9 replies to this topic

[SlightlySane813]

I figured I'd finally get off my ass and make a write up on my first homemade and first homemade primary.

Note: Read the entire write before attempting.

Tools Needed
Dremel
Drill
#6 screw tap
file

You will need...

for the catch
1 - 1" PVC tee
1 - L bracket
a lot - 1/2" #6 screws
a lot - 1/3" #6 screws
1" CPVC
1.5" PVC
ductape or 1" PVC
2 springs
#6 nuts

for the plunger rod
1/2" PVC
1/2" rod (I used solid core for more strength)
#8 or bigger screws
1/2" PVC tee

for the plunger tube
1.5" PVC
1" PVC coupler
1" to 1/2" reducer

for the stock and handle
1" PVC
2 - 1" elbows


Before you start you want to sand off any writing before cutting the surface.





To start off, you will need to make the catch body out of a 1" PVC tee by cutting it like this.







Then cut the catch cover out of 1.5" PVC cut it as wide as you'd like.
(it determines how much of the catch ring is showing out of the side)



This was the width I used but it may vary due to how well your plunger tube fits.



Find the two center anchor points for the cover and the catch screw guide.



I chose to leave this area open to see the catch ring.



Drill and tap the screw holes and drill a slightly larger hole for the catch screw.



Next cut a 3/8" segment of 1" CPVC and drill and tap a hole for a #6 screw in the center of the ring.
This is the catch ring.



Then screw in a #6 screw the length will vary so adjust to the size that works for you.



Once you have the right length, install it onto the catch cover with a spring pushing down on the ring. Make sure to sand down the extra bit of screw for a clear path.



You want it to stick past the spacers to be able to catch on the catch notch.



Now for the spacers. The spacers are segments of 1"CPVC

and you should mark it like this,





and wrap it in duct tape on the larger section until it fits into the 1" PVC tee. I used duct tape because the purpose for it is to space the PVC evenly so the screws can anchor it.



this will be the finished spacer.



Make sure the spacers hold the catch ring in place LOOSELY!!!!

Then you want to screw them in on both sides.





An easy way to measure the correct screw length is to use the end of the coupler with the spacer.



Now for the hard part.

Mark on the lower part of the tee where the trigger is going to go and cut the slot so that the fit of the L-bracket allows NO wiggle from side to side. It should be as centered as possible.



But it the L-bracket should be able to pivot a reasonable distance.

I would suggest cutting the slot smaller than needed and then filed to fit.





Depending on the L bracket you use you might have to drill another hole.

Then line up the position of the bracket and mark and drill a hole.



Make sure another hole is lined up with the bottom of the catch ring.



Then put this together. Add nuts as needed.





Lastly fit put a screw through the hole inside the hole in the L-bracket that is below the catch and add a nut.



Finished ring catch.



Note:This version I put the trigger on the other side for a different homemade.

Note2:If you built it right, when you run the plunger rod through it, it should lock tight and should only let go when the trigger is pulled. Don't worry if the catch doesn't go all the way up without the plunger rod because the plunger rod is what keeps it centered.

Edited by SlightlySane813, 05 February 2012 - 11:04 AM.

[SlightlySane813]

Next is the plunger rod. This is kind of a one picture deal.

Cut a length of 1/2" PVC based on how long you want it, but cut it a 1/2" too short. Then cut the pipe again where you want the catch notch to be. If you want to use 1/2" CPVC or something of equal size I would suggest reaming out the inside ends of the PVC to allow an easier fit. I found that a 3" segment allows a large enough area to insure 1) that you don't miss and drill in the wrong place 2) that the rod doesn't break at its end. Then drill and tap holes on both ends and add screws. Lastly cut the screw ends flush to the plunger rod.

Make sure to measure the compression of the spring AND the distance to the actual catch ring.



In addition you need to add a plunger head. I used a similar design to this except I put it on a 1/2"PVC end cap.

Once that is done the next thing to be made is the plunger tube.

First cut a segment of 1.5" PVC, I cut mine to 9" because that is what my plunger rod fit best.

Then you need to assemble the front. I made mine with a double coupler so that is what's pictured.

Sandwich and solvent weld these pieces together.
1/2"PVC coupler - 1/2" CPVC coupler - 1/2" to 1" reducer - half of a 1" PVC coupler



Solvent weld it into the plunger tube. Rev1 had used a full 1"coupler which has a lot of deadspace.



Then cut a notch on the other end for the trigger movement and press one end of the 1" tee into the plunger tube.

The next step depends on what style of tee you have, You need to sand the end of the tee so it is a straight as possible.

From this:


To this:


Then add three 1/2" #6 screws to hold it to the catch.

Finally the last step in making all of the major components is the stock. It consists of 2 1" elbows
and 3 pieces of 1" PVC. Cut the stock pieces to whatever size you would like. But the final step is to cut a chunk out of the handle that goes into the coupler to make room for the trigger.

Then assemble the components. Put the plunger rod and head into the plunger tube with silicone lubricant. Then slide on your springs and cap it off with the catch. Add the 1/2" PVC tee to the part of the plunger rod that sticks out of the back of the catch with a screw to hold it on. then add on the stock with the 2 elbows and put a screw through the bottom part of the tee to hold on the handle.

And your done!

Overall the most reliable blaster I have ever used, and my first is still one of my co-primaries.

Mine is currently in Rev 1 stage of transferring it over to a "Par55" style.



Rev 2 of a Par 55 transfer is in the works now.

Ranges with a 75% seal and about 7.5" of a K18 spring with full compression is 110 - 120, this is mostly because of the massive volume of the plunger tube.

