125 replies to this topic

[Atlantis Risen]

Same motor.

As for the plastidip, I'm still not a fan. I think the flywheels need to be balanced as it is and the plastidip will only make it worse. I'd consider plastidipping the darts but I think I need to look at doing something completely different with the darts anyway.

Could the flywheels simply be lightly sanded?

[DartSlinger]

Could the flywheels simply be lightly sanded?

The flywheels would probably still be unevenly weighted.

[HOTH]

Could the flywheels simply be lightly sanded?

Seems risky to me. You really don't want to leave much to human inaccuracy when dealing with the flywheels. It is important that they are balanced.

I am posting a writeup later tonight probably which has an interesting take on the slick flywheels.

[Draconis]

Just modded my Rayven with a pair of these motors and definitely see an increase here too. I neglected to get before ranges, but the modded range varies from 40-55 feet. I removed the locks and thermistors, replaced the wiring with larger gauge, but kept the diode and capacitor. Interestingly, my GITD domed silicone and MHA pink foam darts are by far the most consistant as well as longer range than the new, stock, GITD streamlines.

I can't wait to get some Li-Ion batteries.

[CRCL]

Seems risky to me. You really don't want to leave much to human inaccuracy when dealing with the flywheels. It is important that they are balanced.

I've been considering using bike tyre interlude slipped over the flywheels and cut to size; I'm just waiting for my stryfe to arrive.

[Bobololo]

Regarding the RC Heli motors
I highly suggest you Plasti-Dip the flywheels. Otherwise, this may happen


That blue stuff is some of the foam burning off onto the flywheels. There was also some blue powder around the area.
For those who are worried about off balancing the flywheels with the Plasti-Dip, my stryfe's flywheels become *more* stable with the plasti-dip on them. Both were humming in key together.

[HOTH]

I can't wait to get some Li-Ion batteries.

What product are you planning on purchasing? Ultra fires?

[azrael]

Bobololo, it still happens with plastidip, but I would say to a lesser degree.

[0reo]

Regarding the RC Heli motors
I highly suggest you Plasti-Dip the flywheels. Otherwise, this may happen


That blue stuff is some of the foam burning off onto the flywheels. There was also some blue powder around the area.
For those who are worried about off balancing the flywheels with the Plasti-Dip, my stryfe's flywheels become *more* stable with the plasti-dip on them. Both were humming in key together.

IF your flywheels were more balanced after plastidipping it was just dumb luck. Also, humming "in key together" just means that your motors are spinning atthe same speed or nearly. Most equivalent motors will have some variation unit to unit.

Having said that, I do concede that there may be some benefit to plastidipping. I also believe there is still a benefit to balancing the flywheels and especially so if the flywheels are modified in any way- plastidipping, innertubes, rubber bands, or anything else.

[azrael]

Plastidip eventually wears off, though, and the dart buildup does still occur so any balancing is probably going to be temporary in a Stryfe or any flywheel blaster, really.

[Joe Espinoza]

I know you can use these with standard AA. (Mine just came in) But how does it hold up against 14500 lithium-Ion batteries? Can somebody fry their motors first before I try it? (:

Edited by Joe Espinoza, 03 March 2013 - 03:19 PM.

[Draconis]

What product are you planning on purchasing? Ultra fires?

Or Trustfires, I don't know yet. I should probably get on that soon. I like the idea of simply dropping four (or three if applicable) charged cells in to the stock holders.

[Coop]

I know you can use these with standard AA. (Mine just came in) But how does it hold up against 14500 lithium-Ion batteries? Can somebody fry their motors first before I try it? (:

I use two UltraFires with two dud batteries with my motors and haven't had any problems yet. Using three UltraFires will lead to a burning smell within 5 seconds and four will lead to that smell almost instantly. I have not run the motors for longer than 15 seconds with three or four UltraFires out of fear of destroying them so I can't confirm how long it takes to fry them.

Although the motors spin faster and give better range for the first shot on 3 or 4 UltraFires, the motor RPM drops to about the same level as the drop on 6-8 volts. This leads to a longer waiting time to reach max RPM relative to 6 or 8 volts.

[Joe Espinoza]

I use two UltraFires with two dud batteries with my motors and haven't had any problems yet. Using three UltraFires will lead to a burning smell within 5 seconds and four will lead to that smell almost instantly. I have not run the motors for longer than 15 seconds with three or four UltraFires out of fear of destroying them so I can't confirm how long it takes to fry them.

Although the motors spin faster and give better range for the first shot on 3 or 4 UltraFires, the motor RPM drops to about the same level as the drop on 6-8 volts. This leads to a longer waiting time to reach max RPM relative to 6 or 8 volts.

Thanks a lot really helped. I may just keep four standard alkaline a then.

[HOTH]

I have not run the motors for longer than 15 seconds with three or four UltraFires out of fear of destroying them so I can't confirm how long it takes to fry them.
.

I have about 12 of these motors, and I am willing to test the time it takes for them to burn out while receiving current at 12 and 16 volts. I will post a video on this thread with that test later
tonight, assuming my ulrafires arrive today.

