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The BEST upgrade motor for the Stryfe (after extensive testing) is...


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#101 Felix the cat

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 04:48 PM

While the MTB rhinos do work on a 2s setup I find them rather lackluster at that voltage. They really want that 3s In order to really get good performance, but hey your mileage may vary.
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#102 shandsgator8

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 04:52 PM

While the MTB rhinos do work on a 2s setup I find them rather lackluster at that voltage. They really want that 3s In order to really get good performance, but hey your mileage may vary.

 

Are you able to avoid your darts veering every which way when using a 3s setup? If so, what darts do you use?


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#103 Felix the cat

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 04:56 PM

I brassed my flywheels. Slows the speed just the tiniest bit (no chrono yet), but really helps the fish tailing and the shot spread. And I use nerf brand elites and yellow Amazon fvj that my local dart warz switched to.

Edited by Felix the cat, 06 January 2016 - 04:57 PM.

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#104 shandsgator8

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Posted 06 January 2016 - 04:59 PM

Ahhh, ok.


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#105 nicework88

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 06:03 PM

Hey i was looking at buying these motors. Any opinions? https://www.professo...K30306&CartID=1


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#106 Quack

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Posted 25 January 2016 - 07:59 PM

Hey i was looking at buying these motors. Any opinions? https://www.professo...K30306&CartID=1

I use that site to buy shark nsr 40's. It looks to be the right size and shape. I've actually been wanting someone like coop who get's revenue for their videos to try out these just to see what happens. It would be great to see a graph showing the effect of rpm on fps. It would probably be curved because of dart slippage. I'm wondering if there is a point where more rpm doesn't create a higher fps.


Edited by Quack, 25 January 2016 - 07:59 PM.

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#107 jwasko

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 09:24 AM

 I'm wondering if there is a point where more rpm doesn't create a higher fps.

There is. It's like 30,000RPM. So both of those motors are spinning faster than you need.

 

Now, if we start talking about  multi-stage flywheel systems (aka "afterburners") then that second stage needs to be going more like 50,000RPM to get any benefit from it. The motor you linked might (theoretically) be good for a third stage, but no one has posted about an attempt at a 3-stage flywheel yet. And for that price you might as well just get a brushless motor.

 

 

Hey i was looking at buying these motors. Any opinions? https://www.professo...K30306&CartID=1

 

 

Unless I'm missing something, they don't even list what voltage is required for those motors, and could be any size given the fact that there's no reference in the picture. Assuming you just want to replace stock nerf motors, I would not recommend them. They are going to spin your flywheels so fast that they will burn your darts horribly and still shoot only shoot 120FPS if you're lucky.

 

Buy MTB Rhinos instead. If you are in the US, they are available here: http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-001/. They'll shoot your darts as far and as fast (~120FPS) as possible, and you could buy 3 for the price of that motor and still have some cash left to pay for shipping.


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#108 nicework88

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 12:50 PM

There is. It's like 30,000RPM. So both of those motors are spinning faster than you need.

 

Now, if we start talking about  multi-stage flywheel systems (aka "afterburners") then that second stage needs to be going more like 50,000RPM to get any benefit from it. The motor you linked might (theoretically) be good for a third stage, but no one has posted about an attempt at a 3-stage flywheel yet. And for that price you might as well just get a brushless motor.

 

 

 

 

Unless I'm missing something, they don't even list what voltage is required for those motors, and could be any size given the fact that there's no reference in the picture. Assuming you just want to replace stock nerf motors, I would not recommend them. They are going to spin your flywheels so fast that they will burn your darts horribly and still shoot only shoot 120FPS if you're lucky.

 

Buy MTB Rhinos instead. If you are in the US, they are available here: http://www.containme...op/mtb/mtb-001/. They'll shoot your darts as far and as fast (~120FPS) as possible, and you could buy 3 for the price of that motor and still have some cash left to pay for shipping.

 

Thanks a lot for your help. I was thinking of getting rhinos but wanted something a little more powerful if I could as I'm planning to use the metal flywheel cage from DrSnikkas in my Rapidstrike but I may just stick with rhinos to begin with for simplicity.


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#109 shandsgator8

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 12:58 PM

MTB Rhinos work very well.


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#110 jwasko

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 03:41 PM

 

Thanks a lot for your help. I was thinking of getting rhinos but wanted something a little more powerful if I could as I'm planning to use the metal flywheel cage from DrSnikkas in my Rapidstrike but I may just stick with rhinos to begin with for simplicity.

Will that metal flywheel cage be including metal flywheels? Or plastic ones?

 

I'm not sure how metal flywheels treat Rhinos considering the extra weight. Certainly they will spin fast enough, but the question is how quickly they get up to full speed.

 

Talk here states some dissatisfaction about how long it takes for "Blade 180" motors to reach full speed with metal flywheels, and those half twice the torque that Rhinos have.

