8 replies to this topic

[J51Mustang]

Trying to choose a reasonably cheap fully auto dart blaster to mod. It will need to have lots of empty space as I am planning on moding whatever I find that's fully auto to a brushless setup, therefore I would need room for Lipo's, ESC's, wiring, room for slightly larger motors, somehow fit transmitter guts and a receiver cuz i can't code for life, etc. Debating between Hyperfire, Rapidstrike, and Buzz Bee Brute, but any other suggestions will be helpful!

Edited by J51Mustang, 24 November 2016 - 12:26 AM.

[Silly]

#StampedePure!

I would use rapidstrike for compact and power, hyperfire for lobbing a bucket of darts, and brute for idk because I don't have one.

[Quack]

 somehow fit transmitter guts and a receiver cuz i can't code for life, etc. 

 You can use a servo tester instead. It requires no coding you just need to hook it up to ESC's. The only downside is that now your trigger is a potentiometer and you need to twist to fire.

 

This is the one I have. It seems they don't make it anymore but it might fit better so you might want to find something similar.

Edited by Quack, 25 November 2016 - 01:31 PM.

[J51Mustang]

You can use a servo tester instead. It requires no coding you just need to hook it up to ESC's. The only downside is that now your trigger is a potentiometer and you need to twist to fire.
 
This is the one I have. It seems they don't make it anymore but it might fit better so you might want to find something similar.

I can use a servo tester and still use a button to spin up the motors. All I have to do is unsolder the potentiometer and extend its length by soldering it to wires, then replace the knob with a gear so that when I push the modified button it turns the potentiometer. I'll also have a spring in there somewhere so when I release the button the potentiometer rotates to its original position.

[Quack]

I can use a servo tester and still use a button to spin up the motors. All I have to do is unsolder the potentiometer and extend its length by soldering it to wires, then replace the knob with a gear so that when I push the modified button it turns the potentiometer. I'll also have a spring in there somewhere so when I release the button the potentiometer rotates to its original position.

If you are willing to do that, you could probably just switch the potentiometer for an spdt switch like the ones used in nerf blasters normally. I've never tried it, but it might work. Someone should be able to back me up (or not) on this.

Edited by Quack, 28 November 2016 - 08:50 PM.

[J51Mustang]

If you are willing to do that, you could probably just switch the potentiometer for an spdt switch like the ones used in nerf blasters normally. I've never tried it, but it might work. Someone should be able to back me up (or not) on this.

The only problem with this is that if I replace the potentiometer with a button, the ESC's have a saftey that will prevent the motors from spinning up. The ESC's need a pulse that tells them to increase the motor's rpm incrementally rather then a signal telling them to increase the motors to full rpm all of a sudden. For example, if you plug in a lipos to a power system of an rc plane or quadcopter etc, and you bind the transmitter and receiver with the throttle stick at a position besides zero throttle, the motors will not spin up to prevent any accidents. Sorry for my bad sentence structure and grammar as it's midnight and I'm tired.

[Quack]

The only problem with this is that if I replace the potentiometer with a button, the ESC's have a saftey that will prevent the motors from spinning up. The ESC's need a pulse that tells them to increase the motor's rpm incrementally rather then a signal telling them to increase the motors to full rpm all of a sudden. For example, if you plug in a lipos to a power system of an rc plane or quadcopter etc, and you bind the transmitter and receiver with the throttle stick at a position besides zero throttle, the motors will not spin up to prevent any accidents. Sorry for my bad sentence structure and grammar as it's midnight and I'm tired

I thought that the safety in ESC's was designed so that if the throttle was applied instantly, then the ESC would deliver power incrimentally (or as fast as it could). Either way, your original plan should work. You might even want to try a slide potentiometer to avoid the gearing situation

[J51Mustang]

I thought that the safety in ESC's was designed so that if the throttle was applied instantly, then the ESC would deliver power incrimentally (or as fast as it could). Either way, your original plan should work. You might even want to try a slide potentiometer to avoid the gearing situation

They make those?

[Kingbob]

I've modded a Rapidstrike and im working on a Hyperfire, so of the 2 i'd go the Hyperfire for the amount of stuff you want to cram into it. It has a good amount of empty space in the orange section at the front, and if you cut out the insides of the battery box, you'll get a huge chunk of room in the rear too.

 

Theres not a lot of empty space in a Rapidstrike at all.