#26
Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:51 AM
[yell]SEX!!!!!!!![/yell]
-Bags
Don't call it a comeback, I never left.
#27
Posted 31 July 2006 - 01:19 AM
Ryan: you said you took out the peg? How does that affect loading? Do the darts go in smoothley? Is there more of a chance of a jam now the peg's gone?
How much does the peg itself restrict airflow (It would seem to me like the Nite Finder: the AR restricts a lot of air, and the peg itself doesn't do much. Is that true for the LS)?
Could you try loading it with some Stefans, since the peg is gone now?
I'm just curious if the peg is as essential as I'm making it out to be in my mind.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Ryan.
Sincereley,
Pat
The peg actually doesn't effect loading at all. It makes the range stlightly better and it hasn't jammed yet. I'd get rid of that though.
I don't know about stefans folks. My sterfans which are about 1.5" don't work. They get sideways and jam every shot. Maybe 3" stefans will work but with my experience, those darts don't get very good ranges.
I am not quite sure how we are going to do a barrel replacement because the dart is going to have to fit without much effort. It will be hard to get a perfect seal.
Carrtoon is right about the stock darts, they are super inaccurate.
Hope that helps.
#28
Posted 31 July 2006 - 03:01 AM
I don't know about stefans folks. My sterfans which are about 1.5" don't work. They get sideways and jam every shot. Maybe 3" stefans will work but with my experience, those darts don't get very good ranges.
I've found that i can get some decent power out of Stefan nanos.
Not sure about micros yet.
BTW, where can I get o-rings? The 'where to buy' thread doesn't b ring up much.
Edited by taiki, 31 July 2006 - 03:09 AM.
#29
Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:46 AM
Almost 100' with stock darts would mean 120'+ with a brass barrel and converted Tagger darts...
I have one question:
Did removing the restrictor increase the range significantly or is that awesome range all thanks to the spring and the o-ring?
I think I can answer that...Immediately upon getting home, I popped it open and drilled out the restrictors. You can see straight through the whole thing now.
Sadly, ranges stayed the same. However, I'd suspect you'd need to do both, as adding air pressure would probably be defeated by an intact restrictor.
But yes, the springs are necessary.
#30
Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:47 AM
I think you may have to mod the actual clip to be able to use stefans. I've been thinking about it and it sohuld be too hard. Carrtoon could definately figure it out.
#31
Posted 31 July 2006 - 09:17 AM
1. Is that the regular bbb spring or one of the replacement spring?
2. Did any of you guys manage to take out the charging handle once it got snapped in? If so any help would be appreciated.
#32
Posted 31 July 2006 - 09:28 AM
2 quick questions guys:
1. Is that the regular bbb spring or one of the replacement spring?
2. Did any of you guys manage to take out the charging handle once it got snapped in? If so any help would be appreciated.
1. Regular
2.Yes
Both of those questions were answered in at least one point in this topic, and numerous times in others as well. I don't want to come across as snappy, but both of those questions could have been answered with some reading, and maybe a bit of searching.
Sincereley,
Pat
#33
Posted 31 July 2006 - 09:51 AM
2 quick questions guys:
1. Is that the regular bbb spring or one of the replacement spring?
2. Did any of you guys manage to take out the charging handle once it got snapped in? If so any help would be appreciated.
1. Regular
2.Yes
Both of those questions were answered in at least one point in this topic, and numerous times in others as well. I don't want to come across as snappy, but both of those questions could have been answered with some reading, and maybe a bit of searching.
Sincereley,
Pat
Instead of lecturing me and trying to act as a moderator, it would have taken the same amount of time to answer my second question; so now go put your balls back in your mouth and shut up! I looked in more then one longshot topic and I still can't manage to take off the charging handle. So can somebody nicely explain to me how to remove the charging handle. Thanks and pardon my French.
#34
Posted 31 July 2006 - 10:18 AM
To get the charging handle off, I put one in a table clamp and pulled until it came off. Other people have used big flathead screwdrivers and pried them off. I'd sugguest try the second one first, and if that doesn't work then use the second method.
#35
Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:42 AM
#36
Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:44 AM
Also, I wasn't trying to act as a moderator: I was trying to save you from getting shot down by them. Maybe next time I'll let them do their job. I wasn't trying to be an ass to you: I'm sorry if it came across that way. I even said in my first post that I didn't mean to be offensive. I don't want this to turn into a flame war, so lets just stop now.
Sincereley,
Pat
#37
Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:45 AM
#38
Posted 31 July 2006 - 03:40 PM
-Butt
This contest may have some flaws, as people can simply be a deuschbag over the internet. By Lying.
A war-like setting/invitational would be better...
#39
Posted 31 July 2006 - 03:49 PM
Whats all this talk of having to mod the clip to use stefans? It is not so at all. I did the restrictor mod added a bbb spring and loaded some stefans and they shoot abosolutley fine.
-Butt
How long are your stefans and what weights did you use in them?
#40
Posted 31 July 2006 - 04:00 PM
Did you take out the Post? By Stefans do you mean the tradtional FBR Stefans, or the Converted Dart Tag Stefans (CDTS's)? How long are your stefans? Because from what I've heard, in order for them to work well in the Longshot, they'd have to be as long as stock micros, which is almost an inch longer than the 'average' stefan.
