
Boltsniper Scar-n Rifle Bs-8
#51
Posted 20 March 2006 - 06:42 AM
thank you for that response.
I did not originally read about the grinding of the dummy round. That would explain a fair amount of my odd results.
Yes, I am familiar with the .50 Beowulf chambering of the AR-15, and was indeed wondering if you had simply done what they ahd done to accomodate the larger shells there.
Again, thanks for the info.
Sincereley,
Pat
#52
Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:10 AM
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#53
Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:40 AM
Maverick Master, on Mar 20 2006, 07:10 AM, said:
If you bothered to look at the picture, you'd see that he has a rear collar and a large front collar on his shells.Bolt on the shells do you still have the ring on the end and in the middle like on the FAR shells.
Not in the game anymore, but it was great while it lasted. Thanks for the great years of fun, NH!
--
Resident "Spawn of Talio"
#54
Posted 20 March 2006 - 02:37 PM

#56
Posted 20 March 2006 - 03:20 PM
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#57
Posted 20 March 2006 - 04:06 PM
What were all the different sizes of brass that you used in the construction of this gun?
#58
Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:02 PM
I am sorry to have to ask another question.
But, I was wondering, where does the operating rod physically attach? Does it attach to the cam pin?
It looks far shorter than I imagined it would be from the descriptions of the internals (I finally was able to look at the pictures, since my computer was refusing to load them since yesterday).
Another (Sorry) question: if the magazine well is made from molded lexan (I believe you said lexan), how does the magazine release work? Did you make a hole in the magazine well after the Rapid Prototyper made it? Or did the prototyper make all the necessary holes and slots the first time around?
Again, sorry for all the questions, but I'm eager to make sure I fully understand this carbine's workings.
In fact, I've been so eager that my clan unanimously voted for Nolan (Official Tinkerer and Tester) and I (Official Modder and Fabricator) to produce five BS-8 SCAR-N's in the next three months. We've been allocated $270 up-front for parts and tools, with $100 in reserve, should we need it.
I doubt we'll need any extra tools (We have quite a collection, Nolan and I) and I probably have most of the PVC and brass needed, but I am worried about the fabrication of the magazine well.
We may attempt to make a plaster cast of a real magazine well and then pour some hardening agent into the cast... I'm not sure how expensive that would be, or how a plaster casting would affect the rifle we cast it from, or even if it would work.
If you have any suggestions for the fabrication of a magazine well for relativley cheap, they would be greatly, greatly appreciated.
#59
Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:25 PM
Edit: Take a loot??

Edited by m15399, 20 March 2006 - 05:26 PM.
#60
Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:27 PM
{SF3G}pat 2nd Lt. said
(Official Tinkerer and Tester)...(Official Modder and Fabricator)
Sounds like me, only I don't mod too well, I just provide all the info and shit like that. So far, my (now 4 strong) clan has no idea how to mod anything worth a damn, excluding one. He has a way with copper which makes anyone within range writhe...
I have the fun job of making everything from scratch. I find that a good thing. For the price of a NF, I can make something capable of beyond SuperSoaker with a higher RoF. I'll post it once it's done. Everything is based on something already proven. It was in design before the SCAR, but has since been altered to be an anti-SCAR: the complete opposite of the SCAR-N. Well, I'm supposed to be modifying a pump right now...
For a magwell, just make a design based off of the AR15 lower, or make a simpler version based off of a H&K design. A bit easier to mass produce, no? You can't use AR15 mags with it, but you can still make your own or use a HK33 mag, if you can find any for less than $30 a piece...
#61
Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:36 PM
9/16"
17/32"
1/2"
15/32"
7/16"
I would stock up on 17/32" as that is what you will use the most. A foor of each other size should be plenty unless you plan on making over 30 shells or so.
The operating rod does not attach to the cam pin. It attches directly to the bolt carrier behind the cam pin. You can kind of see this in the "pump action detail" video. The cam pin is just a section of a nail and is inserted through the top of the receiver. The operating rod is then installed on top of the cam pin retaining it. I will try and get some more CAD images/animations and photos up to illustrate this better.
The mag well is not molded lexan. It is epoxy. The prototyper produced the part just as I had drawn it. I made accomodations for the standard AR mag release in my model and just installed those pieces. You can pick up the magazine catch from del-ton for $8 a set. They sell every piece of the AR15 separately. You can also pick up the spring from them for $4.
You may be thinking it was lexan because I mentioned lexan as a substitute. The AR mag well is just a rectangle with no curves or angles to worry about. It wouldn`t really be that hard to build a mag well out of wood or sheet polycarbonate. You could also probably include the mag release components pretty easily as well by just dirlling the holes in the correct places and grinding a little with a dremel.
I can and probably will provide a detail drawing of my magwell that you can pull dimensions off of etc.


