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X-bows

Re-release, or what?

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#51 Langley

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Posted 10 November 2004 - 07:22 PM

I was just busting your chops. It's not very often you already know the other person bidding on an item, and get to tell them how you feel about their bidding practices. I was just joking, though, I didn't think you were losing. (but I wish we could have figured out that you weren't willing to go that high before you bumped the price up from $30.) But why didn't you want to go that high? It's still marginally less than the price you can get the other available crossbows for.
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#52 texmustache

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Posted 10 November 2004 - 08:45 PM

Well, Cxwq, if you didn't notice, there is another set of 4 up for 100$...along with a set of 2 for 50 and 1 for 5$...Jesus, how many does she HAVE? And theres a buy it now for 45$...wow, a whole 5$ less.

Edited by texmustache, 10 November 2004 - 08:46 PM.

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#53 Moose Hunt

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 01:03 AM

Could anyone tell me where to find a great mod for an x-bow that's also safe because I only have 1 and I dont want to have to replace it.
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#54 FBB

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 01:49 AM

Dude check the one on the site or try this one Raggs X-Bow mod
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#55 Moose Hunt

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 02:05 AM

should i really take the barrel off though in lvl 4? dosent the barrel give it better accuracy. (btw im talking about the rags mod)
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#56 Suave

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 09:16 AM

should i really take the barrel off though in lvl 4? dosent the barrel give it better accuracy. (btw im talking about the rags mod)

He didn't "take the barrel off." It's a breach loading mod, so the barrel is removable for loading purposes. The picture he took just had the barrel removed. You take the barrel off to load the gun, then put it back on.
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#57 Moose Hunt

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 09:39 AM

well then it takes such a long time to load and the barrel might fall off when u run.

Edited by Moose Hunt, 11 November 2004 - 09:40 AM.

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#58 Airsoft999

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 09:47 AM

:(
If you keep the barrel on, you'll need a ramrod to shove the dart all the way down. This actually INCREASES the reload time. And it won't fall out if you shove the barrel in the coupler.
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#59 Moose Hunt

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 10:05 AM

is the rags mod the best availible?
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#60 Airsoft999

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 10:18 AM

First, what ammo are you using?
If stock micros or mega stefans, use Rag's mod.
If you are using micro stefans, use Ray's mod.
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#61 Moose Hunt

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 10:53 AM

Which would better if the darts werent an issue. i have lots of the darts you mentioned so which one preforms better?
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#62 Airsoft999

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 10:58 AM

Micro Stefans. Own.
I've heard that trimmed and weighted stock micros also work great.
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#63 FBB

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 12:19 PM

It doesn't really matter which mod you do, because if you're using micros just use the barrel it says in the mod and if you're using megas jus slap on a 10 inch PVC barrel.
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#64 ItalionStallion

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 12:30 PM

Well yesterday i callled all the KB toys store in the Kansas City Metro area. Unfortunatley none of them have it and half of them dont even have Nerf guns.

So you say Big Lots has them? Or am i reading that wrong..
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#65 SofaKing

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 02:35 PM

Can someone with one of these new xbows take a clear picture of the front and back of the box and post it or email it to me please? The higher the resolution the better.

Here's some pics- Front,Back,and one un-PS
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#66 moosenukem

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 05:22 PM

Can someone with one of these new xbows take a clear picture of the front and back of the box and post it or email it to me please? The higher the resolution the better.

Here's some pics- Front,Back,and one un-PS

HAHA, I like Cx's head in the first picture. ^_^
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#67 THIRST

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 05:30 PM

Actually, Cx isnt a skeleton...Sofa, we were looking for dates on the box, but its already been comfirmed nerf has nothing to with them.

THIRST

Edited by THIRST, 11 November 2004 - 05:30 PM.

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ko

#68 cxwq

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Posted 11 November 2004 - 11:32 PM

Here's some pics- Front,Back,and one un-PS

Many thanks. Just seeing the logos and other guns is sufficient to guarantee that it's not a re-release. Date not required.

