9 replies to this topic

[NerfBeginner16]

Hi I looked at the Mod Directory for Flipfury mods and the one you guys have is a lock removal, seal upgrade and dead space mod. But I wanted to know if someone could send me specific instructions or a video on how to take out the Air Restrictors on a Nerf Flipfury. 

 

Thanks, NB16

[Meaker VI]

You do not generally remove the AR from anything post-elite. The ARs are more effective and beneficial, so the FPS gain you make (usually ~5 to imperceptible) is not worth the lost protection it provides.

[NerfBeginner16]

Meaker First:The flipfury is not post elite it's zombie strike.

 

 

Second: I bought an orange mod works kit for the nerf flipfury and went through hell to install it. And it got me no performance boost so I emailed OMW and they said I had to move the air restrictors in order for the kit to work. Which to me sounded like a load of sh*t because I perpously paid for the kit to give me a performance boost without having to do this AR removal. But they say I need to do the AR removal to. So that's why i'm here I need a guide a video I need help!

 

 

Thanks, NerfBeginner16

[ToadBrews]

Meaker First:The flipfury is not post elite it's zombie strike.

 

Zombie strike is post elite. Learn what you're talking about before you assume people giving you advice are wrong.

[Meaker VI]

Frankly, you wont find a ton of content for the flipfury because it is

A- basically a strong arm

And B- easily broken.

If your kit requires you to remove the AR, youll need to remove the AR. You may also need better barrels to notice substantial improvement from a different spring- sometimes mere spring swaps are not magic blaster performance enhancers and you just get a dozen or so more FPS (which, without a chrony, is imperceptible).

[ToadBrews]

Look for mod videos for other blasters where the AR is removed. AR's are pretty consistent across blasters. If you learn how to remove them from any five random blasters you will know how to remove all of them.

[NerfBeginner16]

Thanks for the comments I will study up and see what I can do. Question does removing barrel posts help with air flow or fps? And if not what does it do?

Edited by NerfBeginner16, 03 February 2018 - 09:35 AM.

[Meaker VI]

Barrel posts prevent you using short darts and homemade darts like stefans or slugs, and in some cases you can remove them and do some other work to make a blaster rear-loading. If youre running manufactured full-length darts you can leave them in.

[ElliottW]

My personal experience has been that AR removals on the StrongArm and FlipFury are largely unnecessary. In fact, air restrictectomies on Elite and XD-Elite blasters often have a negative impact on performance, which is in direct conflict with advice the NIC has traditionally provided about removing air restrictors.

 

To unravel this mystery, you need to understand what the AR is actually doing. The key is the length of the AR posts. Not the dart post, the fingers on the AR itself. Typically there are three. The length of these fingers determine how long the AR remains open while the plunger descends down the plunger tube and the dart moves forward. The longer the posts, the more energy gets transferred into the barrel, and by extension to the dart.

 

Older N-Strike blasters typically have relatively short AR posts. As a result, a smaller amount of air is transferred into the barrel before the AR closes, often before the dart has exited the barrel. Translation: shorter range.  On newer blasters like Elite and XD-Elite, the AR posts are longer. This allows more air from the plunger tube to push the dart forward. As a result, you get better ranges and better velocities.

 

The second part in understanding this phenomenon is realizing that shortly after a dart has exited the barrel, the transfer of energy to the dart effectively stops.  For instance, you could have a blaster with a 9 foot plunger tube. But once a dart has exited the barrel, the remaining air and kinetic energy of the spring is lost. It just dissipates into the space behind the dart as it moves ever forward. For clarification, when I say "barrel" I mean the part of the cylinder/breech/chamber that has direct contact with the dart and is responsible for transferring kinetic energy to the dart itself. Faux barrels and Nerf barrel extensions be damned. That's a whole 'nother conversation.

 

As it turns out, when you remove the AR from older blasters, you allow more air from the plunger tube to push the dart out of the barrel. As a result, you see a dramatic increase in the performance.  But in newer blasters, the length of the AR posts is more closely tuned to the length of the barrel.  All of the air that can propel the dart forward is being released while the AR is still open. Effectively, the air restrictor is now functioning as a brake for the plunger, gently gliding it to rest at the bottom of the plunger tube after the dart has exited.

 

Hasbro's initial design for the Air Restrictor was to limit the performance of blasters.  But over time it has morphed into a way to extend the life of the blaster and improve performance. A subtle, but distinct difference. The folks who advocate for removing the AR on older yellow N-Strike blasters are correct. But the folks that say leave them intact on Elite/XD-Elite blasters are also correct. For entirely different reasons.

Edited by ElliottW, 04 February 2018 - 02:22 AM.

[meow121325]

My personal experience has been that AR removals on the StrongArm and FlipFury are largely unnecessary. In fact, air restrictectomies on Elite and XD-Elite blasters often have a negative impact on performance, which is in direct conflict with advice the NIC has traditionally provided about removing air restrictors.

 

To unravel this mystery, you need to understand what the AR is actually doing. The key is the length of the AR posts. Not the dart post, the fingers on the AR itself. Typically there are three. The length of these fingers determine how long the AR remains open while the plunger descends down the plunger tube and the dart moves forward. The longer the posts, the more energy gets transferred into the barrel, and by extension to the dart.

 

Older N-Strike blasters typically have relatively short AR posts. As a result, a smaller amount of air is transferred into the barrel before the AR closes, often before the dart has exited the barrel. Translation: shorter range.  On newer blasters like Elite and XD-Elite, the AR posts are longer. This allows more air from the plunger tube to push the dart forward. As a result, you get better ranges and better velocities.

 

The second part in understanding this phenomenon is realizing that shortly after a dart has exited the barrel, the transfer of energy to the dart effectively stops.  For instance, you could have a blaster with a 9 foot plunger tube. But once a dart has exited the barrel, the remaining air and kinetic energy of the spring is lost. It just dissipates into the space behind the dart as it moves ever forward. For clarification, when I say "barrel" I mean the part of the cylinder/breech/chamber that has direct contact with the dart and is responsible for transferring kinetic energy to the dart itself. Faux barrels and Nerf barrel extensions be damned. That's a whole 'nother conversation.

 

As it turns out, when you remove the AR from older blasters, you allow more air from the plunger tube to push the dart out of the barrel. As a result, you see a dramatic increase in the performance.  But in newer blasters, the length of the AR posts is more closely tuned to the length of the barrel.  All of the air that can propel the dart forward is being released while the AR is still open. Effectively, the air restrictor is now functioning as a brake for the plunger, gently gliding it to rest at the bottom of the plunger tube after the dart has exited.

 

Hasbro's initial design for the Air Restrictor was to limit the performance of blasters.  But over time it has morphed into a way to extend the life of the blaster and improve performance. A subtle, but distinct difference. The folks who advocate for removing the AR on older yellow N-Strike blasters are correct. But the folks that say leave them intact on Elite/XD-Elite blasters are also correct. For entirely different reasons.

the exception to this rule is the zombie strike double strike and other smart AR post elite blasters i modded my double strike and i removed the smart AR (pain the butt btw) then i corked the 2nd barrel and minimized the dead space and i got a great performance boost (note i only recommend a smart AR removal on blasters that are like the double strike capacity wise)

Edited by meow121325, 06 February 2018 - 11:59 AM.