[Guitarzan]

Just modded my Rayven with a pair of these motors and definitely see an increase here too. I neglected to get before ranges, but the modded range varies from 40-55 feet. I removed the locks and thermistors, replaced the wiring with larger gauge, but kept the diode and capacitor. Interestingly, my GITD domed silicone and MHA pink foam darts are by far the most consistant as well as longer range than the new, stock, GITD streamlines.

I can't wait to get some Li-Ion batteries.

Question related to the use of stock darts with flywheel blasters: Your silicone domes work without chewing up the dart or the flywheels? Do you think slugs or glue domes would work too?

[zx532]

Not having done any testing, but slugs probably wouldn't work since the flywheel needs to compress the dart slightly. The metal washers in slugs would prevent that from happening.

[HOTH]

Not having done any testing, but slugs probably wouldn't work since the flywheel needs to compress the dart slightly. The metal washers in slugs would prevent that from happening.

This.

I honestly don't see anything wrong with using stock elites with these flywheel blasters. If they are too light, hot glue a weight down in the head.

Edited by HOTH, 06 March 2013 - 11:55 AM.

[Draconis]

Question related to the use of stock darts with flywheel blasters: Your silicone domes work without chewing up the dart or the flywheels? Do you think slugs or glue domes would work too?

AMIORS, for sure. I'll check the other types and get back to you guys.

[MAV13]

This is probably nigh on a necro but after having these motors die on me twice I had to ask. Has anyone else had a pair of these die after maybe 1-2 hours of total use? Both times I reopened my shell and tried spinning the flywheels just to see a huge amount of brush sparking through the endcap of the motors and maybe 50 RPM on the flywheels. I removed everything from the circuit but the rev switch and kept the stock 22 gauge wire. I ran them off of a 7.2V ni-cd pack most of the time and tested a 9.6V pack for a couple of minutes as well. I know nothing was burned out because I have since dropped stock motors again on the same wiring. After having the same thing happen twice I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just incredibly unlucky or if I've done something wrong both times.

[hoongfu]

The motors have "died" on me for several minutes on me after less than a minute of revving with three ultrafires and normal batteries, even with two dead batteries instead of the normal batteries it dies pretty fast. I have gone the route of one ultrafire and it works fine and I've kept it revving for a little under 5 minutes with no issues. How much use have your motors seen? Mine haven't seen that much.

Edited by hoongfu, 26 April 2013 - 03:39 PM.

[Super0dp]

This is probably nigh on a necro but after having these motors die on me twice I had to ask. Has anyone else had a pair of these die after maybe 1-2 hours of total use? Both times I reopened my shell and tried spinning the flywheels just to see a huge amount of brush sparking through the endcap of the motors and maybe 50 RPM on the flywheels. I removed everything from the circuit but the rev switch and kept the stock 22 gauge wire. I ran them off of a 7.2V ni-cd pack most of the time and tested a 9.6V pack for a couple of minutes as well. I know nothing was burned out because I have since dropped stock motors again on the same wiring. After having the same thing happen twice I'm beginning to wonder if I'm just incredibly unlucky or if I've done something wrong both times.

The motors have "died" on me for several minutes on me after less than a minute of revving with three ultrafires and normal batteries, even with two dead batteries instead of the normal batteries it dies pretty fast. I have gone the route of one ultrafire and it works fine and I've kept it revving for a little under 5 minutes with no issues. How much use have your motors seen? Mine haven't seen that much.

This is most likely because the motors are brushed. We are putting these motors in situations never intended and they are burning out. If you can open the motor or find replacement brushes on the Internet you can fix them. All brushed motors were out at some point, these seam to wear out much faster than others.

Maybe 3 trust fires is too much? Maybe it is intended to run at stock voltage or a little more?

Edited by Super0dp, 26 April 2013 - 04:48 PM.

[Duke Wintermaul]

Maybe 3 trust fires is too much? Maybe it is intended to run at stock voltage or a little more?

The forward voltage rate is 9volts. MAV seems to be running them at recommended voltage, so i'm not sure whats happening for him.

I've burned two of these motors with 4s 14500 cells, but that was a controlled test to see what they could take and to know the warning signs. I normally run them on 3s 14500 cells, and have had no malfunctions. My blasters have not gone through a whole lot of use, so perhaps that's a factor. I'm looking for some higher quality Tamiya's to do some testing, but right now i have nothing definitive to say. If my motor's do shred, i'll be replacing them and running them on 2s 14500 cells to see how that works out.

I'm slowly losing faith in these motors as i continually hear horror stories of blasted and bombarded melted shreds coming from their use.

Mav13, it seems like more expensive higher quality motors are a better option.

Edited by Duke Wintermaul, 26 April 2013 - 05:23 PM.

[Super0dp]

I'm looking for some higher quality Tamiya's to do some testing,

Tamya Plasma dash motors. SG nerf uses them to compare stock motors. I did a thread on them. Just search "Nerf gun motors, problems and solutions"
They are very good, I use them I'n my barricades. I run 9v on them and they work fine and have been for over 2 months now.

[MAV13]

I just took the motors out of my barricade and swapped them. Apparently the yellow endcap SMC motors old barricades come with outperform and outlast the stock motors by an appreciable amount.