125 replies to this topic

[0reo]

Huh. I just had one of these motors die on me too. I haven't pulled it yet to investigate. Mine saw daily use on 4xAAs (5-6v); exclusively short spin-ups of the flywheels; no extended run-time at all beyond launching a handful of darts rapid fire.

Pulling the motors apart to check out the brushes is relatively easy to do and it should be possible to swap on a new end-cap with new brushes from any similar motor. Keep in mind that these motors are dirt cheap so if you like them its probably easier to just replace them.

The Atomic Mods motors are in a whole different class in terms of the quality of construction & the brushes, as well as output. For those of you willing to spend they are the final word.

[Duke Wintermaul]

Link to atomic mods. Not sure if this is the motor oreo is talking about, but damn i guess this is the tops.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 27 April 2013 - 11:08 AM.

[azrael]

Tamya Plasma dash motors. SG nerf uses them to compare stock motors. I did a thread on them. Just search "Nerf gun motors, problems and solutions"
They are very good, I use them I'n my barricades. I run 9v on them and they work fine and have been for over 2 months now.

Lol, you're not providing them with the current they want. I guarantee you that if you run them with the proper battery, it will have very different performance. I have used them, they are RIDICULOUSLY fast.

Trustfires and NiMhs do NOT provide enough current for any of these motors. Even the RM2s.
The RM2s should probably only be run on a 1s system.

But torukmakto did some FPS tests, these don't seem to be any better than stock anyway. Duke_W has seen the same reports I have.


If you do use Plasma Dashes with the right batteries, you will need a better switching system. I haven't gotten to using a relay system yet. Will soon, after some robotics projects are done.

[0reo]

Trustfires and NiMhs do NOT provide enough current for any of these motors. Even the RM2s.
The RM2s should probably only be run on a 1s system.

But torukmakto did some FPS tests, these don't seem to be any better than stock anyway. Duke_W has seen the same reports I have.


If you do use Plasma Dashes with the right batteries, you will need a better switching system. I haven't gotten to using a relay system yet. Will soon, after some robotics projects are done.

1. The RM2 motor specs for 6v so you're giving patently false info about that.
2. I did measure fps using a ballistics chronograph and they definitely are stronger then the stock motors, volt for volt. Compare apples to apples.

[azrael]

1. The RM2 motor specs for 6v so you're giving patently false info about that.
2. I did measure fps using a ballistics chronograph and they definitely are stronger then the stock motors, volt for volt. Compare apples to apples.

Lying about what? I've seen the table for 1-9 volts, and even at 3-4V, stall current already exceeds the current supply limitations of a Trustfire/NiMh. You can definitely run them higher, but apparently the brushes are complete shit, so I don't think it's smart to run them that much higher.

What numbers? I've never seen any real numbers from you.
torukmakto gave me numbers.
At the same voltages, it was maybe a 2-5 fps increase from stock. I trust him a lot more than you, he's a reputable nerfer on HvZ forums.

[blacklion]

Hey guys I just found the specifications graph for the RM2 motors. See below... Note that the figures are for 3 volts.



Also, I have a question. What's more important RPMs or Torque??? I just found this other motor and would like your opinion.



Note that the voltage range is 1.6-16 V, and even though max RPMs seem to be ~6,000 the torque rating is very high. Would this be a suitable replacement if using 3 or 4 TrustFires?

Edited by blacklion, 30 April 2013 - 04:28 AM.

[azrael]

Where did you get this? Looks very different to the numbers listed on Pololu and other sites...

[Cambo11235]

This may be a slight necro, but I just ordered my motors, they dropped in beautifully, and i did not have a thick gauge wire, so I wired the motors in the same configuration as the stock motors with the thin wire form NF lights.

Now, I am using rechargeable 1.2v batteries, and the motors wont rev. When I touch my 9v with adapter to the wiring, it sounds like a jet engine, so i know the motors are fine. Are the 4x 1.2v batteries not enough, should I be using 4x 1.5 duracell or something batteries?

Or, can I run these motors at 9v, without fear of burning out the motors? Or even if I can, should I still just s6v?

[Duke Wintermaul]

Cambo, run them at 9volts.

