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quertyman

Member Since 25 Jan 2012
Offline Last Active Oct 28 2019 03:01 AM

Topics I've Started

new style RainbowPump Writeup

08 September 2013 - 10:39 PM

I have made this write-up for people who are new to making homemades but are familiar with machining plastic and have power tools. This is an entry to the contest and definitely falls into the “plusbow” category. My goal is to make this write-up as easy and detailed as I possibly can.

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Credit goes to:
The rainbow clan for the original rainbow catch
Ryan McNumbers for the original rainbowpump
Nerfomania for his rainbowpump variant to which this is based off of
Phoenix66 for making a excellent pvc quartering jig writeup
Koree for the help with ideas for the paintball handles

Tools required:

Dremel with cutting disc,a carbide cutting bit, and a grinding bit
Drill (drill press if possible) with bits 7/64, 5/32, 1/8 and a countersink bit (all should be included in a drill bit kit)
Scroll saw with preferred blade (I have a 16 tooth per inch blade)
Tap wrench with 6-32 tap and 10-32 tap and ¼ 20 tap
Hack saw with miter box or anything that can cut PVC evenly (miter saw)
Architectural ruler (only because it center itself on the round PVC)
Sand paper (I have 100-600 grit)

Parts were all bought from McMaster except for the handles and tape and adhesives
mcmaster.com is a website with almost everything used for building homemades. You can find a part in mcmaster.com by searching for the part number in the search bar at the top left. Everything is a quantity of 1 or 1 foot unless stated otherwise.

9637k26: [k26] spring
4880k314: 1” to ½” PVC reducer
4880k44: 1.25” PVC tee
4880k54: 1.25” PVC end cap
49035k26: 4’ section of clear 1.25” pvc
9245k51: clear petg tube 2” OD, 1.75” ID, get 2’ of this
9245k53: clear petg tube 2.25” OD, 2” ID
9562k46: skirt seal
8663k15: 3/8” x 3/8” delrin bar
8574k281: ¼” thick polycarbonate sheet 6”x6”
96640A115: pack of 100 black 3/8” long flathead 6-32 machine screws
94035a529: precision hex socket shoulder screw 6-32 thread
93013a264: black aluminum ¼” spacer 6-32 thread x2

You will also need to purchase from a hardware store:
¼ 20 machine screw 1” length x2
10-32 machine screw 1” length x2
6-32 1.25” machine screw
6-32 3/4" machine screw x2
6-32 nut x3
silicone grease
Bob Long Single Trigger 45 Frame HANDLE

Magpul afg2 fore grip FOREGRIP

Picatinny rail RAIL

Do not get overwhelmed by all this stuff. It looks complicated but I will make sure to walk you through all of it. The price will be around 140$ or less.


Here is a broad overview of the parts you will need, I left out most of the hardware here and the slide grip.

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On with the write up.
First we will start with the body, measure out 26” of the clear 1.25” PVC and cut it with preferred tool. I used a hacksaw.

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Go and make yourself one of these.

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http://www.nerfrevol....php?f=9&t=5285 What this is is a square with a hole in it that will help you make exact quarters on your pvc. Mine is not the best but it works, I cut mine out with a scrollsaw and used cutting board for the material. If you want you could use the polycarbonate as the jig instead.
Put it on and mark your points with the jig. Make sure one is lined up with the letters of the pvc, it will help you later and will be the bottom of the blaster.

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Take your architectural ruler and line it up with the mark you made that is lined up with the label on the pvc. Take a sharpie and draw along the entire blaster along the PVC label.

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Now you can use the jig on the other side and mark all 4 points. Connect the points so you have 4 even lines going down the entire length of the PVC.


Mark 3 inches in on all 4 lines and make it a circle around the PVC.

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Shade in the top 2 portions of you 3 inch circle that you made. The top is the oposite side of the label of the pvc.

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Now bust out the dremel with a cutting disc and cut off all the shaded area.

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It will look very bad at first as shown here.

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All better! I acomplished this by using a dremel and knife to get the big stuff away then used 100-600 grit sandpaper to smoothen it out.

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Now that the body is starting to take shape, lets move on to the bushing. I used a dremel to grind down the hex edge that was on my bushing.

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Use some sandpaper to get the letters off the top and clean up the part you grinded down.

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Now wrap it in a fair amount of packing tape and cut off the excess.

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Keep cutting tape off until it will snugly fit inside the pvc. Once it does mark ¾” to 1” down the pvc on the 4 lines depending on the size of the bushing that you have. Drill all 4 holes through with a 7/64 bit and tap and countersink them. Secure the bushing in with 4 flathead 6-32 ⅜” machine screws.

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Rainbow Catch:

The rainbow catch was invented by the rainbow clan and is extremely durable and reliable, you can see the original thread herehttp://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=20330 .

Now how to make one, mine is different and somewhat better because it is square and doesn’t allow the plunger rod to rotate out of place.

First you must download the templates for it. Here’s a link for the templates , courtesy of ryan mcnumbers. http://ryan201821.ne...owcatchrev2.doc
Glue those on with some super glue or the adhesive of your choice. First drill out 3 of the circles down the middle only, and 2 of them on the middle and the side marks (which from now on will be called the catch pieces). Then cut them out on a scroll saw. Ignore the hole saw setup in the pictures, as I did not use it. There are alternatives to a scroll saw (such as a hole saw) but my scroll saw was the best for me.
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Once all the circles are cut out tap the middle hole and chuck it on your drill press by using a long screw, a bolt, and 2 nylon spacers (optional) to protect the plastic.

