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#26 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 03:49 PM

should I just experiment using these motors Solarbotics RM2 (high-power motor for GM2/3/8/9)


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#27 DjOnslaught

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 03:52 PM

I would use those and test with 3 standard AA batteries, if that's not enough try 4 of them. If none of that works then we can go from there. When I say standard AA I mean duracell/energizer etc.
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#28 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 03:54 PM

Ok, I will most likely buy them tonight

 


I heard when you get new motors you should break them in. what do you use, just a normal AA batt


Edited by Ice Nine, 06 January 2016 - 03:20 PM.

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#29 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 08 January 2016 - 05:42 PM

I got the motors, I have every thing hook up and it seems like it works really well. Rev up time is about the same but rapid fire is pretty good. I am going to range test it today and hopefully it shoots past 50 feet, Thats what the old motors shot.  


Edited by Nerfguy2002, 10 January 2016 - 10:18 AM.

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#30 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 03:26 PM

I range tested today with my new motors in my raven, this what the average was, 50 feet. Thats with 3 AA batts, so really no difference except the flywheels don't slow down much with rapid fire, witch is nice. Is it save to add 1 more batt


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#31 DjOnslaught

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 04:47 PM

You could try another battery, but I don't think it would make much difference in the long run.
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#32 jwasko

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 05:55 PM

What if you wired each motor to separate sets of batteries, which would allow them to get higher volts without actually overvolting them? I know given nerf battery compartments run the batteries in parallel which naturally generates lower volts then I'm series, if you used higher voltage batteris it might be doable, especially if you could keep the Rev trigger firing both motors.

I'm not sure what you are aiming for this idea, but let me clarify:

 

If you put 4 AA batteries in a stock nerf battery tray, the voltages are in series (I'm pretty sure) and therefore add (1.5+1.5+1.5+1.5=6volts). The motors are wired to the battery tray in parallel, so that they each receive the same voltage (6volts).

 

If you were to instead put in two separate battery trays each with two AA batteries, and then connect each motor to a separate battery tray, they would each receive 3 volts. Because the motors are receiving lower voltage, they would potentially last longer/not be overvolted...but they would also be spinning half as fast.

 

Now if you were to, say, replace those AAs with IMRs, then each battery tray would start providing 7.4volts to each motor and you'd be back to overvolting and you may burn out crappy motors.

 

Yes you could control both of those circuits with a single DPDT (double pull double throw) switch.

 

And yes you can run RM2s on four AA batteries. They may burn out eventually, but they'll last a while.


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#33 DjOnslaught

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 06:01 PM

I'm not sure what you are aiming for this idea, but let me clarify:
 
If you put 4 AA batteries in a stock nerf battery tray, the voltages are in series (I'm pretty sure) and therefore add (1.5+1.5+1.5+1.5=6volts). The motors are wired to the battery tray in parallel, so that they each receive the same voltage (6volts).
 
If you were to instead put in two separate battery trays each with two AA batteries, and then connect each motor to a separate battery tray, they would each receive 3 volts. Because the motors are receiving lower voltage, they would potentially last longer/not be overvolted...but they would also be spinning half as fast.
 
Now if you were to, say, replace those AAs with IMRs, then each battery tray would start providing 7.4volts to each motor and you'd be back to overvolting and you may burn out crappy motors.
 
Yes you could control both of those circuits with a single DPDT (double pull double throw) switch.
 
And yes you can run RM2s on four AA batteries. They may burn out eventually, but they'll last a while.


I was referring to exactly what you said as far as using the higher end batteries. You can always modify the stock try since from what I've seen each battery slot has a contact at each end... if you split it by modifying the terminal string to be split into 2 each, you could use the stook tray.
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#34 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 10:36 PM

I have it running on 4 AA rechargeable batts which seems to be fine, but if I loan the gun out I will take one of them out so their is just 3 batts. You know how those noobs are, they just always have to hold the rev trigger down all the time. Will using IRMs have a snappy start to the motors. If so were can I find them. I can find tustfires on Amazon but IRMs are different, right.


Edited by Nerfguy2002, 10 January 2016 - 10:40 PM.

