18 replies to this topic

[The Snake]

Hello nerfers. I just bought a 3/4 inch ball valve to use on my hopper. The only problem with this is the torque. It takes a lot to open and close these things. So I was wondering, what do you do to lower the torque on these things?
By the way mods, feel free to move this if it isn't in the right place.

[Ezio Nerf]

I had the same problem. I took it apart and greased it and it still doesn't work. We probably got a lemon. Take it back and get a new one. The ones with red handles for for me.

[DartSlinger]

'Ezio Nerf', on 27 Feb 2013 - 01:06 AM, said:

I had the same problem. I took it apart and greased it and it still doesn't work. We probably got a lemon. Take it back and get a new one. The ones with red handles for for me.

Actually, you probably did not get a lemon. All ball valves are pretty stiff unless you buy a "low-torque" ball valve.

'The Snake', on 27 Feb 2013 - 12:52 AM, said:

So I was wondering, what do you do to lower the torque on these things?

You can cut an angled opening in the end of a piece of PVC and screw it onto one end of the handle. This will make it easier to open.

[Zorns Lemma]

[The Snake]

Ok. Thanks guys. I Tried this, it works really good. Again thanks.

[quertyman]

The ball valves at (my) Home Depot are amazing. They are 1/2, full flow, cost like 2.40$, and are easy to open. This is just a heads up to look around at your local Home Depots (if you have them) and try to find these.

Edited by quertyman, 26 February 2013 - 10:46 PM.

[Siriuslyharry]

I've noticed that a lot of the torque in 1/2" ball valves (or any others) is from friction. Naturally, the larger the valve, the more surface area the ball has and the more friction that is created when turning it. I was able to make my valve pretty easy to turn just by using it frequently and lubricating the ball infrequently.

[Samurai kidd]

You actually want to INCREASE the torque. Torque doesn't exist in a stationary system; it's caused by an outside force applying pressure to a point other than an object's center of mass or pivotal point. There are ball valves available with a lower torque requirement. If you can't find them, grab some lube and use mechanical advantage, as Zorn suggested.

[Zorns Lemma]

'Samurai_kidd', on 28 Feb 2013 - 04:02 AM, said:

You actually want to INCREASE the torque. Torque doesn't exist in a stationary system; it's caused by an outside force applying pressure to a point other than an object's center of mass or pivotal point. There are ball valves available with a lower torque requirement. If you can't find them, grab some lube and use mechanical advantage, as Zorn suggested.

Implicit in his description of the problem is that the ball valve requires too much torque to operate, and that he wanted to make that number lower. This was because with the given lever arm of the ball valve the translated force required is high. What we did was not increase the torque, but rather increased the lever arm so that a smaller force can supply the same torque.

So you're trying to be pedantic but are instead just wrong, making you a "That Kid" and therefore worse than pond scum.

Edited by Zorn's Lemma, 27 February 2013 - 11:43 PM.

[Langley]

'Zorn's Lemma', on 28 Feb 2013 - 04:43 AM, said:

So you're trying to be pedantic but are instead just wrong, making you a "That Kid" and therefore worse than pond scum.

OH SNAP

On topic, I've had luck with these: http://www.lowes.com...line&facetInfo=

It's heavy and expensive but the ones that were at my Lowes snapped smoothly back and forth between open and closed. They seem to require substantially less torque to operate.

[shandsgator8]

I would drill out the ball value slightly. I did that with my 1/2" valve (used a 5/8" drill bit) and it significantly reduced the torque needed to turn the handle.

[Draconis]

'Siriuslyharry', on 27 Feb 2013 - 6:58 PM, said:

I've noticed that a lot of the torque in 1/2" ball valves (or any others) is from friction. Naturally, the larger the valve, the more surface area the ball has and the more friction that is created when turning it.

Technically, ALL of the resistance felt is from friction.

[Hammy]

Wow all that extra weight and faffin around
If I were you, I would give one of these a go

[bhajj94]

'shandsgator8', on 01 Mar 2013 - 03:12 AM, said:

I would drill out the ball value slightly. I did that with my 1/2" valve (used a 5/8" drill bit) and it significantly reduced the torque needed to turn the handle.

I can second that this works really well.

[DartSlinger]

'bhajj94', on 02 Mar 2013 - 12:54 AM, said:

'shandsgator8', on 01 Mar 2013 - 03:12 AM, said:

I would drill out the ball value slightly. I did that with my 1/2" valve (used a 5/8" drill bit) and it significantly reduced the torque needed to turn the handle.

I can second that this works really well.

Are both of your ball valves still airtight?

Edited by DartSlinger, 01 March 2013 - 08:38 PM.

[andtheherois]

A 9/16 bit works well to drill out the hole. However I don't doubt that 5/8 would work just as well, seeing as it's just a hair bigger.

[bhajj94]

'DartSlinger', on 02 Mar 2013 - 01:37 AM, said:

Are both of your ball valves still airtight?

I'm pretty sure that shandsgator's are, and all of the one's that I have done are airtight (I have done 3).

[Daniel Beaver]

'The Snake', on 27 Feb 2013 - 12:52 AM, said:

So I was wondering, what do you do to lower the torque on these things?

http://www.amazon.co...d_sim_sbs_hpc_3

[shandsgator8]

'DartSlinger', on 02 Mar 2013 - 01:37 AM, said:

Are both of your ball valves still airtight?

Yup!