#62
Posted 20 March 2006 - 05:39 PM

#63
Posted 20 March 2006 - 06:37 PM
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#64
Posted 20 March 2006 - 06:54 PM
From my experience CPVC is a really tight fit for 1/2" FBR. Probably too tight for a spring gun with more than a pistol length barrel. Depending on your setup you may want to use brass as a barrel material or something a little looser than CPVC.
#65
Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:20 PM
Yes, I'm the Cliff Claven of the Internet.
#66
Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:44 PM
#67
Posted 20 March 2006 - 07:56 PM
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#68
Posted 20 March 2006 - 08:56 PM
The shells are awesome, and I like the way that it is capable of holding 11 shells instead of only 5 with the FAR. The pump action is an amazing improvement over the FAR, and so is the rotating bolt. The FAR was amazing, and I thought it couldn't get any better until you made this. Great Job, Bolt. Now excuse me while I put my jaw back in place.
I wish my computer would let me see the videos...
Probably dead by now, or something.
#69
Posted 20 March 2006 - 10:03 PM
Maverick Master, on Mar 20 2006, 04:56 PM, said:
PETG round hollow rod has completely different inner diameters and trying to make boltsniper's design out of PETG would involve either a complete redesign of the measurements, or custom lathing the inner diameters of EVERY PETG piece to get it's dimensions to match the PVC parts used in this design.Ok thanks for that i will look into brass. Also i have some PETG will that work because it dosn't seem that tight.
For dimensional comparison you can look up the different pipe sizes to get their inner and outer diameters by poking around at http://www.mcmaster.com
Edited by CaptainSlug, 20 March 2006 - 10:05 PM.
#70
Posted 21 March 2006 - 07:01 AM
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#71
Posted 21 March 2006 - 04:39 PM
I truly am sorry to have to ask all of these questions, and I thank you for your patience and civility with me.
Nolan and I would like to humbly request the dimensions of the trigger plate. Neither of us are very proficient with metal-working, as there generally is very little need for such skills in Nerf modification. Therefore, we would like to request the material, dimensions, and if possible, techniques used in the making of the trigger plate.
It probably is trivial enough that we could figure it out through trial and error, but Nolan and I are the kind of people who like to use per-existing information whenever possible. Also, our lack of experience working with metal and our fairly short time-frame encourage us even more to poke and probe for every bit of information we can scrounge.
We truly are sorry for inconveniencing you with all these questions. We are also very greatful for the well-thought-out, thorough, and timely responses on your part.
Again, thank you for your aid in our endeavour to produce what very well may be the finest Nerf blaster created to date.
Sincerely,
Pat & Nolan
#73
Posted 21 March 2006 - 08:50 PM
1. Can you make a cool program showing how it all works like you did with the FAR. Like your desing.
2. Also this may sound like a stupid question but how strong of sprong should I use for a clip that is a the size ofcasset tape?
Thanks for all the help and insperation.

- Mav Master
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LordofTheRings434
"In a sense, what I'm saying is that you shouldn't waste your time handling your balls. Go for the foamy rods instead."
#74
Posted 21 March 2006 - 11:15 PM
Just as in the GNS, the trigger plate is cut from 1/16" aluminum. I cut it from 1" wide flat. You can pick up the aluminum stock at any hardware store for a few dollars. I will try and get dimenions of the plate up .
#75
Posted 22 March 2006 - 12:35 AM
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