I run mine at 11.2volts, and so far have had no issues with short term use.

[MAV13]

To answer your question, there's no reason the motors shouldn't run at 4.8~6 volts. It could be that the wiring to your battery tray has failed in some way or your batteries weren't fully charged.

After inserting my barricade motors to my stryfe I've ran them for probably close to 90 minutes total this week with no issues, I get a solid 5+ more feet out of barricade motors than stock. They also have a more growl like sound than the high pitched whine the solarbotics make. To each his own though.

[blacklion]

This may be a slight necro, but I just ordered my motors, they dropped in beautifully, and i did not have a thick gauge wire, so I wired the motors in the same configuration as the stock motors with the thin wire form NF lights.

Now, I am using rechargeable 1.2v batteries, and the motors wont rev. When I touch my 9v with adapter to the wiring, it sounds like a jet engine, so i know the motors are fine. Are the 4x 1.2v batteries not enough, should I be using 4x 1.5 duracell or something batteries?

Or, can I run these motors at 9v, without fear of burning out the motors? Or even if I can, should I still just s6v?

The RM2 motors nominal voltage is 6V. I'm guessing rechargeable 1.2 V batteries get up to ~1.5 V each, so I don't understand why they motors aren't running. 9 V (or even greater voltages) should be fine for short intermittent use. I wouldn't advise using higher voltages for continuous use. A few things to consider,

• Any chance there's a loose wire somewhere?
• Did you remove the engine chokes and the thermistor?
• Are the batteries making proper contact with the terminal plates?
• Do you have a multimeter? Try measuring the voltage that's reaching the motors. Also using the voltimeter you could perform continuity tests to each wire. In my experience, thin stranded wires can break on the inside without the insulation breaking so you wouldn't really know they're not conducting.

It's what I would do... Hope you solve the problem soon!

[DartSlinger]

This may be a slight necro, but I just ordered my motors, they dropped in beautifully, and i did not have a thick gauge wire, so I wired the motors in the same configuration as the stock motors with the thin wire form NF lights.

Now, I am using rechargeable 1.2v batteries, and the motors wont rev. When I touch my 9v with adapter to the wiring, it sounds like a jet engine, so i know the motors are fine. Are the 4x 1.2v batteries not enough, should I be using 4x 1.5 duracell or something batteries?

Or, can I run these motors at 9v, without fear of burning out the motors? Or even if I can, should I still just s6v?

Buy thicker gauge wire. Thin wire tends to have high resistance, which strangles current.

[Azrael0987]

The motors you suggested are out of stock on polulu. I looked on the site and found another set of motors that claim to run at 11.5 thousand rpm. I was wondering if you tested these, and if that insane claim is even somewhat close to being true.

[azrael]

Not that insane, the Tamiyas I use are like 23k+ RPM. Dunno exactly since they're slightly overvolted.

[Azrael0987]

Do NOT buy the 11.5 thousand rpm motors from polulu. They do not work well unless you over volt them like crazy. I just need to find the Solarbotics motors on another website.

[Utility]

I did a pretty thorough search for the Solarobotics motors (Not saying complete, just saying thorough) and anyone who had restock dates listed August First, so I suspect that is what they are promising their suppliers, I've sent Solarobotics and a few of the resellers e-mails in order to ask for something more resolute, I will update this post when I have further information.

[azrael]

Have you guys been reading about the failures? Just wanna make sure you're aware that many people have had brush failures with these motors.

[Duke Wintermaul]

Myself included.

It's rather easy to pop them. I think many people forget these are rated at 4.5V, less than stock motors. At that voltage, the RM2's outperform their predecessors by having tighter wound brushes. Cool, works great.

Overvolting to 14volts (4*fires) and beyond will butter them kernels. Might even salt them too.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 12 March 2015 - 02:48 PM.

[DKE15240]

Just for my own entertainment I've probably spent $200 on trying different motors in the Stryfe. Some were so inadequate they weren't even worth installing for a trial. Some performed well but at four times the price of the Stryfe itself not including the cost of exotic LiPo batteries, relays, rewiring with heavy gage wire, modifying the battery compartment, etc. One unlikely pair of motors gave me 90ft PTG, 100fps+ muzzle velocity, operate wonderfully on both the original wiring and regular old rechargeable AA batteries, and cost a whopping $2.25ea. Given the performance per dollar and minute spent of these motors it's a fools errand to look any further. (Not that I judge anyone for going on fools errands. This entire project was one for me.)

