ReThink

Sorry in advance for shitty phone camera quality, grainy AF.

I present an unnamed firefly mod + paintjob:

EDIT: Second Paintjob ever, used Duplicolor vinyl grey and some older acrylic craft paints, finished with rustoleum matte clear coat.

Mods Include:

-Capacitor removal

-Dart holder spacer/padding (modified to fit elite darts, used to only hold old-style suction darts 

-Spring upgrade

-O- Ring seal improval

-Barrel/Turret alignment (mine was mostly fine, I was one of the lucky firefly users who did not experience this to a larger degree)

-Relubrication of rotation mech, trigger, plunger, spring-loaded plunger cap (firefly users will know), and plunger tube

-AR removal

-Paintjob (left orange priming slider, trigger, tip, and switch for legal reasons and for use in HvZ)

-Turret screw replacement(for stronger and longer-lasting turret rotation mech, can take more stress now)

It gets superstock elite ranges, which I am insanely proud of for this ancient thing. The firefly is a really good platform to work with, and is really reliable as the firing/rotation mech is amazing. Never jammed. Ever.

Lead free when heated to the right temperature and combined with rosin either externally or as rosin core solder melts with 0 issues and flows as good if not better then lead/tin solder.

Rosin is used interchangeably with Flux in my experience

But even so, why would people go out of the way to mention the type of solder used AFTER the fact, or to specifically mention one kind to use for a build as if there is a functional difference? 

It implies some sort of performance difference in terms of conductivity, etc., which I fail to read anywhere

So for that "T" connection for the green wire at the far right, how would I go about doing that? I can't imagine shrink-tubing that normally... (and I do love my shrink tube on the rare occasion I do solder)

I know I'm not directly answering your question, but if you run out of juice from that battery pack you referenced in your previous thread, you must be having your flywheels constantly on or desire the ability to play for multiple days at a time without recharging...or your battery pack is really old and going bad.

 

To put things in perspective, I run a 6 cell NiMH AA battery pack (2000 mah) in my MTB Rhino'd Stryfe. After playing for about 4 hours, I barely used 15% of my capacity.

There is no need for a back up pack if your putting in a NiMH pack with enough power to run the rhinos at optimal RPM... unless your putting in a very small pack and know it's gonna be running dry on you in a day, I would not waste time on it

These are both valid points, and while my HvZ week does last 6 days, with both night and day missions each day, you both are probably right in assuming that it will not be fully used after 1 week. 

However, I am curious about my multi-power setup for both future builds and/or proof of the "backup battery switch" concept. So while those are both valid points, and I probably won't use this concept in this particular build after these inputs, I still would like comments from people with some electrical experience in regards as to if my drawn circuit is both possible and causes no issue between the 2 battery packs.

Edit: The reason this is so appealing is that I can see multiple uses for such a feature such as backup power in the middle of a game, low/high power modes, etc, and am curious to see whether or not it will work.

If I understand what your trying to do, you want to use the rocker switch to swap between power sources correct?

Basically, yes