167 replies to this topic

[boltsniper]

you'd just have to move it forward and use the same mechanism that bolt used in the FAR

I`ll have to look into what he did on that...

Most drum magazine use a spoked wheel that is spring loaded pushing a follower that rides in a spiral track. It would be pretty hard to build one out of homemade materials, but it could probably be done. It would probably be too big and bulky to justify the added number of rounds available. Someone should try to build one. It would be pretty cool.

[SKIZ]

Hey bolt
I have looked on the forums and in the homemade section of the site and i cannot find the write up for this. I can find the Excel picture you have put in this topic but was wondering if you have a writeup for it yet. Sorry if thier is im not being lazy i did look!

OFFTOPIC:
Have you ever considered making a air tanked gattling gun. I have LOTS of ideas and have slowly started making one but im hoping i can make you spark an interest in it because going off what i have seen you could probally make one F*^%ing mad weapon if you tried. Also you could probally make something like the FAR semi-auto. I dont no if this would work but you could somehow link up a motor to the bolt and the plunger so when you fire a round off it will trigger the motor to pull the bolt back and then turn off and let the spring conected to the bolt pull it back into firing position.

[Meaker VI]

I was thinking that you could put the clip in front of the handle, like on a Socom. And then you could go with the clip style used in the sawtooth, where the clip actually moves through the gun as the bullets are fired. It'd be like using multiple barrels and having them cycle upwards as you charged the gun. Might need some gears for that to work...

And as I was lurking about waiting to be approved, I was also thinking about Bolt's trigger mechanism and the ones I've seen in airsoft guns. The ones in airsoft guns are much simpler, they have the trigger with the axis of rotation in the middle, and the rods that make it work are attached to the top. They go back to an "L" shaped peice that protrudes into the plunger to stop it. You pull the trigger, and the L goes down, making it fire. I'll work on a picture.

[boltsniper]

Writeup is still in the works. Free time has become more scarce lately. It will get done and posted eventually.

Meaker, I`m not sure which gun of mine you are referring to. The FCG in the FAR is almost exactly like what wold find in a airsoft springer. Just like you described. The GNS uses a simple wedge like any springer Nerf gun. I don't see how the linkage setup is simpler than a linear wedge.

[Meaker VI]

The one in the FAR pushes a crank to move the pin, what I am suggesting is switching the rod so that it is attached at the top of the trigger (where the trigger is attached to the gun now) and similarly moving the attaching point to where the rod was, and then doing away with the crank/pin thing. You would then replace the crank with another one, with 2 holes in it, the bottom one being attached to your trigger rod and the top attaching the crank to th gun. The other part of the crank to make an "L" shape (that is really kind of upsidedown and backwords) would stick out into the plunger assembly at an angle. That way, when you pull the trigger it pulls the bottom of the crank which lowers the part sticking into the plunger and the plunger fires. As an added bonus, you don't need to bevel the plunger to get it to depress the trigger crank.

And I know that somwhere, you were also talking about how the spring buckled so you added the spring guide, but now the plunger is too heavy; on my airsoft guns anyway the spring guide is in the back of the gun and the plunger can pass over them. That might up your preformance.

I made a picture/diagram thing, thanks to help from The Infinite Shindig:

Edited by Meaker VI, 22 November 2005 - 04:17 PM.

[The Infinite Shindig]

Grinch's Guide to Image Posting
Spectre's Guide to Image Posting

Search next time. We're usually pretty good about providing you with the information you need.

[Meaker VI]

Now I've got a couple more questions/comments. I got PVC and stuff, but mine doesn't nest as well as yours seems to. I went to home depot and bought 1/2" CPVC and 1" 200 PSI PVC, and I had 1/2" SCH40 and 1" SCH40. I also bought #18 O-Rings, those seem a little large but will fit into the 1" 200 PSI stuff and only cause problems when streched over things.

I also got tension springs rather than compression springs (mostly because I do not want to walk into Bear Arms and ask if they have springs, those people have an M60 sitting on their desk and probably don't have time to deal with those kind of questions; beside that they were cheaper) and am planning to see if those work at all. I'm also going to attempt my above-posted trigger plan, since I have the ablility to do that.

