(There's a limit to the number of quote blocks I can have in a post???
- I will manually quote, then. AND a limit to emoticons??? 3 is too much? I hope I haven't used up my adjective quota as well...)
Woohoo! I can post!
Ok, because of this long probationary period, I'm going to have to try and answer questions in bulk... so here comes, potentially, a very long post...
@evilbunnyo
"As much as the point of NERF is to stay away from real firearm looking weapons I like this." I don't think my design looks any less toy-ish than some other Nerf guns. I mean, right now the colors are gray... but I can cast the finished product in bright yellow if it makes people more comfortable. I expect to paint the final products, or offer them plain for enthusiasts to paint themselves.
@Crater
"Looks very nice! It appears from the pictures that the CAD work is done or almost done; is that correct?"The core design is almost done. I have enough now that I will probably send out just the shell to get printed so I can hold it in my hand and make sure it is a good size and comfortable to hold.
But there's still the matter of designing the internal cavity of the gun to hold all the guts, gotta figure out where to put screws, and then the exterior surface needs a beauty sculpt in Zbrush.
@Kanashimi
"One piece of advice I'd give is to make the slide a bit bigger. As it is, it looks way too small to comfortably (and quickly) prime."Maybe it's hard to see-- but to offset the smaller slide, I put these flanges on either side meant to give you a solid finger-hold of the minimalist slide. It's small partly due to aesthetics, but mostly due to function. The piston chamber already made the weapon larger than I intended. I think there is enough room there, though, to extend it another half an inch or so... but, as I mentioned earlier, I'll be getting the rough shell printed so I can hold it and fidget with it. Then I'll know for sure whether or not the slide needs that extra surface area or what.
@Bchamp22795
"The Big Bad Bow has a nice, large direct plunger tube. It may be too large. If that's the case, then a Nite Finder is still a valid option."Is there a
Compact Bad Bow? Because I'm trying to design a snub revolver. I will address the direct plunger further down...
@XproXglassX
"Instead of the priming slide, because 1 or 2 people were saying it was small, make the priming like a nitefinder/tech target. You already have the straw plunger end sticking out so just extend that and put some kind of loop to pull on."I think what you are referring to as the "straw plunger" is actually the shaft that cranks the cylinder. That orange part sticking out where the slide wraps around it-- basically, when you pull the slide back, it catches on the back flange and pulls the shaft back 5/8" which starts the rotation of the cylinder. Then when the slide returns, it catches the front flange and pushes the shaft back to it's forward position which locks the cylinder into firing position. I accomplished this by angling the shaft 30 degrees off angle so that the forward position aligns the chambers rather than the Maverick's original back position.
@Frant1c
"Last point: if you're making the front compatible with Nerf attachments, why not go for broke and make the back compatible with Nerf stocks?"I actually have a 3D design that has the stock adapter... but it starts to look like a micro version of the Rayven Let me finish this design, and then, once proven, I can move forward with additional revisions... a long barrel version, a tactical version, a "carbine" version. Thanks for that suggestion, though. Just want to let you know it's definitely on my radar.
@CigarBaby
If you're patient, wait until the Elite Strongarm comes out. It will give you a better model to replicate the internals from."I'm not patient enough to sit around and twiddle my thumbs until Nerf releases a better platform... the original point of this, anyway, is to make something more loveable out of the guts of the Maverick. I'll keep pushing forward. I'll be happy to adapt other internals into new designs, or even eventually start designing my own internals in future projects.
@Crater
"I don't recommend the Recon; it has an inverse plunger too, and it's about the same size, so I don't think it would be an improvement. The difficult thing is finding a plunger system that will fit in the same space. Maybe a Retaliator/Rampage plunger would work. It would be quite expensive, though, to have to buy two blasters to make one of these."That's something important to consider-- I want to cannibalize one and only one Maverick to make this work. Think of it mainly as a custom Maverick.
@Crater
"I was actually imagining a homemade direct plunger that people could make and install themselves. A mod to your stock blaster, if you will. You could make it quite a bit easier to install a larger plunger just by widening the inside of the shell in that area enough to accomodate a NF plunger, for example. (I just thought of that because NiteMavs are somewhat popular, but the Maverick shell has to be widened or replaced to accommodate the larger plunger diameter.)"So... the problem with that idea, and possibly using any other direct plunger system, is that the cavity that holds the plunger also has special guides molded into it that the internals usually mount to or ride along. So, to open it up for a larger plunger altogether would require some sort of adapter to accommodate the Maverick plunger.
It would be better to address this in a revision. So, perhaps there could be a version with a cavity specifically designed for... I don't know... some larger plunger. But again, we get back to the notion that people will have to cannibalize more blasters. Maybe this is an idea I'll have to file away for a future project.
@Crater
"Bungees/rubber bands wouldn't be compatible with the turret rotation being linked to the priming slide. The slide needs to be cycled all the way back and forward again before the trigger is pulled (as with the Spectre). Maybe there could be a post on the back of the plunger, separate from the priming grip, that could have external springs attached."Well... a rubber band could be used... you'd just have to figure out how to decouple the slide from the priming mechanism at the back of the action. If the rubber band is attached to a carriage, then the slide would just push the carriage back. It's pretty much the same thing as the inverse plunger in the Maverick as is-- the slide just pushes the shroud back against a latch, then the slide comes forward under another spring's power.
@Crater
"My opinion: if a stock mount was added above the priming grip, it would make priming very difficult; if one was added behind the priming grip, it would likely be very ugly. (I guess the shell could be tapered outward to the stock mount's size, which would be a little nicer-looking but would add length.)"The design I had worked up trying to figure out how to handle stock adapters ended up extending the frame up from the bottom-back of the grip to mate with the underside of the piston chamber. Then that served as reinforcement for the adapter... but it looked more like a bullpup PDW at that point than a revolver.
Edited by Sinaz20, 03 December 2012 - 03:54 PM.