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Stryfe voltage mod questions

Stryfe

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#1 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 02 July 2017 - 04:19 PM

Hello fellow nerfers!
I've recently finished my Springer primary (Longshot), and now hope to mod a stryfe. However, I'm a complete idiot when it comes to flywheel blasters, so I have some questions. I'm planning on running on 2 imr batteries, which would give me 7.4 volts. Would this be ok for the internals if I only bypass the thermistor and do nothing else? I can't do a rewrie since I don't own a soldering iron, and other tools. If I were to use 3 imr batteries (11.1 v) like blastaway.eu on YouTube, would this be okay for the internals (no rewrie, etc)?
Thanks!
Bubba
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#2 dangman4ever

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 01:33 AM

It would be ok for a day worth of games. But any longer than that and you're risking damage. I would only recommend using 2 IMRS on stock wiring if you're 100% set/sure/able to replace the internals when the stock wiring, switch, and motors give out. With a rewire, two IMRs is just fine. Don't use 3 IMRs without a rewire. 3 IMRs is still a bit of a risk even with a rewire but worthwhile risk if you're set/sure/able to replace the motors later when they burn out. 


Edited by dangman4ever, 03 July 2017 - 03:33 PM.

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#3 Maxman1x2

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 10:28 AM

I agree 2 IMRs should be fine and 3 IMRs might be pushing however, i have no idea if this will or whether it will break or stryfe but maybe if you want max voltage without burning out the motors maybe you could run 2 IMRs 1 regular Duracell and 1 dummy could possibly give you max voltage without blowing out your motors but take my word for it I have no idea if this would work.  


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#4 dangman4ever

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 03:31 PM

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I agree 2 IMRs should be fine and 3 IMRs might be pushing however, i have no idea if this will or whether it will break or stryfe but maybe if you want max voltage without burning out the motors maybe you could run 2 IMRs 1 regular Duracell and 1 dummy could possibly give you max voltage without blowing out your motors but take my word for it I have no idea if this would work.  

In general, you don't mix battery chemistries like that. You massively increase the risk of fire/burns that way. So two IMRs and two dummys or four duracells. Don't mix the two. 


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#5 scruffynerfherder

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 05:37 PM

If you put quality carbon brushes in your stock motors they will hold up better to Imr abuse. I've been considering doin carbon brushes and ball bearings in my stock stryfe motors to go with efest imr as opposed to aftermarket motors aand battery pack. Still unsure. But I know carbon brushes would help reliability with imr's
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#6 Maxman1x2

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 06:17 PM

In general, you don't mix battery chemistries like that. You massively increase the risk of fire/burns that way. So two IMRs and two dummys or four duracells. Don't mix the two. 

Thank you for clearing that up for me I've been curious about that for a long time!


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#7 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 06:21 PM

Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper. I know that they are no where near as good as imrs, but I can't spend a lot on batteries now... It looks like I will use two ultrafires and two dummy batteries (roughly 7.4 volts). I just have four more questions: 1. For bypassing the thermistor, the goal is to make the two wires touch, right? So I can either twist them together, or connect them with a wire right (e tape a wire in place)? 2. Would running 7.4 volts hurt the internals drastically? I don't want burnt wires or anything... Although, the motors will probably burn out eventually. 3. How long do my internals have before dying? 4. What fps should I expect with 7.4 volts?
Thanks!
Bubba
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#8 Ultrasonic2

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 06:28 PM

Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper. I know that they are no where near as good as imrs, but I can't spend a lot on batteries now... It looks like I will use two ultrafires and two dummy batteries (roughly 7.4 volts). I just have four more questions: 1. For bypassing the thermistor, the goal is to make the two wires touch, right? So I can either twist them together, or connect them with a wire right (e tape a wire in place)? 2. Would running 7.4 volts hurt the internals drastically? I don't want burnt wires or anything... Although, the motors will probably burn out eventually. 3. How long do my internals have before dying? 4. What fps should I expect with 7.4 volts?
Thanks!
Bubba

 

 

Here we go i tested the stock stryfe at different voltages...

 

http://nerfhaven.com...erent-voltages/

 

 

Also Ultrafire batteries tends to be FAKE, claiming massive capacity when i fact they are WAY worse that other realistic capacity batteries.  