Any info would be appreciated.
Sincereley,
Pat
#41
Posted 31 July 2006 - 04:11 PM
Because from what I've heard, in order for them to work well in the Longshot, they'd have to be as long as stock micros, which is almost an inch longer than the 'average' stefan.
That is exactly right. I used my small 2" stefans...They don't work at all. They jam very easily. I'm thinking they would have to be 3" at least.
#42
Posted 31 July 2006 - 06:40 PM
Anyways, all my crappy stefans are between 2 and 7/8 inches long and 3 inches long. Depending on how much the hot glue melted the tip down.
I loaded them into an unmodified clip, and fired them from my modded longshot. The modding was simple; remove air restrictors and peg, and I added a moderately weak spring.
They make it about 30-35'. I use a single size "B" fishing weight, but it's one of those annoying removable ones so it has little flanges so it can be taken off the fishing line. Don't know if that affects it.
The stock darts make it over 50', I'd estimate about 55, maybe 60 feet judging by how they bounce off the door at the end of the hall. However, as other people have mentioned, the stock darts have lousy accuracy.
All shots were made flat, with the front gun attached.
#43
Posted 31 July 2006 - 07:36 PM
Because from what I've heard, in order for them to work well in the Longshot, they'd have to be as long as stock micros, which is almost an inch longer than the 'average' stefan.
That is exactly right. I used my small 2" stefans...They don't work at all. They jam very easily. I'm thinking they would have to be 3" at least.
Converted tagger darts are probably your best bet. I'm assuming those would work, thought I don't think anyone has tested it.
Edited by AssassinNF, 31 July 2006 - 07:41 PM.
Probably dead by now, or something.
#44
Posted 01 August 2006 - 02:15 AM
On another note, the Longshot is one of the most intimidating souding weapons I've encountered recently once the restrictor has been removed.
Edited by Cmdrmack, 01 August 2006 - 02:16 AM.
#45
Posted 01 August 2006 - 08:37 AM
Edited by AODL, 01 August 2006 - 09:13 AM.
I don't really undestand why General Cole is making articles of clothing with my name on it. First it frightened me, but after a few hours I got over it. It seems obvious that General Cole is hoping to have sex with me.
#46
Posted 01 August 2006 - 09:41 AM
Do the CDTS's fire any more accurately than the stock darts?
Tee hee! I made an acronym that everyone's started using! Yeah!
Anyway, yes, they do. They generally have heavier weights (Though that's up to whoever makes them), and they're more aerodynamic because they don't have that little hole on the front.
How do you make CDTS's? Is that what Carrtoon meantioned earlier, about ripping off the rubber collar and velcro, adding 3 bb's and hot glue?
Yes, they're what Carrtoon mentioned earlier. You just take a stock dart, carefully peel back the collar, put a dab of hot-glue in the hole, put your weight(s) in, and cover with a dome of hot-glue.
Converted tagger darts are probably your best bet. I'm assuming those would work, thought I don't think anyone has tested it.
Carrtoon mentioned using them, but I don't think that he range tested them yet... But yes, they do work. Someone in another thread stated that CTDS's did work in the Longshot.
Sincereley,
Pat
#47
Posted 01 August 2006 - 11:34 AM
I guess folks have been doing this with real gun clips for quite awhile.
Excellent work Carrtoon. I'll be performing the mod myself very soon. I'm thrilled you jumped on this so early, :K)
#48
Posted 02 August 2006 - 04:06 AM
Well, maybe not full speed, but fast enough to keep up anyway...
It seems like glueing/screwing two clips together would just make the clip more awkward, and could possibly result in losing darts from the one pointing downward.
Pat,
Would the heavier weights on the CDTS's fix the "fishtailing" problem that I, and presumably others, have been having? I've talked with a few friends who I thought would know better than I and have gotten mixed thoughts, some say more weight at the front, others say more at the back.
#49
Posted 02 August 2006 - 09:57 AM
As for your fishtailing, heavier darts may help, but wait until someone has barrel modded this sucker, I think that would help the fish taling more than heavier darts.
#50
Posted 02 August 2006 - 10:42 AM
Physics Time! The fishtailing that you notice is the result of a stable front-point, on the dart, combined with an unstable and irregularly shaped length trailing behind it.Would the heavier weights on the CDTS's fix the "fishtailing" problem that I, and presumably others, have been having? I've talked with a few friends who I thought would know better than I and have gotten mixed thoughts, some say more weight at the front, others say more at the back.
Basically, the weighted front-end of the dart wants to remain in a single projected line, due to a strong moment of inertia. However, the length of foam behind it doesn't have the mass to affect a suitably strong inertia. As such, the passage of air over the foam causes the body of the dart to spin and move. Since the front end of the dart is set into a ballistic path, the weighted front-point acts as a fulcrum for the lever that the rest of the dart has become. The tail of the dart then flails as far as it can from the fulcrum point until the forces acting upon it change and cause it to move in another direction.
And that's fishtailing!
Adding more weight to the front of the dart won't help you; in fact, it will probably only make the problem worse. What you need to do is to attempt to distribute the total weight of the dart more gradually throughout the whole of its volume. Try adding a little bit of weight to the middle of the dart.
DEATH
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