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Once it is on the drill, use a combination of a dremel with the carbide bit, files, and sandpaper to file the pieces down to size. The two discs with three drilled holes must be filed down to a snug fit in the pvc. The other three must be filed so they are a loose fit in the pvc. Now take the two catch pieces and take the 3/8” bar and center it on the pieces, trace it out with a sharpie and cut it out on the scrollsaw. You may need to widen the inner hole in order to get the blade inside of the catch pieces. Do this to both pieces.

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IMG]http://i1288.photobu...zpsc9dac1ac.jpg[/IMG]

Also one of the two catch pieces will need the outer holes to be countersunk for your flathead screws (if that’s what you use) and widened so your screws can slide through easily. Now construct the catch by using 2 ¾ 6-32 screws and the two ¼ spacers. See here.

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Make the catch using the same methods of tracing out the 3/8” bar and cutting it out. You now have a complete rainbow catch.

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You may need to Dremel the screw sticking out in order for the assembly to fit inside the pvc. You can see the ends sticking out here.

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Now for the plunger rod. Take a sharpie and make an x on the 3/8” bar (further on called the plunger rod). Drill a pilot hole and then widen it to 5/32 (only if you are using 10-32 machine screws.

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Tap that hole to 10-32 and assemble the plunger head with a polycarbonate disc sandwich with the skirt seal in between and held down with a 1” 10-32 machine screw.

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Slide that plunger down the tube all the way down to the bushing followed by a spring. Use silicone grease to make the skirt seal slide smoothly. I use ace brand grease.

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slide the catch assembly down the the spring. Drill where you want the trigger screw and catch to be and tighten it down with a spacer.

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Drill into the front part of the catch and tap and countersink so it is secured into the blaster. I secured my catch with 3 screws.

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Put a small spring on the catch screw so the catch is being pulled down. This will complete the function of the catch.
Once the rainbow catch is positioned, mark slots that are 7”-7.5” right behind the catch. Drill out the ends and connect the lines to make your marks. Cut it out with a cutting bit.
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Use the carbide bit to widen it and clean it up.
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maximizer modification

09 February 2013 - 04:18 PM

I noticed that there is not even one writeup on the maximizer. This is probably because of how rare they are. I decided that I would be the first.

Tools:
flathead screwdriver

Materials
E-tape
pipe+bushing combo (think plusbow)
bolts to hold bushing and spring inside pipe
goop



First start with your stock maximizer. I expect that your front part is totally broken off and is being held on with the spring
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You need to get the orange cap off. there are tabs that need to be pushed in with a screwdriver.
Before (sorry for the bad pic)
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After
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Next you need to push the metal pin holding the spring out. The whole front part will come off.
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Next you need to make a replacement front end. So tape, goop and secure your bushing in with screws. Next drill below it and put a thick bolt through. You will need to cut your pipe to match the original front part.Posted Image

Now all that is left it to do is get the spring through the bolt (hardest part). And hot glue and tape the replaced front part on.
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And you're done!

EDIT:

Now how to actually open it!

First you need to get the two purple parts off. I used a variety of flathead screwdrivers. Good luck and don't hurt anything. This thing is rare enough!
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Then take out the four screws on the side. The one on the back has a nut on the other side. I think the maximizer has a record for the least ammount of screws for it's size.
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Internals!
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The plunger head hits the end if this.
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Picture of the internals without the priming bar.
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The green piece moves when the green priming bar pushes it down. this allows the catch to be disengaged. If you want to disengage this lock just hot glue it in the down position. And that black bar is the most breakable part on the maximizer. There is not a very good reason to open it if nothing is broken. I opened mine to show how to do it here and I was interested in how it worked. And to disengage the trigger lock.



Questions? comments? flames? This is my first writeup. Hope I get a spot in the directory (hint hint).

range master problems

17 November 2012 - 01:17 AM

I recently bought a range master at target and it is not shooting good at all. I added 2 cpvc couplers for making a cpvc breech and it will only shoot like 10 feet. I am using a butyrate barrel. there is absolutely no air leaking from the coupler to tank seal and the barrel seal is basically
perfect. I pluged the oprv. I have a panther that has a e tape seal and it shoots sooo much harder than this range master. What confuses me is that when I put the dart down the coupler stub it will shoot like recon range. It is almost like the tank doesn't have enough volume in it. I have been going from 7 inch barrels to 2 inch barrels. Every time the same thing happens and it just kind of falls out of the barrel. I an pumping it up 7 to 8 times. It holds air just fine and gets harder to pump as usual to any air gun. I am not posting pics because I see no need for this. If someone wants me to show a pic just ask. Anyone got any advise?

Please delete this

03 September 2012 - 03:11 PM

My friend posted this to try to ban me please delete this very sorry.

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST BECAUSE HE DID SOMETHING STUPID. DON'T LET YOUR DICK FRIENDS ACCESS YOUR ACCOUNTS.


P.S. GET BETTER FRIENDS.

scroll saw blade fix!

23 August 2012 - 06:58 PM

I have recently just bought a scroll saw and am planning on making a plusbow! But it turns out that the scroll saw I bought has pin end blades. As most should know the pins don't fit in the 5/32 size pilot holes slug recommends. I have figured out an easy way to fix this.
I simply took my Dremal and sanded the pin down with my drum sanding bit just enough to fit through the pilot hole. problem fixed! Works the same way.