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#9 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 06:36 PM

Thanks for the fps info. I've sorta run into a problem though. I just opened my stryfe to check what type of thermistor it had, and it was the square type. So, the twist method is a no go. What are now my options to bypass it? Would simply linking the two thin wires work? I could just run some wire across, then tape it down (making sure it connects the two), but I'm not sure if that'll work. Also, with ~7.4 volts, do I even need to bypass the thermistor?

Edited by Bubba Longshot, 03 July 2017 - 07:12 PM.

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#10 Ultrasonic2

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Posted 03 July 2017 - 07:15 PM

just cut it out and join the wires..


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#11 Meaker VI

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Posted 06 July 2017 - 08:01 PM

Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper.


They also aren't safe for use in our application- they're meant to run low-draw flashlights and not high-draw motors. Don't use them unless you don't mind your blaster possibly burning up.
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#12 dangman4ever

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 03:18 AM

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Instead of imr batteries, I've decided to go with ultrafires as they are much cheaper. I know that they are no where near as good as imrs, but I can't spend a lot on batteries now... It looks like I will use two ultrafires and two dummy batteries (roughly 7.4 volts). I just have four more questions: 1. For bypassing the thermistor, the goal is to make the two wires touch, right? So I can either twist them together, or connect them with a wire right (e tape a wire in place)? 2. Would running 7.4 volts hurt the internals drastically? I don't want burnt wires or anything... Although, the motors will probably burn out eventually. 3. How long do my internals have before dying? 4. What fps should I expect with 7.4 volts?
Thanks!
Bubba

If you're worried about cost of $10 shipped for 2 EFEST IMR batteries, that tells me that you can't afford to replace the internals of the Stryfe when they die. Which means you shouldn't be doing this mod in the first place. 


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#13 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 06:52 PM

If you're worried about cost of $10 shipped for 2 EFEST IMR batteries, that tells me that you can't afford to replace the internals of the Stryfe when they die. Which means you shouldn't be doing this mod in the first place.

Well first of all, I live in Canada where they don't sell efest imrs. So, that's not an option. The batteries here are $20 for 2 imrs, and $30 for a safe charger; that's $50 CAD. To put that in perspective, I could buy a tristrike or rampage with that money. Trust fires are $20 for 6 batteries and a charger. Also, I don't plan on replacing the internals when they die. Thrifting a stryfe isn't all that hard.
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#14 Meaker VI

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Posted 07 July 2017 - 08:51 PM

Trust fires are $20 for 6 batteries and a charger. Also, I don't plan on replacing the internals when they die. Thrifting a stryfe isn't all that hard.


Stock up on thrifted stryfes, then: Trustfires SHOULD NOT BE USED IN BLASTERS.
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#15 dangman4ever

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Posted 08 July 2017 - 02:13 AM

Well first of all, I live in Canada where they don't sell efest imrs. So, that's not an option. The batteries here are $20 for 2 imrs, and $30 for a safe charger; that's $50 CAD. To put that in perspective, I could buy a tristrike or rampage with that money. Trust fires are $20 for 6 batteries and a charger. Also, I don't plan on replacing the internals when they die. Thrifting a stryfe isn't all that hard.

You can't buy efest IMRs off eBay?:

http://www.ebay.com/...7.N36.S1.R1.TR2

 

Also, you don't need a $30 CAD charger when this $17 CAD does the job just fine:

https://www.amazon.c...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I use the exact same charger with then above EFEST batteries just fine. If my math is right, you're looking at $30 CAD for an IMR + charger setup. $10 CAD more than the Trustfires but significantly better in every single way possible. 

 

In my neck of the woods, it's quite hard to thrift Stryfes. Relatively easy to get replacement/upgrade parts though.


