16 replies to this topic

[CS- Tiff]

Ok, so the people who know me which you probably don't, know that i like shopping at dealextreme (dx.com). I found this: http://www.dx.com/p/...50#.VDW3FitdVVA which you can see is cheaper and does provide nice mAh opposed to a LiPo pack. Should i get this or a LiPo?

Edited by CS- Tiff, 10 October 2014 - 11:07 AM.

[Lunas]

Lipo that 9v is junk and dangerous it will not have very good current nor will it charge in typical 9v chargers safely no protection and i don't even know of a charger that does 9v li-ion batteries with a margin of safety.

You will need to buy a charger that supports li ion 9v they are around 25-50 as well and from the reviews they don't last very long

Edited by Lunas, 14 October 2014 - 05:08 AM.

[bex]

Another vote for Lipo. They are the best.

[CS- Tiff]

Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.

Edited by CS- Tiff, 10 October 2014 - 11:07 AM.

[TheBrickDad]

Lipos man, you can get some great (in my experience) Turnigy Nano-tech Lipos from Hobbyking's USA warehouse for anything from $4-10.

What motors are you using, stock? Perhaps someone more informed than me can chime in, but the importance of high voltage vs high discharge current may be an important factor depending on which motors you're using.

[Lunas]

'CS- Tiff', on 09 Oct 2014 - 9:02 PM, said:

Alright. I kind of wanted to use the li-ion because i was going to have a setup where when you have the gun normal, 9v. when you attach the overvolt stock (a demolisher stock with another 9v), it makes it 18v.

That's not hard to do with lipo either but the reason people can go to 18v on 9v batteries is the low current they can provide. The li-ion ones you found should be better than 9v alkaline or 9v NiMH pp3 packages but still not as good as IMR batteries. You will burn a motor on a lipo @ 18v vs running 2 9v in series. You will probably find running at 7.4 or 11.1v will out perform 18v with 9v. This gun has stryfe motors and they will burn over 14v on a lipo they hit good ranges with a 7.4-11.1v most people find stryfes hitting 100+fps on 7.4 lipos and above 12 they melt darts...

Edited by Lunas, 14 October 2014 - 05:11 AM.

[CS- Tiff]

I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB

[snakerbot]

The solarbotics RM2s are terrible motors for our purposes. The Mabuchi 180s on 11.1v from a battery with a good current supply will absolutely flatten any RM2 setup. If the battery you link to provides what it claims, you will have a very good setup. You could even drop down to 2s and still have plenty of oomph.

[Lunas]

'CS- Tiff', on 10 Oct 2014 - 12:28 AM, said:

I was going to put in some mabuchi fk180sh's in the gun then overvolt it but now I am wondering not sure. Would this outperform a solarbotics stryfe if it were in a demolisher? : http://www.banggood....kXdZhoC_pvw_wcB

the demolisher is more or less a stryfe with a built in missile launcher i have seen mod videos on it and the seal in the missile launcher sucks i also wonder that if one were to remove the grate on the launcher tube if a elite dart would fit down it to give a single shot air launch.

With the 180s you will need to cut holes in the shell to allow the back sides of the motors to stick out. If you don't want to do this you could get some 130 can race motors the hyper dash 2 but you would be going to 4.2v for them or you could get a pair of brushless motors and a controller you will need to put an on off switch in then.

Honestly the stock stryfe motors do good with a proper power source they could be better they could be alot worse...

Edited by Lunas, 09 October 2014 - 09:51 PM.

[Stardust]

I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.

Edited by Stardust, 10 October 2014 - 12:51 PM.

[Lunas]

'Stardust', on 10 Oct 2014 - 5:49 PM, said:

I currently am running my rewired stryfe on 4 1.5v lithium AA's (Energizer Advanced, great batteries compared to even some li-pos) with 2 extras in a power stock. I have Hyper Dash 2's in it and they run like magic. Hyper Dash 2's will outperform RM2's all day, and if you want even more RPM on the same voltage you could go up to Hyper Dash 3's on Tamiya.

Actually in my research I found the current lithium primary could provide was vastly inferior. While better than both alkaline and NiMH a lithium primary is still worse than a li-ion 14500 cell. Energizer's data sheet claims 3A continuous with 5A pulse 2 seconds at 5A 8 seconds off. A quality cell not *fire brand should do at least 3A continuous with 6th bursts and be rechargeable.

However the capacity of a lithium primary is greater than a li-ion (trustfire) but lithium primary are a one and done situation. And at 10 dollars per 4 pack you might as well invest in a lipo pack or imr rechargeables. (Capacity of energizer lithium tests out at 2480 mAh @ 3A)

Li-ion- generally quality cells can do 3A- 5A continuous
Li-mn/imr do about 10A continuous.
Lipo packs do 10 - 100A continuous dependant on features of the pack c rating * capacity =amperage

Edited by Lunas, 10 October 2014 - 04:58 PM.

[CS- Tiff]

Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

Edited by CS- Tiff, 13 October 2014 - 11:58 AM.

[Lunas]

'CS- Tiff', on 13 Oct 2014 - 12:25 PM, said:

Alright so i am debating whether to put in Plasma Dash 3's of Mabuchi FK180SH 3240's. I want to know which is better.

the mabuchi are the blades which are the gold standard most modders say are the best. But holes need to be cut in the shell.

the plasma dash will run hot and the modder who used them said they got uncomfortably hot in his blaster and he went back to hyper dash 2.

A better choice in a 130 that has been suggested would be Hyper dash pro dual shaft one shaft will need to be cut off with a dremel or possibly hardened steel clippers.

Personally i find the stock motors fine im not going to go to Lipo and im not going to go above 11v. 8.4v gets me nice ranges 50+ ft accurate and does not hit too hard ...

Also the 180 size can run up to 11v just like stock motors can

the race motors plasma or the hyper are 3v motors you are overvolting in most cases and they are rated to 3-5A draws... plasma being 5A hyper dash being 3A this means your looking for a 1s LiFe cell at 3.3v or you should use a driver that drops voltage and can provide the 3-5A these motors want. I have seen people running them strait off a 4.2v 1s Lipo it is overvolting them a bit but most can stand a little bit over spec.

Edited by Lunas, 14 October 2014 - 06:18 AM.

[CS- Tiff]

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

[darthskids]

'CS- Tiff', on 14 Oct 2014 - 8:09 PM, said:

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

So what made you choose the power dashes? What other motors were in the running? How do the power dashes compare to the other motors?

[Lunas]

'CS- Tiff', on 14 Oct 2014 - 8:09 PM, said:

I need to understand something. When you wire motors up, lets say I put 6v into my blaster, will each motor get 3v or 6v? Also, i've decided to go with the tamiya power dashes.

They get 6v you wire them in parallel if you wired them in series one would spin faster than the other as the first one would get 6v then the second would get 3-5.5v depending how much the first dropped the voltage.

also sprint dash or ultra dash would be better... Power dash are more skewed toward having torque.

With the flywheels as light as they are we don't need all that much torque. Torque does matter it helps with spin up time but there is a plateau what gets our darts out the gun is the speed of the rotation of the flywheels. So a high rpm and about any of these race motors will blow away most other options. To provide 3v at 2-5A you need some sort of dc/dc step down regulator like this one then you would run on 3-4 IMR or an 11.1v lipo

Edited by Lunas, 14 October 2014 - 08:30 PM.