 

On the other hand, talk here says that he makes plastic flywheels now and just the cage is metal. At that point, Rhinos should work great.

 

Edit: Just looked at a picture from Bobololo and they look like plastic, so Rhinos should be fine


Edited by jwasko, 26 January 2016 - 04:25 PM.

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#111 ravetrooper

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 12:38 PM

I remember coop's writeup worked well with 4 UltraFire batteries. Will these motors take the same beating, or will the motors burn out like stock ones?

 

Well these motors are rated for up to 9v so they'll definitely handle the increased voltage better then the stock motors. But these motors are designed to draw a lot more current then the stock motors so a better question is whether the batteries can deliver the amperage at the higher voltage. It might be the case that if you want to over-volt these motors properly you'll have to use the flat LiPo batteries.


Do not use more than 2 Ultrafires in these for any extended period of time or they will BURN. You've been warned. Also, NiMH is a good battery chemistry to use. Not as fantasic performance wise as LiPo, but cheaper/easier to find.
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Gut the electronics, drill a hole in the shell, and attach a crank to the gear. Bam, crank-action stampede that doesn't require batteries, or even a trigger.

...(also judging by your past posts, I would consider you pretty dang wise elder like in the modding community :lol: )


#112 Foammunition

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 03:37 PM

Thanks for the tip .I'm new to modifying Nerf Blasters, and electronics, and this is just what I was looking for... something that handles regular batteries better than the stock motors.

Just ordered ten of these for my various flywheel blasters.

Can anyone recommend a standout NiMH rechargeable? I'm currently into Panasonic Eneloops (Pro).


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#113 shandsgator8

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 04:15 PM

Thanks for the tip .I'm new to modifying Nerf Blasters, and electronics, and this is just what I was looking for... something that handles regular batteries better than the stock motors.

Just ordered ten of these for my various flywheel blasters.

Can anyone recommend a standout NiMH rechargeable? I'm currently into Panasonic Eneloops (Pro).

 

I use regular and Pro Eneloops (which are both NiMH chemistries) in my flywheels blasters (Rapidstrike and Stryfe). I prefer the regular (white) ones because they can handle higher amp draws better, i.e. lower voltage sag. I reached this conclusion looking as discharge graphs of the regular Eneloops and the first generation Eneloop Pros (these had the "X"s on the black label. However, the newer Pros could have better discharge curves than regular Eneloops, but that's just speculation.

 

I know there are AA NiMHs out there that can handle high amps draws even better than the Eneloops, but the only one I'm aware of has been offered by cheapbatterypacks.com and they were out of stock or discontinued last time I checked. Short of these very specialized AA NiMH cells offered by cheapbatterypacks.com or another distributor, you can't beat Eneloops, Pro or regular.


Edited by shandsgator8, 26 April 2016 - 04:20 PM.

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#114 Foammunition

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 04:40 PM

 

I use regular and Pro Eneloops (which are both NiMH chemistries) in my flywheels blasters (Rapidstrike and Stryfe). I prefer the regular (white) ones because they can handle higher amp draws better, i.e. lower voltage sag. I reached this conclusion looking as discharge graphs of the regular Eneloops and the first generation Eneloop Pros (these had the "X"s on the black label. However, the newer Pros could have better discharge curves than regular Eneloops, but that's just speculation.

Wow that's not what I expected, at least between the regular/pro Eneloops, figured it'd be the other way around. Guess I'll have to get the standard ones out and give it a go. Double bonus as they supposedly have more recharge cycles than the pros as well.

Would you consider it necessary to upgrade anything else running these 130's with NiMH batteries? Wiring? Switches? I know thermistors/locks/etc need to go... I was wondering if, while I have them gutted, for the sake of minimizing resistance/maximizing rev speed/time, if I should open up the circuits a bit more?

Thanks!


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#115 DjOnslaught

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 04:46 PM

Wow that's not what I expected, at least between the regular/pro Eneloops, figured it'd be the other way around. Guess I'll have to get the standard ones out and give it a go. Double bonus as they supposedly have more recharge cycles than the pros as well.

Would you consider it necessary to upgrade anything else running these 130's with NiMH batteries? Wiring? Switches? I know thermistors/locks/etc need to go... I was wondering if, while I have them gutted, for the sake of minimizing resistance/maximizing rev speed/time, if I should open up the circuits a bit more?

Thanks!


When using the voltage and amp output from the batteries always upgrade the wiring to a minimum of 20ga (stock blasters use 22ga) though 16-18 gauge is optimal. Switch upgrades depend on the upgrade, if the amperage is the same you can keep the stock switches if your upping that at all then a switch upgrade is called for, always remember to have you batteries output higher then the circuit wants.
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#116 Foammunition

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:12 PM

When using the voltage and amp output from the batteries always upgrade the wiring to a minimum of 20ga (stock blasters use 22ga) though 16-18 gauge is optimal. Switch upgrades depend on the upgrade, if the amperage is the same you can keep the stock switches if your upping that at all then a switch upgrade is called for, always remember to have you batteries output higher then the circuit wants.