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#16 scruffynerfherder

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Posted 09 July 2017 - 11:15 AM

As much heat as I take for not wanting lipo, imr cells are far better than ____fire cells
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#17 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 12 July 2017 - 09:19 PM

Alright... First of all, I apologize for being a little bit of a jerk for not wanting to use IMR batteries. After some research, I have come to the conclusion that they are superior to trust fires. Now to my questions. How would these batteries and charger work in a stryfe?
LINK: Batteries https://www.amazon.c...GP4VTS94T8K38P5 Charger:https://www.amazon.c...ZS7XEG2QFJZX4YT
Also for connecting the thermistor, I just have to connect the two small wires with a conducting material right? That's because I have an Orange stryfe, in which the thermistor is square shaped (soldering is not an option...). Finally I've done some research, and with 7.4-8 volts, the stock motor/wiring/switches should be ok. Is that right?
Thanks all.
EDIT: I do realize that the batteries are 2 mm longer then normal due to the internal safety. My plan is to lay them diagonally in the battery tray, and make my own dummy batteries, so length won't be an issue. Has anyone tried protected imr batteries in a stryfe and are they better?

Edited by Bubba Longshot, 12 July 2017 - 10:46 PM.

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#18 dangman4ever

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 03:15 AM

The charger seems fine. But I've never tried protected IMR batteries so I can't vouch for them. Nor have I ever heard of Olight IMRs so I can't vouch for them either. I can only vouch for the eFest IMRs. They were recommended by Bobololo:

https://youtu.be/iufP-rrmYgI?t=286

 

I used IMRs with the stock Stryfe wiring for half a year without an issue. Then I did a rewire since I saw firsthand that IMRs can burn out stock Rayven switches. 


Edited by dangman4ever, 13 July 2017 - 03:17 AM.

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#19 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 13 July 2017 - 11:46 AM

New plan guys. A local hobby store has a soldering kit for 1/2 off, and I will get that. With that said I will up the voltage, and remove the electrical locks. With the soldering iron, a proper rewire and new motors could be in the near future. I've decided to get better batteries, LINK:https://www.amazon.c...words=Ebl 14500I'll be running two of these, and two homemade dummy batteries. However, these batteries appear to be INR batteries. Is that significant?

Edited by Bubba Longshot, 13 July 2017 - 11:51 AM.

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"The only thing that sucks about Nerf modification is the anxiety that something will break... That's why we reinforce a whole lot!" -Me

#20 dangman4ever

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 02:25 PM

INR should be ok. 


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#21 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 06:40 PM

Good news, I have rewired everything today with pvc insulated 18 gauge wire. The batteries are arriving on Monday, and the stryfe still works after the rewire. Thanks everyone for all the great information. One last question: if I run 3 imrs, then would the stock motors burn out? 

Thanks!


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"The only thing that sucks about Nerf modification is the anxiety that something will break... That's why we reinforce a whole lot!" -Me

#22 Meaker VI

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 09:15 AM

Good news, I have rewired everything today with pvc insulated 18 gauge wire. The batteries are arriving on Monday, and the stryfe still works after the rewire. Thanks everyone for all the great information. One last question: if I run 3 imrs, then would the stock motors burn out? 
Thanks!


I've used stock motors on a full 3s rig. They'll be fine until you can afford to replace them.
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#23 Bubba Longshot

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 09:19 PM

Running 2 would be better in the long run and would get 85-90fps so that's what I'm going to use. Would bridging the gap in the battery tray with 18 gauge wire be better/safer than with homemade dummy batteries (aluminum foil based)?
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"The only thing that sucks about Nerf modification is the anxiety that something will break... That's why we reinforce a whole lot!" -Me

#24 jwasko

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Posted 15 July 2017 - 10:03 PM

Running 2 would be better in the long run and would get 85-90fps so that's what I'm going to use. Would bridging the gap in the battery tray with 18 gauge wire be better/safer than with homemade dummy batteries (aluminum foil based)?

The homemade dummy batteries are probably a great way to start a fire.

The wire will be better especially if you solder the ends of the wire to make sure they don't come loose.


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#25 scruffynerfherder

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 12:59 AM

If your going to rewire the battery tray and plan to stick with imr's you should rewire to run 2s2p with 4 imr's., or just leave it be with imr and dummie batteries. Efest red v2 seems to be the best 14500 battery for this use.

It'd also be a pretty good idea to carbon brush (or "c-mod") the stock stryfe motors so thay can take more punishment.

I def plan on carbon brushing and imr-ing and rewiring my next stryfe to use as a "back up/side arm pistol" while my cuurrent stryfe take primary duty with "proper" batteries and motors.
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