FineDwarvenMods

Thank you for the feedback on modifying the triad. I got myself some stainless steel and some PVC barrel and will glue 3 of them together (triad configuration) and fit them as replacement for the original mega-barrel on a BigShock. I am counting on more plunger volume and less dead space (no AR system) to give it a little better performance. Will keep you updated on my progress...

 

How did you disable the smart AR? Drill it out?

You can use pliers, a drill, an exacto knife, or whatever you can think of that can fit in there, destroy the plastic piece, and leave the shell in tact.. The smart AR system is pretty simple once you get it out of the blaster and get a chance to look at it, you can learn how it functions just with your eyes.

In short, the easiest way to convert it from firing one shot to firing 3 is to take out the air restrictor pegs AND the orange cylinder they are part of. Underneath that orange cylinder is a tiny spring, just like other air restrictors. You just need to remove the orange piece and the spring, in any way you can, without damaging the shell of the Smart AR system itself, as the shell is what allows the air to flow to all 3 barrels. Do this same process for the other 2 barrels. After that all you have to do is reassemble it and the air pressure is sent to all 3 barrels instead of one at a time.

I hadn't thought of using the bigshock as a sort of ready-to-go upgraded jolt and converting it to shoot 3, although i'm not certain how much stronger the stock bigshock spring will be compared to the stock triad spring. Mega darts get greater range due to their weight and aerodynamics, so the big shock in reality is probably just... another jolt.... with the same spring and everything, but with a different barrel size. I'll have to try the same thing myself one day and compare the two.

Having personally done a Triad Shotgun modification myself last night, I can tell you right now the results are gimmicky but still promising and even useful, due to the incredibly small size of a Triad. I may do a writeup on it later, but it's frankly very simple and the only thing I did that others didn't was intentionally break the smart AR system and reinforce the spring with a spacer and a second spring (from a slingfire), making sure they both get to full compression. 

There is the issue of airflow, as people have mentioned, but opening up the air restrictors actually creates more space for air to be pushed out, due to the design of the Smart AR cage, sort of functioning as a slightly larger (at most 1.5x) air tank. I'm wondering if popping in some PETG would also help, although the triad barrels are already quite tight on koosh darts,to the point that it will refuse to fire the tightest dart in the barrel, giving you a salvo of 2. If you use kooshes, you have to specifically find 3 of identical width with no malfunctions in glue, etc. so they all fit in loosely.

In the end, I was able to get 3 darts shooting an average of 37 feet. Close range, small spread, and very good potential for use as an underbarrel shotgun due to the size and the fact that people use triads underbarrel anyways. I intentionally use elites and not koosh, due to the spread that elites can give you (we finally found a use for the things.)

It should be noted that the only tactical use I can see for this is shooting around corners or other situations where aiming isn't an option and you need an emergency shot, it's a one-shot underbarrel shotgun that takes a few seconds to reload, and only gives you 3 darts. I've been working on underbarrel shotgun options for a while and this is the simplest i've come across.

Thanks all, after doing more research and taking jwasko and duke's statements into account I think i've got a grasp on this stuff now, i'll use a 3s lipo and rhinos for this mod, and maybe look into afterburners as well in the far future to improve the range and velocity (but afterburners in a demolisher would be kinda tricky, it may need a barrel extension)

But, now I know that the IMRs I ordered also aren't completely useless, I can do a much cheaper mod using the IMRs and a 3-battery pack to boost flywheel performance without much effort. I wouldn't wanna do that for my current project, but maybe I could test it on my girlfriend's stryfe and see the performance difference, taking CCball's motor suggestion into account

Thanks again,

FDM

Rhinos will handle 4 IMR's just fine, but like you said capacity and amperage leave something to be desired.

There is no 130 motor currently produced that is spec'ed for 14+volts. Rhinos will be your best bet.

If you need a pair hit me up.

@CCBall

Guess again, those have an operating voltage of 12volts; the exact same operating voltage as Rhinos.

Can you overvolt them?Sure, just like you can overvolt Rhinos.

Should you be running ANY 130 motor on 4s? No.

Thanks Duke, this was intuitive and helped me understand the issue behind what I'm wanting. I'll probably just switch to a 3s and Rhinos, in that case. Are there any other recommendations you can give for getting high-velocity and accuracy on a flywheel blaster? A particular 3s battery that might do me better than another, etc.? I admittedly know very little about lipo batteries.

Also, will a snug barrel (Say.. 15/32" brass on stock elites/koosh darts) actually help with accuracy or range on a flywheel blaster, or does that really only apply to blasters physically pushing the dart out with air pressure (springers/air pumps)

edit: having seen many of your posts on the subject in past topics by doing a little googling, I guess your testing has gone to show that upgrading the barrel to brass will only decrease accuracy in flywheels. Simply put, is there ANY sort of barrel replacement I can do on a flyhweel blaster that will if not improve performance outright, at least be less messy and large of a hole as the normal nerf barrel and still not inhibit performance?

Actually, there is. That would be a Kysan 17114 motor. That is, according to 498 Nerf, who used them in a dual stage rapidstrike on IMR batteries. Also said by him is that the get around 30k rpm on 4s.

@Duke Wintermaul

At least they're a better option than motors that will get unnecessary dart slippage. They've been used before with good results, too.

Keeping these motors in mind, when compared to the Rhinos, is the torque on these really sufficiently increased to help with dart slippage? In the event that I want to do a sub-par mod and just plop in 3 IMR batteries (on a different blaster than the one i'm working on now), do you think this motor would be giving me better performance than the rhino with IMRs?

Thanks, again sorry for all the questions i'm just very new to this stuff and much of the terminology isn't intuitive to me yet.