Questions?, Comments?, Anything I missed?, Flames?

[hamoidar]

Is it just me, or does this gun bear stiking similarities with the SGN-R3L. Anyways, nice gun, good execution.
EDIT: Why do you say to sand off the letters on the t-connector before cutting?

Edited by hamoidar, 05 February 2012 - 03:16 PM.

[Exo]

'hamoidar', on 05 Feb 2012 - 7:41 PM, said:

Is it just me, or does this gun bear stiking similarities with the SGN-R3L. Anyways, nice gun, good execution.
EDIT: Why do you say to sand off the letters on the t-connector before cutting?

1. That's because it is, it's just Americanized.
2. Because letterless t-joints are so much sexier.

Personally, I like to use a super expensive thing called a shaft collar (SC in the PIC). That takes away the need to drill a hole in the catch ring, let alone make a catch ring. Also, it's metal, so it won't get wierded out over constant use, and lastly, if you do it right, you won't have to cut a slot in the top of the t-joint. Of course, you also don't have to cut the slot if you use a PVC ring, It's all about cleverness.


So it looks like this. Also, you can attatch the trigger to the bolt inside the handle, so that it's not connected to the outside. It will lever itself on the slot of the t-joint. Also, drill some holes BEHIND where the plungerhead rests when primed, that way, air can flow back into the PT, so there's no vacuum when firing.

I also use CPVC, wood, and a dowel screw (which is like a screw, but with threads on both sides, and no head) to make an omnidirectional plinger tube. You could extend the wood all the way through, but if it's just the dowel screw acting as a catch notch, then the catch ring can push down farther, so it catches better.

Personally, I think it could be done a bit cleaner, but if that's your first homemade, then you could have done worse. Nice job, it's good to know that not everyone other than the veterans are total noobs. Yes, this has been writen-up before, but this is a great way to try out your ability to maek write-ups. I was a little confused with the way some of it was laid out, but it was fairly well explained. Good job.

Edited by Exo, 05 February 2012 - 05:22 PM.

[SlightlySane813]

'hamoidar', on 05 Feb 2012 - 7:41 PM, said:

Is it just me, or does this gun bear stiking similarities with the SGN-R3L. Anyways, nice gun, good execution.
EDIT: Why do you say to sand off the letters on the t-connector before cutting?

Exo covered the title.

I sand off the letters so that the PVC can be marked easily and accurately, making the end result more accurate.

Edited by SlightlySane813, 05 February 2012 - 05:16 PM.

[SlightlySane813]

'Exo', on 05 Feb 2012 - 10:04 PM, said:

1. That's because it is, it's just Americanized.
2. Because letterless t-joints are so much sexier.

Personally, I like to use a super expensive thing called a shaft collar. That takes away the need to drill a hole in the catch ring, let alone make a catch ring. Also, it's metal, so it won't get wierded out over constant use, and lastly, if you do it right, you won't have to cut a slot in the top of the t-joint. Of course, you also don't have to cut the slot if you use a PVC ring, It's all about cleverness.


So it looks like this. Also, you can attatch the trigger to the bolt inside the handle, so that it's not connected to the outside. It will lever itself on the slot of the t-joint. Also, drill some holes BEHIND where the plungerhead rests when primed, that way, air can flow back into the PT, so there's no vacuum when firing.

I also use CPVC, wood, and a dowel screw (which is like a screw, but with threads on both sides, and no head) to make an omnidirectional plinger tube. You could extend the wood all the way through, but if it's just the dowel screw acting as a catch notch, then the catch ring can push down farther, so it catches better.

Personally, I think it could be done a bit cleaner, but if that's your first homemade, then you could have done worse. Nice job, it's good to know that not everyone other than the veterans are total noobs. Yes, this has been writen-up before, but this is a great way to try out your ability to maek write-ups. I was a little confused with the way some of it was laid out, but it was fairly well explained. Good job.

I added a hole by the trigger slot in the plunger tube later on, but I really didn't have that much trouble with vacuum loading in the first place.

-When I put the catch through a test, I had the PVC on the plunger rod crack and still the catch didn't give way. So catching better really doesn't make a difference.
-Wear has happened once but the cheap parts allow for easy replacements.
-This wasn't said in the write-up but one of my goals was to make it as cheap as possible hence the use of regular pipe for the catch.
-Also the slot was to help make the design simple and compact.

Over all I just wanted to replicate the SGN-R3L as much as possible.

Thanks for the questions.

EDIT:Sorry for the double post, my post timing was wrong.

Edited by SlightlySane813, 05 February 2012 - 05:49 PM.

[ACE11]

Thanks for this writeup, I've been wanting to bulid one for some time now, this helps alot! Also the writeup was very easy to comprehend, anyways, thanks again for the writeup!

[ChaosPropel]

Were you the guy that asked me for the measurements of mine, many months ago?

Either way, nice job. Good writeup quality too.

[SlightlySane813]

'ACE11', on 06 Feb 2012 - 01:42 AM, said:

Thanks for this writeup, I've been wanting to bulid one for some time now, this helps alot! Also the writeup was very easy to comprehend, anyways, thanks again for the writeup!

I'm glad this helps.

'ChaosPropel', on 06 Feb 2012 - 01:50 AM, said:

Were you the guy that asked me for the measurements of mine, many months ago?

Either way, nice job. Good writeup quality too.

I think it was me because I remember asking about the volume of the 1.25" plunger tube.

[BBBB]

Thanks for "Americanizing" it! Great job, keep it up!