Great information, thanks for filling me in. More amps = bigger wires/switches, got it. Most of the mods I see are using 16 ga wiring, so I'll probably just pick up a small spool of that to work with.

Not to continue to hijack the thread but, anyone want to recommend a good soldering rig?


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#117 shandsgator8

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 01:01 PM

Wow that's not what I expected, at least between the regular/pro Eneloops, figured it'd be the other way around. Guess I'll have to get the standard ones out and give it a go. Double bonus as they supposedly have more recharge cycles than the pros as well.

Would you consider it necessary to upgrade anything else running these 130's with NiMH batteries? Wiring? Switches? I know thermistors/locks/etc need to go... I was wondering if, while I have them gutted, for the sake of minimizing resistance/maximizing rev speed/time, if I should open up the circuits a bit more?

Thanks!

 

It could be with the newest Eneloop Pros (the ones that have the word "Pro" on the black label), but I doubt it. I wouldn't call it a rule per se, but all else being equal (cell quality, cell manufacturer, cell chemistry, generation of production, etc.), the higher capacity cell will often have slightly higher resistance compared to the lower capacity cell. This may not always be true, so utilizing a battery analyzer that can graph discharge curves is the only way to know for sure.


Edited by shandsgator8, 27 April 2016 - 01:02 PM.

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#118 shandsgator8

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 01:04 PM

Great information, thanks for filling me in. More amps = bigger wires/switches, got it. Most of the mods I see are using 16 ga wiring, so I'll probably just pick up a small spool of that to work with.

Not to continue to hijack the thread but, anyone want to recommend a good soldering rig?

 

Check this thread out:

 

http://nerfhaven.com...kko#entry350168


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#119 Foammunition

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 11:18 PM

 

Check this thread out:

 

http://nerfhaven.com...kko#entry350168

Thanks!


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#120 Foammunition

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 10:32 AM

"always remember to have you batteries output higher then the circuit want"

A little confused on this, are you basically saying make sure that the circuit isn't going to try to draw more than the batteries are capable of out-putting?

Also, as far as the circuit is concerned, it's probably best to minimize resistance by going larger on the circuits (wire gauge, switches) than what the motors can draw/batteries can output, right? Meaning, even if 18 ga wire will work, 16 ga wire/higher amp rating components will provide a better flow... correct?


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#121 DjOnslaught

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 11:12 AM

A little confused on this, are you basically saying make sure that the circuit isn't going to try to draw more than the batteries are capable of out-putting?

Also, as far as the circuit is concerned, it's probably best to minimize resistance by going larger on the circuits (wire gauge, switches) than what the motors can draw/batteries can output, right? Meaning, even if 18 ga wire will work, 16 ga wire/higher amp rating components will provide a better flow... correct?


That's exactly what I'm saying if your batteries put more out then you need your better off and everything lasts longer.

Not nessacarily on the wire and resistance. Don't over complicate your circuit to increase the resistance.
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#122 shandsgator8

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Posted 28 April 2016 - 06:19 PM

A little confused on this, are you basically saying make sure that the circuit isn't going to try to draw more than the batteries are capable of out-putting?

Also, as far as the circuit is concerned, it's probably best to minimize resistance by going larger on the circuits (wire gauge, switches) than what the motors can draw/batteries can output, right? Meaning, even if 18 ga wire will work, 16 ga wire/higher amp rating components will provide a better flow... correct?

 

All else being equal, then yes, you are correct.


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#123 Foammunition

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 07:39 PM

That's exactly what I'm saying if your batteries put more out then you need your better off and everything lasts longer.

Not nessacarily on the wire and resistance. Don't over complicate your circuit to increase the resistance.

 

 

 

All else being equal, then yes, you are correct.


Awesome... thanks for the input guys. Hoping to tear into my recent thrift finds in the next few weeks... I keep bees for a living so right now is my busy busy time... sorry for the delayed response.

I think my first will be my $2 Rapid Red I found at the local thrift store... Aka the Two Dolla Ro-Ho.

Any tips on an efficient motor upgrade for the $8 Stampede?


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#124 jwasko

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Posted 13 May 2016 - 10:36 PM

Any tips on an efficient motor upgrade for the $8 Stampede?

It doesn't really need one. The stock motor can handle way more than the gears the motor drives can.


Edited by jwasko, 13 May 2016 - 10:37 PM.

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#125 CCBall

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Posted 14 May 2016 - 07:11 PM

I use that site to buy shark nsr 40's. It looks to be the right size and shape. I've actually been wanting someone like coop who get's revenue for their videos to try out these just to see what happens. It would be great to see a graph showing the effect of rpm on fps. It would probably be curved because of dart slippage. I'm wondering if there is a point where more rpm doesn't create a higher fps.

Nevermind.


Edited by CCBall, 14 May 2016 - 07:11 PM.

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