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#35 Quack

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 10:46 PM

I have it running on 4 AA rechargeable batts which seems to be fine, but if I loan the gun out I will take one of them out so their is just 3 batts. You know how those noobs are, they just always have to hold the rev trigger down all the time. Will using IRMs have a snappy start to the motors. If so were can I find them. I can find tustfires on Amazon but IRMs are different, right.

Yes IMR's are different. They provide more current than trustfires and they won't be as strained due to pull of current from the motors. However, I'm pretty sure they typically have a lower mAh. Here are some.


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#36 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 10 January 2016 - 10:55 PM

Yes IMR's are different. They provide more current than trustfires and they won't be as strained due to pull of current from the motors. However, I'm pretty sure they typically have a lower mAh. Here are some.

I really don't know electronics. Whats the difference between the current and the mAh. Is the current how fast the electrcity travels, like I said I don't know much.


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#37 jwasko

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 08:43 AM

more mAh (more capacity)= longer run time betweeen charges.

more current = snappier

 

Also, you will probably burn these motors out quickly with such batteries.

 

Also, Quack, I doubt those are anything but Trustfire crap branded as "IMRs". The fact that they say "Lithium ion" (and that they are so cheap) is the tell.

 

These are actual IMR(lithium manganese) cells.


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#38 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 09:33 AM

Holy cow, 17 bucks for 2 of them, is their any thing else with high current.


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#39 jwasko

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 09:49 AM

Same thing, slightly cheaper.

http://www.myvaporst...-p/ef145007.htm

 

Mind you these are rechargeable (make sure you get the right charger!) so it's not like you'll be throwing them away afer a single use.

 

And again, using just two of these would probably toast your RM2 motors quickly. Using 3 or more will probably be an instant burnout

 

You could try:

 

 


 
1. Prechargead NiMH batteries and charger. The Duracell recommendation is a good one. I'm loyal to Eneloop, but practically speaking, Eneloop and Duracell precharged batteries are the same quality and performance: http://www.amazon.co...charged charger
These should be a drop in replacement for [...] alkaline batteries and despite the lower voltage, performance will be about the same. When the batteries run down, [...]place them in the included charger. If you like this setup, I would get a total of 8 AA NiMH batteries so you can have pretty much all day play while the 8 batteries charge at night.
 

 

But I don't know how well they'll work with RM2s, or if they will give you a snappier response.


Edited by jwasko, 11 January 2016 - 09:52 AM.

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#40 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 11 January 2016 - 12:23 PM

My dad owns a hardware store, so I will see if I can get my hands on these. If they don't work, I can use them in some thing else. 


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#41 Remzak

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 01:45 PM

I would just use the MTB Rhinos here: http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-001/

 

Best drop in 130 motors out there. 3 IMRs, A 10 cell NIMH, or a three cell lipo would give you almost 130 fps.


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#42 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 10:59 PM

5 Bucks for two. I know what motors I am going to use next time. What kinda of NIMH were you thinking. You will probably think I am a baby but, I just think those LIPOs are just to dangerous, and I just don't have that much money. 


Edited by Nerfguy2002, 12 January 2016 - 11:18 PM.

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#43 jwasko

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 10:39 AM

5 Bucks for two.


Umm...."Price for single Motor, adjust quantity to match needs."-the website.

 

If you want you can go for LiFePO4 packs (they're safer than LiPo), or just stick with NiMH. A 10-cell high discharge NiMH will cost a good bit, though.

 

(PS: I did previously mentiion Rhino motors here)


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#44 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 08:19 PM

This batterie Amazon.com: 12V Tenergy 2000mAh NiMH Battery Pack with Bare ... and those rhino motors would go great together, am I wrong?


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#45 jwasko

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Posted 14 January 2016 - 11:49 PM

This batterie Amazon.com: 12V Tenergy 2000mAh NiMH Battery Pack with Bare ... and those rhino motors would go great together, am I wrong?

It's the right voltage, but I'd be worried that it won't discharge enough current to keep up with the motors, especially since it is made with AA-size cells.


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#46 Nerfguy2002

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Posted 15 January 2016 - 01:13 PM

Would one of these work better 12V, - 16.8V NIMH Battery Packs - BatterySpace?


Edited by Nerfguy2002, 15 January 2016 - 01:14 PM.

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