[boltsniper]

I understand what you mean now. A tension system versus a compression system. I was extremely cramped for space for the FCG. About 3/8" to work with. My original design was more like you described with a tension rod connecting the trigger and catch. I abandoned it for two reasons: it was going to be tougher to fit in the constrained space, and it was going to be more complex to fabricate. You are right though, with a tension system you don`t have to worry about buckling. I haven`t had any problems with it though since I added the inhibitors. I never saw beveling the plunger as being that big of a deal.

The 1" thin wall rides in 1/1/4" PVC quite nice. All the other sizes require adjustment with electrical tape to fit snugly.

Good luck with your project.

since I have the ablility to do that.

How so?

Since your posts seem to refer more about your proposed FAResque homemade and not my pistol you may jsut want to start a new thread or post in the FAR thread.

[Meaker VI]

Well, I'm not really sure what I'm attempting to build yet, I don't think I want to attempt the FAR since it is fairly complex and my PVC doesn't seem to work as well as yours does. I do live on the other side of the country, from what I've gleaned, so that could have something to do with it.

I'm mostly going with the pistol and modifying it with what I've got, and that isn't going all that well. Probably because I'm being impatiant and using PVC cutters, but whatever. I've got tons of PVC and can afford to mill around a little bit.

My problems with the PVC are not so much that they are too small, as would require e-taping, but that the 1/2" CPVC is too big to fit in 1/2" SCH40. I have to bore it out, and I have to bore my barrels too since darts don't fit well in them.

And although my trigger setup is a tension system, I was referring to my springs, which are also tension. I'm thinking they might end up exposed...

[boltsniper]

Yeah you do have to bore out the 1/2" SCH40 to get the CPVC to fit. Wuite a bit actually. It's nothing a dremel can`t handle.

[Meaker VI]

That might work better than my drill press... It's incredibly dangerous to hold the PVC and drill press it at the same time (/kidding).

Alright, it's good to know that the PVC is actually correct, how do you go about boring it out with the dremmel? Just on the parts where it needs to be connected with a drum sanding bit?

And since I'm editing, I've now got a working, pull-action hand cannon. The thing is extremely dangerous to use and will probably hurt me in the near future, so I will be getting back to work on it to make a trigger/handle to make the thing less potentially deadly. I've gotten about 30' with it in pull-action mode though.

Edited by Meaker VI, 23 November 2005 - 06:35 PM.

[Enigma1313]

One word , Bolt: Amazing. Your Homemades are the most awesome i've seen in a long time. I would kill for one of these Grammaton Sidearms...if only i had the money to bid on one on eBay...and BTW, Equilibrium is one of the best movies ever.

[1313]

Thats really somthing. I cant wait to see your air powered homemade bullpup rifle. I am also working on a homemade which usis a cycling cylinder to regulate air, I am planning on using 1/2" cpvc for the shells. Thanks for posting your ideas, they really inspire some of us to get out and make a gun.

And enigma, whats up with the 1313 at the end of your name....

[flamebo388]

ETA on the write up? Also, could you check your Pms bolt, you haven't responded to my last two yet.

[Enigma1313]

Alright...so i got bored the other night and decided to start building my own GNS. Eventually, I'd like to build a pair so i can go totally cleric on someone, but for now, i'm working on just one.

I was out shopping for the stuff I need, and I was wondering a few things:

1. What's a good spring size to use?
AND
2. Where can i get this so called "Music Wire"

[NJNerfer]

music wire = hobby store. or thats what it said in the right up for the FAR which used the same stuff

[Deaths Avatar]

2. Where can i get this so called "Music Wire"

I figured this was some sort of regional term for the stuff, but I found it at ACE, next to the brass and other little metal stuff labeled as "music wire." I also found it again at Home Depot, so it is pretty standard stuff for the hardware store.

-DA

[SPU-Nerf]

Hello Bolt
We (guys on my floor at SPU) are going to try and make this gun (more than one!) and from all the info that you have posted in this thread I think we can do it, but if you had a parts dimensions list like you have for the FAR that would make this project much easier. Or if you had those kits that you were talking about we are very interested in buying them.

GO Falcons!