It blows my mind that, at the very least, around a hundred nib xbows just materialized out of thin air.
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#69 Moose Hunt

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 12:40 AM

I am still trying to decide how to mod my x-bow. I really like rags' but it just seems so impractical to remove the barrel every time you want to reload. Any suggestions?
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#70 Lemmypoo

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 01:30 AM

I am still trying to decide how to mod my x-bow. I really like rags' but it just seems so impractical to remove the barrel every time you want to reload. Any suggestions?

Again, the ramrod vs. breach debate. The Breach is the bettter way to go for a springer. But do not fret somebody (AHEM!) will come by and make a breach that is fixed to the cyllinder with a slide.

I called up my nearest Big Lots and they are out of nerf guns entirely, must have heard the lady over the phone ask everybody and their dog. I am going to a larger city (Salt Lake City) than my little college town to see if there are any crossbows in biglots or a known toy liquidator. If I see any, I'll probably nab 'em, but expect to see a dramatic price difference, the way I figure it, crossbows will bottom out pretty quick here, I may as well be the one to sink everybody's profit margin first.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...item=5933867547

I mean shit, look at that auction, looks like a scrap book threw up in there.
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#71 Ash

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 11:47 AM

Ragg's mod is basically a crappy version of what we have been doing for years now.

A few tips:

Instead of cutting out sheet metal to enforce the area where the spring rests on the crossbow inner casing, shoot a pair of thick screws through the area so that the plastic posts rest against the screws. This gives more strength to the mod and it also lessens your chance of flexing.

I didn't notice any real reinforcement to the plunger... get some thin steel rods and mount them on either side of the plunger. Also, very important and often overlooked, you should reinforce the the plastic end of the plunger that the rubber piece sits on. The actual rubber air plunger is the piece I am referring to, all the way on the end of the plunger. I shot a screw through the plunger (after reinforced of course) to give the spring something to rest against on that end of the plunger. This of course reduces the risk of breakage.

Those are the two big things, the rest is pretty simple.

One more tip, if you want to do the "breach loading" idea. I used the stock barrel and fitted a piece of PVC piping on the end of it. Inside this length of PVC is a barrel that came from a chainlink from one of the chain fed guns (Razorbeast and Chainblazer). I cut off the bottom of the chain barrel and shoved it inside the pvc. The PVC then acts as a sleeve that the stock barrel can fit inside and the chainlink can rest against the stock barrel securely. This of course requires you to remove the "extension" to load it, but the reload time is rather short.
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#72 Langley

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 12:12 PM

Do you do anything to reinforce the shell where the screws go through? Otherwise I would think that the screws that the spring sits against would just widen the holes in the shell they go through over time.
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#73 cxwq

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 12:35 PM

Use bolts/nuts with washers to distribute the load over the outside of the shell. Alternately, get two pieces of scrap metal, drill two holes in each, rough, and epoxy/goop to the outside of the shell. Permanent washers!
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#74 Black Wrath

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 01:17 PM

Again, the ramrod vs. breach debate. The Breach is the bettter way to go for a springer. But do not fret somebody (AHEM!) will come by and make a breach that is fixed to the cyllinder with a slide.

I've already done this. Twice. Once on my SM5k, and once on my other SM5k. It's not hard, and it's not going to be new once you do it either.

Posted Image

I don't know if you can see the breach/bolt too well in that picture, but I'll be sure to take some more if you cannot see it. Just let me know.
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#75 moosenukem

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Posted 12 November 2004 - 02:24 PM

....shoot a pair of thick screws through the area so that the plastic posts rest against the screws.... 

...you should reinforce the the plastic end of the plunger that the rubber piece sits on.  The actual rubber air plunger is the piece I am referring to, all the way on the end of the plunger.  I shot a screw through the plunger (after reinforced of course) to give the spring something to rest against on that end of the plunger...

Would you be able to give me a picture of that, or maybe a paint diagram?
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