Here's the link:

http://www.pololu.co...log/product/611

For the record I am not affiliated in any way with either the motor manufacturer or the linked vendor.

Install and be merry. Happy Nerfing folks!
-Oreo

EDIT TO ADD: By "original wiring" I was mainly speaking of the wire gage and the switches. I did remove the thermistors or whatever those things are called on the OE motors.

What type of battery/battery pack would be better then AAs and what is the recommended voltage ?

USER WAS WARNED FOR THIS POST

This thread was two years old, please don't dig up old threads. Either PM the user you're asking or start a new thread.

Edited by Langley, 03 September 2015 - 06:37 PM.

[jwasko]

Since this thread has already been revived, I just want to add this (actually useful) information:

These motors contain metal brushes and have been shown to have poor durability even when using four AA batteries (which are around 4.8 to 6 volts total). Using a higher voltage and/or something that provides more current such as a LiPo battery pack will make them burn out even faster.

If you are just getting into modifying flywheel blasters, or if you are stuck using regular alkaline (AA or C) batteries, there's nothing necessarily wrong with using these motors...but there are other motors out there that will give better performance for not that much more money; however, you will need to rewire your blaster with thicker gauge wire and add a LiPo or NiMH R/C battery pack to use them.

Motor example: http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-001/

Mod Guide for a Rapid Red (basically the same as a Stryfe) (unfortunately the motors she used are no longer available; don't buy from that ebay link):
http://nerfhaven.com...showtopic=26150

Mod Guide for a Rapidstrike (this doesn't actually mention a motor swap, but it could easily be done during this modification):
http://torukmakto4.b...ated-guide.html

Edited by jwasko, 02 September 2015 - 07:54 AM.

[Heatblast016]

Thanks - I might use these on my rapidstrike
Edit:I realized I just necroed - how do I delete a post

Edited by Heatblast016, 13 October 2015 - 12:06 AM.

[Nerfguy2002]

Sweet, I just bought these for my elite raven. I know its not a strife, but it should work, right.

[Agles]

i been watching this LordDrackolical on youtube. he says he uses some high torque motor from Tamiya. the motor happens to be the same size as the stock motors so now need to cut the body to make them fit. hes been away for awhile, so im waiting to hear back... 

 

thinkin this was right, i today ordered 4 of these http://www.tamiyausa...ned-motor-15134

sure Drack said they where ok on 3s, meantime site says 3v which is to low >.< 

 

anyhow, id like to add new motors. without halfing to cut the body of my rapidstrike or stryfe. 

[jwasko]

Sometimes I wish this thread would die in a fire.
 

i been watching this LordDrackolical on youtube. he says he uses some high torque motor from Tamiya. the motor happens to be the same size as the stock motors so now need to cut the body to make them fit. hes been away for awhile, so im waiting to hear back... 
 
thinkin this was right, i today ordered 4 of these http://www.tamiyausa...ned-motor-15134
sure Drack said they where ok on 3s, meantime site says 3v which is to low >.< 
 
anyhow, id like to add new motors. without halfing to cut the body of my rapidstrike or stryfe.

Yeah, running those at 3S will make them die in a fire. They do work okay on 1S LiPo though (or any pack running somewhere around 3Volts).

 

If you are looking for the best motor widely available at this point in time, which requires no shell cutting, then order MTB Rhinos. They are available to the USA at http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-001/(and areavailable to other countries from other sites...use google). These do need to be run on a 3S LiPo (or other battery pack near 11-12Volts). They also require a full rewire and switch replacement (you may burn up your stock wires and switches with the current that these suck up)

[shandsgator8]

I'll second what Jwasko said. I'll add that MTB Rhino motors will also work with a lower voltage setup, such as 6 or 7 cell NiMH or 2s LiPo. I also imagine this would increase the motor life, too, although we'll see how that plays out over time with my MTB Rhino-Stryfe-6-cell-NiMH setup.