The2ndBluesBro

Can't believe no one ever thought to use an extension spring. Nice work. 

Don't do it that way, RM2's suck. Use MTB Rhino motors if you don't want to cut the shell or MTB Hellcat motors if you don't mind. 

Glue domes. They shoot the farthest but they also hurt the most so many wars don't allow them. 

i know. iv been trying to cut a spring to the right length with a multitool. i highly recommend it. its great exercise of the fingers and patience. so far i dented the surface a bit, no change in performance
 
i live in seoul btw, the capital city. and HOW DO HARDWARE STORES NOT HAVE POWER TOOLS!!??!? 
 
i probably should buy stuff online but i really hate doing that. also im technically underaged so mom or dad has to buy stuff for me. and i dont have an allowance and getting a part time job is super extremely erotic in korea... and i fought with my mom recently. so..... not happening any time soon
 
XD 

Your situation is unfortunate, but not as unfortunate as the manner in which you discovered the filter for the word " E p I c "

We aren't going to shut down your IP. If you engage in any of the activity stated above, you are in violation of your ISP's terms of service and all we do is report you. Then your ISP will shut you down. Sometimes in the past admins have had to do it because trolls will keep making new accounts and it becomes impossible to stop them any other way aside from blocking new registrations altogether, which stops all legitimate people from joining as well. The rules here are perfectly reasonable; this site is an information resource first and a gathering place second. If you prefer a more personal approach the Facebook groups are great for that.

Gasoline and a Zippo.

 
1) String and super glue should work fine.  Even without glue, I'd thread it through small holes and tie the ends together.
2) McMaster-Carr is one of the better sources, though some hardware stores have selections.
3) Always silicone.  Lithium grease is better than most, but if you have the choice, use silicone.
4) Actually, no, hadn't bothered with that yet.

Lithium grease is great for lubricating the other internals and trigger, silicone is apparently better for plungers. TBH they're both fine and lithium is usually cheaper.

So, this is an ESLT that actually seals correctly?

It's nice to see improvements on an old design, but it seems like this revision has forsaken the original intent of the +bow (lookalike crossbow) and even the cool + cutout on the side (always thought that was a nice touch, you should incorporate that somewhere on this blaster, although maybe in a different way to avoid internal cuts). The catch and priming mechanism are the only things this has in common with the plusbow. Great design, though. It's definitely nice to see huge leaps of progress on old designs. Maybe name it something different, though, since it comes off as such.

There is no definitive answer because it depends on the power of the blaster you're using. With a Hydro Cannon or something, you could easily use a 7/0 fishing weighted dart and probably get ranges well beyond 400'. 

The strange thing is that i got 240 fps quite consistently with elite darts and a pvc barrel in which the darts could move freely on my 4B without the oprv plugged, how would you explain that? Now i am using cut down fvjs and it seems to be very accurate.
Edit: you were right, i thought the velocities were consistent but now i think about it they were varying in the precise way that you described. Still, cut down fvjs seem to be very accurate.

Elite darts are lighter and so will go faster but spiral out of control quickly and depending on how tight the barrel is will split open. Check out zaurko's video on how people fake fps claims using blanks (pieces of FBR with no weights, the lightest thing you can fire) if you want some more explanation of this. I believe range and accuracy are better indicators of a blaster's performance because of this.

I'm guessing you've already posted this there, but http://britnerf.co.u...onent=indexpage

What's the difference?

Ultrafires don't have enough current, and they are very unstable (and can explode or start a fire) since you have to use unprotected ones or the circuit won't even start. IMRs are much safer and better overall.

 
That's because it's so routine as not to be particularly memorable.  Someone bleeds from a dart impact at over a third of events I'm at where they are allowed.

I meant seriously injured, basically a justification for banning them. A couple bleeding welts are just part of the nerf experience IMO.

I propose "Bullseyes" as the name for these cut down darts, since it sounds equal parts jargon and the original ACCurate name, while also being a play on words with the accuracy thing. It will make it easy to distinguish the full length ones from these since these are more than just cut-down streamlines, they are pretty much sili tips/silicone domes. Also, this is more activity in one topic than the darts and barrels forum has had as a whole in years.