trim the edges. This cuts down on sanding time later.

For cosmetic reasons I also sealed up the old barrel opening in the shell as the new hole and coupler were positioned more in the middle. To seal it up, I first used blue painter’s tape to cover the hole on the outside of the shell, notching the tape for the coupler which tends to overlap the hole. I took a spare coupler and covered it with blue tape and inserted it into the shell where the real one would sit when finished. This formed a basin between the shell, the coupler and the tape where the original barrel opening was.
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I filled this basin with hot glue (on the inside of the shell). When the glue hardened, I removed all the tape, took out the coupler and viola! The gap in the shell was perfectly filled solid with hot glue. With a little primer and paint, no one can tell there was once a hole there.

Step five; the trigger assembly for the Maverick consists of a trigger, an extension spring, and a plastic bar that is attached to the trigger with a screw. The goal here was to connect that screw on the Mav trigger to the release-rod on the Titan tank. For this we need two items off a Nerf box a twist tie and one of those flat black strips of plastic that anchor the twisty ties to the Nerf boxes.

I was going to do some elaborate machining of some aluminum, but I decided against it and knocked this up in about a minute and a half.

The strip of plastic from the Nerf box already had a hole in one end so cut the strip to a one-inch length and drilled a smaller second hole at the end opposite the larger hole. I removed the screw from the trigger; put it through the smaller hole in the strip of plastic and replaced the screw back in the trigger. I had to shave down one edge of the plastic strip to keep it from getting pinched when I closed the shell. By trimming a thin strip off the bottom of the plastic piece I was able to fit it all inside the shell completely. It sounds like a ridiculously tiny detail, but if its poking through the shell, it can potentially get hung-up or snagged on the shell edge and you don’t want anything interfering with the triggering mechanism, better to keep it all inside.

The release-rod on the Tank has an orange plastic piece around it to which I was able to anchor the twisty tie. I used two pairs of needle nose pliers to do this, one to hold, one to twist. The other end of the twisty tie went through the hole in the plastic strip and back up to the release rod again. I took up as much slack as possible before securing it to the release rod, then snipped off any excess tie with some wire clippers. Done, the trigger now controls the release-rod.
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Step six, the plunger handle need to be plugged. The AT3k plunger cannot get but a couple pumps before the safety valve on the plunger kicks in so to get any good air in the tank, I had to hot glue the hole in the top closed. At the other end, I removed a plastic piece that was on the plunger rod itself, leaving the cube-shaped piece of plastic that was attached to the rod.

On the sides of this cube were holes that I used as guides for my drill bit. I drilled past the holes and through the rod itself. Through this I installed a 3” piece of 3/8” solid aluminum rod.
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On each end of the rod I attached nylon spacers and glued it all together. The result is a grip for operating the plunger rod.

For this mod, the stock Maverick slide handles were only cosmetic so I cut the back end off each piece for the plunger rod, Dremelled the back a bit and then glued them onto the shell in a position somewhat back from where they usually sit at rest. From the rear view, It can be seen that the end of the pump tube is wider than the plunger handle, which means the plunger tube flops around loosely and at odd angels when not in-use. This had to be fixed and at the same time make it so the plunger does not fall out during pumping. To that end, I fabricated a ring made from a ¼” long piece of ¾” CPVC glued to the inside a ¼” long piece of CPVC coupler.

I cut this ring in half and glued each half to the sides of the shell, so that when the shell closes around the plunger handle it captures it and sits right at the opening of the plunger tube. Both the ring and tube are approximately the same OD (outside diameter), but the ring has a smaller ID (inside diameter). This means the plunger can operate in the tube, but is stopped just short of exiting the tube.

Permanently affixing each half-ring to one side of the shell allows the shell to be opened at will. The cutting in half also allowed me to get the ring around the plunger handle without dismantling said plunger. The fit does not have to be snug, the plunger handle just needs to be able to move freely. The ring is only acting as a guide to keep the rod straight and to keep the plunger from falling out of the gun.

I taped up the plunger tube to protect it against dripping residue inside, and then I applied hot glue around the ring to secure it in place.
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Epoxy proved too thin for this and dripped down into the gun, bad. The hot glue stayed as a blob and held its position. Before laying down the glue I jammed some FBR into each of the corners to act as a platform for the hot glue. Later when everything hardened I was able to open up the shell and remove the foam pieces. However, before the glue hardened completely, I ran my Exacto knife down the two cuts in the ring to make sure the separation between the two halves was clean.

For cosmetic reasons, I added putty to the outside of the ring, covering the hot glue. I added some on the sides as well to fill in gaps. I tried to make it a smooth as possible to reduce sanding time later. Before it hardened completely, I ran the Exacto knife down the center cuts again to make sure the two haves remained separate. I also ran the Exacto around the inside of the ring to clear out any residue.
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The barrel can be anything you want, single or shotgun, long or short. For this mod I went with short, but as it’s couplered I can swap it out at any time. I cut a 3” long piece of ½” PVC tubbing and lined it with PETG. I put tape around the PETG at one end, and then glued the PETG to the inside of the PVC. The barrel is loaded by removing the PVC from the coupler and inserting the projectile into the rear then replacing the PVC into the coupler. One could just push it down the barrel, but it would require a push-rod to push it all the way to the back.
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The mod is done. From this point onwards are the cosmetics of the project, aka paint. The Tank and barrel were first primed in silver using Vinyl Dye, and then painted with silver. Most of the rest was primed with black vinyl dye, and then painted with flat black. I used a gray colored enamel for the grip and silver highlights on the various screw heads and lines.
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Ranges, using the three inch PETG barrel and fishing-weight Stefans:
Flat with 30 pumps: average 45 feet,
Flat with 40 pumps: average 65 feet.
More pumps will get more distance but accuracy drops off because of the three-inch barrel.

I hope you enjoyed this. Happy Nerfing!

*Note: To those who saw the original write-up for this on Foam Universe will notice that this has half the amount of pictures. This is due to restrictions on the pictures that can post on this forum. The most important stuff is here so you are not missing anything. If you have a question I will be happy to answer and post supporting pics.

By NerfDude1138

Disclaimer: Modifying Nerf toys is a dangerous business and should never be attempted by anybody for any reason at any time. Do not attempt to follow my precise and detailed step-by-step instructions on how to recreate this awesome mod. In fact the world is a dangerous place; you should probably just stay indoors and never leave your house. :D